Jump to content

Merle Coggins

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Merle Coggins last won the day on October 26

Merle Coggins had the most liked content!

About Merle Coggins

  • Birthday 03/29/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Menasha, WI
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge B-2-C-116


  • Location
    Waukesha, WI
  • Interests
    Motorcycling, working on my truck

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Technical trainer for a Construction Equipment Dealership

Recent Profile Visitors

8,990 profile views
  1. They attach to the front cab mounts and the front of the running boards. This is the best pic I have.
  2. I agree with what Brian and Mark said. Your picture doesn't show the damage to the exhaust manifold. You are showing us the casting number on your intake manifold.
  3. Is that Ed's truck? He didn't want to take it up to the cabin this year?
  4. Use your timing light to set the ignition timing to TDC using the markings on the crankshaft damper/pulley. With today's gas many people will advance that some. I run my truck at 5* BTDC. To be able to check the advance at 2240 RPM you either need to have marks on the damper/pulley that you can read at that advance, or use a timing light with an advance setting. The light I have has a dial on the back. As I increase the RPM I can turn the dial to keep the TDC mark in view. The dial will register how much advance you are getting. Either #1 or #6 will work for checking the ignition timing as they are both at TDC at the same time. One will be at the end of it's compression stroke and the other will be at the end of it's exhaust stroke. I've also heard guys recommend just clamping your timing light pickup to the coil wire to get a brighter light. I've tried it and that works too. It's not really brighter, but it's flashing 6 times faster so it appears brighter.
  5. There was a guy on the forums here many years ago that has a Pilot-House truck with a slant 6. He was in northern IL, so I went down to meet him and check out his truck. It was well done. He didn't have any info on the swap as he bought it that way. It didn't look out of place in the engine compartment. I don't recall if the firewall was notched to allow for the extra length.
  6. Sounds good to me. Are you going to build it for me? I don’t have the space for that type of project anymore.
  7. Nice project. Look for a casting date on the block, down on the skirt area. That’ll confirm it for you. If it has a ‘50’s casting date it couldn’t be from a ‘37, or vice verse.
  8. I have a 2020 F150 XLT with that same trailer back-up assist. I've never set it up. I learned how to back up a trailer a long time ago. My truck (actually a company truck) has the 3.5L Ecoboost engine. It has surprisingly good towing power, but it gets thirsty if you tow anything big. We currently only have a popup camper, but have been considering upgrading to a travel trailer some day. I just need to not get too big. I carry a fair amount of weight in the tool box, so I have to be conscious the tongue weight. I don't want to exceed my GVRW too much.
  9. I'm in the Appleton area, but we get up that way at least once a year. We usually do a camping week/weekend at Clear Lake Campground just east of Woodruff.
  10. @46Chris, where are you located up north? Maybe I'll see it cruising around next summer?
  11. They probably saw the shift lever on the steering column and assumed that it was an automatic trans, not knowing about "3 on the tree" shifting.
  12. I ended up using short pieces of line at the carb and distributor and connected the two with a piece of vacuum hose. If you do that you could purchase a short pre-made piece of brake line and but 2-3 inches off each end. Connect those ends to the vacuum advance and carb fitting, then use vacuum hose to finish the connection. No need to worry about how long to get the brake line, or worry about how, or where, to make the bends. I would also recommend testing the vacuum advance as someone else said.
  13. Sounds like it could be a failing throw out bearing.
  14. Oddly enough, that’s called a drag link socket. They’re not too expensive. It would be a worthwhile purchase if you plan to do drag link work.
  15. Nice acquisition. Based on the short running boards this would have been a cab/chassis truck from the beginning. So it was likely a flat bed truck all along.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use