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bkahler

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bkahler last won the day on October 24

bkahler had the most liked content!

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About bkahler

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 01/10/1957

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  • Website URL
    http://campkahler.com/dodge
  • Occupation
    Automation Engineer

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B

Converted

  • Location
    Richmond, Kentucky
  • Interests
    Old trucks, old cars

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  1. Hmm, I think I can do that 😁 I'm sure my cat will want to get involved once he see's it rolling across the floor....... Brad
  2. I was wondering how those marks could have been made on the back of the pulley. Makes sense. I'll have to figure out a way to check for out of round. Thanks! Brad
  3. Back when I set the engine on the frame I knew at the time that I needed to address the grooves in the crank pulley hub. However I didn't want to leave the front of the engine open so I installed the crank pulley to fill the hole in the interim. Plans are to install a speedi-sleeve to correct the problem. Today I pulled the pulley and noticed something I wasn't expecting. Just from hand turning the crank the paint rubbed off the pulley and the engine support frame. I think I now know the reason why the crank was so hard to turn without a cheater bar on it! Looking into the problem I removed the two bolts holding the support frame in place on the frame and found that it's adjustable and I had basically set the support frame to far forward. I believe just moving the bottom of the support frame towards the rear will resolve the rubbing issue. I suppose it's a good thing I'm dismantling things right now. I did a lot of work in haste 20 years ago and I think it's paying off to double check things now Brad
  4. After nine days without internet service, four service calls, dozens of phone calls to various departments, it turns out AT&T's finest were bested by a mouse.....! Back to Dodge stuff A number of years ago I found one of the large service desk binders on ebay. It covers the B series pickups, power wagons and route vans. It has one section my other oem parts book doesn't have and that's a Standard Parts section. My smaller book has the Standard Parts listing but only has one page with a reference to a different document. The big book has a half dozen pages or more covering standard hardware and their associated parts numbers. Pretty cool. Brad
  5. It turns out the shocks purchased at such a good price on ebay weren't quite the deal I was expecting. The first box I opened the shop was obviously used and worn out. I then opened the other boxes and while the shocks looked new they have issues. Mainly when you depress them only one of the shocks rebounds at a reasonable rate. All of them take some effort to depress but as you can see in the picture the bottom two take their sweet time about extending. I contacted the seller who while surprised at their condition provided me with a full refund. He told me he is selling parts from a closed auto parts store. There's no telling how long the shocks laid on their sides. These are gas shocks and I would expect them to be difficult to depress and extend rather quickly after doing so. I've placed the three new ones in a vertical position and am going to see if they recover any. It will be interesting to see if they do recover. At least the seller was great to deal with although I'm sure he wasn't happy. Brad
  6. I have original copies of the factory parts book and service manuals. I find that the service manual is not all that helpful to the point I don't really think it's worth looking at it any more. I was looking at it this morning trying to find information on the transmission rear bearing retainer and couldn't find anything about it in the manual. Any suggestions on a good manual that would have better detailed information? Thanks, Brad
  7. Are you still in the business of making these control cables? I'm not even sure I need any yet but it's nice to know there might be a source Brad
  8. That was what I figured. I also noticed the Offenhauser intake is a little wider than the exhaust manifold so a spacer would help keep the spring from being forced diagonally towards the exhaust possibly putting in into a bind. I'll fabricate a spacer to take care of that issue. I miss having the opportunity to wander through junk yards looking for parts. I'm going to have to make real effort to locate some older yards around here. Back in Nebraska I had no issues finding places that had parts that I needed. Of course that was 20 years go so who knows if that's changed. Brad
  9. That's my plan, using a propane torch. (If I can find it!) My assumption is the spring relaxes, i.e gets weaker, which allows the weight to fall. Thanks, Brad
  10. I'll tinker some more with it in the next couple of days (if the garage isn't to cold!). So the spring gets weaker and allows the weight to move down as the engine heats up. See attached picture, item 3. No swap meets around here! I'll keep looking I've got some greenish colored pipe sealant used for gasoline and oil based type products. I'll give that a try. Thanks, Brad
  11. Questions, questions and more questions 1) It appears I might have an issue with my heat riser spring. I'm not sure but it seems to operate backwards. Searching the forums it sounds like at one time Andy Bernbaum was selling some that were wound backwards. I bought my spring from Andy back in 1998. In order to be sure, what should the spring do when wind or unwind when heated? 2) It also seems that I have lost the spacer that goes on the shaft of the heat riser. Anyone know of a source for one? 3) Brake backing plate shims for shimming to create the correct clearances for the axles. Anyone know of a source for them? 4) I'm considering a dual horn setup. Anyone know of a source for a short version of the factory horn? 5) When installing the brake switch and the 1/4" plug in the back of the master cylinder, should I use any kind of sealant on those threads? Told you I had questions! Thanks, Brad
  12. I called Andy Bernbaum to verify and ordered. One 8' length is enough for both doors. Same for the window sweep, 8' takes care of both doors. Thanks for letting me hijack! Brad
  13. Looking things over I believe you're right. The only other question is 8' for both windows or one?!
  14. That may well be it. If I remember right there are two tracks for each door window, one that is flexible enough to curve and one that is straight. To me it looks like the straight track, but that's just my impression. Or, is the straight track called the "division" channel?
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