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thebeebe5 last won the day on November 12 2018

thebeebe5 had the most liked content!

About thebeebe5

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Interests
    Auto, photography and musical instrument enthusiast
  • My Project Cars
    1937 Plymouth P4 business coupe; Complete and frequently used 1967 Ford F250 Camper Special, Unrestored (and not going to) 1970 VW Beetle family car purchased new in 70. Used frequently in cooler weather.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born in CT, raised in FL and now residing in AZ.
  • Occupation
    Registered Nurse


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  1. That would be awesome, Rich! I’d pull my floor out to replace the one i lost when the bell-housing was vatted years ago. Been going without ever since. I hope I took measurements back then. Would make it easy.
  2. I pulled the head because I incorrectly assumed the other shop would braze it again. Turns out Brian has the Lock n Stitch at the shop and we could’ve done it ourselves, but neither of us thought of it… ah well...
  3. Soon after completing the rebuild of my ‘37’s 201 (Time for an Overhaul thread) I noticed some rust forming on the top of the head between No.s 4&5 cylinders. It turned out to be about a 1.5” crack. Annoying.... Now, I don’t know if it came about after the rebuild, or if (while magnafluxing the head during the rebuild) I’d simply missed it. Could certainly have been the latter. Anyway, being a non pressure cooling system it wasn’t much more than an eyesore. Last weekend I finally pulled the head to have it repaired and here is how it turned out. I assumed the shop would braze the crack as they had the large crack under the water neck, but this time they used the Lock n Stitch product to produce a repair that was effective (pressure tested!) as well as nearly invisible! I’ll be looking forward to reinstalling the head some time today, Friday or Saturday, depending on time availability.
  4. @TodFitch That’s just what I did. Kind of... Turned a pin out of tool steel with a shoulder on one side and I wired the other. Don’t think it will be a future problem. It's working fine now. I’ll worry about a diaphragm on another occasion.
  5. The ‘37 quit yesterday on a drive home from the USPS to check the mail. As it acted like it ran out of gas I had my son bring me a couple of gallons. Gauge read 1/4+, but stranger things have happened. No result with extra fuel and i had no tools with me, so i had it towed to the shop. Checking things this am and the fuel is present but the pump certainly isn’t moving it. So, off comes the pump, and as it comes free of the block parts start hitting the floor. 🤦🏻‍♂️ Apparently the pin holding the levers inside had fallen out along the way. I was sure i would have to drop the pan to find the larger lever, but as luck would have it the gasket is narrow enough that the lever was hanging by one of the assembly rivets. It’s not a winning lottery ticket, but it’s close. I’ll make a new pin and reassemble it this morning. Does anyone know which years of these pumps share the same diaphragm? I could replace this one today if I can pick one up locally, but I’m not sure about compatibility through the years.
  6. Thanks fellows. People that love the hobby share knowledge that furthers the hobby. I’m always happy to answer questions. My pal Brian (that owns the machine shop I spend my weekends in) selflessly offers advice and technical knowledge. I’ve built an MG Midget 1500, an FE big block Ford and the Plymouth flat 6 chronicled here and disassembled more engines than I can remember all while learning. From reading bearing wear to assessing parts for reuse to tuning the single Carter found on my Plymouth to tuning a phalanx of Weber 48IDAs found on a Ford GT40 Mirage.... All this from an enthusiast that loves to share knowledge. I’ll keep passing it on. I’m currently inflicting knowledge on my 19 year old son. My Pop started me much earlier, but I’m thrilled my boy found a classic that turned him on and thrilled he wants to learn.
  7. Reused the original metal frame for this one. You could TIG weld on new tabs if yours are broken off.
  8. Thanks everyone, and thanks for the kind words, Andy. Forgive the tardy response. I’ve become very busy at my regular job and even more involved at the shop and I forget to check in.... 😕 Not sure how many miles I have on the motor now, but I can look. It’s running like a top. Retaining the old lifters created a bit more work in repeated valve lashings until I got it where I wanted it. The turbo is still sitting on the bench where I left it.... 🙄.... Brian keeps bugging me about “let’s force induct a ‘37 coupe today” when I arrive on Saturdays, but there’s a little work I need to complete first. The cylinder head either developed a small crack or I missed it when we magged it away back when.... over the piston between #4 and #5. It’s a small one.... maybe 0.5-0.75” long. With the non pressure system it really doesn’t leak anything, but it made an ugly rust stain right there for everyone to see. I want to pull it, braze it up and reinstall before I try forcing extra air down the car’s throat. Oil pressure cold is still 60 psi, decreases to 50 at hot cruise, 12-15 psi at idle (factory gauge, so kind of guessing on the low end. Max matched the gauge we used when we drill-spun to oil prime prior to install. Water temp goes to 180° and stays there even in 115° weather. Trans howls a bit. I’ve been collecting NOS parts to do it again and have everything except a cluster and 1/R. I hesitated on a cluster 1st/Reverse set early in the year and missed out. The available NOS ones on ebay are ridiculously priced. It can howl all it wants, but I’ll not shell out $400 for a cluster gear. Still looks good, still gets complements at cruises. Old timers love that I pull in (after a long day at the shop) in a 6v coupe with its original flatty. One guy walked by and asked if I’d mind starting it for him so he could listen. I said “bend your ear over here, Mister... it’s running now” That night I smiled all the way home.
  9. Love the car. Love the color!!
  10. All i know is my ‘37 is so wedge shaped that even the 6” straight armed mirrors only show me the side of the car unless I turn them out a ways. They’re useless for backing into the garage as I can’t see anything straight behind me. How wedge shaped is a 51? I’m guessing they’re wider up front than the typical 30s coupe. Might be fine with curved arm, but for me I’d still go straight arm.
  11. No. Main bearing journals are completely different size. OP: Why not just pull the 201 and get it repaired and then put it back in? Seems like a lot of trouble to go though for a couple months of waiting...
  12. All I have is a seal along the bottom of the door panel held in place by... the door panel.
  13. I’ll look in the am. I just recall a windlace on mine....
  14. Welcome. Saw that car on CL. Personally I like the 6v. Works just fine.
  15. Depending on the condition of the motor... as mentioned, plugged/rotted water tube? I’ll say from experience upon tearing down my ‘37 I found an almost non existent water tube, and enough crud built up in the water jacket at the floor and around cylinders No. 5-6 that there couldn’t have been much circulation back there. Engine ran hot even in cool weather.
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