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Easter Sunday 2024: Finally had the opportunity to recreate a photo here in downtown Winona; East 3rd and Main St. Traffic was super light where normally it would be impossible to stop and pose the Meadowbrook for a shot. The beautiful buildings on the left were demolished in the 70s in favor of the mini mall. The foreground buildings on the right were demolished to make a parking lot. I put on a new fuel pump and hard line yesterday. Meadowbrook is back in business. Happy Easter everyone! 🙂

We went for a US car show here in Germany today. They awarded 5 trophies, Best of Show, Rat Rod, Modern Car, Longest Distance and Oldie but Goldie. There were a lot of awesome cars here, 59 Cadillacs, 50ies Corvettes, Chargers, Cudas, Mustangs, Lincolns... but hey, the ol‘ Dodge made it !

Okay, all it needed was a longer magnet with a DIY self-straightening WD-40 spray can rod. It was at the very far end of the cylinder 😱😅

I spotted this B1FA whilst I was procuring a “new idea” sickle mower this past weekend. the look on Julie’s face (“oh crap”) when she saw me spot it, was priceless 😂

Just installed a Red Crown Gasoline light in our carport to go with the truck. I am pretty happy with the results.

after not having ice harvest day in 2024, we were back at it today. good clear 18" ice, blocks were 300 to 325 lbs each. pretty mild day, high 20s (after about 8" of snow overnight). filled the ice house, too, so a successful day. 25 blocks on this load. ended up getting a second load of 20 blocks to fill the ice house. (the first load was roughly 8,125 lbs of cargo...)

Hi all, some months ago I picked the brains of this Forum for my stock 1948 Dodge D25, and can now report on the results. The car now has Moog CC850 coils in the front and the rear leaves reset by a local guy here in Oz, and I couldn't be happier! The CC850's appear to give what I would regard as a 'standard ride height' from back in the day, and the transformation in the car's ride and particularly steering (due to less roll at the front) is far better than I'd hoped for (the car has standard 15 x 4.5" rims and 6.70 cross plies). For anyone running a similar 'stocker' I can definitely confirm that you will have a 'standard' look-no need to cut down the coil unless you want to lower-that does not sit too high, and drives beautifully. Thanks for the great advice from the Forum! Cheers, Nigel Bailey

Finished setting up the lift last night. Just put the 50 on it a few minutes ago. Still need to move the tools to this shop. More news later

I went and did it again. I FINALLY started to realize that maybe I should "thin the herd" - and I was actually doing it. I sold a couple of old cars and my motorcycle and I was trying to convince myself that I felt good about it. I was actually starting to believe that - BUT THEN IT HAPPENED - AGAIN!!!!! I was innocently browsing Facebook Marketplace (mistake #1) and for some reason I opened an ad for an antique car which I had ZERO interest in - NONE But as I was scrolling through the pictures in the ad (mistake #2) I noticed a car in the background of 2 of the pictures. Of course, I HAD to message the person running the ad asking if he'd be interested in selling the car in the background (mistake #3) I got a reply in a few minutes saying "Yes, he'd sell it, and when would I like to come see it. I immediately replied that the next morning would be a good time to go look at the car (mistake #4) The next morning I go look at the car (mistake #5) and now as they say - "The rest is history" It's a 1949 Chrysler Woody - 1 of 850 made. Picture after a little cleaning

I met Arthur one time about 7 or 8 years ago. He had a 55 plymouth front bumper he wanted $150 for. He was in Coinjock, N.C. and I live about 40 miles away, so I went to his place to check it out. He had a whole lot full of cars and trucks plus a quanset hut full of cars. One was a 32 ford coupe with a Hemi in it. Anyway, I had to take the bumper off the car so he got me a piece of card board and some tools. He was in pretty bad shape. He was bent over, limped, and generally in rough shape. After I got the bumper off, I said "You'll take a check, right", and he said "hell no, I told you cash", which he had. I started laughing and handed him $150 and he started to laugh. I stayed another hour or so with him listening to his biker and Viet Nam stories. He was quiet a character and I wish I could have gotten to know him better.

As a follow up here.... After taking my time and being meticulous in double checking my work. I'm happy to report the engine fired off and settled into a melodic rumble with no fanfare. Minute leaks at the waterpump bypass and fuel pump were quickly handled. After stationary break in was completed, a short test drive shows promise.

Finally got some more welding done. Enough to allow a test fit on the motor. Everything seems to fit with no clearance issues. I was concerned about the firewall but it clears it.

I got the GPS installed today

It took awhile 50 years to be exact but my dream has finally been realized , fat fenders and running boards !! All went well, sales transaction, (private party) title transfer and registration with the 1934 vintage stamped from copper license plate, any way I am very impressed with a few things 1. how quickly and easily it fires up , I was a bit skeptical of the 6 volt system 2. how well it rides and steers even with the bias ply tires. 3. how smoothly and quietly that flat head runs, it actually rides better and quieter than my 56 Olds. I named her Fannie Mae . If your from the Midwest and love chocolate you may recognize Fannie Mae as the big chocolate company from Chicago. she reminds me of a big box of assorted chocolates and caramels , this color combo may not be everybody's cup of tea but it works for me and turns a few heads. I've heard some people say it doesn't show up on Plymouth color charts some say it is a factory color carrotine # 4 I think also referred to as the burnt cars ? I'm sure you here would know better than me I'm a pre-war Plym newbie !! I'm learning more daily and as I dive in hope to learn more, I'm not sure what's 100% original to the car and what's not (I'm not a stickler for that) I hope to lean on you guys as I try to learn. here's a few pic's of Fannie.

Thank you Tod for locking. Just to clarify the reason for no political/religion threads is because inevitable someone gets pissed off and it turns ugly. I have seen other forums destroyed by this behavior going rampant. Unfortunately "if people act as adults" is not a given based on my experience. 😒 Robert, the idea is P15-D24 is a safe haven from the the many "outside forces" that can distract us from the primary objective, keeping our mopars on the road!

This is a factory option turn signal indicator bezel which I've had sitting around for many years. I recently got it fitted when my car was re-wired and I'm really pleased with it. Video here: IMG_0451.mov

Spring arrived this week. I saw enough vintage cars and motorcycles on the road to stir-up some nostalgia. I removed the car cover and rolled out my ‘38 Chrysler today. It flashed up and ran like a hot engine that was just tuned-up yesterday. I didn’t do a thing other than check the oil and hit the electric fuel priming pump. I love a well maintained flathead engine. While warming it up the pup wanted in on the action. We went around the neighbourhood a couple times. I will drain the oil now and put in a fresh jug of 10W40. How’s 2024 shaping up in your Mopar neighbourhood? -59,331 miles.

Got the wagon done and have been putting some miles on it. The wagon is a fun old ride and gets more attention than my 50.

My 49 has only 38,000 miles and steers pretty good without much wandering and I'd like to keep it that way. I have added oil to it and have determined that the seal leaks. Not unexpected for a 75 year old car. One of the benefits of the KT Keller era of cars is that they use a lot of off the shelf bearings and seals. My NAPA store found the seal CR Seals/SKF ( formerly known as Chicago Rawhide ) #12350 or MoPar 639-837 To get to the seal you pull off the pitman arm and I did this with a cheap Harbor Freight puller. It's a spline so all you have to over come is dirt and rust. The generator can be pushed out of the way to withdraw the sector and cap out of the top. As usual there's two ways to do everything of course and I tend to get it right after trying every other possible way. The top cover doesn't come off the sector until you back off the adjustment screw. My M.O. is to get the sector and the attached cover to the bench and then count the turns of the adjustment screw until they part company. I used 5 turns because it was easy to remember. The idea being if you put it back the way the factory had it, you have a better starting point than if you are guessing. ( especially with the steering gear in the car ) The next thing to do is to check the tapered bearings on the steering shaft. The manual says to push/pull on the steering wheel to detect any slop. I could feel a tiny amount so I took the bottom cover off the gear housing. As luck would have it one of the shim/gaskets popped up while the rest stayed put. The factory put a dimple in the frame to enable you to move the cover down a little but you can't take it off without unbolting the gear from the frame. So I snipped the gasket and bolted the cover back on. The up & down movement of the steering wheel was 2/3 less and the turning effort had not increased. All good signs and time to stop. The shim/gaskets are made in several thicknesses and this was a thin one. In my humble opinion, this is the most important adjustment because even a little up & down slop here moves the sector a lot. You can change the sector engagement with the worm till it's so tight you can hardly turn the steering wheel and the sector will still move if the bearings are not right. Now the problem becomes finding another gasket for the top cover. AMSNOS.com had MoPar 1142-262 for around $8 and when I called they had 15 in stock. ( 706 ) 337-4606 The plan is to put the top cover on the sector, turn the adjustment screw 5 turns and slip it back together with the new gasket. Since I detected no wear on any of the parts it should be very close to okie dokie and it won't leak.

I went to a local AACA clubs spring swap meet this morning. At the second building that I stopped at a gentleman had a set of Senior Trippe Safety Driving lights. I examined them and they were complete even had the correct Trippe mounting brackets and the level in the top of the bucket and the original wire and the original Trippe black tipped bulbs. Came home and polished the buckets and then hooked them up to my 6 volt battery charger and the bulbs even lit up, no cracks in the lens. As many of you might know these Trippe lights are not cheap, the price ranges from 1600-2200 for a set in perfect condition. OK, no i did not even pay close to that amount. I asked the seller what he wanted for them and I was thinking at least $1000+. He came back with a price of yes $100. You never saw any one ever get their wallet out and pay the seller. I basically stoles these from him and I asked him if that was his price and he said yes. Also at the same time he had a box of the Autolite BullNose 6v sealed headlight bulbs in a box. There were six in the box. Asked what he was getting for the bulbs he said $20, I then asked each, he said for all six, so another $20 was spent. Got home and tested these and they all work. There is some rust on the edges and on the back but this can be removed and repaint the back a gray color. As you also know MoParpro sells these same light autolite bullseye for over $200 each. So not a bad day of looking for parts. I attached the picture of the Trippe Lights. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here is another small thing to brag about: I installed a leather cover onto the steering wheel The original objective was to protect the old plastic. It is still in very good condition (only minor cracks) but the perimeter is obviously worn. I wanted to cover the whole wheel (including spokes and horn button) with thin ivory leather. My wheel is brown, but I like the ivory color instead. However, I've quickly realized that I have no idea where to get the proper matching color leather, etc., to do this right. So I decided to experiment with just the universal cover strip, first. Bought this one. Size XL1, according to the provided chart. The leather is soft and stretchy, but way more thicker than I expected. The color turned-out to be not quite as I expected either, and the original holes were too far apart. I was planning to do a hidden seam, first, but with this kind of leather it was not technically feasible so I did a cross stitch instead. I punched more holes, trimmed the sides, and put it on. The stitching took a very long time. I am not sure whether or not I like it, at this point, but given the amount of time spent, I am definitely keeping it for a while 😂

I managed to finally find time today to install the rear fenders. Overall the job wasn't all that difficult. Biggest issue was the lower front bolt on each fender. It took a little bit of pushing and pulling along with a few choice words to get the holes lined up but I prevailed in the end This is the first time since 1996 that I've seen this truck with all it's sheet metal in place. Once the fenders were on it was finally time to take it for it's first real test drive so I drove 4 miles to the gas station and 4 miles back. Guess what, it drives like an old truck 😄 It became obvious pretty quick that the speedometer was not accurate. I had my phone GPS open so I could see how fast I was going and where the speedometer read 30 mph, I was actually going about 45 mpg. Not sure how I'll deal with this just yet, but I know I don't want to leave it that way. I think I hit the top speed of 47 mph. I didn't want to push it because the 29 year old tires are hard as rocks and I haven't really set the toe-in yet other than an eyeball setting when I was installing the steering components. Once I got back and parked it in the shop I found two leaks. I have a glass bowl filter right off the gas tank that feeds the electric pump and it was dripping gas. I tightened the bowl retainer nut a little and that seems to have resolved that problem. The other issue was the brake master cylinder had brake fluid all over it and it was dripping on the floor. It did not appear to be coming from any of the fittings. It's possible I had over filled it. I'll look at it again tomorrow and monitor it to make sure there isn't something I'm missing. Other than the ABS headliner and rear window surround panel the truck is pretty much done. There are a bunch of minor details I still need to take care of but, assuming the brakes are ok I think it's a driver now

I bought Alshere59's 1950 Plymouth. He gave me a super deal. Won't be able to start working on it for about two months. The shop I'm renting has asked me to move out by the end of the year. So I decided to build a shop and it will be about two months before it's done. Probably shouldn't be spending this much money but I'm old and I need a place to work on stuff and not worry about the owner changing their mind. The new shop is not going to be big or fancy. But it will be big enough to work on one car at a time and have a lift. I shouldn't be starting another project but I'm too stubborn to stop working on stuff yet. This is a perfect project for me. The mechanicals are good. All I have to do is paint it and then put it back together. I think I can do all that. It may need a few adjustments here and there also. This is a picture of the dirt work and the day the car got here. Had the car transported from Ohio to Texas. That's a story for another time. More news latter.

The construction is done. Took three months. They did a great job as usual. Now I go to work. Hang stuff on the walls - install the lift - add the air piping - - -. That door does not seal good. I may consider a different door latter.

I'm happy to say the truck now has a bed I think all told, it took about 3 hours to get it picked up, and fitted onto the truck and another couple hours fiddling with the mounting hardware. Out of the six bed mounting bolts I had trouble with two of them. The front two on the passenger side had a problem with the repro channels being twisted so that the bottom holes on the channels were 1/2 the diameter of the bolt towards the rear on the bottom holes. It probably took me an hour to get those two bolts in and aligned properly. Once they were in I snugged the bolts down. I don't know what torque setting I should use so I need to look into that before the final tightening. Without the tailgate the bed weighed in at 257 lbs. Lighter than I was expecting, but after thinking about it, there's not a whole lot of heavy structural metal in the bed. The two heaviest pieces are the sides. The rest is just formed sheet metal pieces. We have wintry weather coming tonight so I took the truck out to get some decent pictures. It will be the last time it sees the sun until I get the rear fenders installed, wiring done in the rear, and the ABS interior panels installed. Getting the bed mounted on the truck let me breath a sigh of relief. It's only taken 29 years to get to this point 😮 Even better is I now have more room in my shop 😄

Some of you may have seen my thread on my sticking throttle on the original ball and ball carburetor on my 38 plymouth. I had rebuilt that carburetor so many times over the last 25 years I don't even know and I was tired of the strip screws and gas and vacuum leaks. So I did a little research online and found that Daytona parts company in New Smyrna Beach Florida sells a UN2 Universal single barrel carburetor that is supposed to be a direct Bolt on. I figured since I lived an hour away I drive up there and see the carburetor in person. I'm glad I did, I spent 45 minutes with the owner Ron and he gave me a lot of good advice on an electric fuel pump if I choose to add one and basic setup of the carburetor to make it quick and easy. I handed the man $300 cash and headed home. I didn't have much time but I wanted to see if the carburetor fit. I already had the old one off because I brought it with me and I dropped the new one on and following Ron's advice I literally had the carburetor installed and the engine running and idling beautiful in 10 or 15 minutes. I hooked up my vacuum gauge and adjusted the idle mixture until I had 50 psi and the car was idling smoother than I can ever remember. I had to make a quick adjustment to the adjustable throttle on the carburetor and then the linkage bolted right up. My choke cable fit perfect and my stock air cleaner also fit perfect. I have not driven the car yet but letting it idle and revving it up in neutral it already seems to run excellent. I'll update once I get a chance to drive the car but so far I am extremely happy with this carburetor and I'm really looking forward to not dealing with that old one again. I'm going to try to attach a few pictures of side by sides with the old carb and with the new one installed.

I thought I would share a few successes that I have had recently as I have been completely restoring my 48 Plymouth Special Deluxe sedan. I will start with the stainless steel fender moulding trim that was really in bad shape. Both of my front two fender mouldings (left & right) were severely creased inwards and looked horrible. I was able to restore them to where you can hardly see any deformities. I took two pieces of Oak wood and filed them with a couple wood rasps to conform to what the moulding should look like. For my mold, I used a section of the moulding that was not creased that I wanted the rest to look like. Then I filed one piece of wood that is cupped that the outside face of the moulding would lay on. I file the other piece of wood a little rounded with a little bit of a point would was fit inside the moulding. Then I sandwiched the moulding between the two pieces of wood and placed them on some carpet. I would then start hammering the top piece of wood into the moulding - starting where the crease was just beginning. I would then move back and forth with nice brisk strikes of the hammer on the wood. It only took about 15 minutes worth of hammering to straighten out the crease into the original form. I thought I might leave all kinds of noticeable dents/dings in the moulding, but I was surprised it didn't. It's not perfect, but unless I point it out you wouldn't even notice. Here are a few pictures that show the before during and after.

Went to a local swap meet, in mid 40 degree mist and rain. Normally lots of buyers and sellers, but the weather really thinned it out this year. Stopped by the license plate man, did some horse-trading on a nice set of ‘54 car plates and about 7 pairs of nice, newer plates. Bargained my way into a really nice set of ‘51 farm truck plates. Now, all I have to do is get the truck to look and run at least as good as the plates look.

Today's update has resulted in several changes short and long term. Most importantly the Classified section is currently not available because of some incompatible code that literally crashes the site. IPS is the vendor that supplies the core software for the site, including the forums, downloads, gallery, blog, and store. As a result when an upgrade is done the optional modules will work without any issues. Other features like the links and classified page are from third party suppliers. Unfortunately the author for the classified section has not updated his code to work with current version, and ISP server environment and it causes a fatal issue. They have a new version in beta but I'm concerned about the long term viability (and interest) of the publisher and will be switching to a different publisher for the classified functionality. If you has a paid ad running and didn't get your full 30 days, contact me (info@p15-d24.com) and I will get you a free ad when the new software is up in running. The bigger issue to consider is while many "neat" add ons are available add-on software support becomes a critical problem when the original publisher loses interest or just doesn't make enough money to be worth his time.

Want to introduce my 1949 Plymouth P17 business coupe It's mostly a survivor with a not so good Earl Sheib paint job that a previous owner got a long time ago probably the $29.95 version,which I think it adds to the character of the car and it did polish up nicely It has upgraded front disk brakes,a BW r10 overdrive and relocated front shocks. It's a work in progress I still need to repair axle leaks ,transmission leaks and a fuel sending unit . But it's a strong runner and fun to drive and it gets a lot of attention at the local car shows among the sea of GM products 😀

Hi Guys, I just wanted to double back and let everyone know what the culprit(s) were. Yes, the distributor needed a full rebuild. The breaker plate failed and was causing the points to bounce. Also, someone dropped the original point locking screw into the bottom of the distributor housing, and it was lodged into a heavy old cake of grease. This was the causing the mechanical advance to hit the screw and not function properly. So I rebuilt the whole distributor and set it up on my distributer machine. I was also right about fuel being the issue as well. The flexible fuel line from the body line to the fuel pump was so rotted, there were holes worn down to the webbing. With these fixes, the car is running better than it ever has. Thanks for all the advice and suggestions, Jon

Well I had a hailstorm that was destructive to my property so to get me out of my depression with this place I drove the truck on the property for its first time. 1986 was the last time it started easy and ran good and had brakes. I was so excited I ran out of gas shortly after backing it out of the garage. Looks like the tank needs at least 3 gallons on my hilly property. Ha. I forgot to look at the gauges as well I was so distracted. Jeez. I was more worried backing up with a droopy side view mirror. My neck is a little stiff rubbernecking out the door and looking at that mini rear view mirror and rear glass. Still things that need adjusting like the emergency brake and bench seat etc. A lot of paint touch ups needed. Was a little concerned I had bought wrong tires but they turned easy and there was no rubbing. They are Michelin’s truck tires P75 215’s. I asked for a harder tire and as skinny as it could go on the D-30 rims. I didn’t want bias ply. I like the stance.

If my starter ever needs replaced I will have my son do it. He needs the character, lol.

Continuing 2024 adventures. After this last winter's work, aside from still running a bit rough before it warms up, the ole Dodge is in finer shape than it has been since we first got it back on the road way back when. We went to a friends' place in Hammond for an afternoon social yesterday. He's a sculptor, not necessarily "famous" but his bronze bust of Joshua Chamberlain is in the U.S. Capital building, and Maine commissioned his work for the Soldiers and Sailors Memorial and the Maine State Peace Officers' Memorial at the State capital in Augusta. They have his works scattered about their property - hence the bronze moose in the background, there are two, one on each side of the driveway. Their property is a photographer's paradise, but not necessarily for automotive themes.

For several years I was hounded about getting a dog. Pun intended. Didn't want to do it. Not because I don't like dogs but because I do like dogs. I get too attached. I finally relented and on a Saturday morning and we took off on a two hour ride - one way - to pick up a basset hound puppy. That was eight years ago. Daisy is my buddy now. She hurt her back a few days ago and it was after hours. And the vet we usually use was going to be out of town for the Easter weekend and wouldn't be back until Monday. So I found an alternate local vet and took her in yesterday. OK I'm almost to the point of this post. I expected it to be a thousand dollars when I went back to pick her up. But I'll pay that - I don't skimp on medical stuff when it comes to people or pets. That's just one of the things that has to be done. BUT the bill was only 500 dollars - still not cheep. Now being of the old car mind set that means that I have 500 dollars left over to get some parts for the 47 P15. Not sure I'll get away with that😂 PS: I expected spinal problems in an old dog. But turns out it's only a pulled muscle. Really good news.

My Great Grandfather, and guessing my Great Grandmother with the '55 Dodge (I'll be inheriting this summer) and what I believe is a '55 DeSoto. The truck was my Great Grandfather's then my Uncle's, and then my Parent's, and soon to be mine. My Dad just told me that he is getting too old to work on too many toys, and he is giving it to me. It is in a little worse shape than here, but pretty much original. I'll post pictures of it's current state, in the correct area, when I get it out of the barn, but from what I recall it definitely will need a gas tank and fuel pump, amongst other things.

Personally (from all the posts here) I like dogs, but just don't have the time for one. You have to be around (or someone) every so many hours. When we moved to our place we inherited Puma, the shop mouser. She's had her adventures (lost for 6 weeks after a broken carrier outside the vet's office....but we got her back..which involves the USPS phone call...long story). She's my little buddy in the shop and when she's gone, I will miss here dearly. Growing up on a farm I never got too attached to the cats as they were outside animals and could literally disappear overnight. But she has clawed her way into my heart. She's over 20 years old (we actually figure 22 from discussions with the neighbors) now and spends the majority of her day sleeping, but still needs to take a nap at the end of the day on dad while he makes sure nothing will go amiss overnight in the shop after welding, maintenance or woodworking. Hemp oil has given her a new lease on life this last year or so, the arthritis pain is kept at bay and she still plays, runs and jumps. I highly recommend this for older pets! When she's gone, I'll be alone out there, but won't find a replacement as I worry too much about yotes and eagles. I give you the engerizer bunny kitty and shop supervisor: Puma!

Happy Easter everyone. Was such a nice day yesterday that I was out for most of the day. Managed to grab a pic whilst it was warming up. Doesn’t look too bad….

Well, same here, the pup eventually become family and usually cause less trouble or heartaches. My little dog asks for nothing, gives all. I have had a number of dogs over the years and yes, they all been good animals. But this little guy, he is very special. He was 14 last Christmas...I have had pugs since early 80's....they my favorite breed. Here he is doing his Don King impression.

Or install a 6v alternator, keep the 6v battery and drive happily ever after. 😁

All ready to re-install. I bought this one on eBay for $400 delivered. When I changed the Counter Shaft Gear ( aka Cluster gear ) I didn't like the countershaft so I replaced it with a good used one. The reverse lock out switch was open so I replaced that as well. Other than those items it was in very good shape. If you are going to go through one of these, the service manual and a parts book will help. There's a couple of little secrets you have to know about. Example: the lockout arm must be retracted to take the back housing off and there is this tiny tapered pin you have to drive out with a pin punch to do that. If the transmission is covered in grease you may not find it. I got all my parts super clean and checked the movement and function at each stage of assembly. I did not however install the governor as the book says to do. When I rolled the transmission over on the bench the pawl slid into place and things wouldn't turn as expected. I took it apart once more and figured out what had happened. Not a bad thing as I am now really good at assembly and disassembly for the experience. lol Of course it happened again and I simply turned it over and the pawl slid back into its rest position. Since my Suburban has Back Up Lights I wanted to see if I could add the switch with the Overdrive. It does fit and it does work! The beauty of the B-W R10 G1 Overdrive is all the MoPar replacement parts fit. Most of the wear parts in the Overdrive unit are standard B-W parts common to the other makes that used it. The reverse lock out switch is different however. When you see them on eBay most sellers call them a "Neutral safety switch" because that is what they look like. If p/n 1370-462 ever becomes hard to find at a decent price an adaptor could be made to fit a "real" neutral safety switch. ( another note: there's a short little round part that relays the movement of the reverse shift shaft to the switch. If you remove the switch under the car it will fall out and you could lose it. Best to check it before you install the transmission )

I saw an add for Modello Turbo that interested me. I sent a picture of my 46 P15 and they replied with a sample line drawing. I had them eliminate the spotlight and antenna, and this is what I went with. 27” wide, 16” tall, $118 delivered from Turkey, took 13 days from start to receiving today. I’ll probably white out the hanger bracket with touch up paint. I like it but the problem is I have an idea for a perspective of a 47 Dodge truck and it means more stuff, I have enough stuff. They are neat and affordable though. The shadow is from my lighting in the shop, it sets out 1/2” from the wall. A flash picture works better. But that’s on my PC with a digital camera. You get the idea. Rick D.

Back together.

Was able to get my dash clock working. Just needed to file the contact points for the electro magnet winding mechanism, has been a really good,productive day. Moving forward,slowly, but moving in the right direction.

Problem solved. The original grease fitting hole is a little less than 8mm diameter (about 7.9). So I got an 8mm and were able to press it in with a small socket over it and using a 2 leg puller around the control arm and turning the fitting in. Pretty happy with that.

This is a chart of Plymouth carburetor I.D. numbers from 1928 to 1974. This company sell rebuild kits, and there is some great info on their site. https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kplymouth.htm

Hi Greg, the car came from CA and spend his last 20 Years in Kansas. We bought it there last Summer. Its in very nice condition and we drove this week 300mls without any issues. It gets 18mls from a Gallon. Oilpressure us near 60psi with 20w50. Temperature at 160 deg. we got the ole tube radio working with a home made AM transmitter and iPhone, so we can let Frank Sinatra sing nasally through the tin can. Periodic correct Low Fi

took a few minutes after mowing the lawn today to drive a couple of the cars....

Pre BBQ and Merle has already been seen working on someone else’s truck Lol, and we have collectively solved the “ b-series” horn button removal scenario Ggdad1951 (with beer) John T53 (flannel left hand try) Merle (left of 48 dodger holding down the steering wheel)