bkahler

Will do. Thanks

Are you still in the business of making these control cables? I'm not even sure I need any yet but it's nice to know there might be a source Brad

That was what I figured. I also noticed the Offenhauser intake is a little wider than the exhaust manifold so a spacer would help keep the spring from being forced diagonally towards the exhaust possibly putting in into a bind. I'll fabricate a spacer to take care of that issue. I miss having the opportunity to wander through junk yards looking for parts. I'm going to have to make real effort to locate some older yards around here. Back in Nebraska I had no issues finding places that had parts that I needed. Of course that was 20 years go so who knows if that's changed. Brad

That's my plan, using a propane torch. (If I can find it!) My assumption is the spring relaxes, i.e gets weaker, which allows the weight to fall. Thanks, Brad

I'll tinker some more with it in the next couple of days (if the garage isn't to cold!). So the spring gets weaker and allows the weight to move down as the engine heats up. See attached picture, item 3. No swap meets around here! I'll keep looking I've got some greenish colored pipe sealant used for gasoline and oil based type products. I'll give that a try. Thanks, Brad

Questions, questions and more questions 1) It appears I might have an issue with my heat riser spring. I'm not sure but it seems to operate backwards. Searching the forums it sounds like at one time Andy Bernbaum was selling some that were wound backwards. I bought my spring from Andy back in 1998. In order to be sure, what should the spring do when wind or unwind when heated? 2) It also seems that I have lost the spacer that goes on the shaft of the heat riser. Anyone know of a source for one? 3) Brake backing plate shims for shimming to create the correct clearances for the axles. Anyone know of a source for them? 4) I'm considering a dual horn setup. Anyone know of a source for a short version of the factory horn? 5) When installing the brake switch and the 1/4" plug in the back of the master cylinder, should I use any kind of sealant on those threads? Told you I had questions! Thanks, Brad

I called Andy Bernbaum to verify and ordered. One 8' length is enough for both doors. Same for the window sweep, 8' takes care of both doors. Thanks for letting me hijack! Brad

Looking things over I believe you're right. The only other question is 8' for both windows or one?!

That may well be it. If I remember right there are two tracks for each door window, one that is flexible enough to curve and one that is straight. To me it looks like the straight track, but that's just my impression. Or, is the straight track called the "division" channel?

They may list it but I couldn't find it based on their descriptions. However, I have been known to miss things (frequently)!

Not intending to hijack this thread but can someone provide a source for the curved Run 23-42-16 in the diagram? I've searched Steele and Roberts with no luck. Thanks, Brad

Brian, thanks for taking all of the time and effort to compile this information. It was very timely to say the least. Much appreciated! Brad

Back in 1997 when I was prepping the frame and various other components I came across a product called Copy Cad from Caswell Inc. It was advertised as a DIY product. I thought it sounded pretty cool and decided to try using it. In the attached picture are four J bolts that are used to fasten the rear leaf spring bumper mounts to the frame. I followed the instructions, sandblasted the parts, ect and they looked pretty good when I installed them. However, 20+ years later they don't look so good. I bolted them to the frame in 97 and the truck has always sat inside, never been wet. I would have to say the long term results are less than satisfactory. This time around I'm just going to sandblast and paint them black. Brad

It's possible I have the hubs on the wrong sides as well but I know for certain that my backing plates are wrong because the brake lines to the rear wheel cylinders are angled to the rear and not the front. Considering that it's been 20 years since I assembled the brakes and suspension I've made the decision to just tear all of it apart, check things out and reassemble in the proper order. Better to do it all now while the access is nice and easy. At least I shouldn't have to deal with rusty bolts.....! Brad

Oh yeah one other thing. I noticed last night that I apparently have the rear brake backing plates are swapped. I have the drives side on the passenger side and vise versa. Another indication I was in a real hurry to get the truck on wheels so I could get it loaded on the trailer for the move south! Brad