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Posted (edited)

45 mins to get the upper starter mounting bolt back in and tightened.  237 ci 25” engine with foot starter lever. I love the simplicity of the foot lever but getting a 5/8 wrench and your hand down in there? Oh boy…
 

I’ve done this 4x in the past few years. It doesn’t seem to get any easier. Worked myself into a sweaty contortion artist.
 

 It’s all good, done.  I’m just here looking for sympathy. Lol. Anyone have a trick for this task? 
 

IMG_0323.jpeg.c303267be2bee623af1a5cf183a95cad.jpeg

Edited by keithb7
  • Like 1
Posted

the special starter wrench Merle mentions is the go to for many starter applications....I guess I have owned mine for over 50 years.  The shorter combo universal and sockets are shorter than using a socket with an universal and may be of benefit in many applications with some extensions involved in the process.   

Posted

Simple starter installation:

 

Step 1.  Remove engine.

Step 2.  Install starter. 

Step 3.  Reinstall engine. 

 

Am I missing some steps?

Posted
3 minutes ago, DonaldSmith said:

Simple starter installation:

 

Step 1.  Remove engine.

Step 2.  Install starter. 

Step 3.  Reinstall engine. 

 

Am I missing some steps?

you forgot to raise the hood and set the wheel chocks.

Posted

I removed a starter one time .... boy was it miserable.

With my current truck, even with the front end stripped down to the engine sitting in the frame .... I thought about removing the starter just to clean and paint it.

Even then I decided against it as long as it is working fine .... I'm leaving it alone. The 1/2 moon wrench does help .... I made a few turns on the top bolt to check it out .... still no cake walk.

Posted

Maybe someone should cut up a ratcheting box end wrench and weld back up in the shape of one of the old starter wrenches.   I have one of the old ones, somewhere, haven't seen it in years.

Posted
9 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Maybe someone should cut up a ratcheting box end wrench and weld back up in the shape of one of the old starter wrenches.   I have one of the old ones, somewhere, haven't seen it in years.

GEARWRENCH 5 Pc. 12 Pt. Reversible Half Moon Double Box Ratcheting Wrench Set, Metric - 9850 https://a.co/d/cybVRbM

 

 

Posted

Something like this in the correct size. I think mine was  a ⅝” bolt head. 
 

IMG_0324.jpeg.196ce430baff75325e6ea9bf2157e827.jpeg

Posted

I think that would be ideal keith ..... My experience with a non ratcheting starter wrench, they work but still only getting 1/4"-3/4" turns at a time .... working but going to take some time.

 

Ratcheting wrench would speed it up.

Posted

I've had mine in and out twice (that doesn't sound right) I hurt my back leaning over the left front fender to get it down into position. I built a wooden cradle on a 2 X 4 coming up from the ground into the engine compartment that set the starter at the same height to line up the bolt holes. It was a bitch, no question, but it worked. But then I still had to crawl underneath the car to tighten that second bolt. It was just hell. I'm having to put it back in after having it repaired. I think I'll call a neighbor who farms who is much better built than I am.

Posted

My smart arse answer is to have a right hand drive car. Steering column is out of the way and they have the push button starter, not the pedal job...

However, those rachet gearwrenches look the best bet. I have only ever removed the starter from a removed engine or one where the body has been removed first.

 

Posted
2 hours ago, kencombs said:

Proud of that set they are!  In my Yoda voice.

And the SAE is slightly more $ yet! I didn't shop around though so there might be cheaper options 

Posted
1 hour ago, Young Ed said:

And the SAE is slightly more $ yet! I didn't shop around though so there might be cheaper options 

 

The cheaper option might be a custom wrench made from a cheapie wrench with the assistance of an acetylene torch??

Posted

I went to antique shops and bought every kind of wrench that looked like it might work: John Deere, Ford, etc. very cheap, and I think one of them helped at least helped out.  The Deere and Ford wrenches were specialized for particular cars and therefore were different shapes.

Posted
35 minutes ago, bones44 said:

Should have replaced it with a 12 point bolt.

Yep,  I mess with old garden tractors too and on the old Case and Ingersolls the hydraulic motor is attached with 1/2"/13 threaded bolts with 1/2" 12pt heads.   Perfect for starter bolts.

Posted

Those ratcheting heads are bigger, wonder if there is enough room to get it on the bolt?  Just getting the bolt started is tough for me.  :)

 

Posted

I have had to remove my starter twice. I was fortunate. Someone cut a slot in that bolt and I was able to remove it with a Big screwdriver.

Posted

I think you are right @p15-1948 the larger ratchet head won’t fit down around the curvature of the cast starter nose come. 
 

There is a bright side to all the cussing and fighting with said starter bolt.  It builds character, confidence and experience in us. Also removing the starter was a lot easier than replacing the engine rear crank seal and oil pan gasket.  You’ll learn why and more details on that in my next upcoming You Tube video. Coming soon. 

  • Like 3
Posted
37 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

It builds character, confidence and experience in us.

 

If my starter ever needs replaced I will have my son do it.  He needs the character, lol.

  • Like 4
  • Haha 2

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