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thebeebe5 last won the day on November 12 2018

thebeebe5 had the most liked content!

About thebeebe5

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Interests
    Auto, photography and musical instrument enthusiast
  • My Project Cars
    1937 Plymouth P4 business coupe; Complete and frequently used 1967 Ford F250 Camper Special, Unrestored (and not going to) 1970 VW Beetle family car purchased new in 70. Used frequently in cooler weather.

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  • Biography
    Born in CT, raised in FL and now residing in AZ.
  • Occupation
    Registered Nurse


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  1. Reused the original metal frame for this one. You could TIG weld on new tabs if yours are broken off.
  2. Thanks everyone, and thanks for the kind words, Andy. Forgive the tardy response. I’ve become very busy at my regular job and even more involved at the shop and I forget to check in.... 😕 Not sure how many miles I have on the motor now, but I can look. It’s running like a top. Retaining the old lifters created a bit more work in repeated valve lashings until I got it where I wanted it. The turbo is still sitting on the bench where I left it.... 🙄.... Brian keeps bugging me about “let’s force induct a ‘37 coupe today” when I arrive on Saturdays, but there’s a little work I need to complete first. The cylinder head either developed a small crack or I missed it when we magged it away back when.... over the piston between #4 and #5. It’s a small one.... maybe 0.5-0.75” long. With the non pressure system it really doesn’t leak anything, but it made an ugly rust stain right there for everyone to see. I want to pull it, braze it up and reinstall before I try forcing extra air down the car’s throat. Oil pressure cold is still 60 psi, decreases to 50 at hot cruise, 12-15 psi at idle (factory gauge, so kind of guessing on the low end. Max matched the gauge we used when we drill-spun to oil prime prior to install. Water temp goes to 180° and stays there even in 115° weather. Trans howls a bit. I’ve been collecting NOS parts to do it again and have everything except a cluster and 1/R. I hesitated on a cluster 1st/Reverse set early in the year and missed out. The available NOS ones on ebay are ridiculously priced. It can howl all it wants, but I’ll not shell out $400 for a cluster gear. Still looks good, still gets complements at cruises. Old timers love that I pull in (after a long day at the shop) in a 6v coupe with its original flatty. One guy walked by and asked if I’d mind starting it for him so he could listen. I said “bend your ear over here, Mister... it’s running now” That night I smiled all the way home.
  3. Love the car. Love the color!!
  4. All i know is my ‘37 is so wedge shaped that even the 6” straight armed mirrors only show me the side of the car unless I turn them out a ways. They’re useless for backing into the garage as I can’t see anything straight behind me. How wedge shaped is a 51? I’m guessing they’re wider up front than the typical 30s coupe. Might be fine with curved arm, but for me I’d still go straight arm.
  5. No. Main bearing journals are completely different size. OP: Why not just pull the 201 and get it repaired and then put it back in? Seems like a lot of trouble to go though for a couple months of waiting...
  6. All I have is a seal along the bottom of the door panel held in place by... the door panel.
  7. I’ll look in the am. I just recall a windlace on mine....
  8. Welcome. Saw that car on CL. Personally I like the 6v. Works just fine.
  9. Depending on the condition of the motor... as mentioned, plugged/rotted water tube? I’ll say from experience upon tearing down my ‘37 I found an almost non existent water tube, and enough crud built up in the water jacket at the floor and around cylinders No. 5-6 that there couldn’t have been much circulation back there. Engine ran hot even in cool weather.
  10. I ordered from bernbaum for my 37. They sent the wrong shoes. Bigger ones for a later model. They sent me the proper ones eventually, but by then I’d already taken my shoes to be relined. If relining is a viable option don’t shy away from it.
  11. https://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/tighteningtorque.ht Think I torqued mine to 18lb/ft. I don’t recall a torque spec in the book either, but torque specs should hold from application to application. Just follow a torque schedule like the above.
  12. Give a shout if you need any additional advice. Also, if you need any machine work I know the place to go.
  13. Valve guides don’t always have to be replaced. Depends on how much slop is in them. Your machine shop can guide you on that. And a silicone bronze guide liner can be installed quite easily and probably save a bit of time. Oil? I’d probably see what the bearing relief is after machine work. 0.0025”- 0.003” clearance I’d use Valvoline VR-1 20w50. It has everything a flat tappet cam could need, and you’ll get arguments about if or not our whimpy spring valve train even needs it. For my $ I’m happy to spend a little extra for the peace of mind. Few of us drive 3k-4k miles a month in these old cars. You won’t be doing multiple oil changes per year. You can read my (and other’s) multiple build threads throughout the forum and get some solid guidance. http://p15-d24.com/topic/43897-time-for-an-overhaul/?tab=comments#comment-467033
  14. Thanks, fellows. It works. I use it EVERY time I enjoy a drive which in Arizona is rear ‘round. It seems a little stiff is why I am asking. And looking at the metal strip that raises and supports the window itself made me wonder first of all how the heck it works (it’s perfectly smooth) and if I needed to give it periodic attention.
  15. Wondering if there’s any recommended maintenance for the windscreen opening mechanism. I looked through the service manual and did not find anything. Definitely do not want this thing breaking due to lack of care.
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