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Everything posted by SteveR

  1. I have had this problem. First check your fluid level in the master cylinder. Top-up if necessary. You might want to pull your drums and see if there is any brake fluid that has gotten on the shoes. Look at the drum surface and see if it has glossed over. If so, rough up the surface using sandpaper for a temp fix. Make sure the seals are good and not leaking grease from the wheel bearings. Replace drum, bearing and nut. Tighten nut to proper tension and install a new pin. Now adjust the eccentrics. You might want to bleed each wheel cylinder or at least check them. The bleeding usually takes 2 people unless you have a bleeding kit. The above is not difficult and can easily be done by anyone.
  2. The reason for a 2 circuit system here is: The horn requires a higher current (amperage) to operate. So it requires a larger gauge wire. Red). Therefore the control circuit (green) is low amperage and has a thinner wire. If you were to operate the horn without the relay you would quickly burn out the horn switch and possibly melt the thin wire insulation. I doubt that it would catch fire but best not to put it to the test
  3. I found this diagram on this site. With key on: 6vdc at 'S' means you have voltage from ignition to the coil of the relay. This does not rule out the horn button. When the horn button is depressed that closes the circuit and the relay should click. If audible. You say you have voltage at 'B' indicating a voltage to the contacts of the relay. When the horn button is depressed the coil energizes and closes the contacts at 'H' you should have 6vdc at 'H' and horn will sound. If voltage at 'H' and no horn sound. check continuity between 'H' and horn. If no voltage at 'H' look for a fuse. If the fuse is ok (check with a meter) the contacts are bad Check continuity at the Horn Button no continuity when at rest. Good reading when depressed There are 2 circuits here; the horn button, and the other, the horn. The button (Green) controls the horn circuit (Red). Hope this helps
  4. You should have 12vdc to the relay when the horn ring is depressed. If not then see if you have 12vdc going to the horn ring. If yes then check to see if you have 12vdc coming to the contacts of the relay. If yes then you should have 12vdc out from the contacts to the horn. The horn ring will close the contacts of the relay allowing voltage to go to the horn. What car is this out of?
  5. I had that same problem. Simple adjustment and your good to go.
  6. SteveR

    39 Tranny?

    I have sorted out my tranny. My car is a 37 Plymouth with a 39 dodge tranny (painted on the side with yellow junkyard paint) and 40 Syncro rings. As soon as my mainshaft comes from America I can then put it all back together. This should be the end of Aug to early Sept. I can't wait.
  7. My Cuda had the 225 slant 6 with auto tranny. I use to get 27 mpg. Dark blue in color with lt blue interior. She always started in the winter even in -27 degree temps. I didn't really care for the styling back then but she was the best car I have ever owned with the exception of my 1990 Dodge Dakota Pick-up with 2.5L 4 cylinder 5 speed.
  8. My dash was done by the previous owner. He hydro-dipped it with good results.
  9. I got my license at 16 in 1969 so that makes me 39. (you do the math). My Dad always had Mopars. I learned on a 1960 Valiant with 3 on the floor. My first car was a 1965 Plymouth Barracuda with no power anything. I put 80K on her and had it for 10 years. We were inseparable but rust became a big problem in Minnesota. Then came a 74 Dodge Charger. Wow power steering and power brakes and a V8! Then came newer cars. I guess through the years you get acclimated to the new car driving sensation. no road feel, tight suspensions (no sway on turns). My current car is a KIA Ceed. Then I bought a 1937 Plymouth. I remembered the fun I use to have driving and the do's and don'ts because of the suspension. I'm not fast but I have never owned a car that consistently puts a smile on my and my wife's face when driving or having people ask about our car. For me our 37 Plymouth is my first choice for driving and would rather drive that car than any other car including any modern car.
  10. I didn't know that Thanks. I have had problems with Andy Bernbaum lately. They are slow to answer e-mails if at all. An order of mine never appeared and they waited 3 months before they did anything about it. Then their shipping to England is a flat rate $65. Even if its a small part like the Throughout bearing spring ($4.50) it will cost me $65 shipping.
  11. I don't think you have the room to fit that one. Also there is no flange.
  12. here's one on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183154674098 $23.40
  13. SteveR

    39 Tranny?

    Upon further research, I may have a 692686 main shaft. Does anyone know if this shaft is 10.5" long?
  14. I have a dilemma. My car is a 37 Plymouth with a 51 230 engine and what appears to be a 39 tranny with 40 synchro rings. I am in need of the main shaft due to the journal being worn. I have looked online and it looks like I might have a 39 main shaft (665469), but I have 2 grooves and what I see on ebay is only 1 groove for the synchro and 2nd gear. I have attached photos of my main shaft. What is the correct shaft for my tranny? My shaft measures 10.5" long. The 3rd picture is my clutch gear and synchro rings and 3 broken stops. Any help will be appreciated Steve
  15. What a weight has been lifted from your shoulders. Well done!
  16. Resistor plugs help suppress spark plug noise, a valuable trait under certain circumstances. However I had a 1965 Plymouth Barracuda with a 225 slant 6. I did not use resister plugs and my AM radio worked fine with no interference from the plugs. I had problems with the FM band and resister plugs were needed.
  17. Do you get any voltage at the horn?
  18. They look a bit rusty so I would clean them up so you have a good ground. There isn't anything perishable inside so they should be good to go. Nice touch for a concourse event.
  19. I think it is more of a regional thing. I am an American born and bred in Minnesota. I moved to England in 97 with my English wife. Some modern starters used a solenoid to fire the pinion gear into the flywheel. There was a switch at the end that closed the contacts to turn the starter motor. So when you talked about the solenoid and not knowing what type of starter was used in your car I assumed you had a solenoid on the starter. Thanks for the clarification. My mind is resting at ease now. Have you changed the solenoid/relay yet and if so what was the outcome?
  20. What you are calling a solenoid is actually a 'Relay' 'Solenoids' are electromagnets. Relays use a solenoid to open or close contacts. Relays are electronic switches. Solenoids are not switches. It sounds like your 'Relay' is not the right one because you have mentioned it is 'clicking' I would install your new 6vdc relay
  21. So the relay is clicking correct? It sounds like a voltage/amperage problem to the coil of the relay. Check for a poor ground connection or too small gauge of wires and your voltage underload.
  22. I have a 1937 Plymouth and my starter is foot operated. I manually engage the starter gear to the flywheel So I am a bit confused. Do you have a solenoid on the starter that engages the starter gear to the flywheel or are you calling the relay on the inner fender the Solenoid?
  23. I'm wondering what your oil filter looks like and what's in the bottom of your oil pan?
  24. I would still drop the oil pan and have a look at it and then have a good look up inside your engine. Gray powder sounds like ground metal. Perhaps a possible engine rebuild. You might want to pull the head. Something is drastically wrong in your engine.
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