48Dodger

I started out on the DPETCA (Dodge Pilot-house Truck Club of America) website back in 2006, I believe.....the 1st Monday of the month chat room led me to Pilot-House.com. Been here since 2007. It led to the Annual Clements, Ca Tailgate Truck Show I started in 2008. Facebook is a different animal all together...its not a resource so much as a chat room. Here I feel like I'm part of a club.....on FB, I feel like I'm meeting people at a car show....sort of a hit run conversation, see ya at the next show. Its not a criticism so much as an observation. When I really need to follow up on how something works on the truck, I come here and do the research. 48D

Omg..."Rob-Rated"....how did I miss that??? This is why I'm friends with you. You remind me I was in the 5th grade once. Thanks brother 😅

It'll be a great lunch table too!!! Blade down of course......unless you need help cutting your sandwich in half. 48D

Bryan's Salvage....no website....no real employees...rarely answers the phone....has you pull your part...never over priced or difficult to deal with.....very old school. 48D

Where in California are you? I might have one and/or you could try Bryan's Wrecking in American Canyon...by Vallejo. 48D

If you're wonder what it looks like in an engine...... 48D

True color matching takes time and effort and big panels to be sure. Single stage Two Stage (base/clear) Three Stage (base/mid/clear) All of these come with there own technique to get it right. IMO I would just plan on painting the whole cab, hood and fenders. I mean, its not a station wagon or Cadillac....its a cab and some....you can do it. Use the Sherwin Williams auto paint that's close to the same color. Fill the deep scratches. Use a thinned Epoxy primer mix to cover weak spots (an epoxy primers that isn't acid based. DP40 is acid based for bare steel) Use a 2 stage paint system for painting outside...basecoat it..lightly sand the dust and bugs out after the color drys....spot paint if you need to....than clear it with two coats of clear....let it dry, sand it, thin the clear and clear it again. Epoxy primers are designed to protect steel (even non acid based epoxy primers) Thinned Epoxy Primer acts as a sealer before painting as well. Urethane Primers are thought of as the last stage of body work...liquid body filler, is what I like to say. Its soft and easy to sand. Epoxy Primer is what you use to cover the Urethane Primer with as a sealer before paint. Its getting harder to find stand alone Epoxy and Urethane Primers.....they want to make you believe, what they are selling you, can effectively do both. I always try to get the two separate. 48D

I will call him "DONUT".....because you like him so much, you'd "eat" him up until he's gone. Its a play on the words "Donor Parts"...."Donor Purts"...."DonoPurt"...."Donut".....!! 48D

I built a lifting tool for a one man installation. I taped the joints....but be careful.....use low tack tape for those tight areas...don't want to pull any slow curing paint spots up. The tool is designed to manipulate the center piece front to back. I'm 6'1, strong, and could hold it over the engine bay. I'm not sure its for everyone, but handling the 3 part hood from the center is the key. the lifter: two pieces of plywood cut to the profile of the hood center, spacer blocks (2x4's), screws up through the hood ornament holes into the 2x4, and a cross piece of plywood across the back, with a 2x4 to catch the back. it gets the hood on and over the engine bay. The rough spots are taped, the landing area is covered with a blanket. I've done this twice. Is it genius? Hell no.....its just what I thought of at the time because I work alone. 48D

lol....I kid. Brent is fearless when it comes to towing. He's got that bunch of mountains between Oregon and California that are no joke. He has got some serious nuts holding those wheels on, I tell ya. Brent is a real trucker kinda guy for sure! 48D

The longest road trip made to the Q, was a 1938 Panel truck from Spokane, Washington, I believe. Brent has shown up from the Portland, Oregon area a few times with various 1 and 1.5 tonners. And even went to "Back to the 50's" in Minnesota, trailering his 1 tonner. Mark brings beer... Minnesota beer. Mark wins. 48D

Vacuum source: Ported(carb)("timed vacuum") vs Manifold(fulltime vacuum) ...... Smog laws gave us the advance systems most understand today concerning carbureted engines. The first advancing systems were needed(@1930's) when engines rose above @2000 rpm under load. The reason? Burning of fuel moves slower than the motion of the pistons, reducing V.E. (volumetric efficiency). Most V.E. formulas are expressed as .8, or 80 percent of fuel burned. The unburnt fuel is "raw" or pollution. The job of the catalytic convertor is to burn that last 20 percent of fuel. 48D

Try not to rust this one out like you did the last one, Brent! 😃 48D

I'm stamped a newbie!!!! Will this effect my Social Security status??? 48newbie

OK....made it an event. I'll post a picture later today.... Then let's see what will comes of it. I'll be more than happy to steer anyone here, to the forum, to give them a better idea of how we roll...lol 48D link to FB posted event