Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About laynrubber

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    LaRonge Canada
  • My Project Cars
    52 Ply Cranbrook, rebuilt flathead, overdrive, disc brakes, 4 doors ! 52 Ford Truck...project. 68 Mustang convertible.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    married 2 grown kids, Miniature schnauzers, 68 Mustang, 52 Ply, 52 F100
  • Occupation
    Fixin broken airplanes


  • Location
    La Ronge, Saskatchewan
  • Interests
    old cars, snowmobiling, fixin stuff like our 52 Cranbrook 4 door

Recent Profile Visitors

771 profile views
  1. Cool pic. Indeed parts of western Canada has seen plenty of rain this summer. Not to down play the hail damage but do remember, our cars have heavier gauge body than anything later model. Most in their early years probably did not have garages to hide in and they did survive 20, 30 or 40 summers of possible hail. But I agree...I get nervous when the forecast says possible hail.
  2. I have seen one regular awhile back on EBay. I made mine out of .032 aluminum....wasn’t quick. Someone here if I recall rebuilt theirs with fibreglass.
  3. The heat gun method might be too complicated for most of us.....I can see it in Formula racing but for the average joe it seems like too many variables. At what point does the tire get heat soaked and give erroneous readings, outside air temp would affect how far to drive before heat soaking. Not driving far enough and not enough tire temp. Seems pretty high tech, interesting enough I am going to try it myself.
  4. Thanks for all the discussion here, I am not able to get to garage and check some stuff yet but Ulu here is the wire diagram for my set up ..... https://i.imgur.com/yNkusAy.jpg?1 I had the no reverse issue when I was running 6 volt and a 6 volt solenoid too. With the 12 volt solenoid I still have no reverse But I will try it with the solenoid removed. Otherwise this whole system works real well, shifts smooth.
  5. Huh, I think I learned something today. Chalking the tires sounds like the best method. Disregard my idea and I feel sheepish now. Ummm anyone got chalk.....
  6. Tires should have a recommended pressure on the sidewall, I go by that. For proper tire wear run the max pressure they list.
  7. Thanks for the reply. If I recall I am not using the governor. I have a 12 volt system now and a George Asche wire harness so I control when it goes in and out. Maybe the governor doesn’t know that now : )
  8. Here I am again. Tried the search function and other than linkage issues, no answers. So, R10, rebuilt by me. Had reverse engage a couple times but mostly not. Drove it last summer almost 2400 miles, the gear box and overdrive work smooth like a good dark smooth rum. I know that for reverse to engage the OD has to be disengaged.....I have the cable undone and the lever wired to a hard stop in the disengage position. I had linkage undone and checked to see if the shift arm on the side of the gear box is moving far enough....all that checks out ok. Yet, still there is no reverse engagement. What am I missing ? Am I splitting the gear box open for something in there ? I’m needing ideas. Pushing the car back has become tiring and embarrassing.
  9. I am going to revisit this thread with an update.... The fuse blowing was a solenoid issue, fixed by converting to 12 volts. Changed out the solenoid. As for towing with the overdrive here in Saskatchewan it was no problem. Maybe a couple hills I clicked the column mounted switch to turn off the OD and dropped in 3rd regular. On the flats....cruised along with traffic no problem. Still don’t like the ball and socket drive shaft....I think I have a vibration still from when I changed out my brand new ripped boot. Reassembling it I think I was like .006” off for being centred if I recall. Still no reverse either, we drove it 2400 miles last summer with no reverse but it need to find out why there is no reverse. There will be a new post on looking for help.
  10. This is an alt from a 68 Mustang and the external regulator is from the same.
  11. https://www.vintageautogarage.com/Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Desoto-6-to-12-volt-conversion-kits-s/2763.htm try this site out.
  12. Looks real good. I like the idea of a hidden radio In that plate.
  13. I have done the shock relocation and honestly I don’t see a difference. Now, when I did it, the car sat several years after waiting other things so I don’t remember the ride before. Looking at the physics of the relocation it makes sense but my reaction wasn’t wow....this is so much better. I had...have, an issue with the brackets too. I bought the kit from someone on here (can’t remember from who) and followed the instructions for measuring. Once complete though the shocks bottom out before hitting either bump stop. I posted here years ago with no definitive answer. After a 1500 miles last summer I see no adverse affects to this but it still bugs me.
  14. To answer the original question, there are suction devices but it isn’t going to do as good as you want it to. First off not all the cylinders will be holding the magic oil as there will be leakage past rings and or open valves. I recommend cranking it over with absorbent rags over the plug holes. Secondly you got no oil out those 2 cylinders because the oil leaked past the rings or valves.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use