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Dan Hiebert

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Everything posted by Dan Hiebert

  1. Well, the ad does say this is NOT the car he took on that road trip. It also says "restored"...but it doesn't run. Still a nice car, though. I'd leave it for a buyer to decide if it's $83K nice.
  2. I briefly pondered monkeying with it to make it fit, wouldn't have taken much. But I opted to return it. It looks good and is well made, just off a hair.
  3. The aluminum unit I ordered did not fit right. All the measurements were good, but where the holes were in the brackets made it rest directly on the radiator support. Not good, especially with aluminum vs. steel. I'd say back to the drawing board, but I scored that Dodge radiator from MarcDesoto. I had called the two places you'uns referenced, worthy businesses but both estimated a bit north of $1500 to fix mine, and one is a three hour, the other a four hour drive from here. I don't mind road trips and the cost, but not if I could get a good radiator for half that. So that worked out well for both me and Marc. Still won't make Independence Day weekend festivities with the Dodge, but at least we'll have it back on the road this summer. I realized the other day that this is the first time in 30 years we haven't had the ol' Dodge out yet.
  4. It was 35 degrees over here the morning of the summer solstice. Which is actually not unusual but folks seem to have a short memory about such things. I haven't needed to drive a car with two fingers since we moved to Maine...unless we were visiting someone in the southwest.
  5. I remember that Plymouth in Capitan, it was still there last April. Rough enough shape that I didn't stop to look at it closer, although if it were up here it would be considered to be in pretty good condition. Our Daughter lives between Capitan and Ruidoso, her zip code is Capitan.
  6. My Dad's stomping grounds in NM. My younger brother was a police officer in Socorro for a while. Been out there on US 60 in both directions a few times and agree as to the awesomeness...and the quality of the burgers at that corner joint in Datil, although it's been many years since I've had one, probably different ownership since. That affliction must be contagious over the internet...our daughter lives just outside Ruidoso...we're going down there next month...we're already taking a car trailer...I don't need another old vehicle...but been half a** looking for an old pickup (with the wife's blessing, sorta)...I'd fancy a Plymouth PU...etc...etc. It would indeed be an appropriate antidote for someone to buy that before I start poking around.
  7. Thanks, I'll give them a call as well. The shop I went to in Bangor has been in business over 90 years and has a stellar reputation as well, but still has the northern Maine (although we up here in The County don't consider Bangor "northern") supply stigma attached, which is nothing new. I'm game for taking the original downstate if we ultimately decide we have to have an original radiator, good opportunity to explore.
  8. I had not heard of them. I've got a new aluminum unit coming, but would still like to do something with the original. I'll give them a call, thanks!
  9. I used to be picky about that, then decided I'd rather drive the car that fret over originality. Of course, I still get a kick out of making original stuff work. I've ordered a Champion unit, should be here tomorrow.
  10. Drats! The radiator shop can't get the parts to repair our original radiator any time soon. It has to be recored. There is also a "header", which is what he called the piece at the top of the core / bottom of the top tank, that was the primary source of the leak and has to be replaced. That is the part he can't get. There is a place that manufactures cores here in Maine that will make one, but it is several months out, and I didn't even bother asking what the price for that would be, since they had already estimated about $1600 before that part needed replacement. So, I know a few of you have installed aluminum aftermarket replacements and have had no issues. I haven't found any specifically for Dodge, but there are some for Chrysler that have the right measurements, so I'll go down that road. I'm not overly concerned with originality, but will keep watch for an original replacement. I imagine that after a while I'll barely notice a "wrong" radiator in the ol' D24, as long as we can keep driving it.
  11. Silly question, perhaps, but I don't know. What is the 46-48 DeSoto grill made of? Chromed pot-metal, chromed steel, stainless steel? What they're made of comes into play for how well / poorly they age, and then potential availability / cost. I've seen many, but have never really looked close enough at one to tell.
  12. "Majestic" acceleration is my go to description...😎
  13. I can see what Worden18 is getting at, and there would indeed be resistance to slow that flywheel down. That would be provided by the FD oil. The FD unit does not work like a gyroscope or perpetual motion doodad. Yes, you could spin it up, which would take effort to overcome the viscosity of the FD oil, but as soon as you removed the torque it would bog down until it stopped, rather quickly. The engineers of old figured out just what viscosity was optimum for the desired effect. At some point, the impellers are spinning as fast as the engine, I have to assume the engineering was done with the unit to ensure it doesn't spin faster than input. The fluid drive unit only eliminates the mechanical connection between the engine and the clutch. It does not provide any additional energy. The advertisements, owners' manual, etc. extol the drivability virtues of the arrangement, although "power" isn't one of them. Interesting discussion here. All the paperwork says what it does and how but getting one's head around why it does it can be intriguing.
  14. This might simplify it. The fluid drive unit takes the place of the flywheel in a standard drive line. Everything else is the same, except the transmission in fluid drive cars has a longer input shaft. You can remove the fluid drive unit from the car, it is a bear to do. You can see in Bryan's photos how much room you don't have. You do have to remove the transmission and clutch first.
  15. I haven't checked in a long time, but there used to be templates for those hood seals in the technical section of this site.
  16. 26 - 32 ft lbs. This is per the service manual.
  17. First time I've ever heard of "potato era" styling...? Unfortunately, now I won't be able to un-hear that. I rather enjoy his videos despite the blips. Who else would do an informational piece on a potato?
  18. Chock the rear wheels, even if your parking brake is good. Use the center of the front cross member as a jacking point. Assuming you have a strong enough jack, (the car is not that heavy), you can raise the entire front end from there without having to move the jack to place jack stands or ramps. No science to it, but I don't like having the suspension hanging for too long, so I use ramps under the front tires if I'm working on the car for more than a day. More secure as well. You can put them down "backwards" for more maneuvering room from the side of the car, too. Put the ramps under the tires, then lower the jack. Pretty much the same drill when I use jack stands, I place them under the frame right about under the firewall, behind where the frame kicks up. The car will rock forward a bit (leverage) when you lower it but it's nice and solid.
  19. Corrosion and such in the charging system from the car sitting outdoors (especially over the winter) will do that too, and if the battery was hooked up while the car sat and the battery died, that doesn't help.
  20. Dan Hiebert


    Last time I bothered checking, which was quite a few years ago when we lived in a more urban environment, I got 16 MPG with the ol' D24. Not a lot of stop-and-go driving up here, with more open road (albeit not highway) cruising. I've noticed a tank o' gas seems to last a bit longer here but haven't checked MPG. I've had folks ask about MPG on a regular basis, seems to me they're looking for me to say something under 10 MPG, because they're always surprised when I tell them the 16 figure.
  21. Getting the wrong radiator back from the shop long ago is a unique twist on this saga, and apologies for the misguidance, that cross brace on the front of the support definitely cancels out my thoughts. I got a really high estimate to re-core my radiator, too. I looked for a replacement, but all the ones I found claimed to, or obviously, need re-coring, too. Anyway, "the Boss" wants an original looking radiator (the D24 is theoretically her car) and said, and I quote, "whatever it costs, just get it done." I know, right?
  22. Looks like your support bracket spread out. You'll need to evenly draw the top of the radiator support together, so the radiator easily bolts to it. That will be important to getting the fenders, hood, and grill to line up later as well, because the inner fenders bolt to that radiator support. There's another bracket between the inner fenders, ahead of the radiator, so the support doesn't do all the work keeping the fenders together. D24's have another piece riveted across the top of that support that keeps the support rigid. It's where the back of the nose piece attaches, but Dodges have the clamshell hood vs. the DeSoto's alligator hood.
  23. I haven't had issues with cooling at all. It's actually hard to get the car over 160 most days up here. I'm prone to say the water pump is "new" but have to remind myself it was about 30 years ago that I replaced it, just haven't had any issues at all with the cooling system (other than this recent leak). The generator was rebuilt about 25 years ago, no problems with that, but I'll pull it, check tolerances, and clean it up. I've already flushed the block, lots of brown water and some rust scale. Flowed clear water after about 5 minutes. I'm hesitant to pull the distribution tube, since that'll probably destroy it, and I haven't had any cooling problems in the first place. Of course, with my luck, all this TLC might make it decide it wants more attention. Roger that on new rubber components. They all still look good, but the 30 years old reminder is pinging. Still have to do a good clean-up on the front of the block, then paint as needed, and remark the balancer.
  24. We'll see. If it's gonna be a grand in these parts, I'll be surprised...and start looking for a replacement.
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