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DonaldSmith

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DonaldSmith last won the day on June 23 2018

DonaldSmith had the most liked content!

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About DonaldSmith

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 08/24/1942

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Berkley, MI
  • Interests
    47 DeSoto Suburban
  • My Project Cars
    1947 DeSoto Custom Suburban

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Technical detail sort of guy, nuts and bolts
  • Occupation
    Retired architect and specifications writer

Converted

  • Location
    Berkley, MI 47 DeSoto Suburban
  • Interests
    Fixing and improving things around the house

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  1. The step-up piston, on the left of Kennyc35's photo, has some function at speed. James Douglas stated some time ago that ethanol in the gas can corrode this piston, inhibiting its function. I found that this piston in my carburetor has some corrosion. Every few years I take the top off the carburetor and make sure that this piston is free. I don't know if this is contributing to the problem at hand.
  2. 139.5" wheelbase. 225.3" length. It just fits in my garage. 3,974 lb. curb weight. The long wheelbase sedans were 18 inches longer than the regular sedans. The doors were 9 inches longer. I believe that the front door is the same as in a two-door sedan. The top edge begins to drop down. The back doors, unique to the long-wheelbase sedans, are curved to match. The trunk lid is a bit heavy to heft. The wood-grain Bakelite liner adds some weight. (By the way, Bakelite is not Bake plus light, it's named after a guy named Bakel, who developed this p
  3. The post-war DeSoto Suburban had the trunk open to the cabin, so there was no space for the usual big springs that counterbalance the lid. So, struts were used. Open the lid and the struts click locked. Raise the lid some more, and the locks retract. That's the way they are supposed to work. Sometimes one strut will lock and the other won't. Raise the lid to release the one strut and the other one locks. It takes some artful twisting of the lid to counteract this and get both struts in sinc. I've been tempted to use gas struts instead of the mechanical ones. To-do list.
  4. The horn wire goes through the steering shaft and exits at the bottom of the steering gear box, where the wire connects to the wire going to the horn relay. Disconnect the wires to check the grounding circuit in the steering shaft and the relay circuit the powers the horns. This should show which part of the circuit has the problem Get a test light with long leads. Connect one lead to a power source, and the other lead to the wire from the gearbox. With the light visible in the cabin, you can fiddle with the horn ring assembly and see what lights the light. To test
  5. I don't know what parts would be called an actuator or a switch. The whole assembly acts as the switch. I don't know what the parts diagrams call these parts. Here's my horn ring, for a '47 DeSoto. The design would be somewhat different from the other Chrysler products, but the same principle. (Cars with horn buttons would work completely differently.) In the center, one can see the end of the horn wire and the brass thingie that spans across the spring. This thingie bolts to the plastic wheel, and is insulated from ground. Covering the thingie
  6. Short course on how the horn ring works. (The whole assembly is the switch.) The tee-shaped thing holds the end of the grounding wire for the horn relay. The spring is grounded. Without the horn ring in place, the horn would honk constantly. The horn ring is not grounded. It has tangs that push the spring away from the tee thing. In place and undisturbed, the horn ring keeps the horn from honking. Push the horn ring, and one or more tangs will pull away from the spring, allowing the spring to ground the tee thing. Experiment: Ground th
  7. Here's a slightly better photo of where the vacuum port is: The vacuum gauge hose goes in place of the short hose with the end plug.
  8. Here is my setup, for the nefarious vacuum gauge and for the PCV system: (The port is on the intake manifold, just below the carburetor.)
  9. My vacuum gauge is somewhat permanently attached to the cowl with magnets, between the hood hinge and the heater hoses. That leads me to a naughty trick at car shows. I'll look under the hood of my car like a stranger gawking at the engine. Reaching for the vacuum gauge, I'll say, "What's this?" and dislodge the vacuum gauge. Juggling the gauge in my hands, I'll act flustered. Then I'll tell the onlookers that it was OK, I'm the owner of the car. I know, I'm bad.
  10. A car with a vinyl coating like that car would be less likely to be stolen. You could have a lush interior, and all sorts of luxury features, and still be able to park it in a bad neighborhood.
  11. Australia is upside down from us. If you turn the car upside down, the brake booster will be on the left side. Makes sense?
  12. The horn ring is counterintuitive (it doesn't work like you would think). I went through this some time ago with my DeSoto horn ring. (Some ambitious and savvy person could look this up.) The gizmo, in this case the "Y" shaped bridge that holds the spring in place, is isolated from ground. The horn wire attaches to the middle of the gizmo. The spring is grounded. As pictured without the horn ring, the gizmo would be grounded by the spring, completing the ground circuit to the horn relay. Constant Honk! The horn ring is isolated, and in normal positio
  13. Confirming the coil wiring for a 47 DeSoto with the semi-automatic transmission. Coil Negative post: (Hot side) Red wire from "coil" post of ignition switch, and green wire to "Bat" terminal of the transmission relay. Coil Positive post: (Positive Ground system) Black wire to "PRI" post of transmission relay, and black wire to distributor. So, the negative post takes power from the ignition switch and provides power to the transmission relay. The positive post takes the timed grounding from the distributor to energize the coil, and the other wire grounds t
  14. Here's the heater valve on my '47 DeSoto: The bellcrank pulls the valve open as the knob is pulled. The two little holes in the bellcrank assembly correspond to the two little holes in the body of the valve.
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