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Scott Knecht

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About Scott Knecht

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth 2-door sedan

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  • Biography
    I’m 53 years old. Been out of the car scene for about 6 years but recently purchased a ‘48 Plymout
  • Occupation
    Own janitorial company


  • Location
    Nuremberg, PA
  • Interests
    Old cars and Harleys

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  1. Racer X if you go back in this post you’ll see where Sniper was able to post my little bump steer video.
  2. Yeah I’d be interested in hearing what Fat Man’s response is to the broken adjuster. As far as the steering arms, I just rotated the spindles stop to stop and compared that to the distance the Cavalier rack moved lock to lock. I came up with 1-3/8” shorter arms and it seemed to work. I simply made the arms from 1”x1” mild steel bar stock bent to the same angle as the factory arms. Got a 7 degree reamer from eBay on the cheap for my ball joint holes and of course careful measurements for the mount holes. Being mild steel I welded a bit of extra material around the holes and left them c
  3. Racer X this was the crazy angle I had on my rod ends at ride height with the factory long steering arms. At full on suspension compression it would exceed the angle limit of the ball joint. Not sure if you had any of these problems or not or if that contributed to your failure? I don’t have a recent close up of the revised set up but it now has a more neutral “at rest” orientation. But yes I still think the adjuster sleeve is scary looking for strength.
  4. Wow Racer X that’s a disconcerting situation. Now you have me second guessing the quality here. I’m spending money like a drunkin’ sailor trying to get my rod up and running. The last thing I need is to spend more. Lol I did make shorter steering arms on the same plane side to side to get the same turning radius with the Cavalier rack and also used two passenger side inner tie rods to eliminate the funky angle of the factory Cavalier driver's side piece. I also made a revised center mount to get the inner pivots as high as possible to the oil pan and in line with the A-arm pivots
  5. Wow Vin that’s awesome! I really dig all the little touches. Especially the rolled fender lips. It sounds fantastic! I’m sure mine will eventually morph into more than just the rust rod it is now. I need continued inspiration from all the fine folks on here!
  6. You know I actually was wondering that myself. I really wanted a club or business coupe when I was looking but I picked up this sedan for a song and dance. I don’t know actual production numbers but I surmised the sedan was somewhat rare just from what I see out there. Yeah I’m changing my mind a bit about keeping it a rat rod. I may do some quality body repair in the future. Thanks for the input guys!
  7. I agree Knuckleharley, it is just my labor to restore the car so yeah it may happen at some point. For now though I want all the mechanical things to work and be reliable. Yes Yukon I made the shorter arms from bar stock. They are pretty much mandatory if you want to keep the turning radius tight with the Cavalier rack as it doesn’t move nearly as far as the stock steering box. The rack is mounted with a kit I got from Fat Man Fabrications. I basically just did a little trial and error measuring to come up with 1-3/8” shorter. I used two right side cavalier inner tie rods to keep
  8. Thanks everyone. I’ve restored several muscle cars in my life but that was just bolting back together what came a part. This is really my first big adventure with so many modifications. I just take my time and there’s still some trial and error. As for dressing it up Andy, she’s really rough. It will eventually probably have a single coat of hot rod black and some pin striping at some point but it’s really too far gone in many areas to be worth a full on restoration. The bank account won’t handle it, or the wife for that matter. Hahaha
  9. I found this site about a year ago looking for rack and pinion advice and have enjoyed reading the many topics ever since. Here’s a few pics of where I’m at. I was hell bent on going with a 6.0 LS just because I had it in the shop. A hemi would’ve been neat but that would’ve broke the budget. Had the motor fired already for a test run. So far so good. Got the rack and pinion working just right. Went with a conventional master cylinder setup. Fabbed up a bracket and brake pedal from scratch. I also converted the “3 on the tree” to work the turbo 350 trans and that was surprisingly eas
  10. View Advert 1948 Rear end and drive shaft Rear end and driveshaft from 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2 door sedan. Rear is complete from drum to drum. Rear came out of running and driving car. Car is being rodded so I have no need for the stock rear and driveshaft anymore. Advertiser Scott Knecht Date 10/07/2021 Price $500 Category Individual Member Classified For Sale Ad
  11. Time Left: 7 days and 1 hour

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Rear end and driveshaft from 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2 door sedan. Rear is complete from drum to drum. Rear came out of running and driving car. Car is being rodded so I have no need for the stock rear and driveshaft anymore.


    , Pennsylvania - US

  12. Hmmm. Not sure how that would work on a car. The idea from what I understand is to have the center attachment points for the inner tie rods so they mimic the original steering and follow the arc of the lower A-arm to eliminate bump steer. I’m not sure though how the truck suspension is designed.
  13. Okay my friends. Here’s a quick update of the ‘48. So I made a quick brake master cylinder bracket out of a piece of stop sign post and some 3/8” steel for the pedal with a 5.3 to 1 pedal ratio for decent manual brake force. I also fabbed up a pad mount which locates the factory pedal pad securely. I turned it sideways because I think it looks better by itself without the clutch pedal. I used 1/8” plate for the firewall reinforcement. I’m moving the master cylinder to the firewall since there’s not enough room under the floor with exhaust and what not. Welded to the stop sign post I made a
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