Merle Coggins

You may need to do some continuity tests with an ohm meter. That top coiled yellow wire should be what connects to your coil. Check that it is not grounded out to the distributor case. That wire, the condenser wire, and the points conductor strap should all be connected at that screw. I believe you said you corrected the points conductor from this picture. When the points are open there should be no continuity from that terminal to the distributor case (ground) When the points are closed there should be continuity between the terminal and the case. This will confirm that the points are working

Some distributors are reversed from others for what ever reason. Thus the need for different internal parts and the need to identify them by your distributor number. Once again, I suggest you double check/set our points gap with the rub block sitting on the peak of the cam lobe, as shown in Sniper’s picture. Your earlier picture showed the gap extremely wide. I suspect the gap was inadvertently set initially with the rub block on the flat part of the lobe, when they should be closed.

Yes. It was built by Austin for Nash/AMC. It has an Austin 1500cc engine.

Almost looks like an oversize version of my wife's Metropolitan. 😁

Looks like the road is blocked...

Just sent me a message with the Private Message feature of the forum.

Yes, the pitman arm needs to be clocked correctly on the shaft. A couple of center punch marks will help with realignment when reinstalling. And you’ll need a pitman arm puller to get it off.

8 hole cranks do not have symmetric holes either. There is one that is slightly off from the rest so that my Fluid Drive would only go on one way.

That looks like a standard pulley. There are a couple different size hand crank nuts, but as Andy mentioned you will need a rather large socket. There will be 2 puller holes. One can be seen in your photo. Be careful when threading in the bolts for your puller. It's very easy to thread them into the front cover / seal. You'll likely want to replace the seal anyway once you have the pulley off, but you don't want to damage the front cover in the process. It might be tight quarters in there for a puller without pulling out the radiator.

Did you set that gap with the points on the tip of the lobe, as shown in the picture, or with the points rub block down on the flat part of the cam? If you were adjusting with the points resting on the flat part that would explain the large looking gap now with it up on the lobe. If that's the case the points will never close to activate the coil. Recheck your points gap with the points rub block resting on the very tip of the cam lobe.

There was a thread on the forum not too long ago (may have been on the car side) regarding a clutch issue after replacing the clutch disc. It seems that the new disc had a larger center spring hub that interfered with the pressure plate. I don't recall all of the details. But then again, as you eluded to, you may just be hearing 'normal' clutch engagement that you wouldn't normally hear with all of the panels in place.

I can be in Cottage Grove in under 2 hours if you need me to rough 'em up a bit... 💪 Just kidding, I'm not that kind of guy. But we got your back. We want to see that truck back on the road too.

Doesn't your wife have a connection to Superior, WI? It's nice up there too.

@Brent B3B, you don't like my 'sparse' interior? The heater wasn't working, but the A/C worked awesome that day. 🤣

It sounds like they got you over a barrel. I would ask them for a hard quote on what the body, paint, and interior work will entail, and cost. From that you can negotiate what work you need done now and what could wait until later. If you have a written quote as to what is going to be done, and what the price will be you can then hold their feet to the fire (so to speak). That would be much better than an open ended agreement to "keep it within my budget", but then "you should add this, or that", which blows out the budget.