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ChrisMinelli

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About ChrisMinelli

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Cranbrook

Converted

  • Location
    Illinois
  • Interests
    Cars, Music, Camping

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  1. Whoa! I will definitely take you up on that! The wife has me cleaning up the basement tonight but I plan on working on the car tomorrow. The weather is finally nice again and I don’t want too much downtime.
  2. Yes, it’s the same model! I’m surprised over that time period it didn’t change much.
  3. I’m getting ready to dig into my 52 Plymouth’s clutch and transmission for the first time because I’m having shifting problems. I am fairly confident about doing it myself (and if I break something it’s a project car anyway, I’ll just fix it) but I have some questions before I get started: 1. If my jack and jack stands only allow the car to be safely raised and supported at 14”, is that enough to wheel out the transmission on a cheap harbor freight jack stand? 2. How much does a Mopar transmission of this vintage weigh? 3. Besides the usual clutch related things, if I have the transmission out of the car should I replace any seals, etc not associated with the transmission? Im going to replace a leaky differential seal and check out the universal joint while I’m doing everything else, too. I’ll keep this thread going because I’m sure I’ll have questions as I go. Thanks in advance!
  4. Hello, I have a need to remove the front floor pans to access the transmission and clutch below. I found the attached image which seems to indicate the '52 floorboards are "not serviced." Does that mean they cannot be removed without cutting them out? I ask because the prior owner glued the carpet down so I'll have to destroy the interior to get the pans out, which isn't something I want to do if they are welded down or something. Thanks in advance!
  5. Haha, funny you should mention that. Some bonehead glued the carpet down in the car. Which I didn’t discover until I needed to access the master cylinder for the first time. That was fun.
  6. Thanks for the advice! A quick question / thought I just had -- I'm a hobbyist at best and will be learning this all as I go. If it takes me a few months to do this, is there anything I need to do with the rest of the car to keep it from deteriorating? Can the engine be started to idle while the transmission is out, to keep things flowing? Are the brakes and cylinders I just put in (new) going to leak and have problems from non-use?
  7. Keith -- thanks! It was great to get the car on the road but (of course) with these old cars something is always breaking. I did some more diagnosis this evening: I get a grinding and whining noise whenever the car is running and the clutch is depressed. I also can't shift gears at all when the car is running. Trying to shift makes a terrible grinding sound and I can feel strong vibrations in the shift knob and the clutch pedal. In order to get the car back into the garage for the night I had to turn off the engine; shift into reverse; and then start the engine to back up the car. This is significantly worse than it was this afternoon. So probably my next move is to check the pedal itself to see if it is binding; otherwise I am assuming I'll be dropping the transmission and getting very acquainted with old Mopar engineering while my wife and kid get irritated I'm taking up the entire garage for the summer.
  8. Hello, I drove my car today 140 miles round trip while working — very cool and I finally got to cruise a bit. However the clutch started slipping about 100 miles into the trip. It’s never done that before. I am assuming it needs to be replaced (as far as I know it could be decades old) but before I look into how to do that I thought I would ask to see if there is any other, less extensive thing I should be checking? 52 Plymouth, 3 on the tree. Original transmission if it matters. Thanks!
  9. Out of curiosity, do you bleed with the master cylinder refill cap on or off? I have been taught on modern cars to keep the cap off the master cylinder; I wanted to make sure the advice is the same for these old under-floor cylinders.
  10. So, do get back to my original post... 1.) Try bleeding again after I drive it a bit, and 2.) otherwise, just ignore it and the pedal will firm up with time?
  11. Hello, I just finished a brake job on my ‘52 Plymouth (new shoes, springs, and cylinders all around) according to the manual. I flushed the old fluid and bled the cylinders. I also got a brake adjustment tool from a member here and set the shoes appropriately as much as I could (the cams are a little wonky from age, but I’m within 0.12-0.15 inches of where I need to be). The car stops smoothly now but the pedal is quite soft. I bled the air out of all six cylinders. Is there a necessity to bleed the master cylinder in some way as well? The manual seemed to indicate the only time you need to do that is when removing or installing the master cylinder. Do drum brakes make the car stop less effectively than disc brakes? I’ve always driven rice burners with disc brakes in the past. Maybe it’s just me.
  12. How does the transmission lock the rear wheels when you turn off the engine in reverse or first gear? I’m doing some work on the car now (52 Plymouth) and I’m putting my rear drums back on. When I stopped the car I had it in reverse and turned off the ignition so the rear wheels locked. I shifted the car into neutral (up on jack stands) to rotate the rear wheels. I’m ready to put the drums back on and torque the axle nut but the rear wheels still spin when when I shift into reverse or first gear. Does the engine have to engage the transmission for the axle to lock in gear? Anything I can do without starting the car? Thanks!
  13. I was under the ‘52 Plymouth tonight working on the brakes and noticed a new drip from the differential. I’m hoping it’s just old and needs attention and doesn’t have anything to do with me having the car up on jack stands for a few weeks and no weight on the axle. Pinion seal? Should I fix it before I test drive it to check the new brakes?
  14. Do you guys suggest removing the brake backing plates and painting those with Rustoleum as well? If I am doing that to the suspension I may as well, right?
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