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About ChrisMinelli

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    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Cranbrook


  • Location
  • Interests
    Cars, Music, Camping

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  1. Does anyone have the OD and ID of the proper gasket? I ended up ordering one on eBay but I want to make a temporary one for this weekend out of cork. Thanks in advance!
  2. That's a great idea -- I was moving the carb around quite a bit to get the thing off.
  3. To answer the question -- I cleaned the air cleaner the way the service manual suggests. I took it off the carb; I drained the old oil out and cleaned it; I soaked the top part in solvent; I put SAE 30 back into the base (yeah I know it says SAE 50 but I'm not paying for racing oil for an oil bath); and then put the assembly back on the carb. So to gather from your comments: there may or may not be a gasket between the air cleaner and the carb. Mine did not have one, and it is running differently pre-clean (no gasket) and post-clean (also no gasket) so I'm thinking the gasket is
  4. Hello, I’m 2 parts rookie and 1 part dummy, and last weekend I cleaned my oil bath air cleaner for the first time. I reinstalled it and couldn’t get the engine to idle right to save my life. When the automatic choke was on it sounded fine. Otherwise, when the engine came up to temperature it sputtered and ran rough. The idle adjustment and mixture screws did literally nothing on the carb. I was tinkering with it tonight and when I loosened the oil bath’s bottom twist screw the car startled idling like new. Both carb adjustments worked properly. So I must h
  5. I've been looking for a running or non-running flathead 218 similar to the one in my Plymouth to just take apart and examine for educational purposes. I haven't had any luck, with one exception. The guy wanted $1800 for a non-running example, even though it did turn by hand. That seemed a little steep, as it was more than half what I paid for my entire car. Is that a normal price? What could I expect to pay for an extra engine? The way people on the forum talk these engines are just sitting by the side of the road free for the taking. I have had a tough time finding anything in Central
  6. I used the old gasket for now. It is made of cork from what I can tell. I’m going to pick up a single sheet of cork material from Hobby Lobby on Monday and make me a new one. This one lasted for 50+ years and I imagine mine will last as long. you would not BELIEVE the stuff that came out of that wire mesh during its overnight soak. These things work very very well.
  7. Also — the gasket that was around the center hole in the base crumbled in my hands. Is it necessary or can I leave it off? Thanks in advance.
  8. First time cleaning my air filter. Can somebody give me some confirmation I’m doing it right? Old oil drained and sludge cleaned out. The top filter element is soaking in mineral spirits over night and tomorrow morning I’ll let it air dry and reassemble with SAE 30. Is that right? The mineral spirits is what is throwing me off. The manual says kerosene but I don’t have any.
  9. I explored a long-closed junkyard last weekend and found a number of cool old mopars. I finally have a chance to get some complete flathead engines for cheap so I can take them apart, tinker, etc. The problem is the land is now a swamp due to a re-route of a local river and the corresponding changes to the water table. The owner won’t let me bring any equipment powered by a motor onto the property. I’ll have to pull the engines by hand and wheel them out. How can I do this? I’m afraid an A frame with a chain hoist will sink. (If I could even afford to buy one). Any o
  10. The guy at NAPA just tried to sell me an oil drain plug gasket for my 52 Plymouth. I have never used one. I use them religiously on my Honda (which leaks like a sieve if it doesn't have a gasket) and my wife's Toyota (which doesn't seem to care as much, but I use one anyways). Is a drain plug gasket a thing on these old cars?
  11. I use the Ames multimeter they sell at Harbor Freight for about $40. I don’t have the model number readily available but that’s the price point. It has performed very well for my needs and even has a temperature probe feature.
  12. Getting the car ready for the season, so I went and got my Wix ready to go and went to unscrew the cap... and found this. This is the first filter change I’m doing on this car. Is this one of those disposable models that doesn’t use the replaceable filter element? If it’s a disposable unit, I’m positive it hasn’t been changed in decades. The fella I bought the car from wasn’t big into maintenance. What possible issues would this cause, and if the bypass system is as useless as I’ve read can I get away with just leaving it alone and changing the oil frequently? Thanks
  13. I was looking at the speedometer cable for the first time on my car, and I can't for the life of me figure out how to lubricate it. I assume that white lithium grease is a good modern substitute for "Mopar Speedometer Lubricant." Do I just lubricate the tip at the transmission and the tip at the speedometer? Do I need to pull the whole thing out and lubricate that? The service manual just sort of assumes the reader knows how to do it, and it just tells you when to do it. Thanks!
  14. For what it's worth, I didn't know that or even think of it! Makes sense. Thanks for the tip!
  15. This is a dumb rookie question, but in my defense I’ve never owned a car that didn’t have coil packs and those are bad when... the computer says they are bad. (I know, I know). How can I tell if and when my spark plug wires are bad and need replacement? The guy before me didn’t bother putting boots on them (!) so I want to change them out eventually anyway. I don’t want to do it this year if it’s not necessary though. If I check each wire for resistance, what is a good number? Is there another way to determine if they are good?
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