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joecoozie last won the day on June 3 2019

joecoozie had the most liked content!

About joecoozie

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

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  • My Project Cars
    1949 Plymouth Woodue


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  1. I have heard from others that diesel fuel is good for that. If all else fails you may need to pull the head. Valves could be stuck, too. That being said, as with a Chrysler I had, no matter what was tried (I even pulled the head AND loosened the crank bearing caps) that engine would NOT turn over-even with a 1" drive breaker bar and a long pipe. I also had a 49 Plymouth that had a locked-up engine. Even when the tranny was in gear and the car was pulled with a truck all that happened was the rear tires dragged. Sometimes they will free up and other times they need to be torn down.
  2. Time Left: 11 days and 6 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I am looking for the following for my 49 Plymouth: Crankcase breather down tube - the one that is mounted to the block - not the oil filler cap fuel pump heat shield drivers side rear fender brace/bracket - attaches to the fender and the frame to "stiffen" the fender Thanks, Joe


  3. Wanted for 1949 Plymouth View Advert I am looking for the following for my 49 Plymouth: Crankcase breather down tube - the one that is mounted to the block - not the oil filler cap fuel pump heat shield drivers side rear fender brace/bracket - attaches to the fender and the frame to "stiffen" the fender Thanks, Joe Advertiser joecoozie Date 05/13/2020 Price Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  
  4. Should be 251 c.i.
  5. I do not claim to know for sure but... You did not mention what it was getting hung up on. If it is the window then you'd need to remove the window first. I have only removed the vent windows on parts cars so I wasn't too fussy about doing it. I vaguely remember removing the window (and the mechanism) first and even then they were a bugger to get out.
  6. Thanks Bob. I never professed to know everything about what I say. Thanks for the education
  7. I believe Chrysler Corp had their own wood factory (Pekin Wood in Arkansas) and had the wooden bodies fabricated there for ALL Chrysler Woodies
  8. I know it has been a year since my last update about the Woody. Because I was furloughed from work for a few days I decided to do some work on my cars. The first thing I did was to get the 47 T & C running again (needed the points cleaned). It fired right up. Then I jumped to the 49 Caddy - installed new water pump, fuel pump, installed oil filter housing/lines, installed new thermostat and generator bracket. I finally got to the 49 Woody today and I dropped the oil pan. All I can say is "good thing I did". There was an inch or more of sludge in the pan and the oil pickup screen was totally gummed up. I am soaking the pan and will remove the pickup screen and soak that, too. Joe
  9. https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-is-a-salvage-title-vehicle.html
  10. I looked at my 49 Plymouth Woody and could not come up with anything. BUT I think it may go to the center rear brake light housing where the wiring goes through - on the side. It could be a bushing/bevel that allows the brake light housing to rotate without crimping the wires. Just a guess Joe
  11. Greg, I'm guessing finding that gravel shield would be the most difficult thing you encounter. I am glad you were able to get one. Everything else should be pretty straightforward. BTW. I know you posted on this forum and others about the 49 Plymouth Woody I bought. It was nice to hear your (and others) positive comments. Keep me (us) posted. Joe
  12. Hi Greg, This is Joe, the guy you bought the T & C from. It's good to see that you are starting on the project. I hope you can accomplish finishing the car as I was unable to tackle it. To answer your questions about removing the engine... I am not certain on a 1951, but the earlier cars, up to 1950 I believe, had bolt in front floorboards which, once removed, gives easy access to the trans/bellhousing etc... The easiest way to remove the engine would be to disconnect the trans first and remove it, even if you need to do it from underneath the car. This gives you plenty of room to get the engine out. Good luck on your adventure. Joe
  13. If you remove the tag what color is underneath it? Maybe that is the original paint and would be the original color underneath. Also, what color are the door jambs and the bottoms of the doors? Sometimes a car may be painted but these places are not - leaving the original color intact
  14. If you are going to remove the door(s) make a tracing (pen/pencil/marker...etc) around the perimeter of each hinge, both on the door(s) and where they attach to the body. This way when you replace the door(s) you can line the hinges up with the tracings. This will put the hinges back in their original position(s). Also, when removing the door(s) pay attention as to whether or not any shims are used behind the hinges. These would need to be used again for proper fitment/alignment.
  15. I have used this method many times. Drive a wooden wedge between the manifold and the engine block. Pick a spot close to the stud/nut you are working on but make sure it is a "beefy" area of the manifold. Don't want to break the "ear" off. This puts pressure on the nut from the manifold. Use your socket to try and back the nut off. If it is working the wedge will become loose and thereby will need to be tapped in again to repeat the process until the nut comes off.
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