martybose

It sounds like the flasher is using the parking lights for a ground path. Check to make sure all of the turn signal sokets have good grounds. Marty

I would caution you to keep an eye on things like your dimmer switch. When I first installed 6V halogens a few decades ago I found the the oem bulbs were 30W, and the halogens were 60W, and both the headlight switch and the dimmer switch both started getting hot when the headlights were on. I eventually installed a 6V headlight relay to carry the load so that the headlight switch and the dimmer switch were only controlliing the headlight relay instead of carrying the total load. Marty

While your description is good, in the case of an R10 OD it is wrong. The R10 moves the speedometer pickup to the tailshaft of the OD unit, so it is reading the propshaft speed, which stays the same regardless of the engagement of the OD function. That said, it i probably easier to get an inline speedometer gearbox to correct any error that exists with the final drive ratio/tire size issue. Most speedometer shops can supply them with any gear ratio that you need, just tell them how the speedometer reading and a GPS speed compare. Marty

Mine certainly was fixed. It was working perfectly when I sold the car, it was still working perfectly when the car was resold to another buyer. I have lost track of the car now, wish I knew how it is doing. Marty

My 230 motor, with 9 to 1 compression, forged pistons, Edmunds head and intake, cast iron headers, etc. was very finicky even on 91 octane gas. It was difficult to get an advance curve that would work at all RPM's. I think I went a little too far with it.

The valve clearance issue is especially important with aftermarket heads. With mine the valve would close the sparkplug gap on long reach plugs, had to use washers on the plugs to make them work.

Over two decades ago I worked with Rhode Island on a new harness setup on my car. The were willing to make any modifications, so I did things like upping the gauge of all the headlight wires for modern halogens, deleting the voltage regulator wiring due to the single wire alternator, adding turn signal wiring and stop light wiring to the back lights., and much more. There has never been any repairs needed, and it was still 100% when I sold it.

When the head gasket blew out in my original motor I found that almost a quarter of the bolts could be removed without a tool; I've no idea how the gasket lasted as long as it did. Since then I would always torque them initially, then every week or so I would see what happened when I retorqued them. It actually took three retorqings before it reached the point where none of the bolts moved. Then I stopped worrying about it.

I guess no one caught the fact that the illustrated procedure shows one of the valves (#2 intake to be exact) being adjusted in both positions? That won't work well!

Like most simplified adjustment procedures, this one has errors. If you go through the steps listed, you will adjust the intake valves on #2 and #5 twice, and one of them will be wrong.

I had a computer crash that destroyed all of my logins and passwords. I eventually got my original account working again here, but now with display ads. I've been here since 2006, and when we changed to this forum provider we had to do something to stop the ads, and I'll be damned if I can remember what. I tried to find out the right way, put a query in the Support forum a month ago, no response. Not surprising, since the only other entry was for 2015. So I tried messaging our admin, also no response. So does anyone remember what we had to do to eliminate the ads? I'm really not interested in wedding dresses or such tomfoolery.

The Hurricane I-6 pictured is supposed to put out over 300 horsepower in stock form. It would be an interesting setup if the installation wasn't such a nightmare with the electronics.

The purpose of the ignition interruption is simply to take the load off of the gears momentarily to allow the shift to occur. My car was already 12V when I installed my OD setup, and I made up my own electrical setup using 12V components. For whatever reason I was never able to make my electronic ignition system perform an interrupt the way the stock ignition could, so I just deleted that part of the circuit. With a manual switch on the shift lever I could initiate a shift in either direction and just momentarily lift off of the throttle, and it would shift immediately. You just had to remember that if you were shifting from OD to direct the engine had to speed up as you came back on the throttle before it engaged. This is simply a function of the OD unit because if it is engaged (mechanical cable pulled out) but not activated (generally because the low driveline speed hasn't activated the governor) the engine will freewheel any time you lift off of the throttle. The engine will drop to idle speed instantly, and there will be no engine braking while slowing down. It is also the reason why you should never leave the OD unit mechanically engaged when you park, because if the parking brake doesn't hold it won't matter if the car is in gear, because the OD will freewheel as you roll down the hill.

The transmission that you need to put an R10 in your car is a complete 3 speed with overdrive transmission out of a later Mopar. You have to get the entire transmission because the main transmission casing is modified for the OD application. You can't just bolt any old R10 OD unit to your stock transmission. If you get the correct transmission it will bolt in place of your stock 3 speed tranny and will use the same length driveshaft. You have to reroute the speedometer cable (or get a longer one), since it is farther back and on the opposite side of the transmission with an OD. And you will need a long cable for the mechanical lockout. The Mopar version of the R10 is unique in a number of ways. First off, the tailshaft is unique because it has the emergency brake as part of it. Secondly, only the Mopar application has the governor and relay in the transmission. They are part of the electrical mechanism that controls when it engages and disengages. There are internal parts that are unique, and even some experienced transmission shops are not aware of the Mopar differences. There's a whole back story about the transmission shop that rebuilt my OD unit and what they didn't understand about the Mopar implementation! Once you get it working they are a hoot. I found that around town I could just leave the car in 2nd gear with the OD engaged. You'd get up to a certain speed, lift off the throttle a little, and the OD would engage. Slowdown a few MPH and lift off the throttle and the OD would disengage. Fund driving.

Almost any old-fashioned speedometer shop can get you a small gearbox that you screw into the transmission and then screw the speedometer cable into. They have a large number of gear ratios available to correct the speedo readings.

Marcel, You currently have three different threads running for your oil pump issue. For future reference, it is not a good idea, as the threads will get separated over time, and anyone who reads one of them will be missing a fair amount of useful background. They should have been in a single thread.

Your symptoms sound to like what would happen if you accidentally used a 12V solenoid, as 6V (or 7.2V) wouldn't be enough to fully engage.

Yes, that's it. I have the second one from the left.

You can't buy the really good fire extinguishers any more, they were outlawed because of global warning issues. But I bought an Amerex Halotron extinguisher. It leaves no residue, puts out flames almost instantly (though you do have to keep an eye on it for a while so that the heat of the burning material doesn't reignite). Is it expensive? Hell yes! Is it worth the price? Well, what would it cost you to repair your ride if you didn't put the fire out right away! Money well spent.

Back when I was doing this ARP had a portion of their website that listed the specs of all of their studs, but I just tried to find it and it doesn't seem to be there any more. You had to call their technical support phone number to order them anyway.

You're visualizing it wrong. With the head on I put a washer, the spacer bridge, then another washer and the nut on top. The spacer was a very thick wall steel, maybe 1/4" thick, so there was no problem with torquing that nut on top of the spacer. Don't forget that because the top of the studs are fine thread, you don't torque them as tight as bolts. If memory serves the OEM bolts are 75 lb/ft, while the stud nuts are only 55.

ARP doesn't have a kit for our flatheads, you have to order the studs, washers and nuts individually. So when I ordered mine I ordered two of the studs one inch longer, then made a bridge between two studs to mount the throttle linkage pivot on. I used a pair of spacers of the right ID and 3/4" long, and welded a steel strap to the top of them in adjacent stud locations, then put the pivot on the strap.

Just out of curiosity, are oversize lifters even available now?

I'll be the naysayer on this one. Even though my car was converted to 12V eons ago, I stayed with the vacuum wiper. Had the vacuum motor rebuilt, and installed a good size vacuum reservoir with a check valve. Rarely drove it in the rain, but the few times I did the wipers worked just fine. Marty

My 47 spent a couple of months with the nose of the car jacked up real high so that I could get the steering box out to have it rebuilt. When I got it back I reinstalled it, let the car down and went for a drive. What I didn't notice is that a lot of the oil from the OD section had drained out through a bad tailshaft seal. I made it about a minute in overdrive before there was a load bang and the car started jerking badly. I stopped the car, locked out the OD by pulling the cable, and drove home. Found a place that could fix it, cost me over $1000. Le$$on learned. Marty PS Even with the OD blown up I had no problem engaging reverse.