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  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Cranbrook


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    Cars, Music, Camping

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  1. Is there a good way to determine compatibility of different Mopar parts across different applications? I have the Mopar parts manual so you can tell what part number goes to what make / model / year but that doesn’t help me much. If I have a 1947 dodge engine, for example, will the starter, generator, fuel and oil pumps, and manifold be compatible with a 1952 Plymouth? What about the rear axle and diff assembly? Same question, but 1952 Dodge truck to 1952 Plymouth. Thanks!
  2. Hello, my 52 Plymouth’s fuel tank is now more JB Weld than actual steel and it’s time for a new one. Anybody have a recommendation on a source for a new or decent used tank? Has anybody had any experience with MoparPro? They have a kit with a new tank, straps, and sending unit. Should I replace anything else? My tank is shot and I was always taught to replace the straps at the same time. Should I look into a new filler? Current seems ok (but covered in 75 years of mess). Any other components to change? thanks!
  3. Right out of high school I was still into Japanese rice burners. You are already ahead of the curve. (In my defense the first Fast & Furious had just come out and my friends and I went to see it about 25 times at the dollar theater). What happened to your stock engine and accessories? Want to sell them? I’m trying to piece together a good spare engine from not-good spare engines.
  4. To be honest the factory covers were not great. The one I have warped over time and now is a lump under the carpet. I suggest, if you make one, to not attach it with a swivel or hinge. Just make it so it comes out of the floor and you have access to the master cylinder. Trust me.
  5. Man that is a deep dive if that’s what it is. Does a wolf whistle keep deer (supposedly) out of your way? I remember my grandpa used to swear by the air powered version of those.
  6. It occurred to me last weekend when I was out in the middle of nowhere pulling a fan blade off of an old flathead six that no longer even looks like an engine: eventually, whether 50 years or 100 years down the road there won’t be any more original parts left. Companies do make some replacement parts, but when was the last time you were able to buy a camshaft without having an old one to send in? How about a generator off the shelf? A distributor? If your block cracked tomorrow, where can you find one that is in good enough shape to rebuild it? Can you get all the parts to do so? I guess my point is in the future there will be a day when there are no more flathead parts. Do you figure out how to fit a slant six or a Ford / GM straight six in your car? Do you try to convert it to electric? Are there “crate engines” with electric batteries and motors to make vintage cars electric? Any companies out there doing it?
  7. So good news and bad news. The heat + penetrating fluid worked like a charm! I don’t have a fancy welding torch but I do have a propane torch (like plumbers use) and that did the trick. The throttle is free! The bad news is I tried drilling out the stuck idle screw and I buggered up the hole. The aluminum was a lot softer than I thought and drilling hard steel stuck in soft aluminum was a bad idea. The carb will never function again, but I’m still going to rebuild it for fun and get some assembly skills down.
  8. Hello, I picked up a $15 Carter BBS off a 65 Dodge Slant 6 from a junkyard today. My intention was to “practice” rebuilding it before I rebuilt some flathead six Carter BB1s I found from the same yard. All is well except for the throttle body. It is quite corroded (I think the steel / aluminum combo over time caused some problems) and the throttle is stuck open. The idle adjusting screw broke off when I tried to back it out. Is there anything I can do besides brute force? (That won’t end well). Heat? A chemical? Keep going with my ultrasonic bath and see if that helps? I know the idle screw’s tolerances are precise and I don’t want to drill it out without loosening it up first. The carb is practice, but I want to do it right and fix it correctly so I have skills in my pocket for rebuilding my “real” carbs. Thanks!
  9. Does anyone know the size and thread count (fine?) of the knobs that go on the end of the shifter and signal? Mine have deteriorated but MoPar Pro wants an ungodly amount for replacements. I thought maybe I can find a suitable alternative. Thanks!
  10. You know what, THAT in the Ebay listing is what is attached to my fuel pump (with the filter in the bowl... it's even the same casting). The former owner must have attached it to the bottom of the fuel pump somehow. Now I'm going to have to take a closer look after work.
  11. It's on my list to add one. The prior owner of my car would trim Fram inline fuel filters and put them inside the sediment bowl somehow. He swore by it, but it doesn't ever seem to catch anything (that I can see).
  12. Hello, I have been stripping a 1952 218 flathead off of a Dodge truck to harvest parts for my 1952 Plymouth. I have noticed most are the same, but the starter on the truck engine has some sort of device on top of it that does not exist on my Plymouth's starter. What is it, and can I use that starter on my car in the future if needed? Also, the truck's fuel pump does not have a glass sediment bowl with a filter like mine does. Is this a truck thing? Sorry for the lack of photos, I can get them tomorrow if needed. Thanks!
  13. Hello, I own an old Plymouth but recently got this dodge truck engine. What was the original color? Aluminum grey like the other flathead 6 engines? Thanks!
  14. I ended up buying an engine hoist. Best $200 I ever spent. Tomorrow I’ll be making a custom wood dolly with casters to move it around (high enough to go over the hoist). I believe this is a truck engine. The brake master cylinder is on the bell housing. My 52 Plymouth just has it bolted to the frame under the driver seat.
  15. Hmm, you guys are scaring the poop out of me. I decided to do a search for engine stands that aren’t Harbor Freight and all the ones available seem to be of the same design and hardware, only different colors. I am guessing that they are all made by the same firm in China. Those stands are probably ok for a modern aluminum engine but I have a small daughter and can’t risk a collapse in our garage. I should have thought this through. It was a good deal. The engine crushed the harbor freight furniture dollies I put under it (good idea above, it doesn’t work though in practice FYI). Now the engine is wedged in my U Haul and I need to return it tomorrow afternoon. I think my next move is going to be to buy a Harbor Freight shop crane and get it out of the trailer. I’ll just have to put it on the ground in the alley until I can figure out what to do with it. At least it’s too heavy to steal. Maybe I’ll make a custom wood stand for it when lumber goes down in price.
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