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Los_Control

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Everything posted by Los_Control

  1. Early in the project, we have great ideas. Sometimes we think going 1 way is good. While you may decide you really would like to go a different direction. You are not locked into any position.
  2. Is correct I fear. I say this because my Brother retired and built himself one of those fake log cabins in the woods. A real house but it has the 1/2 sawn logs for siding. During the covid they stopped working on it. He lives South of Seattle. The deal was using Sikkens with cetolD to protect the raw wood ... They were 1/2 way done and today the product is not available? They finished the job with something different. Today the product is not even available in Washington. Just saying it is not just car paint, but oils for wood also.
  3. I have some communication on the Tach somewhere, can not find it. He made a youtube video That showed and explained the workings of it. With it connected to a old flathead on a run stand. I only know to contact them through the H.A.M.B. or the Ford Barn through a personal message. I am guessing, iirc the kit was $100 or a little more. But does not include the tach. You can get a tach from autzone or spend a few $$ on a vintage refurbished tach ... your choice. Here is the condenser I bought from them ... I think is quality work.
  4. Not sure how it works on dwell, but a trick as a example for a timing light. Set a 12 volt battery near and connect the timing light power to 12 volt, the plug wire to your engine. There is a gentleman @Tubman That makes a kit to convert a 12 volt Tach to a 6 volt + ground. This means you supply your favorite 1960's tach and connect it with his kit ... If you wanted a tach in your car. Any 12 volt tach works. Which is kinda off topic for your question, because not a tool, but is a fully functional tach installed .... I guess you could just connect the wires and hold the tach i
  5. Discussing paint is like discussing which oil to run in your engine For @Wood and Steelpost ... I am curious what kind of paint is on the car? Is it original or a repaint. what kind of paint was used if a repaint? Single stage or 2 stage? Back in the day these cars were made, they were spraying enamel paint direct to metal with no primer ... how many years did it last? Not sure when the epoxy primers & sealers were introduced to the car market. In the 1950's 16 year old kids were using their mothers electrolux vacuum cleaner to paint cars in the driveway .... and
  6. The whole thing ended up in a mess. I accept Tony explanation of it in a video he just released yesterday . Tony job was to port the heads, he spent 6 hours doing this ... Then to assemble the heads and set up the new cam. the other clowns were to put the lower end together ... They were to supply all parts, engine, bearings,gaskets. I believe the block they had needed machine work so tony had to provide a block. They brought the wrong bearings for the crank they provided. And then later they talked crap about Tony. Which is having affect on Tony now, another media production is
  7. Sometimes I speak out of turn with little knowledge. I did suggest acid. And it will work to remove the surface rust in Minutes. Here is a photo of a experiment, a future project & the paint was solid brown surface rust just on the hood in this area. I had a squirt bottle with ospho in it, wetted the area walked to the shop and grabbed a clean rag and walked back & wiped it off. Took about 1 minute total time. You can see the film left on it. If this was bare metal would protect it from rust til washed off. When washed off you need to seal it with primer right away.
  8. I thought this was funny, would share. Been working on other projects get them out of the way to clear up time for iwoytd. I think I want to say today ...Because of my ability & not my dis-ability ... just kinda cruising around the shop doing nothing and did spend 10 min here & soak with soap then 10 min there & pressure wash the truck ... get it clean. Let it dry a few days before I work on it. Wife jumped my arse ... Why you working on the truck today instead let your legs recover? IWOTD is not for 6 days yet! I just got a laugh beca
  9. I am really surprised this year .... Maybe the new location ... maybe my activity in the area building the barn? The birds have not bothered my plants. My tomatoes are past flowering and fruit now ... Last year birds ate every flower off every plant. This little barn was a lot of work to me, but will be a great help while pretending to be a gardener. To move forward I need to finish paint, fence off the garden area to keep the dogs out. I will run water to it. Also electricity. I have way to many galvy panels left over. I will be adding compost bin
  10. 1 tons with a pickup bed are cool, they are 9' long & pretty rare. Most 1 ton that era were flat beds or commercial style dump or box or whatever. In a chance yours has a box & running boards to fit. They are rare as hens teeth. The wheel photo you showed was not a dually. Pretty sure the option for duals was available & then they had wider rear fenders on the rear. Family has a 9' pickup box 1 ton dualy International truck. I am sure all Ford, Dodge, Chebby offered this option. But guessing a single wheel 1 ton may most likely be a full fender 9
  11. That is a very common rear end to swap into these trucks, the width is good and a variety of gear choices .... same with the Jeep Cherokee rear ends. The front axle may be a bit of a challenge. to get the same 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern as the 8.8 What little I know about the 1/2 & 3/4 ton trucks, the 1/2 has 4.5" bolt pattern with 10" brake drums, the 3/4 is 5 on 5" bolt pattern with 11" brake drums. Then there are a few other items like wheel base, springs etc... Someone suggest it may be a 3/4 ton with those wheels and they may be right, I am guessing at le
  12. Really not much info there, need photos. The 6 lug could be a 49 chebby or a 1990 chebby, anything inbetween or a Dodge Dakota. I think some mazda trucks also used 6 lug along with Ford ranger. I had a 67 Datsun truck with 6 lug ... So 6 lug tells nothing. Pics of the interior, front grille would help tell the year of the body. I am now curious, did some of the 1 ton dodge trucks use 6 lug wheels? or were they all 5 lug like I suspect but not sure.
  13. After a lot of reading .... I hate to bring it up, I have a disability and sometimes all I can do for days or weeks is sit & read, watch videos. So I have a lot of book learning without actual real life experience. Reading a how to from a known Hot Rodder who in real life works in a modern day automotive electrical repair shop. Using this type of connector ... quality and thickness will vary depending on point of purchase. You can tin the wire, crimp it, then solder it, then shrink tube over it. You end up with a quality connection. This is how I am building my wir
  14. First step, I doubt you will find after market parts for a mopar of this year. While a 3:73 gear was not uncommon in the 50's Not sure about the 30's. Also have no ideas between the changes of a 1930's - 1950's rear end. There are some changes in the axle splines over the years ... gotta watch that. Then when you get preferred gear ratio .... The steering is loose and brakes do not grab. These cars were not built for modern speeds. If you want to go faster you may want to replace rear axle, front brakes and transmission? Instead of searching for a better "old ax
  15. @Plymouthy Adams you having fun ... Think first time I tried to make plug wires ... was a disaster . I was 17 years old and working on a 60's car .... I just bought pre-made wires after that. Years later I see the advantage to making our own wires. But again, if you not having fun doing it ... why bother?
  16. You have a honest good question. The answer is not clear. Typically people are using high dollar paint to restore these vehicles ... I am fine with that. There will be no talk about Rustoleum paint. I am personally in your corner, I am not going high dollar on paint. I am using Rustoleum paint from tractor supply. I am fine with it. I honestly feel the paint is as good or better when the cars were produced. ... Yes I know we have better paints today. But the original paint lasted a satisfactory time period for me ... yes the newer paint will last longer .... sorry to
  17. After looking at the side view one more time, I think the sides are where they should be. The middle should also sit proud. The hood actually sits proud of the cowl, the sides match the hood and middle is not where it should be. Possibly even the sides need to come up a bit more. When I add the hood sides and fender welting. Should the vent lid match the hood and not be flush with the cowl?
  18. I do not know if this will help any at all ... I will try to clarify my original opinion, while you may expect it to be a straightforward solution to this, do not be surprised it is a pia. In the photo, you can see there is a crown in the center as I suspected there was. While mine is pretty flush in the middle with the body, the ends are sitting proud of the body. Mine has never been removed and factory. Just my opinion, I think my ends are bent up & middle pulled down ... not much but just a little to make the ends sit proud. Same time they were not rea
  19. Unless you own a chebby. Usually they rust from the ground up, in Texas they rust from the top down. Is crazy my truck has a rust hole the size of a 1/2 dollar on the roof. Rest of truck is rust free. To weld in a patch I would need to remove the headliner, or expect sparks to catch existing headliner on fire. Just a spot I want to fix while doing some touch up painting, plan to glue in a patch. Wish you well with your knee & project @pflaming
  20. After reading your post ... thinking I may install this in my floor. I know the cowl vent is no easy task, why many Hot Rodders leaded them closed ... Some car manufacturer moved from top of cowl to side of cowl. By mid 1950's I do not think were any cowl vents on new cars available. I still like @Jeff Balazs idea to make one out of silicone .... possibly slice a new gasket in 1/2. apply silicone to the bottom side to raise gasket to needed height. This way when you open the vent it is the gasket you see? Not a easy one size fts all solution for this.
  21. Acid is your friend, you need to learn which to use & when.
  22. I am using acid, it sucks but it has allowed me to move forward with my project. I have found murriatic acid is boss, but it is tough. I use it only on items outside the garage in the back yard away from tools and trucks. Just the fumes 10' away will cause flash rust on tools or trucks. Ospho is good, I think in your case, it may be a wipe on wipe off issue. It will remove the new fresh surface rust, same time it turns old rust into a paintable primer. So it is easy to paint over. Also phosphoric acid is a good choice. I think this is my favorite. It will
  23. If that makes any sense, give it a year trial and add to it later ... we are not going anywhere.
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