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dpollo last won the day on February 14 2020

dpollo had the most liked content!


About dpollo

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Vancouver Island BC
  • Interests
    Chrysler products, farm machinery, off grid power
  • My Project Cars
    in process 52 Dodge convertible . Finished : 35 Ply. coupe, 40 Ply. coupe 50 Ply sedan, 51 Ply Convertible 52 Fargo half ton , 28 Chrys roadster

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  • Biography
    have never been without a Plymouth or Dodge six since 1956
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Vancouver Island BC Canada
  • Interests
    Old Farm machinery, Off grid power, Chrysler's products

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  1. switch should be the same all 50 to 54. relatively easy to disassemble and clean. Six wires, brake light in, flasher in, left rear, right rear, left front, right front out. color coding is likely faded out but a little logic and an ohm meter or a circuit tester can sort out which is which.
  2. It very likely will go in without problems. In 1940, the crankshafts had 4 bolt flanges but later engines had 8 , in part to better support the Fluid Drive. A 4 bolt flywheel to FD will fit the 8 hole flywheel. Note that one hole is offset.
  3. The procedure , as illustrated may need editing. best to remove all moving parts from the block and then clean and check for cracks. Check for undersize and oversize components and separate parts that may be serviceable and those which need replacement. Valves are too hard to respond to lapping, especially exhaust and any removed with pliers should be extra carefully checked to see if they are bent. Also top ring grooves must be "on spec" . Hastings offered a GL spacer and the procedure for installing is easily done but requires either a lathe or a "hand lathe" especially made f
  4. What a great start to my day (year) Thanks, Keith, I will see if Murray is on the forum he would like a ride in his old car.
  5. Slide under and run a ground lead from the frame to the steel gas line.
  6. A dead plug will be sooty black compared to the others.
  7. Oil is supplied under pressure to the filter. with a stuck bypass, it cannot return to the pan.
  8. I successfully dealt with a stuck plunger by installing an oil pump with the relief valve in the cover (53-4 Chrysler) the downside is that the bypass oil filter does not work. Temporary repair, still running so far as I know 30 years later.
  9. What is black and tan and looks good on a prowler? A Doberman.
  10. quick fix that doesn't look too bad is to put a Tee in the heater outlet on the right rear corner of the head . that is 3/8 pipe, so you need a 1/2 inch tee, a 3/8 nipple and bushing and another for the heater hose. The temp gauge fitting will screw into the tee. Enough water will circulate to operate the gauge even when the heater is off.
  11. You have the ignition lead on the accessory terminal which is not energized when the starter is engaged. If you push start the car, it will fire right up. Got a bargain on a 54 Plymouth with this error. Ten bucks !
  12. The expander, called a Marcel is most often found behind the upper oil ring. In some ring sets, a marcel is used behind the second compression ring
  13. You are in a world of hurt. You have probably come up with the most difficult swap there is . If you are lucky, the P25 block will be a 230 and has 8 holes in the crankshaft. Otherwise the fluid drive will not fit. If you are going to use a Hydrive, then the block must have the necessary passageway for return oil to the pan, and machine work to seal the end of the oil gallery to the Hydrive adapter. You cannot use the truck bell housing pictured without ruining the car. A Plymouth bell housing will work if you cut and move the crossmember and change ALL the linkages and lengthen your d
  14. It is there. look into the two small holes just inside the pan rail. If the crankshaft is still in place, a shot of air into the oil gallery should push the plunger out. If it were not there, you would have had no oil pressure. If it were stuck the oil pressure would have been 100 lbs or more just after startup. Make sure you get it out. If it remains in place and is stuck, you have real problems.
  15. Be sure to protect the threads at the top of the steering tube. If you bell-mouth the tube with the puller, the game is over. Reinstall the nut but not tight and make a simple center for the puller which will slip into the tube. A bolt will work it you round the edges and for a dimple to engage the pointed end of the puller.
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