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belvedere666 last won the day on October 12 2017

belvedere666 had the most liked content!


About belvedere666

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Tattooing. Painting. Hanging out with my wife and kids.
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe.

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  • Biography
    Artist. Step dad.
  • Occupation
    Tattoo artist


  • Location
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  1. Not my car and The guy lives in another state. He was just asking if i know what it was and I was stumped. Figured there’d be someone here that knew. if I were in front of the car I’m sure I could run it down.
  2. 1953 Dodge Meadowbrook suburban. came across a guy that recently purchased one of these and doesn’t know what this button is between the brake and clutch pedals. I’ve asked 5 people that have 53/54 Plymouth cars and none of them have it, but I’ve seen a few in pictures.
  3. Shock studs on a 51 are 3/4 and shock studs on a 50 are 5/8. I assume you can probably just make up that difference with some sort of sleeve, but I think the 51 shocks are a different part number and that they are a little bit stiffer. so, the ya rent all the same. What year is your car?
  4. It’s a mopar out of a 79+ dodge van. 4 speed OD with aluminum housing. i have a bellhousing from a p20 With a three speed.
  5. So, i have an a833 with aluminum case. I’m noticing that the black section of the transmission is about an inch larger than the hole in my bellhousing.
  6. In this picture here, you can see the bearing retainer bolts sticking out past the adapter plate. Do those bolts just sit against the bellhousing or is it necessary to grind out the bellhousing to clear those bolts?
  7. i used some multi lug "smoothies". I don't know how i got them in with a ratchet, (maybe i'm just REALLY STRONG!!! haha) but i did all 4 drums the same way. i don't see why cragar multi lug wouldn't work. you'd need the cragar lug nuts with the washers and the long sleeve.
  8. I hope this time around is easier than the last. We may be able to learn from past struggles and any and all advice will be appreciated. A few things that have definitely changed are: POC now allows “modified cars”, and boy do we have ‘em. ok, so only 3 out of four of us have modified cars. California has always been a hot bed for car culture/hot rodding/Lowriders and some of us express ourselves through our cars. Bone Stock Plymouths are definitely still encouraged and accepted. also, we are technically the Southern California region, but we are accepting members all up and down the state. we have been cleared to establish sub regions such as Northern California, central California and San Diego as membership increases and interest grows. we all understand that travel from northern to southern extremes will prove difficult. We have decided that, for now, anyone outside of 30 miles will be able to meet by teleconference or be briefed by the secretary (Tony Garcia “Tones52”) if they cannot attend monthly meetings. once there are enough members in their area, we will discuss the establishment of a sub region. We are all hoping that some of these changes will help us grown and maintain California’s representation in the Plymouth Owner’s Club. -Phillip Alcala President: Plymouth Owner’s Club Southern California.
  9. The guy with the transmission only bought the motor/trans combo to use the motor. its pretty much a boat anchor without the proper linkage and push button controls?
  10. I have access to a transmission from a 6 cylinder 1959 Plymouth Savoy. im interested in hearing from anyone who’s adapted this to fit a 1950 Plymouth with a column shift three speed, or similar. what kind of hurdles will i have to jump? advantages/disadvantages? I’m not super concerned with power loss. its a low speed, around town cruiser anyway. heres a few pics of the trans.
  11. my four door 50 has two sets of set mounting holes, and there's a sliding mechanism in the seat frame that allows quite a few inches of adjustment. there should be a handle on the driver side that you move to engage the slider. you can check under the seat to see if it's all connected correctly.
  12. recently purchased an infrared thermometer to check the running temperature of my 218. i'm getting some VERY different readings throughout the car. Radiator cap gauge is reading 170ish. (aluminum radiator) Temp gauge at the water bypass is reading 170. (aftermarket) Dashboard gauge is just a little over the middle line but not close to "HOT". infrared thermometer is reading between 205-215 at the rear of the block and about 170 in the middle section of the block. (both taken from the top of head) as far as i can tell the water is flowing through all the passages. i have a 180 degree thermostat was new and working ( i tested it) before i installed it. Has anyone tested temps in these areas? Do my numbers and the differences from one section to another seem "normal" or "abnormal"?
  13. Relocated spring pockets and Moog Aerostar springs. i think it gave me about a 2” drop.
  14. This is the second comment in a row, that mentions that I just need to use a 12 V to 6V reducer. The post mentions that I have a 12V to 6V reducer. That is the reason why I posted. I am using the reducer, and it isn’t working.
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