DJ194950

Heck, that visor alone would probably bring ( based on asking prices anyway) on Ebay in the $3-450 range. Maybe more these days. Has been a while since I looked at them but other mopar prices have really gone up on there from several years ago. DJ

That number as shown is the factory part # of that side frame (L) piece. Is not the serial #. Saw the same type of #'s on two 50-51 Plymouths that I needed to do some repair/replace a section due to accident damage. the serial #'s were in the same general area and are Hand stamped and very much harder to read. DJ

Sniper, I think you are differently on the right track there! We had (back in the stone ages) electric battery powered scissor-lift type manlifts that were 12ft.x 14 ft. deck sizes that used 6-6 volt batteries that needed two young guys to but in place. They were wired up to run 36 volts and ran a motor that was quite large and it probably weight 100-150 lbs. to run a hydraulic pump for functions. Forklift or this type of lift solenoids will handle the continuous draws! AS seen they are available online. DJ

Also check for exhaust leaks around the manifolds. Much more noticeable at idle rpms. A cheap check, with paper held above and below exhaust and possibly try soapy water when still colder temps? Also check the manifold to exhaust pipe connection, often a problem area. DJ

A friend told me of his first use of a base/clear coat system and had problems because he tried to get the base coat to lay out shiny as he always did with earlier type paints and had all kinds of mottling in the paint. Why?. the base lays down flat and the clear makes the paint shine. Very different that 1 stage paints! Just a heads up- read the prep and application info sheet- usually easily available online by looking up the brand and type paint-looks for instructions, etc. DJ

Find one from a small American ?? vehicle and change the blower motors (probably older with mechanical controls?) with 6 volt changeover motors? DJ

Appears to me the rear main has four bolts with lock washers and the next cap to the right is a Wide rod cap with castle nuts on though rod bolts and cotter pins . Next cap to right another main bearing cap?? Heavy duty for sure. What does that motor weigh?? besides heavy! DJ

Smoke some of your wild weed?? Kiddin'. I know that is not your thing, nor mine these days (?) , but way back in the dark ages! DJ

Glad to see you bagged them! ? I was thinking maybe you had put a tarp in the trunk and piled/pushed them in there before looking at the last pic. Maybe leave the trunk lid up slightly while driving there to lighten the load. ? DJ

Might want to read up on bump steer and how to check. Tools for checking are available online with a web search-" bump steer checking tool". Much info/stories are there. Also tried to attach but had some brain fade and did not get it done. Longacre i think it was -had some checking/ teaching info and a reasonable price? tool. DJ

Check this Moper repair info out. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/025/page24.htm Hope this gives some help, and also see the many books that the imperialclub.com has! DJ

A I stated before-a pain without these special tools. I ended up after trying all my seal remover tools (many) and destroying much of the metal parts of the old seal I Finally resorted to the dermal tool with thin diamond coated bits to almost (grind) cuts thru the layers (close) in three I think it was and then back to the seal removers and got that damn seal out! Some idiot in the past had to have put some type of glue on the edge. DJ

Same seal as used in the 3 speed trans. The update single seal # is mentioned many times on this forum as "somewhere" I have it, but someone will have it easier to find than me! And post soon? The original seal type can to beyond impossible, no wonder they had special seal remover tools made by Miller and maybe others. I fought one in my trans for days! Others have reported close to the same but doable. Under a car I do not know but mine was all most impossible on the work bench- - Good luck! DJ

Perfect candidate to turn into a old taxi in appearance. The major color is done! Anyone? DJ

Always a phone call to verify correct parts for the early Mopars as they often changed specs once,twice, or more through the year as my friend found on his 37 Plymouth for steering parts. Old owner of Berbaums (-Andy -(oldmoparts.com) was helpful with info, Chris the new owner is said to be up on this also but no personal experience myself with him. DJ

That motor seems OK to fire up with those compression #'s. Change oil before and filter if one, check for spark, fix as needed plugs out, add fuel from container line to fuel pump intake line , check flow to carb Crank again-plugs out to check oil pressure with cranking only -also fuel flow to carb. disconnected from carb from line. to a catch container. reconnect if good. 15+ psi oil psi. and put it all together- prime carb with gas from can/squirt bottle/ start fluid (small amount only) - -good luck! Hope she starts up after new plugs installed. Enjoy! Do not worry about smoke for a while after starting. Watch temperatures. DJ

My oil filled air cleaner has a mix of high quality 60wt. and 20 wt. oils as I had both here and no current use for either.?? Working fine except when I removed the air cleaner and fumbled it spilling a bunch of oil on the cleaner and motor/floor as I needed to remove carb again after a couple years of the car just sitting/ ran occasionally but not driven. ? DJ

Got your own "sugar shack" as in a movie and song? ? DJ

They just need a Chevy implant with trans/ axles --- and you still get a worthless car worth way to much! ? Maybe some Fiat motor transplant? ☠️ DJ

Do you ( Texas and others) not have those sail powered races on sand - I think they were often 3 wheeled. Anymore? ? Seems that that would have been fun to do, except when you flipped over! ?

Bob, I cannot say about the 52 Plymouths had up front but the 49-50 Plymouths did Not have any rubber mounts in the front body mount position. Did you research this before purchase and install? I did not and my 50 Suburban and created issues with the front door alignment. According to parts books this car did Not have them there! Only had a bolt with large washers top and bottom. Still need to remove mine and try again, as I hope to soon get back to this stalled project-Real soon! DJ

Thanks for the reply. DJ

Check out used? Plus filters new. Prices seem reasonable. JMO. https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog Page 1 online catalog under engine. DJ

I was not really questioning your statement as I was sort of asking other members who have looked for such a rear-end in the Calif. central valley (3-400 mile area) to chime in if they have looked and what they found in the local yards, ratios/limited slip/prices /etc.? We Almost never see snow but have a lot of off-roaders/ skiers/ that may have purchased these vehicles in the past and may be in local junk yards. If anyone has looked, please respond. I hope to replace soon (hopefully) the current rear end in the 50 Suburban I have with something similar. The current rear end ( 7.5 GM) -while correct width etc. is a open rear gear set and worn out and Way to high geared!! Drum braked which is OK. but? Disc is better.?? Not worth the price to setup the way I would like! A GM small everything! DJ

Time to quit counting.$$ Fix as needed and drive it. Enjoy your work, Enjoy the hobby! ? DJ