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joecoozie last won the day on June 3 2019

joecoozie had the most liked content!

About joecoozie

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    1949 Plymouth Woodue


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  1. Can you I was in the middle of typing a similar reply but Plymouthy Adams beat me to it.
  2. Yeah, don't believe everything you see on You Tube. What you need to do is have a ton of patience moving forward. The car has been sitting 30 years - if you have to wait a couple of more months to get it running that's not a big deal. If you rush into it not only will it cost you more time but it can cost you a lot of $$$$$ As stated before,: Pull the plugs and squirt Marvel (as stated before) or a mixture of acetone and tranny fluid into the cylinders. The cylinders are not directly below the spark plug holes in the head so make sure you get it into the cylinders. You can use a small tube or straw to pour the mixture into the cylinders. It will also be okay if some of it goes into/onto the valves as they need to be lubed up, too. Let it sit a day or two and repeat the process. With all of the plugs out try turning the engine by hand. It sounds like the engine is either stuck or tight from sitting. DO NOT FORCE IT TO TURN. YOU MAY HAVE A COUPLE OF STUCK VALVES AND FORCING IT TO TURN CAN CAUSE DAMAGE. If it won't free up, or turn by hand, you can try removing the flywheel cover plate and using a big screwdriver/pry bar to turn it over using the flywheel teeth. This gives you more direct torque to the engine. DON'T FORCE IT!!!! IF IT TURNS A LITTLE THEN STOPS AND WON'T TURN ANYMORE THEN YOU MAY HAVE STUCK VALVES. If that is the case you will need to pull the head and maybe the valve cover plates (located under the intake/exhaust manifolds on the side of the engine block / if you do this clean up the sludge in there, too) to free up the valves. If you get it to turn freely without binding or stopping, then you can proceed to move onto the brake/fuel/cooling systems, etc. All of these things will need to be rebuilt, cleaned or replaced from sitting. Once you get it to turn over freely and before trying to start it: Proceed to #'s 1,2 - you can do #'s 3 & 4 after you get the car started using the procedure below 1)Drain the oil, radiator,fuel tank, etc... 2)Drop the oil pan and clean it out - you'll be surprised at what you will see. 3)Drop the fuel tank and get it cleaned/boiled out. 4)Flush all of the fuel lines, brake lines, radiator,etc... If it turns over freely and you just want to see if it will at least start /run, after performing the above mentioned steps (at least #'s 1 & 2), fill with oil, then either do a complete tune-up (plugs,cap,rotor,points, condenser, maybe wires, too), or clean up the plugs and points, and run a remote gas can connected to the fuel pump (this will tell you if the fuel pump is still good, too) to see if it will start. Good luck on your journey and remember - BE PATIENT !!!!
  3. I have heard from others that diesel fuel is good for that. If all else fails you may need to pull the head. Valves could be stuck, too. That being said, as with a Chrysler I had, no matter what was tried (I even pulled the head AND loosened the crank bearing caps) that engine would NOT turn over-even with a 1" drive breaker bar and a long pipe. I also had a 49 Plymouth that had a locked-up engine. Even when the tranny was in gear and the car was pulled with a truck all that happened was the rear tires dragged. Sometimes they will free up and other times they need to be torn down.
  4. Should be 251 c.i.
  5. I do not claim to know for sure but... You did not mention what it was getting hung up on. If it is the window then you'd need to remove the window first. I have only removed the vent windows on parts cars so I wasn't too fussy about doing it. I vaguely remember removing the window (and the mechanism) first and even then they were a bugger to get out.
  6. Thanks Bob. I never professed to know everything about what I say. Thanks for the education
  7. I believe Chrysler Corp had their own wood factory (Pekin Wood in Arkansas) and had the wooden bodies fabricated there for ALL Chrysler Woodies
  8. I know it has been a year since my last update about the Woody. Because I was furloughed from work for a few days I decided to do some work on my cars. The first thing I did was to get the 47 T & C running again (needed the points cleaned). It fired right up. Then I jumped to the 49 Caddy - installed new water pump, fuel pump, installed oil filter housing/lines, installed new thermostat and generator bracket. I finally got to the 49 Woody today and I dropped the oil pan. All I can say is "good thing I did". There was an inch or more of sludge in the pan and the oil pickup screen was totally gummed up. I am soaking the pan and will remove the pickup screen and soak that, too. Joe
  9. https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-is-a-salvage-title-vehicle.html
  10. I looked at my 49 Plymouth Woody and could not come up with anything. BUT I think it may go to the center rear brake light housing where the wiring goes through - on the side. It could be a bushing/bevel that allows the brake light housing to rotate without crimping the wires. Just a guess Joe
  11. Greg, I'm guessing finding that gravel shield would be the most difficult thing you encounter. I am glad you were able to get one. Everything else should be pretty straightforward. BTW. I know you posted on this forum and others about the 49 Plymouth Woody I bought. It was nice to hear your (and others) positive comments. Keep me (us) posted. Joe
  12. Hi Greg, This is Joe, the guy you bought the T & C from. It's good to see that you are starting on the project. I hope you can accomplish finishing the car as I was unable to tackle it. To answer your questions about removing the engine... I am not certain on a 1951, but the earlier cars, up to 1950 I believe, had bolt in front floorboards which, once removed, gives easy access to the trans/bellhousing etc... The easiest way to remove the engine would be to disconnect the trans first and remove it, even if you need to do it from underneath the car. This gives you plenty of room to get the engine out. Good luck on your adventure. Joe
  13. If you remove the tag what color is underneath it? Maybe that is the original paint and would be the original color underneath. Also, what color are the door jambs and the bottoms of the doors? Sometimes a car may be painted but these places are not - leaving the original color intact
  14. If you are going to remove the door(s) make a tracing (pen/pencil/marker...etc) around the perimeter of each hinge, both on the door(s) and where they attach to the body. This way when you replace the door(s) you can line the hinges up with the tracings. This will put the hinges back in their original position(s). Also, when removing the door(s) pay attention as to whether or not any shims are used behind the hinges. These would need to be used again for proper fitment/alignment.
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