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Got to drive the '48 around a little today. Still lots of work to do but at least it's mobile and safe.

You are going to do what you are going to do but before you wind up with several piles of incompatible parts consider this : Your Overdrive ( R10 J ) fits 57 to 59 only. The bell housing in your car may accept the V 8 of this era, so if you really want a highway cruiser, installing a V8... like an EARLY 318 or a 277 or similar engine with the eight bolt crankshaft is the way to go. Your '64 Slant six, if it is a 170, (Blue engine) will not have enough power. If it is a 225,(Red) it will have about the same power as the 230 but will be more durable. It will not fit your present bell housing or transmission. which means you have a cable shifted Torqueflight to somehow control from your column shift. Later Torqueflites are lever shifted so would work better for you but none of these has a parking brake which means you will be changing out your 3.73 differential. 1957 Automatics were air cooled, so you have to come up with a trans cooler, if you are using a later trans. A 230 from a 57000 mile '57 (4000 lb car) may be showing more wear than just a bad wrist pin. ( not a common problem with these engines but I can think of several other troubles which will make just as much noise) Your car is a good example of a now rare automobile so think carefully before you tear it all apart. If you just want to drive and enjoy it, rebuild and reinstall the 230. With Overdrive, it will take you down any highway you wish to travel. It will not win many drag races but nor will a Slant six. Not trying to rain on your parade or be a know it all but I have learned a lot of lessons in the school of hard knocks. Proceed with caution. Get good advice from someone who has done engine swaps. Don't get in over your head.

Started rubbing compound and waxing today. Not to bad for 61 year old paint.

Make certain you slip the fitting on the line BEFORE you make the flare !! And I mention that simply because I made a few flares before realizing I DIDN'T slip the fitting on, and had to start over!! I guess I needed the extra practice ! Wayne

Your Plymouth looks great! Took the 36 down the road a bit yesterday too. Nothing like a short road trip to help identify the issues.

Hey Elimart, I'm just north of you in Reedley. Have a two man task, contact me, I'll.come. Need to meet anyway!

We will be starting a new build thread on our 47 Dodge real soon.

Another thread I need not look at. Sorry

Ted seems to using a proper lubricant-at least for himself! DJ

There is an oil gallery plug in that one too. For the posters sake I'm hoping he just pulled the wrong one!

Yeah,but sometimes winter ain't enough. I'm not taking my 51 coupe off the road until I have everything I can think of that I will need to redo and put it back together again on hand,sitting in my shop floor. Including new chrome and glass. Already done all the brake,suspension,fuel system,and cooling system work to make it a safe and reliable driver,so I'm driving it until I have all that stuff. No more of that off and on crap. Do it and be done with it. I even have a brand new Auto Twirler rotisserie sitting there that hasn't even been put together yet. Caught them on sale and a buddy of mine wanted to buy one too,so we ordered them as one buy and save about 200 bucks each on shipping in addition to the sale price. Since I also have a 33 Plymouth coupe and a 42 Dodge coupe that will both need major lower body work,it wasn't hard to justify buying it. Even then I won't take it off the road until I get my 31 Plymouth coupe back on the road. Since I already have all the parts I need to do that and basically redoing the brakes and flushing out the fuel system is all it needs,that won't be a big deal.

That's why we have winter!

Not to mention inspire you to do more. They only become "real" once you can use them as actual cars or trucks. Prior to that they are just "projects",like the greenhouse or the pool you have planned for the backyard. Suddenly they are an ACTUAL CAR! Next will be the painful move of making it immobile again so you can do more work to it.

The biggest thing I've learned with making double flares is to spend some time cleaning up your cut. I file them perfectly flat and polish with some fine sandpaper and then take a round jeweler's file to the inside. Takes a while but you'll get a perfect double flare every time.

I'm glad it is operational again. That is a real nice photo too

All the cosmetic stuff is nice,but driving it is what it is all about,IMHO.

I read these discussions about breakerless ignition upgades with intetest. My '53 is still original. It runs very well. I'm not sure I need solid state ignition but I do ponder the idea of it. Wondering when it best offers advantages? Maybe it's good for folks who aren't comfortable setting and maintaining points? If I were preparing my car for a long epic adventure? Like a tour clear across Canada. Would solid state offer better reliability for such a trip? Do folks generally just keep spare points and condensor, feeler gauge and small file in the trunk?

All I can say is I had no problem using the gas cap I bought using the Stant part number on my 51 Ford,which requires a vented cap. I bought it last year,and it is a locking gas cap. I bought it from Amazon because I didn't want to make a 50 mile round trip to buy a gas cap,and they are cheaper anyhow,but where I bought it from is irrelevant because I ordered the same parts number.

Car is running great. First 1200mls are on the odo. Just came back from a 300mls trip this weekend. No issues except with gasoline. Looks like the gas pump can't deliver enough but is new. A deeper investigation is necessary. I asume the extra electrical pump is the problem because is directly in line with the mechanical one. Oil consumption is normal. Everything else working perfect. Thanks for asking. Andre

Not my first Rodeo with these. The Poly/5spd is probably where I am heading with this, just did not really feel like raising the tunnel for clearance, or reworking front seat to clear shifter. If I keep the Pushbutton, they are easily hid under dash, and leave shifter and third pedal in to fool the "All-Knowing" car show critics! I have access to 5-6 B body 8-3/4's and will go that route, due to Not being enthused about shearing rear hubs, etc. Definetly going with the disc conversion before I get to drive it. The slant is a 225, I have cam/intake/headers etc for it. Last one pulled 2900# '64 Dart 11:40's all day long. I will be rebuilding the Flat 6 and Driving it stock for a while, then, it will probably end up in the Tall T pickup.

That is what I'm trying to explain, yes you can buy a vented cap for our cars at Napa and most other parts stores. The problem is they are vented only to allow air in, the check valves are mandated by the EPA to not allow gas vapors to escape to atmosphere. I'm not nor will I turn this into a whizzing match. I stated how to resolve the issue on the check valve to allow the tank to vent both ways. I'll leave it at that sir.

Ditto!

That is coming out really nice! Looking forward to seeing the finished project!

That's gonna look great !!

I would think the pressure build up is going to possibly push fuel past the needle and seat, could cause flooding problems, diaphragm issues with the fuel pump, gaskets and seals.

Clearly, I have not done the whole job. Back at it tomorrow. drain the block (pick the crud) remove the lower rad hose and flush multiple times. Its all all a great learning experience.

Sent you a PM. Studebaker is up and running, put about 500 miles on it. Has a bent axle that needs to be addressed. Probably next month.

NICE CAR ! There are a number of D25s here locally (Vancouver Island ). At one time they were very commonplace. A treat to see now. At a small local show, we had 2 D25s and a D24 for comparison. ( when I organize shows, they are heavily weighted with Chrysler's products.

it is nice to have your own tools for this...HOWEVER.....if you only randomly do this type work, you can get the tools for free use at most Advance and other big box stores....its a heck of a deal......

I was hired by the ME Department during my extended senior year to finish a design project that we ran out of time working on, with the design centering on a GMC Sierra 2500 that was donated to the school (long story). After several months of unsupervised work, I was nearing the completion of the project, then I was informed that there was a delay in my paychecks 3 weeks in a row, with some sort of bureaucratic mumbo jumbo that came as explanation. The department secretary informed me on the back steps during her smoke break that if I was not paid in full by a certain date, the university did not have to pay me at all; also, they could only pay me so much per week, not one lump sum...I quickly did the math and realized that if I didn't start getting paid in a few days, I was gonna get stiffed out of some big $$$ to a starving college student. So I made my move the next day...2 days later, the department heads involved with administering projects were cussing me out in the hallway between classes, in front of other students, threatening to have me thrown in jail for theft of university property, cuz that GMC had "disappeared" ...I smiled and told them that I was just so weak from not eating, cuz I hadn't gotten paid in almost a month, that I was having trouble remembering things; this brought snickers from innocent observers and smoke coming out of the ears of the aggressors...the paychecks started being delivered as required a few days later, and when the last one cleared the bank, I paid a visit to the department head's top floor office, walking past the department secretary and giving her a wink as I dangled the GMC's keys (did I mention that she was drop dead gorgeous?). He cursed me out some more, told me how unethical I was being (hello kettle, you're black), and demanded to know where the blankety blank truck was...I pointed over his shoulder out the window to the university motor pool parking lot 500 feet away, where that red truck was parked in clear view of his window, and since that lot was secured, it had never left the university property and the keys had been with the motor pool office the whole time, where I had checked it in under my name with the ME department... which was right next door to the university police station... he cursed me one more time as I walked out the door, and I patted the department secretary on the head as she was covering her mouth and turning beet red, trying not to laugh...later, I ran into her on her smoke break, and she high-fived me for my accomplishment, and relayed to me the aftermath of that whole incident as it unfolded in the department corridors, as egos had been bruised for the fact that some lowly undergrad had bested several distinguished PhDs at a game of chicken...it was a good thing

looks like my Southbend 9 lathe including the collet setup.........less belt setup as mine is underslung motor Field Repair Mobile Unit...love it...!

I got bored and did a quick Google search and the name of the cheese shop . Their website and Facebook page as a few partial photos that have the Pilothouse in it but I couldn't save them and post them. Just as well, they really ..... cheesy pics anyway John

D25 gravel pans are smooth and the bumpers wrap around further than on the P15. The bumper irons are different too... If you look closely, you'll see an extra pair of bumper bolts visible at the front. As the blue car is in Canada, perhaps the bumpers were swapped at some time, using parts that were available locally? For reference, here are a couple of pictures of a D25 coupe, here in the UK...

Hiding under the tarp I'm going to guess is a 1961 Chevrolet.

I really love the way your truck is turning out.

Looks great. Looking forward to getting to this point with my own.

Looking good man!

Sounds like you are doing it up right. Keep us posted on your progress

I do suggest you stand real close when you throw the rings and bearings in

this is appropriate wear to many car shows....just in case you come across a patina car and need to pa-puk-a

This is an old farm truck I pulled out of a fence row in Colorado. An afternoon with a hose, soap, and some Mother's cleaner wax got me here.

What can be done is very personal. For me, I would wipe it down with acetone to remove the oxidization, (50's) used car trick, then I would give it a good cleaning 320 wet/dry sand paper, then a final rub down with 600 grit. Follow thatcwith several coats of semi gloss clear. That is what I did pre fire. I know it is controversial but every one walks by the shiny paint jobs and come see me.

Ya there is suppose to be three different familys of Yaciuks up there. I think I will be leaving the lettering on the truck. But I did a small piece on the back of the trucks box the other day. Just to see what it might look like. The top is the wax the bottom is the way it looks. The spots on it is because of raining.

Been a little while since I was able to post here, I ended up just going with a new universal 6 volt harness. I have been very happy with it, its nice to have all my lights backup and working and be able to drive my car! Thank you everyone for all the help, tips, and tricks!

My method is to rip most the wires out....wait a year and then attempt to rewire. I find it more challenging this way . A better method is depending on your skill, one wire at a time will be satisfying. No doubt a rewire will improve reliability.