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Merle Coggins

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  1. Merle Coggins's post in Transmission Identification help was marked as the answer   
    Yes, that's likely the casting date of the case. I've never seen a model ID listed for these transmissions. They're just New Process 4 speeds. I believe the later version is refered to as the NP420. Non-synchro vs. synchronized transmissions refers to how the sliding gears function. In the early spur gear, non-synchronized transmissions the gears have straight cut teeth and there are no synchronizers to aid in shifting. With these transmissions you need to learn the art of double clutching your shifts. The later, synchronized, version was introduced into the Dodge trucks in '51. This transmission has helical cut gear teeth for quieter operation and syncronizers on 3rd and 4th gears for easier shifting. Pretty much all modern transmissions are of this synchronized type now. 
     
    Another way to know the difference, and how I identified this one, is that on the earlier spur gear units the PTO drive was ahead of the fill/level plug whereas the later, synchronized, units have the PTO moved rearward with the fill/level plug towards the front. 
  2. Merle Coggins's post in Bed differences was marked as the answer   
    Your B3C and B4C should have the same size bed, but the bed board layout in the B4 will be a bit different. More boards, and narrower each. The B3B would have the narrower, and shorter, bed than the 3/4 ton versions. 
  3. Merle Coggins's post in 52 rear drum brakes for 1/2 ton was marked as the answer   
    You need the proper drum/hub puller to get the drums off. They are on a tapered shaft and will be tight. 
  4. Merle Coggins's post in Rear Axle WMS Measurement? was marked as the answer   
    If you don't run the nut on tight they should come back off without an issue. Just set them onto the axles and measure. Shouldn't be off my more than a 1/4" or so.
  5. Merle Coggins's post in Starting problems was marked as the answer   
    That is NOT normal. A fully charged 6 volt battery should have 6.3 volts and you should never see the voltage drop to 3.8 when trying to crank. Either the battery has no capacity or only has a good surface charge. Another possibility is that the engine can't rotate and the starter is stalling out causing a high current draw, which will pull down the voltage, but not that badly.
     
    Have your battery load tested and check that the engine can be rotated by hand. Either by putting a wrench on the crank pulley and cranking it over, or by turning the fan blade with the belt tight. You could also get under the car, drop the clutch inspection cover and try prying the against the ring gear with a large screwdriver/pry bar.
     
    Merle
  6. Merle Coggins's post in Back, Clutch & Pressure Plates, A Whole Lotta Shakin' was marked as the answer   
    It looks to me that your "used" clutch disc doesn't have an even friction surface and is causing the chatter as it engages. Basically it grips and slips until it is fully clamped down by the clutch.
     
    Merle
  7. Merle Coggins's post in 1948 B-1-C Brake Help was marked as the answer   
    Is the groove you reference in the seal area or in the bearing area? If it's on the seal surface you can use a Speedi-sleeve to make a smooth surface for the seal. They are sold by size, so you'll have to measure the diameter with a good caliper or micrometer.
     
    If they are in the bearing area you should be able to polish it smooth and go with it, as long as the bearings still fit well on the spindles.
     
    Merle
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