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ChrisMinelli

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About ChrisMinelli

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Cranbrook

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  • Location
    Illinois
  • Interests
    Cars, Music, Camping

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  1. If I am looking at the valves from the passenger side of the car (rear to my left, front to my right) this is the correct arrangement of exhaust (E) and intake (I) valves, right? Thanks in advance.
  2. I’m working on getting all the instruments in my 52 Plymouth to work and after replacing and fiddling with the tank sending unit I grounded it with a jumper wire and the fuel gauge worked like a charm. The manual seems to think the retaining ring itself is enough of a ground for the unit. I’ve cleaned and tightened it and I think the tank itself is no longer grounded. (It’s on my list to replace but until then I’d like a working fuel gauge). Is there a place I could run a ground wire to in the trunk? My initial thought is that I could just ground it to the trunk but I don’t think
  3. That’s a great idea. An old timer told me once, if you are alone and working on the car, to do it in silence. Not even a radio. That way you can hear all the moans and groans of the car when you are working on it and avoid problems before they happen. I am a metalhead and usually listen to music at obnoxious levels so I took it to heart. Even with a radio doing the news your attention will be on the days events and not on the creaking Jack stand that is about to give way.
  4. On an older car, how do you know if you have a dead cylinder or a spark plug that isn't firing? On a modern car the computer tells me (yeah I know...) I ask because it occurred to me I may be missing something important and not even know it. I assume it would run rough enough for me to know something is amiss?
  5. When I was in the service we were expecting three new enlisted to join the unit. I got a call from a Sgt. halfway across the country the day before who was working in a recruitment office. One of my new guys was sitting in his waiting room with his orders on his lap not knowing what to do, because he had MapQuest’d the drive that morning (dating myself there) and realized there was no way he was going to make the morning muster without driving all night at 200 mph. Needless to say once he showed up he was not the brightest star in the sky.
  6. The regular simple green or the simple green d? I have heard mixed reviews of the regular simple green.
  7. Hello, A search of this forum yielded some thoughts on using ultrasonic cleaners for carb cleaning / rebuilding. They are all 8+ years old so I thought I’d ask if there are any updated techniques or products out there. I’m tearing down my carb and it is gunked bad. I am thinking of getting a Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner and using a 50/50 Pine Sol and distilled water solution in it. Does anyone have experience with that or a different solution? Should I just do it the “old fashioned” way and get a gallon of mineral spirits? (I don’t think I
  8. Excellent, thanks for the photos and explanation, Keith!
  9. Is the crankshaft bolt a 1 9/16? I thought I read in one of my books that it was but my socket doesn’t want to fit. Would be good to know before I buy one tomorrow. Can’t find my calipers.
  10. Oh I should note the photo is a screenshot of a video I found. My manifold will be (and still is) on the car.
  11. Hello, I managed to get a heater for my garage so I’m spending this weekend doing a full tune up on the Plymouth. My goal is: 1.) Compression Test + Check Spark Plugs 2.) Adjust Tappets if Needed 3.) Check Dwell and Timing 4.) Adjust Carb with a Vacuum Gauge I have never adjusted valves on a flathead before. I have reviewed the manual and I am thinking this is what I am to do: A.) Check cold clearances *between* the bolts. (See photo - this is the biggest question I have). Set to specs as the manual indicates. B.). F
  12. You mean the box that has the damper in it? I’ve not seen one for sale on the usual sites. Mine is also in pieces. I can rebuild the blower motor I think but the box will need to be substituted with something.
  13. Keith - this is what my manual says the valve should look like on my Plymouth. Note, as far as I can tell, the Model 100 and Model 101 (mine) are identical save for the year of car they were installed in.
  14. Thanks for all the responses! My heater is Model 101, the basic pull out slot heater. I don’t believe having two valves was an original design. (See photo of my service manual). Keith - is it possible your Chrysler has a more advanced heater than my Plymouth? The Plymouth was the basic Everyman car to my understanding. (An old timer told me it was like a base model Buick, no frills and obviously meant for older people. Not a “cool” car to have in 1952.). Here is the block and the valve. The heater control valve would go where the manual water valve (yellow handle) cu
  15. Hello, Can somebody show me a photo of the temperature control valve location? My heater doesn’t seem to connect to anything (see photo) and there is a water valve (the kind you use to shut off the water to your outside faucets in the winter) on a line running from the block to the heater core. I suspect that is where the original valve was located, but I need to figure out if that is the case so if I get a replacement heater valve and line it will fit properly. Thanks! (Yes, I know the heater roll is not authentic to the car. Number 785 of things I need
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