0 vs 1 gauge cables

[DonaldSmith]

The dogma for battery cables is to get 0 gauge cables made, maybe at a local welding supply shop.  Or maybe 00.  I beg to differ.  Well. at least I'm asking politely to differ.  

 

I have 1 gauge cables from Tractor Supply that are serving me well.  I even have the knobby disconnect clamps at the battery, so part of it remains clamped to the battery, and the knob part is clamped to the cable.   Easy to disconnect the positive (ground) cable when the car is parked for a while.   Of course, the clamped surfaces are covered with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. 

 

I'll grant that in borderline situations, and where the battery is under the floor, the larger cables may make a difference.  But for most cases, the 1-gauge cables are less expensive, more readily available, and more than adequate. 

 

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.  

[Sam Buchanan]

If what you have is working well then that's all you need. The only point I will make in regard to your post is that 0 gauge cables are not expensive and are readily available. I used this vendor and had my custom-made cables in about a week. Two battery cables, a chassis ground cable and a starter cable were $40 shipped to my door.

 

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg

 

Edited September 13, 2021 by Sam Buchanan

[Plymouthy Adams]

with the size 1 cable...there is no margin for the smallest voltage drop.......of course...a well tuned easy to start car with the electrical system checked and cleaned on a regular schedule should not experience a voltage drop.....

Edited September 13, 2021 by Plymouthy Adams

[DonaldSmith]

Ain't got no voltage drop.  I've got star washers at the solenoid, and I keep the nuts tight.   It's sort of like the old Sears Good, Better and Best. 

 

(Anyone else ready to admit that they have 1 gauge cables?  I don't want to be hanging out here alone.) 

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

you might find you are on the short noose and lower limb alone.....lol   Well maintained system....starter bush in good repair...you are operating at the upper threshold limits.  Long or frequent starter grinds and you will get some warmth in that 1 size.

[Young Ed]

I will freely admit I have 1 gauge cables on my stuff. I will also state 1 gauge is the OEM spec for our mopars. 

[Sniper]

I am running 4 gauge.

 

But I converted to 12v, lol.

[RobertKB]

I run 1 gauge in my three old 6V Mopars and never had a problem. 

[keithb7]

In certain instances 00 or 0 cable can actually be too big. It can be a tight fit getting a large cable off the battery located under the seat. It takes a sharp turn down to travel along the frame.  Under the cab.It can rub in this area at the battery box. Quite dangerous if a negative cable rubs thru to the positive ground. I caught mine in time. Rubbing was happening. Someone unaware could have burnt the car into a crispy pile of metal. 

[knuckleharley]

Or maybe try a big truck repair garage or a tractor dealership.

[Dan Hiebert]

Most NAPA stores will make 0 gauge cables to your specs.  No more $ than cables off the shelf.  That's where I had the ones made for our Terraplane last year.  FWIW, I bought off the shelf 0 gauge cables for our D24 at an Auto Zone , but that was about 20 years ago.

[Bryan G]

I bought mine on eBay from the seller gaugewireandcable. Possibly the same company Sam used? The only thing I'd do different is just buy 2 black cables because I think the heat shrink on the read one stands out a bit much. Very nice quality and very pliable, didn't take that long and I thought the price was very reasonable. I did check my local NAPA first but their selection was abysmal. 

Edited September 14, 2021 by Bryan G

[busycoupe]

As Young Ed says, #1 is oem spec.  I bought a set of #1 cables from Rock Auto about 10 years ago.  They work great! never had a problem with them. 

[DonaldSmith]

So, the cable size is one of the things where we can "agree to disagree".  (I hate that phrase; don't try to shut off the discussion.  Sometimes I don't want to agree.) 

 

Has anyone made a Preferences Form for P15D24 members?  

 

O gauge vs 1 gauge. 

Ethanol-free gas vs whatever comes out of the pump.  

Points vs electronic ignition 

30 wt vs multi-grade

Etc. 

 

[Kilgore47]

When I first got the P15 I went to the local auto parts store and they didn't have the correct cables for a 6 volt system.  So I used double 12 volt cables.  Worked OK but still didn't spin fast enough.  Last summer I ordered 00 cables and installed them.  Didn't really make a difference.  Turns out the battery I had was weak.  It didn't have enough cranking amps.  So I bought an expensive battery with about a million cranking amps (may be an exaggeration) and that did the trick.  Spins like a 12 volt now.  And the big fat cables are a big hit at cruise nights.  It's one of the first things people notice under the hood.  What big cables you have!!! 

[martybose]

I used 00 when I had my custom cables made.  But I moved the ground connection point to one of the starter bolts, and I had pigtails added at that end to additionally ground both the frame and the body.  I never had a ground problem for anything electrical on my car after that.

 

Marty

[knuckleharley]

2 hours ago, martybose said:

I used 00 when I had my custom cables made.  But I moved the ground connection point to one of the starter bolts, and I had pigtails added at that end to additionally ground both the frame and the body.  I never had a ground problem for anything electrical on my car after that.

 

Marty

Ahhhh,there is nothing quite as satisfactory as reduncy! No such critter as too much of a good thing.

[Sniper]

2 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

Ahhhh,there is nothing quite as satisfactory as redundancy! No such critter as too much of a good thing.

 

Yes, all of my light housings have dedicated grounds wired to them and run back to the battery.

Edited September 14, 2021 by Sniper

[Los_Control]

I have a 2/0 ground wire ...  a much smaller 12 volt cable for the positive. All that was available at local parts store.

So I only bought the 1 wrong cable that was fried on my truck. The 12 volt + cable was there and left it.

 

Really is ground that is most critical. And something to remember when looking for a solution to a electrical problem ... On a 6 volt positive ground car.

I am  only saying, running the 2/0 ground and chincy 20 year old 12 volt cable. My truck starts fine.

The only issue it has is no gas tank, run it off a gas can, got to crank it for several min to get gas to carb.

So  when  letting it sit for several  weeks without starting ....  it  will crank over and start after the fuel pump fills the carb.

 

I am just giving my 2 cents. I know a 2/0 cable works for a + ground. I know the 12 volt cables are not right, but to get you by, they work fine on the   negative side of the battery.

 

If 2/0 cable starts me up fine in the driveway, I imagine  1/0  will be  better.  Nothing wrong with 0/0.

Who knows, I may buy either when I actually re-wire the truck ....  I may end up with 2/0 cable and not care.

 

 

[JBNeal]

The trucks had 1/0 cable, not sure why those flatheads had this other than to deal with extreme environmental conditions.  In hot starting conditions where ambient temperatures are above 100°F, I noticed a slight decrease in starter speed by sound, no doubt that a smaller gauge cable would have caused the starter speed to drag further with the increased impedence.  Also, I've mentioned many times that Marvel Mystery Oil counteracts the evaporative effects of ethanol in modern gasoline blends, keeping 87 octane fresh for months for quick startups after lengthy equipment idle periods.

 

additional information - flathead starter performance upgrade

[Los_Control]

The 2/0 is actually pretty stout. I believe it is used on modern diesel trucks which often have 2 batteries running starter off of 24 volts.

Mine is labeled as 2/0 / 62mm welding cable. With battery ends attached.

 

Main thing, it is used on modern cars and readily available in local parts stores. So while not original they do work.

[chrysler1941]

On 9/13/2021 at 8:37 AM, DonaldSmith said:

(Anyone else ready to admit that they have 1 gauge cables?  I don't want to be hanging out here alone.) 

 

Maybe. We don't have these ratings. Mine are 70 mm²

Car starts instantly, but then again I have 6 hidden ground cables, one of them directly to starter bolt as explained in an earlier thread.

Edited September 16, 2021 by chrysler1941

[48jumpdoors]

On 9/16/2021 at 8:21 AM, chrysler1941 said:

 

Maybe. We don't have these ratings. Mine are 70 mm²

Car starts instantly, but then again I have 6 hidden ground cables, one of them directly to starter bolt as explained in an earlier thread.

so you mentioned that you have hidden grounds, I know that they are important and other than the obvious grounds what grounds are you talking about? Thanks

[desoto1939]

here is a page from my MoPar Terminal, Cables catalog telling that all mopar used 1 guage battery cables. Also note that thes cable also had a metal spring covering besides the cloth covering over the metal cable.  The spring was used to protect the cloth covering and to prevent the cloth covering from getting cut and then causing a shot.  This was especially important when the batteries were located under the fron seat and just under the driver and the cable then got routed to the appropriate connections on the car.  I have only seen one original cable like this and it was for sale by Frank Mitchell and it was not cheap but remember it was NOS and original not repro like what we get from the MoPar vendors.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

 

Edited November 22, 2021 by desoto1939

[chrysler1941]

On 11/19/2021 at 6:23 PM, 48jumpdoors said:

so you mentioned that you have hidden grounds, I know that they are important and other than the obvious grounds what grounds are you talking about? Thanks

Strap from original battery ground stud bolt under generator to frame. 

Straps connecting transmission to frame on both sides. (clutch  housing bolts)

Strap from starter bolt to engine. (see thread about sluggish starters)

Straps connecting rear body to frame both sides (upper shock stud mount to body mount)