1949 Wraith

Join you might want to post your inquiry in the car section of the forum for a better response.

The previous owner of my '38 Dodge sedan installed this unit and it works fine. An alternative if you do not need a stock look.

I would take advantage of the split manifold and and put on dual exhaust. It helps the engine breath, as the rear cylinder has basically no back pressure and loads at the front. I had the manifold cut on my '38 Dodge 218 and she works very nice, the heat riser area was cut out and I have never had issues with cold running even in below freezing temperatures. I will probably do the same to my '51 Dodge truck when I locate a spare exhaust manifold.

I ordered and installed the Mar-K stainless bed and side rails in my truck. their side angle rails match the hole placement of the bed rails, so i had to drill 2 new mount locations other than that things fit nice.

Your truck should be the same as mine. I just replaced the tubes to the defroster on mine and I used the old carb preheater tubes from the 70's, two for the drivers side and 1 for the passenger. My outlet had an inside diameter of 1.75" used the Dorman units, very robust and good accordian stretch and bend, cost around $10 from Rock auto for all 3.

No 2 separate units, the one with the doors you open to heat the interior and probably close to force air to the defoggers

The top one would probably need to be turner the other way to have the demist outlets face left. Probably just need wire an on\off switch and open or close small doors to direct heat. My truck has a valve on the head that you open or close at the begining of the hot or cold season. Both heaters could probably be adapted see which one is in the best shape and go from there.

Your heater valve opening on the engine head are the hoses getting warm?

I used an old paint brush and lightly coated all sides of the spring packs with some used oil. It did improve the ride and after about 100 miles rusty oil was weaping out between the springs cleaned up fairly easy.

Thanks this is is something to consider. I have a manual choke so that is not an issue and I knew I would have to make some linkage if I went with anything thicker than a plain heat sheild. I have gotten lazy I use the throttle knob on the dash. My throttle peddle had a bend in it from previous owners stompin their heal on it.

I have the hot start issue with my '51 Dodge truck. She starts right up when cold, but if you stop and have a coffee say 15-20 minutes she will not start on the first crank. Iif you stop for an hour she will start right up she is a 12 volt conversion so she cranks fast. I installed heat sheild on the fuel pump and installing an switched aux electric fuel pump and that does not change my hot starts when used. Hot starts are improved with some open throttle, hard to do without engaging accelorator pump. So in my case I believe my issue is flooding due to fuel perculation. I have tried setting the fuel level lower in the carb with no noticeable effect. I plan on making a heat shield for the carb this winter and I have been looking for an 3\8" insulated spacer like the GM trucks had. No luck finding one of those yet.

Have you checked with DCM they have some shackle parts. \https://dcmclassics.com/24-Suspension-Parts?id_category=24&n=42

I just made up a wiring harness for my '51 using Allan Parkhurt's notes, lots of excellent information. I have a 12 volt conversion and used all the original gauges, plus I added a small fuse panel and some relays.

Are all your spark plug leads connected correctly? Have you checked your spark plugs? I'm wondering if all plugs are firing.Maybe water in your gas?

You have the make and model of the motor handy?