Merle Coggins

Looks like they may be taking down the Nash sign in place of the new American Motors signage.

So, it would seem that this switch doesn’t illuminate, as I always though. Upon further inspection it is not a bulb socket. And the inside of the knob is all brass, so there is no way for the light to get out. I’m sure I’ve seen some of these heater fan switches that would glow when turned on. I guess this isn’t one of those. Oh well… I guess I have a stash of #51 bulbs now.

Common occurrence up here in the North... I can't count the number of times I've seen Robins get snowed on in the spring. (Photo from the internet)

Thanks guys. I have some 51 bulbs ordered up. Should have them today. In fact I just checked my Amazon account and it shows that they are sitting on the porch. I'll give one a test fit after work today.

Later model for the Clampets... including the rocking chair for Granny...

Does anyone know the bulb number for these heater fan switches? Mine never had one as long as I’ve had this truck. I’d like to add one, but not sure what fits in there.

I agree, use pipe dope on your head bolts.

I don't believe aerodynamics plays much of a factor in this application.

Was yours the Daytona or the block of butter?

The easier swap is likely a rear diff, or axle upgrade. I was able to acquire a 3.73 diff out of a '50 Plymouth that was pretty much a direct replacement into my axle. I can cruise at 70+ when needed, but sometimes I wish I could drop the ratio slightly to gain a little more drive up steeper grades. A Jeep Cherokee axle seems to be a popular swap. Many have installed 5 speed overdrive transmissions, such as the Borg Warner T-5 out of S-10's and other vehicles. If you search the forums there are several threads on that upgrade. The Mopar 833 OD 4 speed, mentioned earlier, is also an option. Again, search the forums. there are only a couple threads on that one, but they're out there. An OD trans with your 4.10:1 diff would be a good package.

That appears to be a later replacement switch, as it has the Pentstar logo on it. Does it have identifying markings for each terminal that may help? You may need to do some testing with an ohm meter, or continuity meter, to determine which terminals are connected at each switch position. I happened to have a picture of the underside of the dash on my truck that shows the switch, but there isn't enough detail to see where the wires all go. Here's a snip from a PDF copy of service manual, wire diagram. This may, or may not, help you.

This time of year when it hits 60's we open up the doors and windows and enjoy the weather.... perspective... 😉

When I pulled my engine, in a similar condition, I removed the transmission along with the clutch and brake pedals. I was then able to pull the engine out with the bell housing attached. This is tricky as the steering column interferes with things a bit. But it'll come out. I then laid the block on it's side, on a solid bench and removed the crankshaft out the bottom with the Fluid Drive attached. I could then access all of the FD nuts to separate the FD and Crank. Then a lot of cleaning with wire wheels and flapper sanding drums, and a lot of penetrating oil. I was finally able to drive all of the pistons out with a BFH and a block of wood. Then I focused on the valves. I gripped the cam sprocket with a large channel lock pliers and rotated it back and forth, a little at a time, until all of the valves were stuck open. I could then tip the block upside down and slide the came out, followed by the tappets. I then hammered the valves back closed to remove the keepers and springs. Then, with the aid of a long punch, I drove the valves up and out of the block. Then I hauled it all to a machine shop where they bored it, decked the block and milled the head, replaced the valve guides and seats, as they were also trashed. They provided the pistons and rings when I picked it all up. I then reassembled it and it's been a solid engine ever since.

Did you do a disc brake conversion on the front axle? If so this will require shortening the tie rod. At least that was the case with my Rusty Hope kit. The caliper mounting plate moves the steering arms inboard and I found that my tie rod didn't have enough adjustment to compensate for this. I ended up trimming off an equal amount off of each end and reinserting the tie rod ends. This gave me the adjustability that I needed.

I have not seen that type of filter canister with a bolt on lid, but if you can identify the proper filter cartridge there's no reason why it won't work for you. As you said, many filters were aftermarket installs on these trucks. You'll need to determine which ports on the filter canister are Inlet and Outlet and make up new lines to connect to your engine. I took your photo and labeled the plugs for you as you seemed unsure how to connect it. You may also want to search for the correct coil mounting bracket as this one seems to be home made.