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Forum Members, I was surfing the forum this evening and was thinking about how grateful I am for all of the contributors. There is some much valuable information on the forums that has proven invaluable to me (and I'm sure many others) over the years. I've taken on several projects on both of my cars that I wouldn't have without the support of this place. A special thanks to the gentlemen below. Happy Holidays all. Dave

Oh yes, 100% agree. Sniper has been so helpful to many. If you're reading this Sniper, you the man!

Try not to rust this one out like you did the last one, Brent! ? 48D

Off the top of my head, I'd add Sniper to that list too. There are others as well that have helped me with my problems. Thanks a lot everyone for all your patience and your suggestions and all the links and diagrams and references.

I just got mine freed up last night. I hit it with penetrating oil at least 3 or 4 times over the last week and let them soak. Last night I sprayed them again and used a pair of channel locks to slowly wiggle them back and forth. Both broke free and then I lubed them with white lithium grease. I'll put the cowl back together after I get the weatherstripping back in.

This update was primarily a set of security updates and several new features. The new features will be rolled out in the near future as so as I have have a chance to review the setup documentation. If you see any new weird behavior please report it to info@p15-d24.com

Will do, I’m sure being located on the drivers side, it’s all that drivers sweat this should help protect it

I have a vendor list at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/vendor Most of the regular maintenance parts (tune up, wheel bearings, hoses, etc.) I get at my local auto supply store. Their computer doesn’t go back far enough to find my car but with the parts cross reference I maintain at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric I can generally find a new enough number that they can cross (and then I update my database to include any new changes). If I call them in the morning they will often have the parts in that afternoon for pickup.

Not speed related this one but certainly back in the day. My grandfather with his 1928 Dodge when he bought it in 1934. Picture taken by grandmother on the unsealed road just outside the farm gate. Also have one of her taken by him.

Ok, I'm confused. Logged on today and learned I got my 1 Year In Badge. What is that? Who came up with this nonsense? According to my profile I've been in this group since 2006. Actually I was in the original group since about 2000 before it changed to this format. Plus I noticed I'm a Newbie, really. How did that happen? 10 years ago I wasn't a newbie. I don't see many people left on here from when I started in 2000. I check in from time to time but seldom post anything. So after 20 years in the group I get my 1 year status and I'm a Newbie. What an insult.

You should see my older brother...he'll wander around saying "Magically appear, magically appear".

Will update after I had time to do a full set up.

My wife gave me a badge recently. “Biggest whiner of the year about Old Mopar parts prices.” I was a runner-up also, for “Gets in a rage the quickest, over freight costs to Canada”.

As noted, there are advances in material sciences since the day your engine was built and although you could mix-n-match various brands of pistons it would be foolish to do so as the actual piston weight can and will vary from source to source due to variations in the initial piston blank and subsequent machine operations. Perhaps, if you don't mind some minor imbalance, mixing would work out but, any imbalance in a rotating assembly will add odd stresses to the parts. I am reminded of a customer who had bought a 350 crate engine from his gm dealer; upon disassembly, for the purpose of verifying what he had, the off-balance was measured in ounces...not grams. So, apparently, gm didn't think an out-of-balance condition was an issue. YRMV

I caught myself griping at millennials and their nonsense on the TV the other day...then changed the channel to Bob Ross making happy little clouds and my disposition improved...but only slightly...

One thing to be aware of is that pistons prior to the 1970's were not made with hypereutectic alloys. Hypereutectic alloys have a much greater silicon content that their predecessors. The large amount of silicon content within hypereutectic aluminum alloys causes them not to expand nearly as much as prior alloys as their temperature increases. Also, the excess silicon (there's enough that it can't all stay in solution within the aluminum) congregates on the surfaces of the parts, forming a barrier to the heat, and further inhibiting thermal expansion. As a result, the clearances between the piston and mating parts (cylinder wall, rings and wrist pins) are somewhat different from the original clearances specified in the factory manuals, which were written in the days prior to hypereutectic aluminum materials. Having said all this, I contacted Sealed Power a few years ago, and asked them what alloy they used to make the pistons I purchased, and they replied by saying they are made of a eutectic cast alloy. Note they didn't say "hypereutectic" alloy, but just "eutectic." After a little further digging, I found that Sealed Power uses a proprietary alloy called FM132, which is described as a "eutectic" alloy. Eutectic alloys have less silicon content than hypereutectic alloys, but still a lot more than traditional alloys, and this means they still don't expand nearly as much as the traditional alloys as temperature increases. Apparently, the silicon offers anti-scuffing properties as well, which is a benefit, but the hypereutectic alloys tend to be brittle, while eutectic alloys are not so brittle. Anyway, the main point of all this is that there are differences in pistons, and the cylinders have to be bored accordingly, depending on the piston alloy used. It's also worth mentioning that if you're detailed-oriented/OCD, like me, and you perform checks of the clearances between wrist pins and pistons, and ring side clearances, you'll find that these clearances are larger than specified in the manuals. When I first discovered this, I was concerned that my pistons were mis-manufactured, but after I did some research, I realized what I just outlined above. As best I can tell, they start off with clearances at room temperature that are practically the same as the clearances needed at operating temperature. Another benefit (though minor) is that the eutectic pistons don't have a tendency to make piston slap noises when cold, while the factory pistons sometimes do, since they are smaller in relation to their bores until they warm up. One other thing is that the factory original pistons had slots in one side of the skirt, whereas the Sealed Power pistons do not. I don't recall the purpose of these slots, but I guess Sealed Power (and maybe other aftermarket manufacturers) decided they weren't needed.

Hey all, sorry about the confusion caused by the new badge/rewards system. In the past when IPS rolled out a new features by default they were turned off which gave me time to review the documentation and set up in detail. Apparently not this time. I will be going through the docs to see if I can revert to the previous set up but no promises.

I think the message is not that precise, but that whatever differences may exist are to minute to make any material difference in the usage common to our type of vehicles. As far as bore wear is concerned, IMNSHO the piston used has almost no bearing on bore wear. The rings, oil used and operating conditions are the major contributors. Most of the piston face doesn't even touch the wall, and the thrust faces that do are aluminum on cast iron, not likely to cause wear on the harder of the two.

If you happy with frivolous pages and alerts popping up that is no concern to anything...then by all means let your words speak only for yourself....do not include me into your like thinking.... However, like many here I am thinking things will return to some bit normality but ONLY AFTER the issues are pointed out.

Let’s give the administrator of the site some time to sort things out before everyone starts moaning about something of not great concern. There are many things in life that are much more serious. Time to wear big boy pants. Edit - I’ve been a member since 2006 so also a long time member. I’ve dealt with many things worse than a glitch in a well run forum.

If it was the I DON'T PLAY WELL WITH OTHERS I could accept that badge.....!!!!!!!!! In all seriousness this is totally juvenile, can't think of a better term to describe it... I am almost afraid to go looking at other features.....lol

I just got an alert I got my very POPULAR BADGE.....common this is totally junevile....I am not a facebook member but I would suspect this is the type of garbage that is on that site daily....

I got the same notification yesterday, and like Jack I have been a member since 2001 or before. Mus have been the result of the site revision that just happened. I also got a badge for number of posts or similar, 19000, posts in a year, wow.

I agree, too much fluff....then again, I am not one that deals with change very well as it is....after this posting I got an alert my first post, then it goes to a page of fluff that I care not to see...this is an action that is in my book....a very WEIRD action...

You'll find it after you don't need it anymore. Regardless of the deminimus off set, it would bug me to no end until it was corrected. But that's just me.

Thanks for the details and the link That certainly looks like it would work. My battery cable measures .475" OD. The only issue is whether or not the crimped ring end will pass through the .606 ID. I suppose I could always cut off the ring and crimp a new one on once the spring has been installed. If I understand this correctly only the cable from the battery to the starter switch has the spring, the ground cable does not have a spring. Correct?

I'm stamped a newbie!!!! Will this effect my Social Security status??? 48newbie

I measured .06" wire diameter x 9/16" ID x 17" long on that sleeve...here is an option from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/9665K93/

No confusion. It was just impossible to pass up such an easy chance to be a smartaz$$.

On a side note, I put it in three times. Probably only three ways to put it in and I bolted it together wrong twice. Of. Course, then I looked at the manual.

The multiple repetitive replacements were covered under warranty, except for the wheel sensors, but fluids for flushing and bleeding added up...I think I went through over 10 gallons of power steering fluid and over 5 gallons of brake fluid, and that adds up...all that time spinning my wheels I'll never get back, but now I can get on the pile of work that has been on hold and drive down the road without worrying about ruining any more tires...just this morning, I had to get on them brakes when a suicidal squirrel ran out in front of the truck while trying to zip out of town, and there were no casualties, rodent nor radial ?

Going thru my spare parts stashes. Not seeing one of those spacers. Even braved the attic stash. Nope.

Here are a few clips from a rare 1950 Chrysler pamphlet on Fluid Drive. I tried putting up some complete pages from it, but my scanner kept cutting up the pages into little pics. Don't know why.

I think the government buys good stuff even if it is the commercially available stuff. NOS stuff is very likely American made and very likely good stuff. They buy NOS stuff at clearance prices, regular stuff at regular wholesale prices and they could be foreign made. Piston rings are like the pistons, they are commodities. Which means there are not a lot of variations even between brands or countries manufacturing them. For the street NOS stuff is plenty good enough and I'd look for it. If you want premium stuff and are willing to pay big bucks for it there are any number of custom manufacturers who would love your business. I'd say have a look at the beautiful pistons and rods offered by Tony Smith. At least one of my treasures is going to get a set. Hold on to your wallet cause they are $2,600+ and worth it! Everybody wants a 230 23" engine because of the torque (or a 265 25") but that longer stroke comes at a price. Piston speed goes up with the longer stroke. Tony's rods & pistons are lighter so the driver will want to rev higher which makes the problem even worse. You will note that he has had the piston skirts coated and lengthened the rods to accommodate the piston speed. (longer rods have a smaller angle of pivot at the piston and therefore less piston rock at the top and bottom. Piston speed is the speed of the piston in the middle of the stroke. Lengthen the stroke and the piston speed goes up) More information than the average person can process I am sure. For the street keep it simple, these cars have been around a long long time because as the ads say "Plymouth builds Great Cars". They aren't over-powered but you can put a lot of happy miles on them.

Bernbaum's new website layout blows chunks

mine was converted to 12 v prior to my purchase of the truck, but the previous owner didn't use resistors for the wiper motor, heater motor, or gas gauge (i don't recall if the gauge was even hooked up when i bought the truck, but it is now). i added resistors to all three about 10 years ago; all work correctly still. i did have to take the heater motor apart to solder the windings, as only one or two were still attached. what i used for the heater and wiper motors:

This is the correct spacer item and what to use to space out the fan and pulley.

tinkering a little on Rob recently. Something that I wanted to capture before it disappeared is the factory battery tray and tie down top. I procured a tray (957778) that apparently is the same number as one for a 41-48 Chrysler & Desoto…. Fit perfectly I ended up making the top cause I wanted something a little beefier the truck takes a group 2 battery and I only had a group 1 for the test but, I am happy with the test fit. I will replace the factory cables soon.

I am glad to hear you fixed the issue with proper sized battery cables. As many of us have experienced, there is no need to switch to 12V or install an 8V battery to get the engine to start better.

Mikes Carburetor has kits. They used to have an Alberta branch, but not so sure now. In Washington State. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/bb-k4060.html

That's your carb #

My B3HH has a spring my other trucks didn’t have the springs but most of the cable were changed (undersized) over the years. LOL, seems like it was a practice to replace the cables and battery at the same time

AMS obsolete has it as does Deception Pass Motor Parts. The kit Brent shows on Ebay will most likely be the absolute best price.. Too bad you cannot snag that.

ESPO Spring should have the pins and bushings and likely the shackle pins too. I'd look for a white haired guy at NAPA or a machinist to match up the king pins. They can order by dimension not just application. Good luck!

Then move the indicator over to the piston edge at the center of the pin and rock the piston by pushing down and then up while making note of the measurements. Recall I had these pistons made to stick out of the block to gain a small SCR bump as well as a better quench. Measurements were 0.025" down and 0.0335" up. Add the two numbers and divide by 2 to get the actual deck, which in this case turned out to be 0.02925". The deck measurement for piston #6 was 0.028", so the deck is not perfectly square, but that's a really minor difference and not something I'd want to try to correct for this build. Things are looking good so far! Sorry for the multiple posts, but I'd like to upload the best quality pictures I reasonably can in case anyone's interested.

Thanks guys for the appreciation and confidence !! I have owned or worked on or parted out just about every letter of B-Series dodge truck. That actually has been a goal of mine which has been accomplished over the last 40 years.. I think now I'm starting... maybe just a little bit to forget a few of the differences between all the models--bummer. So back to Pilot House Dodge truck training I go! Bob