1949 Wraith

For a quick cheap fix you might want to try, "SealsAll". Drain your oil clean up the seam, apply. Stuff has been around forever and is gas and oil resistant.

My '41 Chrysler running fine and then it would not start. Replaced parts one at a time, coil, distrutor cap, and when I replaced the rotor she ran like a charm. There did not look like any wear on the rotor but that was my no start issue. Replace your rotor and see if it works.

Nice looking original truck. Enoy the journey.

Very nice.

You could also attend car swap meets in your area. Ask vendors who are carrying old car and truck parts if they know of anyone that has your model and possible parts. You will start to make local contacts who might know someone who has what you are looking for.

I have purchased carb kits from Mike's. He was helpful in finding the kit for my Rolls and I have purchased kits for my Chrysler. Send him the model of your carb and He will suggest the rebuild kit needed. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/

Your carb is vented so there should be no pressure build up in the float bowl.

Do you have a vacuum line coming off of either of your carbs to the distrubutor vaccum advance? It looks like they should come off the lowest part of a carb. I would try plugging both holes if you have a vacuum advance line and see if you have any noticable difference in performance.

I thought the steering boxes took 90 weight gear oil. If there is grease in your steering box I thought that was an old farm fix for a leaking steering box. Have you checked the level in your steering box?

Join you might want to post your inquiry in the car section of the forum for a better response.

The previous owner of my '38 Dodge sedan installed this unit and it works fine. An alternative if you do not need a stock look.

I would take advantage of the split manifold and and put on dual exhaust. It helps the engine breath, as the rear cylinder has basically no back pressure and loads at the front. I had the manifold cut on my '38 Dodge 218 and she works very nice, the heat riser area was cut out and I have never had issues with cold running even in below freezing temperatures. I will probably do the same to my '51 Dodge truck when I locate a spare exhaust manifold.

I ordered and installed the Mar-K stainless bed and side rails in my truck. their side angle rails match the hole placement of the bed rails, so i had to drill 2 new mount locations other than that things fit nice.

Your truck should be the same as mine. I just replaced the tubes to the defroster on mine and I used the old carb preheater tubes from the 70's, two for the drivers side and 1 for the passenger. My outlet had an inside diameter of 1.75" used the Dorman units, very robust and good accordian stretch and bend, cost around $10 from Rock auto for all 3.

No 2 separate units, the one with the doors you open to heat the interior and probably close to force air to the defoggers