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Bobacuda last won the day on February 7 2019

Bobacuda had the most liked content!


About Bobacuda

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Old Mopars and Texas history
  • My Project Cars
    B4B, 1954 Chevy wagon, '67 Barracuda convertible, '70 Barracuda convertible, '74 Barracuda


  • Location
    Deep in the Heart of the Texas Hill Country
  • Interests
    Old Mopes, wildlife and aquatic biology

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Professional biologist

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  1. Brent - Somehow I missed the backstory on this one. Your photo made me wonder Is this how all of those fires on the West Coast got started? Were you trying to compete with PFlaming's cat? Were you trying the PFlaming custom patina treatment? Or, were you fogging for mosquitos?
  2. My brother is the wood worker...I am the wood butcher. He uses fine cut saws...I use chain saws. . The last time we worked together we built a pole barn. He cut each rafter on his side individually. I strapped all of mine together and made one cut with the chain saw - I thought he was going to kill me. Like I told him, "The hay and the cows will never know the difference." And that is why rolling cart is made of metal - less chance of it falling apart and landing on me. I am lucky enough to have a tractor with a front end loader, which is how I pick up heavy stuff now.
  3. ARGH! Tooljunkie - My most humble apologies, I meant to say '69 Sweptline, NOT '79 Sweptline… I also apologize to anyone and everyone that felt I was wasting their time and efforts. I make typos, but that was ridiculous. OK, I am sufficiently red-faced. Bob
  4. The Sweptline trucks use I-beam with king pins, same as the Pilothouse trucks. I think I first read about this swap on a Sweptline forum. Anyhow, it was just a matter of disconnecting the brake line, the steering ends and then removing the king pin. This removed the spindle and the hub. I did this to both trucks, then I installed the Sweptline spindles with new king pins on my truck. Make sure you get spindles with the same diameter king pin - the first set I got were from a Sweptline model that was supposed to be a "gas miser," and the pins were smaller. The set that worked for me came off a full size, 1/2 ton '79 with a slant 6. After the spindles were installed, I put the brake backing plates back on and replaced the brake components. I ran all new brake lines, and I regret not using the original diameter lines. I used the size that the '79 and the '90 Dakota used. I have always wondered if this affects the amount of pressure I have to apply to stop the truck. Anyhow, I put new bearings and seals in the hubs and had the drums turned when putting it all back together. If the set you get has left hand lugs, this is a great time to change them out. Since I have a Dakota diff in my truck, I have eliminated the LH lugs. Its all hidden behind the hub cap, so no one ever sees it. Fixed my bad hub problem, I now have brakes that are easy to get parts for and are easy to adjust.
  5. The body is at the body shop, I have the drivetrain at my place. Trying to move the diff around reminded me that I did not want to work on it on the floor, so I got to looking at the tubing I had left over from the k-frame/engine/trans dolly and I thought, "Why not make one for the diff?" I tried to make it adjustable enough to use with other diffs, but it would require some additional "fabrication" to use on a diff that mounts under the springs. The bottom of the brake drum is 15" above the floor. The support under the input collar is a bit redundant on this diff, but I thought it might be necessary on others...and I had the scraps to build it with.
  6. Before I show the project, I should make it clear that the last time I welded anything was with a stick, "Lincoln tombstone" welder about 50 yrs ago (where does the time go...?). I have removed the B'cuda k-member (and the rear suspension) and I wanted some way to get the front suspension off the ground for rebuilding. The concept evolved into something strong enough to hold the engine and trans so it can be rolled underneath and the k-member (along with the engine and trans) mounted to the car, rather than lowering it into the car. So, I found some other people's projects online and came up with mine. Contrary to the other designs, mine has 4 wheels (rather than 3) since I tend to dump anything with 3 wheels on its side (specifically my 53 truck's engine first time I pulled it). I got a Hobart 140 as a retirement gift, so I added another $300 and upgraded to a Hobart 190 at the time. This is the first time I have used it in almost 2 years. And, I proved I can still make some welds look like cat poop on a flat rock, some that just look like poop, and some good ones. By the time I finished, they were all looking good. Time to order suspension parts and get busy.
  7. I put a 1990 Dakota full diff (8.25) under my 1953 B4B. I had to cut off the old spring hangers and weld new ones (from Northern Tool) on the top in the appropriate places. The u-joint was the same. I tried to use the Dakota e-brake, but my 53's factory lever could not get enough "mechanical advantage" to make it work. I removed all of the e-brake hardware and fine-tuned my original e-brake. Modern brakes, easy to find parts for, no LH lugs. I also put the front spindles (I had a bad spindle and hub) and brakes from a 1979 Sweptline. Nice, new brakes with easily available parts and I eliminated the LH lugs as part of the process. My only complaint is I ran the smaller diameter brake lines from the MC to the wheels - I think I should have used the large size line and downsized at the wheels. However, it all works fine. No complaints, so far.
  8. I have a B4B. Are we nit-picking? Offhand, the hub caps and the gas cap are wrong. The mirrors are different than mine, but his may be special order. And otherwise, for such a good restoration, why is the seat upholstery so bad, the door panels are not for a '53, crush on electric connectors, wires are vinyl and not cloth covered (I question the color coding), wiring not wrapped in tape. I understand why he went to 12V and alternator, but it detracts from a restored appearance. That said, nice looking truck.
  9. Almost as much fun as replacing the water distribution tube. I had to put lots of PB Blaster on mine, but one refused to move. Following another person's advice, I used a hydraulic jack and a long block of wood with a plate of metal under the pin. Then I jacked it up to put lots of the truck's weight on the bottom of the pin and left it overnight. Applied heat the next day (while under pressure) and finally was able to tap it out. There are different length pins. Measure your old ones before destruction. I got mine from https://dcmclassics.com/15-Door-parts-and-accessories
  10. When our '51 Plymouth and our '50 Dodge engines had that, it was a bad head gasket. Dipstick looked like it had been stuck in an off-white milk shake. Is the radiator losing water?
  11. JB- Finding that B4B script is amazing. Getting that piece of Unobtanium off the dash without breaking it will be damn near magical.
  12. I don't know about the older than 1953 Dodge straight axles, but when one of my front wheels spun a bearing and wiped out the hub and spindle, I was told I could use one from any of the Dodge I-Beams from the '50's up. I got a set from a '69 1/2 ton short-wide that was a "miser," lightweight 6 cyl - the kingpins were the wrong size. I went back and got a set from a '69, full size Sweptline with a slant 6 - fit great. I am using the spindles, hubs and drum brakes. It goes without saying to use the wheel bearings and seals that fit the replacement spindles and hubs. So, from my experience, spindles (get the hubs and all the brake stuff, too) from the newer Dodge I-beams will work, just make sure that you have the correct King Pin size or a parts yard that will work with you if you get a set that won't fit..
  13. Fritz Von Erich, aka "The Iron Claw"
  14. Wiring! Either make your own harnesses based on the old ones (about $250) or buy them from Rhode Island Wire (about $1000). Mine were crumbling apart and I built my own harnesses with color coded wires made for 6v. Every truck I've seen near the age of my '53 either had unsafe, crumbling original wiring, scabbed together patches of wire of various - or monochrome - colors run all over the place, or it was properly rewired.
  15. Interior looking nice.  Did you sneak off and get your truck all back together and not tell us or show photos?


    BTW, after losing about a year to back injuries (long, stupid stories), the 67 Barracuda is finally at the body shop.  When I get photos of it blasted, I'll share.


    1. Brent B3B

      Brent B3B

      Hey Bob, what truck you looking at? 😊

      haven't worked on “George” for sometime now.... I Am working on the worlds longest build with that truck. (35 years and counting, lol)


      Looking forward to the cuda photos. Just might be what I need to get back on track with George.


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