DJ194950

I wonder was his name Mike ( Michael) by chance and the EBay sellers name changed 3-4 times in the past? Just a guess mind you. DJ

The laptop must be a warm spot! Or, is going to get attention one way or another. DJ

Time to get a hold of local D.A. office and explain this situation and ask for a meeting at that shop with at least the local police to get your car. Have a tow truck on standby to get your car- - Now! Then after your inspection decide if a lawyer is worth the cost to sue or just file some kind of local small claims suit. Get the car! DJ

A garage cat, not fed often and leave no matches or flammables out in the open! ? ? DJ

When the motor is running you will never hear the rub! ? You will too busy smiling!- - Who cares.? DJ

Sh-t Happens even to the trained? Never watch the Show! DJ

.032 for points and .035 minimum for electronic Ign. ( depends on setup) seems to work well for most with a good tune . Newer gas mixes like more than than the old days. DJ

Sorry to say ?, but radial cuts from center out out would say to me a cut from a lathe is indicated. Where a surface grinder is used where the flywheel is laid out out flat (horizontal) and a large stone wheel about 1"-2" ( possibly more ) wide is run across the face multiple times. Others have a large grinding wheel also laid on horizontal plane that move across not centered on the flywheel. Hope I make some sense? From past machine shop experience only! DJ

Well , Coker tire is a big company and you know about lawsuit liability if they say your old rims are safe to use and they never get inspected by someone qualified to know and put in writing! Plus Coker has bought two companies that manufacture and sell new/old style wheels not using the Coker name however. Need to sell new wheels. DJ

Others have said in the past here that if a flywheel is turned on a lathe as compared to ground flat on a surface grinder that some hard spots can remain in the surface and cause this issue. I personally have never had a flywheel surfaced as none seemed to need it bad enough to have done. A sanding was all I ever felt was needed. Just lucky maybe. Just have read that here many times before. ??? DJ

I would only use the push on type of retainer not speed nuts as most of these years used pot metal to make the name badges and the retainer pins easily break. Also they often are held on by the push in the hole type of a spring clip that goes in the hole from outside and the badge pins just gets pushed into the hole in the retainer. The hole in the sheet metal for placement also needs to be larger than the pin on the badge for this type. I bought a bag of 4-5 various sizes off EBay years ago and was not to expensive. I believe the seller is in Florida and regularly advertised all type of clips, etc. there. DJ

I know that doing my own haircuts look bad but summer it becomes a Very short with the electric clippers. Winter out comes the stocking cap to wear when out of the house. Works for me and do not spend much time in front of mirrors! ? DJ

If you go to the Downloads section in the Forums page take a look at what is labeled as R-10 controls, etc. as it contains three files related to the R-10 overdrive and one has maintenance and repairs and how to inspect. Includes take apart. The pages are posted side ways and kind of bad but it is what I used and the best I could find back when I rebuilt 2 R-10's myself, I was a mechanic but Never worked on automobile transmissions and I managed, so you can to and others here have even more experience if questions need answering. Also the standard 3 spd. box section of the trans uses all the same parts as all regular non OD trans except for the mainshaft and the outer box itself, (more holes only really) Good luck, when the R-10 works correctly you will fall in love!. DJ

I think I would try to get someone with a lath to at least give a spin to check alignment and if possible a higher rpm spin to check for balance. These engines at most run at about 3K rpm. Know Anyone? DJ

A friend bought one to work on a big block chevy motor! Complete motor- only a 396 early though, but most likely weighs close to same as the flattie complete without the length. While it did hold it up with more sag than (scary to me) I liked and took one of us to lift up the front on the motor and the other to rotate the motor using the supplied turning bar. I refused to have any part of me anywhere near the motor as one piston was removed to check a bore with very slight rust. Reinstalling the head on one side was very scary as the the thing flexed. It worked but I would never buy a cheap motor stand and Work on it on the stand. Only my OP. ! Not in my garage. DJ

On my car it is impossible to see the mfg. tag when in the car. Even to tell that it exists. 2nd. the -remove the dist. and take a real good look! DJ

You have 2 trucks? a 25 Dodge and a 35 Dodge truck or which is correct. Project tuck listed is 25 and your Q. is about a 35.? I do not know anything to help with either, but others that may would need to know . ? DJ

I hope that the Demonstration was a "what not to do" demo! DJ

They were very helpful on the phone to me with my needs and with my measurements of parts needed and called back a day or two later with what they could supply. Worth a call? DJ

Thanks for the info. DJ

Would you recommend using arc welding with cast iron rod or "V" out cracks and preheat then braze? I used to work for a welding teacher (in his past) that had the beast luck brazing mainly because he said to me that his not having a oven big enough for even preheat to weld and reheat afterward, plus have a bead plaster to stress relieve the cast part. He then said all that he needed to do with brazing was to reheat and let slowly cool. Not sure your "LP" is referring to? A crack test? Just my past remembrances for what that is worth. DJ

You may want to look a a old rebuild ( for seat belt installs) by previous members Website that is still available but is moved to a odd sounding name, but do not get confused by the name as he is now into old Jeeps. His Mopar is Sold but he went through and documented his many repairs. http://www.oldwillysforum.com/Plymouth/02-hom/home.html Can someone else give up the name and site for this place that is correct? For the clips he needs. They carry about all small pieces like these for all makes. I think the name is Restoration Specialties. Last I heard that they were partially closed due to Pandemic, but still open, Undates? DJ

Before any repairs to cracks make sure that the flanges are flat! Uneven surfaces from past repairs, over tightening, wrong washers and nuts cause these issues and can warp a manifold quite badly. Been here and seen it! The the manifold can be repaired by machining flat. Not sure myself if it should be before or after weld but my thoughts seem to lead me it should be after? Just a re-weld without any checking will cause a quick repeat of a crack! DJ

You are welcome. Beware of their shipping/handling? charge Minimum even in the U.S. You need anything else to put together a bigger order? May or may not help. Perhaps just a small envelope for such a small part is the answer? DJ

From Berbaums site (oldmoparts.com. In transmission past section. This I believe is the part you mean? A call ?? DJ