Kilgore47
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Kilgore47 last won the day on March 1 2025
Kilgore47 had the most liked content!
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280 ExcellentProfile Information
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Location
East Texas
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My Project Cars
1947 Plymouth 2 door. 1950 Plymouth 4 door. 1985 Jeep CJ7
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Location
Kilgore, Texas
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Interests
Cars
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Occupation
Retired
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Turned out I could use the drill to run the transmission to get the air out. The first try I made an amateur mistake. When I sat the trans on the work bench it sat on the parking brake lever and that kept everything from turning. Moved the trans to the edge of the bench to miss the parking brake lever and it worked fine. Also found out that the expensive trans oil with the manufacturers name on it is just 20/50 motor oil. I considered adding a reservoir but I would have had to pull the left trans and do the same to it. I needed to mow so I just put it back together and went to work.
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Last time I was mowing a seal blew out on the right hydrostatic transmission. The seal is super easy to get to and replace. Just pull the wheel off and there it is. But - You have to drop the transmission to get to the fill hole to juice it back up. The fun part is that you have to run it for a while to work the air out. So I installed it and ran it for a while. Made lots of noise because of the air. The nicer models have reservoirs under the seat. Pick up the seat and top it off. Mine is a base model. Tomorrow I'll take the unit back out and top it off. Only had to un bolt it two times while installing it to learn the installation sequence. The lift made it much easier on this old guy. I tried using the drill to spin it and work the air out but that didn't work. Guess it didn't spin it fast enough. It's not that hard to remove. Six bolts and a few pins for the levers. And remove and replace and remove and replace and ----------
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I see that you checked the exhaust for plugs by removing it from the manifold. This is a long shot but is it possible that the intake manifold is plugged. I suppose you could check it with a bore scope. I have seen dirt dobers build nests in all sorts of places. Or hold your hand over the carb while cranking to check for consistent flow. Or remove the coil wire and hold your hand over the exhaust while cranking to check for flow. It may be time for the starting fluid check. You could remove the plugs again and add a little oil in each cylinder - roll it over a little to disburse the oil - Then close it back and shoot a little juice to it.
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Yesterday I started the rebuild on an old quadra bog. I've probably rebuilt a hundred qudra jets. Tiny primaries and huge secondaries. In theory you could get good milage on the highway if you could keep your foot out of it. I was never very good at that. Loved the sound of those huge barrels. Sounded like it was trying to suck the hood through the engine when you put the foot feed to the floor. Especially if you flipped the top of the air cleaner. This is for one of our car group. I tell them it cost a corn dog and a cup of coffee at the next car meet.
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Yep - the shop is more comfortable than the main house on these 100 degree afternoons. The new shop is well insulated and the 100 year old house not so much. I was able to rebuild a carb for a friend yesterday and not break a sweat.
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I built a new shop earlier this year and I have been enjoying it. But it got hot and it's not as much fun as it was. So I fixed it. I ordered a mini split system with two heads. One for the shop and one for the garage. The main condenser is three tons with one and a half ton heads in each room. The local HVAC company I have been using wanted over 12 thousand for the equipment. Plus installation. Woops - no AC for me. So I went on line and found the same equipment for about half that price with free shipping. Some local companies don't like to install equipment that they don't furnish. This local AC company was OK with me furnishing the equipment. You need to use a professional installer or the warranty is void. The installation cost more than a new Pinto in 1972. The AC guys came out last Thursday and got everything installed. It was a hot day and those guys were tired and frustrated by that time. They couldn't get it to work. From the symptoms it sounded like they didn't open all the valves. I tried to tell them but how could I know what I'm talking about. I'm just a dumb old gray guy paying them the price of a Pinto to install it. They finally left telling me the boards were bad. The next day they sent another guy out and he told me the same thing - the boards are bad. So I called the people I got the equipment from. Great customer service. Actual people answered the call. They walked me through a trouble shooting process. Checked the wiring connections. Told him the codes the board was showing. Then we got to the valves. Open - Open - Open - Open - Closed - Closed. The high pressure lines to the heads had not been opened. When I opened them everything started working great. Even the bad boards fixed then selves!!!!! It blows my mind that two professional AC installers would miss that even after being told multiple times that they should check the valves. Was this a scam? Problem is that this AC company has a really good reputation. If it was a scam they probably would have avoided my call to complain today. The receptionist took my number and I got a call back in a few minutes. So I'm 50/50 weather I would use them again. The company I got the equipment from - I would definitely use them again. Good prices and great customer service. The equipment got here in five days and there was no damage and no missing parts.
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rear axle seals and bearing replaced on my '47 Plymouth
Kilgore47 replied to sjaakslinger's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I always bring this up when people are working on the rear end. Check the vent and make sure it's clear. If it's plugged it will force the grease through the new seals and onto your new brakes when it heats up. I found this out the hard way when I had to replace the new brakes I had installed a month earlier. -
I see what you did there
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In my happy place. Working on an old car. This car has two carbs so it's twice the fun. They look good. Alshere59 did a good job cleaning them. Should have it back together in a couple of hours. Next I need to adjust the clutch. The lift will make that much easier. More news later
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Finished setting up the lift last night. Just put the 50 on it a few minutes ago. Still need to move the tools to this shop. More news later
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They do come apart. I had to use a Dremel to cut the ring that holds the amber lense in place. The back is metal with a gasket and clamp holding the lense in place. The bulb is soldered in. It's easy to de solder and remove. Carful with how much heat you use. I damaged the mirror finish on the first one I tried. Don't know where the fog light bulb is - I'm moving to the new shop and it's packed away somewhere. I have some extra replacement bulbs I could send to you if you can't find them. The bulbs I have are 32 CP intended as head lights but they can be modified to use in a fog light if you want to keep your original lense. New fog light bulbs are available but the ones I have are stamped with Mopar and I wanted to keep that.
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I found this original 1950 manual on line and it was reasonably priced so I got it. The pages are yellow but it looks like all the pages are there. These brake diagrams may help.
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The doors are installed and the heat is hooked up. Tomorrow I plan to install the lift. We were going to install it last Wednesday but it didn't get above freezing that day so I put it off till tomorrow. This will be my last entry to this post. When the 50 that I got from Alshere59 on the lift I will start another post about working on that car. More news latter on another post.
