TodFitch

I am going to assume the original post meant “Looking for a vendor for . . .” Requests to purchase parts from other members must be made in the classified ad area. If someone has a part the OP might want, do not reply in this thread but rather use the private message facility to communicate with them. Thanks to @Merle Coggins and @Sniper for appropriately responding with suggested vendors and sources of information.

At least on my '33, you can remove and re-install the oil pan with the engine in the car. It is a lot easier with a lift (did it that way once) but you can do it laying on your garage floor (done it that way more than once). Front end suspension and frame cross member are different on your '34 but I suspect you will still have enough clearance. However, I would not be surprised if your leaks are as likely to be things like the front and rear seals. I am not aware of a way to do the front crank seal without pulling the engine (timing chain cover is pretty much hidden beh

+1 Not sure if yours is an Elliot or a Reverse Elliot (bushings on spindle or on axle). For my 1933 the bushings are in the spindle which means I could take it to my bench vise which I used as a press and, like @kencombs I used a couple of old sockets as the press tooling.

Showing my age, but it was simply a "column shift" or "column mounted shifter" where and when I was raised. Only vehicles around with a floor mounted shift lever at that time were trucks and really old (1930s and earlier) cars. Only started being called "three on the tree", in a tongue in cheek manner, when sportier cars in the 1960s started getting "four on the floor" shifters.

We are moving into political discussion on this thread so I am locking it.

My wife has been selling things on Etsy. In general shipping by USPS hasn’t been too bad. But there was one package that sat in a post office in Indiana for 5 weeks before being delivered. My wife sends the tracking numbers to the buyers so they can see where the package is too. I am guessing that is why that customer did not complain to Etsy about my wife’s shipping practices. Anyway, regardless of the “normal” USPS delivery times, there can be some really big exceptions.

I was under the impression that GM brands varied on being positive or negative ground. I vaguely recall Buick being positive ground in the 1920s or 30s. But am pretty sure Chevrolet was negative ground, at least in the late 1930s. This from memories from decades ago when I helped some people with cars other than Mopar. But my memory could be wrong. And my personal library is pretty limited on things other than Plymouth. The only thing that shows this in my library is my Chilton’s Auto Repair Guide for 1940-53 where the information on voltage regulator specifications shows system po

Would that be Chrysler part 856981? If so, you should be able to get them new. For example: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWRWA2592

That is probably an AirTex 587 which you can still get new. Here are some listings: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-587 https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-587-Mechanical-Fuel-Pump/dp/B0027ICTHA https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mechanical-Fuel-Pump-Airtex-587-/303797459872 Might even be this one with the picture upside down: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CFPB0013P And Then N Now may well have a rebuild kit for less than the retail prices for the above. Fuel pumps are easy to rebuild and given the quality of things, I'd probably trust one I

That is not the original pump. Similar, but not exactly the same. There is often some numbers stamped on the top of the mounting flange where the pump bolts on to the block. I can't tell from your photo if there is anything there or not. If there is something there it could help identify exactly what the pump is.

Then N Now (aka Antique Auto Parts Cellar) is a good company and the rebuild kits come with spring clips that hold the actuating pivot pin in position so it won't walk out (which is a common failure on the current production replacement pumps). There should be some numbers stamped on the existing fuel pump, be sure you send those to to Then N Now so they can supply the correct kit (the pump you have may not be original).

I don't think so. The inlet and outlet check valves should see the same flow when gas is pumped by the electric as when the pump itself is doing the work. The spring loaded diaphragm that runs off the cam to pump the gas will be held in the pressurized position. Which actually means there is likely a bit less wear on things like the actuating arm, pivot points, etc.

I am considering installing an electric fuel pump back by the tank to cover two situations: Priming the carburetor if the car has been sitting a long while. Quickly recovering from fuel pump vapor lock. I want to run mostly/always on the original mechanical pump so want an electrical pump that would allow the original pump to pull through without too much restriction. I would power it from a momentary contact switch, maybe hidden under the dash. And, of course, it needs to work on a 6v positive ground electrical system. Any recommendations on brand and/or model of p

Should be a serial number tag on the right front door hinge post. Putting that number into the lookup tool at https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin should tell you what the car is.

Yep. Somewhere, probably in one of my service manuals, I read the way to drain was to remove one of the lower bolts holding the pumpkin on to the axle housing.