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Rodney_Hamon

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About Rodney_Hamon

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1936 dodge 1/2 ton truck in storage since 1987. Engine is running now. P-23 acquired 2 years ago that is a project.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born 1955 Sacramento,CA BA Chico State Ma,MFA UNM,NM
  • Occupation
    Lumber yards, Construction, Professor

Converted

  • Location
    Half way between Albuquerque and Santa Fe in NM
  • Interests
    Restarting working on mopars. Printmaking. Restoring old house in country and helping sculptor wife

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  1. Is there a company that can build an exact replica of my ‘36 1/2 ton dodge truck gas tank? I keep coming up with generic tanks with fittings in the wrong location. The story: I just spent a lot of time moving the original location of the tank just 8.5 in. back to accommodate the overdrive. I had the tank cleaned and coated half dozen yrs ago by the last radiator shop in the ABQ area that would do it. Only problem was the pickup tube was dead 6:00 and hugging the bottom of the tank. I attempted to bend it for an elevation of 1/2 in or so but it crimped. So I temp used the drain plug opening fo
  2. Beds come off easier than they go on. The ibuprofen helps and a couple days off from rolling around underneath trying to figure out cushion pad height for the bed alignment. I’ve had well pump and broken water line issues so this has slowed me down. I did clean up the rear bumper and brackets and was wondering if this angle iron with the fancy center spring is original. I’m always fascinated by clever or just modified stuff by necessity for add ons.
  3. The 4 mystery rims off that D-30 had the sexy wheel covers (what year are those?) that I really liked. They looked awesome on my truck. I didn’t care if I went from 16” stock dn to 15” custom. The extra rim has the hubcap clips on it still and the wheel cover fits just in case I need to use as a spare. The important thing is those 4 rims are not bent and should balance nice with whatever tire I go with.
  4. I too am glad you’re ok. Your build is inspiring for me.
  5. It’s nice to have a machine around to make things a little easier on the body. Aligning and bolting dn today.
  6. Thanks everyone for clarification and a link to a good read. I certainly won’t be rotating these wheels diagonally. Ha. Personally, I thought ‘41 Willys, ‘56 and a couple ‘69 Chevies looked good with “slightly” larger wheels on the back. I wonder if Les Shwab Tires still does that special on rim restoration. My original artillery rims could use that!
  7. So I am puzzled. Did 1949 dodge coronets have 2 different size rims? 6” and 6 1/2” ? I have a ‘36 dodge truck that had these rims on them since 1975. I purchased that D-30, if that is the correct designation, back in ‘75 and got the engine and wheels off it. It was pretty original then. I would never do that again though as I was just a dumb 20 yr old. Anyway, I just finished cleaning and painting them and just now noticed the height difference. 2 of this and 2 of that. Well, it worked before so I guess it will fit again. But I am curious if those rims had been switched sometime in it’s life
  8. Did more touch up with paint on the cab and now it’s time to put the bed back on. I want the bed and rear fenders in place before I remove the running boards. In the meantime I have started to clean up the rims. Eager to start tire shopping and get that nose bleed from the $$
  9. Success with replacing the leaking wheel cylinder that came from moparpro.com. So worth the $150 for the pair. If the other weeps any time soon I have a backup. I see the site sells a drum puller. Worth it. I don’t know how anyone could do brake jobs on mopars w/o one. Got first clear coat on the cab back and been cleaning the rear end and the springs etc. Got the old tires removed from the rims so I can start the cleaning process. Tire shop said just prep really good and spray with a good industrial
  10. Wagoneer- Thanks for the white color comment and the others for their advice. I admit when my truck was first painted in ‘75 it was gorgeous. Now I wish I had put it to original blue but I was a 20 yr old. Now I just saw a gorgeous gray on a fancy Porsche that sure would look good. Ha. Now I’m a 66 yr old. Ha I started the engine with the new battery cables setup. Ground to the head. I have a strap from the cab to the chassis now. And I purchased 2 rear wheel cylinders that just came available eBay. Ouch was the price but I want to resolve the brakes and will whittle on the weeper later.
  11. Ah, yes, that was a good read! Thanks for that. I still learn.
  12. It is leaking from the cup. What is AB ? Andy B ? The backing plate only accepts the ‘36 size unfortunately on the rears. My P-23 was so easy to redo brakes wise. Sometimes I think I’m going to switch backing plates from my parts car and put onto the dodge. I also considered swapping the ‘38 Plymouth rear end under the dodge as it’s backin plates take average size wheel cylinders. Alas, it’s 2 inches wider.
  13. Oh, and I fabricated a battery tray for the optima to hang on the firewall. Tight fit but there was no more room under the cab/seat area. Where do you think a good grounding should go to. Chassis or the block? I like how P-23’s ground to the head but I always wondered if heat affects the ground end on the cable.
  14. Going to Milwaukee area for 3 weeks took the wind out of my sails but I got back to it. I finally figured out an emergency brake set up and found a gasket for the gas tank filler neck. I painted more in the chassis. I tried to correct the rear brakes and I managed to crimp the pick up tube inside the gas tank. The bed must be installed before the gas tank since I moved the rear tank support back 9 in and you can’t get your hand in there to install a bolt. I cut new pads for the bed supports from old industrial belting. I’m going with the gas tank as is and if I have any more hassle with thi
  15. Ok. I finally reversed the wheel cylinders to their proper location. Put everything back together and added fluid and bled and that pesky cylinder started weeping. When I initially got it back from restoration and installed it, it seeped so I sent it back in 2019 and White Post repolished the bore and put new seals in again and pressure tested it. After 4 hrs it had no leaks. Ok. So...the other 3 are holding and this one is cursed. Upon suggestions I may leave it and just see if it adjusts. Is there another place with fresh eyes that might be able to troubleshoot it?
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