Merle Coggins

F.Y.I. This is the socket you’ll want/need. It has a 3/4” drive, so you may also want to have a 3/4”to 1/2” drive adapter.

That little notch in the drum is nice when adjusting your shoes. You can get a visual on what your clearances are as you spin the drum. I wish the smaller trucks had those. As for removing the axle shaft, I usually give the center of the end cap a smack with a hammer, after removing the nuts, and it will usually pop out slightly. If not, then you can use those other two holes with pusher bolts to pull it out. Once you get that out you will see the retainer nuts. There's an outer lock nut, locking washer, and inner nut. They are 8 sided, as I remember. I bought a socket for them when I was helping Kris with his brake job. They're not that expensive. If you don't have the socket wrench a hammer and punch/chisel is often used to remove the lock nut. The socket just makes it easier, and more professional. Pretty simple... much like removing the front drums once you get to that part.

You got yourself one of them fancy ventilated blocks... 😏

If you plan on converting to Pertronix in the future I would recommend using their plug wires. That way you'll know you have good stuff for now, and they will be compatible when you make the swap.

You need to prime the pump as it is now empty. Best way to do that, without removing the pump from the engine, is to pack the rotor cavities with assembly lube, or Vaseline. This will allow the pump to pull up oil from the sump and start pumping again. The assembly lube, or Vaseline, will break down in the oil and won’t cause any damage.

I had a similar issue when I swapped out my differential for a 3.73 diff. When I went to reinstall the driveshaft I couldn’t get it into the yolk. I’m still unsure how I got it out on disassembly if it was that tight. Must have been some pry bar action. With a bare frame, no cab or bed installed, there wasn’t enough weight to compress the springs so the axle was in it’s most forward position. Anyway... I was working in the heavy equipment shop where I work, so I looked around for some weight to set on the frame to compress the springs so that axle would move rearward. An excavator bucket did the trick. I lowered it down onto the frame with the overhead crane until I achieved enough movement to get the job done. Also, looking at your u-joint it seems to be a combo unit with external circlips on one half and internal circlips on the other half. You’ll need to remove those internal clips to get it set into the drive yolk. And I believe the only place you’ll find those retainer brackets would be from another truck.

If the IAT 4011 is in good condition, why not just clean up that one and use it in your truck?

Reminds me of a story... Several years ago I was riding my Gold Wing down in Tennessee, coming up US441 into Gatlinburg. We were slowly catching a group of Harley riders and I soon realized that we would catch up to them right at the entrance to a tunnel. You can probably guess what they started doing. Well... I happened to have a set of air horns on my Wing, so I thumbed the horn button and held it until I came out the other end of the tunnel. When I exited the tunnel I let off the horns and keyed up the CB mic to say, to my riding buddy behind me, “I can make noise too.” He was laughing so hard he could hardly talk, but he managed to let me know those Harley guys got off the throttles and were looking around trying to figure out where the truck was. He had the same thought as we approached the other riders, and the tunnel, and he knew what I was going to do.

If you got the numbers off the bearing cone and cup, source new bearings according to those numbers. Don't rely on Amazon to tell you if they are correct for your axle. Their reference list probably doesn't go back that far. Take those Timkin numbers to your local Napa, or bearing house and get a new set.

I had a similar higher RPM issue after I changed out a set of points and didn't get the spring locked in place right. I discovered when it got over around 1500 RPM the engine would lose power. Upon further inspection I found that the ignition timing would get very erratic and retard greatly over that speed. A close review of my recent work discovered the miss-installed spring. Without the spring the points would float at higher speeds. Once that was corrected, and the dwell and timing reset, it ran like a top. Another possible cause would be fuel starvation due to clogged jets, or a fuel supply issue. But I would check the ignition first.

Low compression on #3, and excessive blow-by, would tend to indicate bad rings on #3 piston. They may just be stuck in their grooves due to extended time of non running, and may loosen up after a few more heat cycles. Or not... Maybe give it another Seafoam treatment and drive it around for a month to see what happens. (I'm all for doing simple things first) If it continues after that you may need to do a partial tear down of the engine to free, or replace, the rings on that hole. If valves were the issue you'd likely have a miss-fire, or rough running engine, and that wouldn't cause excessive blow-by. My oil pressure typically sits at just over 40 when driving down the road. 50-60 does sound a bit high, with hot oil. A sticky relief valve could very well be the culprit there too. Maybe the Seafoam treatment will help with that as well??? Otherwise you'll have to try to extract it and clean it up.

I did the same. I believe they’re called Binding Post bolts, or screws. I got them at my local hardware store.

I wouldn't put that in the "rose" category either... more like an invasive weed...

Since your truck is a military vehicle, and seeing the air filter at the oil fill pipe, I would suspect your engine would have had a a PCV setup instead of a draft tube. but if you want to use a draft tube it would have to be long enough to hang down in the air stream below the engine so that it can pull the gases out, as mentioned earlier. The also have a diagonal cut at the end with the long side towards the front.

There's no oil up in the head, or anywhere near the head bolts. Anything coming through the head bolts would be coolant.