Merle Coggins

Oil filters were an option for these trucks and many left the factory without one. My truck didn't have a filter when I got it. I found one on ebay to put on it as I was building it. There have been many that have plumbed in modern spin-on filters. They're probably better than nothing, but most filter elements used are made for full flow applications and don't have the fine filter media typically used in bypass filters. Also, a bypass filter needs to have a restriction built in to limit the amount of oil flow going through the filter. This prioritizes the oil feed to the critical engine components. The Chrysler flat head engines have this build into the oil pressure regulator, to restrict the return flow from the bypass filter if the oil pressure drops. But I would still use a restricted fitting in the system to limit the flow if you end up using a full flow type filter element. Amsoil has bypass filter kits for several applications, including a 'Universal' kit. https://www.amsoil.com/p/universal-single-remote-bypass-system-bmk21/ It's not cheap, but I know Amsoil sells quality stuff.

Did DCM stamp the numbers in for you too? My truck hasn't had a tag since I got it. I should probably get one.

Here's a couple pics from my B2C, which should be similar to your B2D Springs at the rear mount Bolted solid to the bottom of the cross member at the front.

Did you try tightening the belt, then try to rotate with the fan? I've also had success turning an engine with the fan by pressing in on the belt to get a better bite on the pulley's while turning the fan.

🤣 That Bucket Seat did the trick, but it also added a bit of a hazard. My carb wasn't tuned correctly yet at that point and it had a nasty hesitation when opening the throttle. It would bog for a second then take off suddenly causing me, and the bucket, to rock back. (accelerator pump jet was plugged) If it wasn't for the rigid steering column and wheel to hold on to I'd have probably fallen over backwards and got myself run over.

The tank should be mounted solid to the front cross member with a couple of bolts. The rear mount will have the springs. The tank lip should rest on top of the mount bracket and the bolts with springs are there to allow for frame twist without twisting the tank. There should be spacers inside the springs to allow the bolts to tighten against the tank flange without fully compressing the springs.

There were many things unsafe about that. Turn signals were the last of my concerns. 😉

Sounds perfectly normal to me… 😁

Welcome to the ‘family’, Carl, When I got my truck the engine was in worse shape than yours. It was also seized tight. The head had already been removed and there was some concoction of ATF and who knows what in the cylinders. There was also a fair amount of water that had filled them again. My truck also has Fluid Drive and since I couldn‘t rotate the crank I couldn’t get all of the nuts off to detach it. So I laid the engine on it’s side (didn't have an engine stand at the time), removed all of the bearing caps, and slid the crank out the bottom. Once it was out I could easily remove the FD coupling. Then I went to work on the cylinders. I used a wire wheel and a flapper wheel sanding drum to remove as much of the rust scale as I could. I then used blocks of wood and a large hammer to get the pistons out. I first had to drive them down a little bit to get that last bit of rust scale, then I could drive them up and out. As Keith said, don’t beat on the rods to avoid any damage. The pistons will be replaced anyway, so they are sacrificial. Once I had the pistons out I turned my focus to the valves. They were also seized tight into the valve guides. The heads and valve seats were also badly rusted. I used my large Channel Lock pliers to grip the cam sprocket and I was able to turn it back and forth a little at a time until all valves had been pushed fully open. That allowed me to remove the camshaft and tappets. Then I could hammer the valves back closed. A couple of valve heads snapped off at that time as I wasn’t being careful to save them. Once closed again I could remove the springs. Then I used a long punch to drive the valves out from the bottom. I took everything to a local engine/machine shop. At 0.030” over bore the cylinders cleaned up enough to be useable. There were still a few small pits in the cylinder walls but it hasn’t effected it’s ability to run. He also replaced the damaged valve seats and guides, decked the block and milled the head. I reassembled it with new pistons, valves, and etc. It’s been running great for nearly 18 years.

I believe there isn't a bushing on the clutch pedal because it isn't designed to move on the shaft except when making an adjustment. The bracket that is keyed to the shaft locks onto the pedal with a couple of adjusting screws. When you step down on the pedal it reacts with the bracket to rotate the shaft with it. The brake pedal, on the other hand, will rotate around the clutch shaft when depressed so it needs a bushing and grease. Some trucks do have bushings in their clutch pedals, such as on my truck. My truck has Fluid Drive and the clutch setup is different. My pedal rides on a fixed shaft along with the brake pedal. Both pedals have bushings and grease fittings. The clutch pedal then connects to an adjustable connecting rod that in turn connects to the clutch shaft.

I could only play the video on my iPhone. It wouldn't play on my Windows computer. It's a raging stream/creek

I've said it for years now... If sense was common more people would have it.

Hopefully some of the rain out there will also get into the Colorado River and help refill Lake Powell and Lake Mead

That key should come out. I even took a look in the parts book and it shows it as a separate part.

I know this engine has been discussed here in the past, but I just came across this YouTube video about it.