knuckleharley

Congradulations! You had the good sense to find and buy one that seems to have nothing missing. You have no idea yet what an advantage that really is.

Northeastern NC. Rural area.

Then you are in luck! My personal experience is they ALWAYS want something.

It really isn't a problem IF you have the right puller,and a little patience. It's just more difficult than pulling the typical modern rear brake drum. BTW,I saw where you asked about lubing the axle end. No,you don't want to lube it,but you do want to inspect it carefully for dings,rust,and any other problems it might have before you put the drum back on. A LITTLE bit of polishing with an emery cloth if it is rough/pitted can be a big help when you go to pull it the next time. You are NOT looking for a "chrome-like" finish. You are looking for smooth with no burrs. Sam

THAT is the sort of thing that makes this board so special. I have seen offers like this,as well as free parts offered to other Mopar fans on this board fairly often,and I have NEVER seen it on any other antique auto board. Not even once. Good on you,Merle! If you ever happen to be within 200 miles of where I live and have some sort of mechanical problem,send me a PM. I check the board every day.

I think he either got the message garbled,or his mechanic has never seen or worked on cars with tapered rear axles and drums held in place by the taper.

He didn't say it was while braking,and it SEEMED to me he was saying it pulls to the side all the time. Which is usually a bent tie rod or some other steering part gone wrong. Yeah,it IS a result of bad alignment,but the bad alignment is caused by the damaged or worn parts.

I'm with kencombs. Find a mechanic that is familiar with these tapered axle drum and their removal. No big deal IF you have the proper puller AND the patience to allow pressure to do it's work,AND you loosen the nuts and pins (been so long I have forgotten the exact setup) on the rear backing plate,and then put pressure on your puller and smack the sides of the drums smartly all the way around. Remember,it is VIBRATIONS that break the rust/dirt/crud seal,NOT brute force. Chances are the rear drums are not going to come of easily,or even on the same day you start,but with press

Damn,but that's a pretty one. Chanes are a front end alignment will take care of the "pulling problem",but IF the problem is related to some part of the steering sector being damaged or worn out,you need to replace that part NOW. This would be MY number 1 priority if I were you. Number two would be getting the entire brake system rebuilt. Safety is everything,including economincal.

Learn something new every day. Thanks!

I just checked the listed 6 volt pumps in the Summit Racing online catalogue and didn't see the Airtex listed,but I did see this one. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gmb-599-1380 Brand: GMB North America Manufacturer's Part Number: 599-1380 Part Type: Fuel Pumps Summit Racing Part Number: GMB-599-1380 UPC: 083286195233 GMB North America 599-1380 View All Media $24.99

I don't know if I can recommend them or not beause they are the only brand of aftermarket electric fuel pumps I have ever used,but I bought 2 from Summit Racing for my two 51 Fords,and believe I paid 36 bucks each for them. Being more than a little anal and a little paranoid,I also bought in-line adjustable fuel pressure regulators even though the fuel pumps only pump MAYBE 6 PSI at peak pumping. I just like to KNOW what is going on. Summit Racing can give you more info on them. They are standard items there,so should be easy to find. The fuel pressure gauge

No need to be that tough! JC Whitney still sells seat covers. You could buy a nice pair with the zebra design to spiff it up a little.

I use Indian Head,too. Same reason. I am a big believer in the theory that says "If it ain't broke,don't fix it."

Am I the only one that hears a faint cry of "Keith,Keith! Please rescue me and take me home,Keith!"?