HotRodTractor

Here is what a factory linkage looks like on a truck engine.

I know there are a couple different versions - mine has the 3/16 dies.

And to paraphrase Henry Ford: A tool you need and do not buy, you will find you have paid for and do not own. That flaring set has earned its keep. lol

I upgraded to a hand held hydraulic flaring tool a few years ago. Quality flares across the board no matter what style with very minimal fuss compared to the tool being used in this thread. I regret not upgrading earlier. Just food for thought for those that have trouble or are needing to expand their flaring capabilities. The one I purchased is made by Mastercool.

No. I'm casting a new hemi head that more or less resembles the Chrysler A161 prototype of 1947. When I get a little further down the path of a final design - i'll make a post and upload a YouTube video outlining the project, specific goals, processes, etc.... bottom line - I'm designing the head to mimic this one pretty closely with some minor updates and tweaks - then instead of taking the time and money to make molds to make the sand molds - the sand will be direct printed using additive manufacturing. Its going to take me a couple of years to pull the whole project together and stuff it into a 1928 Ford RPU on deuce rails.

My 265 is getting a hemi head - I don't have to worry about siamesed intake ports.

I know that when I go FI - I will be hiding the injectors into carb bodies. Not my picture, but I did save this as some inspiration - two injectors almost hidden into Holley 94s. I'd have to do some digging on the HAMB to remember his name, but this guy went on to hide injectors into the lifter valley in a Ford flatty - we aren't quite as lucky to have an area like that to hide the injectors. My intent is to basically do an improved version of this on a custom manifold with three throttle bodies with two injectors per. A fuel injected six pack for my I6 if you will. Jason

I'm not sure if you are actually talking to Tinytach or not - but I can confirm they don't care anything about vehicle voltage. I used these exact tachs on Briggs and Stratton engines 15 years ago - Its just a little self contained device with a wire that wraps around a spark plug wire and the act of firing the plug generates emf into that trigger wire and figures out rpm based on that.

I'd love to see some pictures of the fuel pump and hydraulic pump setup. I also have a 265 Industrial engine (block was cast in 1967). It has a chain driven cam and has a hydraulic pump mounted and driven off the front of the crank (I also have a 230 Industrial that is setup the same way...). I haven't stripped mine down yet - not sure if I will - it has good compression, runs well, and came out of a combine that only had 300 hours on the hour meter.... I kind of believe it too.... the farm that had it must of bought it in 1968, and by 1974 they were bankrupt and sold everything except for 15 acres about 9 of it was tillable ground. They did continue to make some wheat and soybeans up until 2005 on that ground - not sure when they stopped using the combine though, it was several years before that point.

Nice! Do you happen to have a dyno sheet with the curves that you could post? Also - the 3mb limit is per post - so you can always make another post with another picture.

I believe the mating exhaust manifold was made by the Custom Manufacturing Company as an option for this tractor. I was looking closer at that and noticed the square feet on the intake as well.

Has anyone seen an intake manifold with square mounting flanges at the block? PN 1316477-1 it looks like.

Not all ZTRs are like this. My ZTR has 4 wheel independent suspension - its the best riding lawn mower I have ever been around. Its also big enough that the the front wheels don't bounce - but it is also a commercial unit with a diesel engine. Its big and heavy, but floats like a cloud.

A very quick search for some links that may help in diagnosis: http://p15-d24.com/topic/34065-fluid-drive-not-downshifting-what-to-check/ http://p15-d24.com/topic/41254-49-fluid-drive-advice-needed/ http://p15-d24.com/topic/16946-a-new-carb-question/ It seems to me there is enough information there to at least lead someone down the path of a diagnosis.

I'm not totally familiar with your setup, but I don't believe the issue you are experiencing is with the Fluid Drive. The fluid drive is is just a viscous coupling between the engine and the clutch. The shifting mechanism you speak of sounds like you might have a "Presto Matic" transmission. This type of transmission operates off of electric solenoids and if the previous owner was swapping between 6V and 12V.... I would say you should start your investigation with your electrics. Going from memory there is at least 2 solenoid cans on the transmission and there is an input on the carb. Under certain conditions (speed, RPM) the solenoids shift a gear, essentially turning a 2 speed transmission into a 4 speed transmission. I am sure that if you search on here, you'll find discussions of converting this setup to 12V, find a wiring diagram, and even finding "modern interpretations" of how this system works and how to make it work using just toggle switches to eliminate some of the system for troubleshooting purposes. There was also about half a dozen different names this transmission setup had through the different Mopar branches, so keep in mind it might be listed under one of several different names.