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plyroadking last won the day on June 23 2017

plyroadking had the most liked content!


About plyroadking

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...
  • Birthday 12/09/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Des Moines, Iowa
  • Interests
    Vintage vehicles
  • My Project Cars
    1930 and '40 Plymouths, 1941 Buick, 1957 International, 1963 VW Bug, 1968 AMC Ambassador, 1984 & '86 Chevy K30s, and a 1989 GMC Jimmy


  • Location
    Ames Iowa
  • Interests
    Plymouths, Mopars, and Plymouths

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Automation Engineer and wrench bender

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  1. Just a matter of slapping the fluid drive input shaft from your transmission into the overdrive transmission. And then rigging up a kickdown switch on your throttle. Also need to make sure the overdrive is a pre 1955 as I believe it was '55 when they changed to the pin type syncros or you'll also have to swap your gears in the trans as well. Now the England part might make overdrives a little harder to find.
  2. I don't think they'd fit nicely on a standard tranny jack. I just jack the car up fairly high and then slide them out or in while laying on my back.
  3. They're pretty easy to rebuild/repair depending on which one you have. Could either be an R7 or a R10. If its an R10 then it's easy and cheaper. The R10 was used by chevy, ford, studebaker, hudson, etc. However the cases and shafts are different but most internals will interchange. Rolling them in reverse with the overdrive cable shoved in can upset the spragg clutch. They have a lockout rod that temporarily "disengages" overdrive when shifted into reverse.
  4. You've also got to check the other 1934-'55 mopars in the yards as well. They've been a popular transplant in non originally equipped cars for awhile. I removed one from a '48 Dodge and a '41 Plymouth that I found in salvage yards.
  5. Hard to tell but looks like it has 16 count spline for the axle shafts. I'm not sure when they changed from 10 spline but that 3rd won't just slap into at least a 1940 though 53 Plymouth.
  6. Most of the internal R10 overdrive parts will interchange with R10s that were used on other makes. However the cases, input, and output shafts are make specific. The governor drive gear does not interchange and the solenoids are different once you get away from borg's overdrives made for the big three. The Packard you have most likely won't bolt into your car, the input shaft is different for one and also no provisions for the parking brake either. I presume with enough ingenuity and machine work it could be made to fit though. I'd recommend finding a 1952-1955 Plymouth transmission with over
  7. In order to achieve the final drive ratio an overdrive provides you'd have make a big drop in a rear end ratio. One ratio calculator i like is http://www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys/speed.html#:~:text=Engine RPM divided by total,gives vehicle's speed of travel. It allows you to put in an overdrive ratio and play around, R10s are a 0.7 I swapped out my 3.9 ratio 3rd member to one from a 50s dodge that's 3.73. That only gave me a 3mph speed increase. In my opinion adding an overdrive is the less intrusive and easily reversible route to go. I've logged around 80k miles with my '40 t
  8. I've been pretty happy with the b&b except for the excessive wear on the butterfly shaft and housings after 80 years. They're simple to rebuild and seem to be a set and forget carb. I stumbled upon a '55 dodge factory 2 barrel intake and carb several years ago. More carb means more hp right!? So I slapped it on my '55 ply 230 in my '40 Plymouth. I didn't notice enough difference to write home about except that it'd finally idle at a really low rpm because I wasn't sucking air in around my worn out butterfly shaft. I found a nos '40s b&b a couple years ago and will swap it and manifold
  9. I had a shop make several copies of the 1953 style kickdown switch mount. At least I think it was from a '53. I believe they'll work back to 1946 but I'm not certain.
  10. Does it "bang" when you accelerate gradually with the overdrive cable pushed in? and when you shift into a different gear and the engine catches up to the rear end? To me it sounds like the sprag clutch is isn't installed quite right or there is a piece or two missing? i think i have an exploded image of them in a book if that'd help? I know the R10s will bang if you're "free wheeling- governor has dropped out and you're sprag hasn't engaged" and that'll put divots in the center piece, if you hit it hard enough you can reduce it to a paperweight
  11. I installed a switch just like you're talking about so I can override the governor. I highly recommend taking your switched ground wire to the governor terminal on the lockout switch thats on the overdrive transmission. That switch is made when the cable is fully engaged. That way you won't have to worry about that switch inadvertently getting bumped and causing issues.
  12. I rebuild them occasionally and sell them. I install them in my car and test drive all of them to ensure I'm selling someone an overdrive that I know is going to bolt in and work. I bought a "rebuilt" one 14 years ago for my grandfather's car and it didn't work. Spent my 21st birthday trying to figure them out. Ended up doing it though college to help fund tuition. I've lost count of how many I've been though. I've got several on the bench now that I'll have ready to test drive next spring when the car comes out of storage. What part of San Francisco? I grew up by Sacramento, live
  13. Thats mildly depressing! I ship all mine in an extremely sturdy wood crate.
  14. Is it a standard transmission or an overdrive transmission? I've never seen that washer in the transmissions I've had apart. Kinda makes me want to go tear apart some of them under the bench and see if any of them have it. I'm almost certain that it's not from a standard transmission, and it's been awhile since I've had an early overdrive apart.
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