DJ194950

Windows 10 is not the problem- Microsoft however with endless updates ( most are not at all security related) and programs almost no one wants however IS - never ending story. Have seen some alternatives( internet search only) that are widows 10 like but are not Microsoft.- anyone tried one of these?? DJ

The choke butterfly cannot be moved by the Sisson unless the throttle is slightly opened. ( the idle linkages keep it from moving). Therefore you see no movement of the choke rod from it when motor is cold. if throttle is left closed. When the motor is already hot you will see no movement either due to the bi-metal spring inside of the Sisson is totally relaxed= no more choke -as not needed anymore. DJ

Is there zero room to reach inside of truck door posts to tape it in place? Only worked on 3 Mopar early cars so I do not know myself. Just a thought, DJ

I did a internet search for "autolite IBR distributor" and got several results for you- Just one- https://brillman.com/product/autolite-prestolite-ibr-1016-distributor-rotor/. The the number model does not really matter- just the IBR, has been my past experience on these autolite distributors from several vendors! Maybe some help. ? DJ

A Crown malt or two? DJ

Check this other eBay add for similar but it does spec that it fits the #588 as does your tag. Priced close to the other Ebay add and if I remember correctly the then and now people are close to the same. It has been a while since I have checked their prices however. The other suggestions I believe are right on also. DJ https://www.ebay.com/itm/384197295930?epid=8028606051&hash=item5973f17

That is not a load of lumber- it is a load of Chinese scaffolding! ? DJ

? What is the longer spring doing running from the rear shoe to the bottom for the same shoe? Should be between the front and rear shoes in the hole where you have the spring in the rear shoe. Where is the front shoe spring that hold the shoe to the backing plate as is on the rear shoe. The smaller/shorter spring with the washers (2). ?? DJ

Tod is from calif. and it is required to fill out the form he mentions and also make yourself a copy or two. The state sometimes loses or misplaces? these. If someone does anything against the law including a parking ticket it will get back to you unless you can prove you sold it. Sure also helps to say to whom it was sold. Problem happened to a friend and also me. He lied to the state and had sent in the form and had his word taken. Myself -my old cheapie local driver type car ran but was due for problems not worth fixin soon sold I sold it Cheap! After the car racked up several park tickets (I believe they abandoned it. Had copies and even had copied the buyers drivers license. Set copies of the form and license to the company trying to collect from me. Never heard anymore! DJ also in Ca.

Heavy Grease applied to the drill and cleaned often will catch the drill chips. Then your choice to remove. DJ

Dump the flathead ford v-8 block as they are worth to many $$$ then pay someone to fix your drivers and get back to the truck? ? DJ

Is there a lip somewhere near the top of it? If so some pliers I'd use maybe vice grips but only on the loose side of setting and tap upward with a medium size hammer moving of the pliers position around. Worked several times for me but really ( if I remember-been several years) a lip is a key to me. DJ

So do you have the early water/antifreeze setup or the later "airbag/gas type"?? Interesting to say for sure. Must have been easier to repair/replace than the the US autos with expensive) factory air bags- Later Lincoln and Cadillac's, etc. with their air bag/coil overs with strut type that people replaced with way cheaper shock absorber/coil over type - more normal type setups- . A cheaper Citron hydraulic type suspension used?? Not at all sure for as I am not into fern-en cars! ? DJ

Is that a small BB check ball resting in that channel to the right side of the green arrow, behind the accel. pump? That May be the one that sits under the accel. pump under the left side of the bottom of the hole in the accel. pump bore in a small recess? Maybe just the pic.? Depends on size as mentioned- they are Not the same. DJ

Austin?? DJ

Oops. Stuff happens as some say. Try, try again. DJ

Drive car if possible by a local smaller machine shop to get estimate for them to make one. Probably not the cheap way to go But it will be done. Last chance but easier and Maybe cheaper than a more complete changeover? DJ

Los- You want some P-15-D24 T-shirts that have holes in them already like the jeans that cost way more for the hole already installed? ? Will pay more for the holes? How much extra ?? Maybe I can get some made and post a ad in the classifieds here for all to purchase. ? Any profits will be donated to this forum! ? DJ

Thanks for the updates and good to hear you are still working to make old Mopars up to date, as much as possible ! ? DJ

Well Kunckle, I have some issues that I would Never compare to yours, but I had some serious help from a book I read ,but trying to tip toe to a fine line? Keep you head up!!! Best to you and that you have time to complete some of your projects! ☝️ DJ ?

Mark the orientation of the drive shaft flange to trans output flange (return to same later) remove the 4 bolts trans flange/to drive shaft. Pry rearward on the drive shaft at the joint. It has spring loading inside the joints to keep tight. Remove shaft. Remove 4 bolts holding trans in and clips/ or cotter pins to drop the shifter rods to trans . remove trans. If you have back up lights-remove wire to the trans reverse switch. Take the the clutch adjustment rod out and remove throwout bearing off the clutch (held on by spring clips to both side ears) of the throwout bearing carrier. Pull the clutch arm towards the car middle to take it off the pivot ball inside the housing. remove. Remove the clutch pressure cover-6 bolts as I remember. Turn motor as needed to reach them all. As said earlier -plugs out makes it much easier- remove pressure plate and clutch. Remove the flywheel/to crank bolt/nuts depending on year of motor you have. A pry bar to move and the hold wheel from moving to get them all -4 to 6 nuts. Remove flywheel inspect and always should be reground flat and true. Do not let it be lathe turned. Often this does not come out well! Reassemble the opposite as above- DO get a proper alignment toll to center the clutch plate. Without one it is damn near impossible to get the trans reinstall. Oh, last comment for now- I did this repair on a 1950 Plymouth 4 dr. about 5-6 years back. Anything I missed? adds/comments from others are welcome, it has been 6 years- ? DJ

Have you removed the inspection cover under the bell housing and checked to see if the flywheel nuts/bolts to crank are tight! Mine somehow got loose on a standard clutch/3 speed trans that started to vibrate some after a short time after rebuilt engine and trans, retightened good and problem never returned-Maybe I did that part when I was feeling somewhat weak? Me thinks a fluid drive setup maybe even more touchy to slightly loose bolts to crank? DJ

Adjust the over-center set up?? Mine was so screwed up the the setup was impossible! DJ

See no reason the switch will care at all! The wire for 6v. are usually heavier than 12v., plus same for the contacts in the switch. Change the flasher & bulbs etc. to 12 v. and all should be good. JMO, DJ

Summit racing.com and Eastwood co..com both sell some good paints in the (reasonable price range) both single and base/clear coat types. At least the do not cost $1000's to cover a car/truck. Only issue you cannot have color match to original types just pick in the area you like. Just a thought. DJ