etzmolch

My solution in 2017. Still working without problems.

I am thinking of galvanic corrosion with a brass tube in a cast iron engine block ... I used the AB tube with out problems in installation... With the periodical coolant change and the right mixture ratio of coolant and water, the problem of corrosion on the steel tube is minimized or zero. The most coolant brands and car manufactures request a periodical change not only to sell coolant or the change service...

I replaced the old cork float with a plastic type from yunk yard with approx. same size. Cutted both steel wires and soldering the "new" one with a smale sleve to the old steel wire. Works fine.

Made my owen by designing and 3d-printing. Not original but working...

Always a point of view. If you grow up with one system it’s easy for you to use it and hard to use the other one. But with some practice you can use both systems. At least with the bolt and wrench sizes starting from 1/4”...

I do have a AAJ Brake kit using the following parts for front brake: Rotors, bearing & seals: 76 Dodge Dart Calipers & pads: 72 Charger Hoses :76 Monte Carlo To find this parts here in Europe shouldn't be a problem. For caliper bracket I can send a drawing for cutting because didn't installed the disc brake yet.

Thanks guys for your offers. This will help no question. Fortunately I bought last year a complete drive unit from a forum member from Sweden. (Was a really nice trip btw.) So at least did not see the car in the garage only. Swapped the engine and can drive this summer. But the other was the original one (same number as on the chassis) and I want this one back in the car. @Andy You are absolutely right, trust nobody. Unfortunately the plan from the beginning was to let the workshop do all the machining and assemble the engine my self. The opportunity I have.... So wrong decision I made at this point... But I thought when they do I can focus to all the other things. Will not happen again. Regards Andre

Thanks guys for all of the suggestions. I am aware about the high shipping cost and the possibility to get a scrap crankshaft. I did also check some companies who are able to build up the journals by welding but all said me the risk is on my side because they don't know the material composition of the crankshaft. Will investigate further to see what is possible. The engine was rebuilt in a "professional" workshop. After high oil consumption I decided to remove the head and the surprise: I didn't find any honed cylinder walls (after ~2500mls), honed surface completely gone. Contacted the workshop, they removed one connecting rod and the connecting rod journal is rutted. Unfortunately the crankshaft was grinded to the last possible value. First answer from them.: Engine got dust... I ask how dust can enter the engine? After a lot of discussion I made an oil analysis. Really less silicate was found but a lot of metal residues. Now the components, I bought are the problem, or the wrong oil or, or.... They did all right. I did wrong. Still in "fight" with them...

Can anybody tell me where I can find a good usd crankshaft for a 230 Dodge Engine with fluid drive? My was grinded to the last possible value and can't be used any further. Thanks Andre

Fastest shop for shipping to Germany. 4-5dys with the lowest shipping cost. Other shops need 2wks and more. And no issues with customs clearance.

After a engine change I had a noise from my old transmission which wasn't there before. The only difference was to put this seal (approx. .03) in between. Today I added additional shims and the noise gone. So my thinking was maybe this gasket is really thick(.08 or more). There must be a a difference between the bell housing lengths from a '49s to a '50s engine. Both are fluid drives and I used the bell housing came with the '49s.

Can anyone tell me the thickness of this gasket? Thanks, Andre

Thanks. Looks not bad for this was asking.

Can anybody tell me what’s the name of the openings in the fender as seen on the picture? Do they have a deeper meaning or just show? Thanks André

For this I want to bypass the electrical fuel pump with a check valve in the line of the tank to the mechanical fuel pump.