SteveR

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have not had the time to look at the master cylinder when I had a request for my car down in London. I said a temporary goodbye yesterday to her for about a month. I can't say any more but will keep everyone posted when this ban is lifted. It's pretty cool.

I think I mentioned that on a 6-mile trip all 4 wheel were staying on. So much so that when I came to a rest at home, all 4 brakes were smoking. I will check for kinks or restrictions before I remove the Master cylinder. I have had this car for 8 years and have not had this problem before. Saying that, I do not believe the MC has ever been looked at, so to ease my mind, I will take it apart before I buy anything.

Thanks Sbonesteel, I have had this adjustment to the extreme. The manual says about 1/4-3/8" freeplay at the pedal I have gone beyond this with no effect. I did crack open one of the rear cyl bleed screw and oil shot out. Telling me there is pressure in the line even after adjusting the pedal free play. It looks like removal of the master cylinder is in order to access the ports, seals, and spring. This problem all of a sudden appeared which makes me think it might be the spring. Where can I get the repair kit. I will not use Andy Bernbaum as they have a flat rate shipping charge of $65 to England. As long as I have this master cylinder out I might as well rebuild it.

I have just taken my 37 plymouth out for a drive and all 4 brakes are staying on. I adjusted the play on the master cylinder and no luck. Because all 4 brakes are staying on I suspect the Master cylinder. Is there a rebuild kit for this?

I had a problem with the head on my Land Rover Discovery where I had white smoke from the exhaust. It had an acidic smell to it not at all oily. I'd check your head bolts

You reminded me of a comment by Jay Leno, 'its better to have grease on your shirt than lipstick on your collar'

My plans this winter is to look at my steering box on my 37 Plymouth which is the same as yours. In viewing it, there are 2 possibilities. Car jacked up and out the front or removing part of the floor where the steering column goes through the firewall and go through the cabin. Either way it looks like you have to remove the brake lines to the sender unit. The next question is what about parts if needed. Are they available?

Yes my car is under a car cover. I was wondering about keeping the windows open a bit. I will give that a try, along with Merle's suggestion of DampRid

Now that we are getting into the cold season. Here in England it gets rather damp and as my 1937 Plymouth must stand outside under cover. I need to keep the interior dry to prevent mold. Any suggestions?

'E' Looks like self-tappers and the washers look like lock washers. Because they are so corroded, could this be for the Body?

I did replace one og the lower freeze plugs earlier this year. I was surprised to see very little gunk in there. It only came up the bottom of the plug. I now have another lower plug to replace and we will see what that holds.

This perhaps has been talked about before and I think it is a problem we all experience with these aging cars. Recently I have had overheating problems with Miss Daisy. Traveling 10 miles was ok as long as I kept her to 40 mph, but that has been getting worse and worse and when we hit temps in the upper 80s that distance was around 3-5 miles. I tried the vinegar trick with many flushings that did little. It got so bad that I did a wedding where I had to travel 5 miles to pick up the bride, and the temp rose to 200°F. Then I had to travel about 10 miles through town to the event. Luckily, I made it, but as everyone left, I noticed I left a trail of water. What I did when I got home was I bought one of these: Cooling System Flushing Gun - Welzh Werkzeug. You hook up your garden hose and your compressor. I backed flushed the radiator and was amazed at the chunks that came out of the radiator filler. I then was able to drive her to a car show 10 miles away in 88 degree temps and the car temp stayed at 185. At least I do not need a new radiator and it was an easy fix.

It seems to me that if you have removed the oil pan, why not remove the head and remove pistons 3 & 4 and inspect the cylinder walls, rings, con rods, etc

LOL I had a 65 Barracuda like that. I kept a small notepad in the glove box. Saying that I still ran out of gas on the occasion.

I don't see the point. If you believe you are getting an uneven temp somewhere, buy an IR temp gun. That will give you a reading in any place you point it.