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belvedere666 last won the day on October 12 2017

belvedere666 had the most liked content!


About belvedere666

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
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  • Interests
    Tattooing. Painting. Hanging out with my wife and kids.
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe.

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  • Biography
    Artist. Step dad.
  • Occupation
    Tattoo artist


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  1. I hope this time around is easier than the last. We may be able to learn from past struggles and any and all advice will be appreciated. A few things that have definitely changed are: POC now allows “modified cars”, and boy do we have ‘em. ok, so only 3 out of four of us have modified cars. California has always been a hot bed for car culture/hot rodding/Lowriders and some of us express ourselves through our cars. Bone Stock Plymouths are definitely still encouraged and accepted. also, we are technically the Southern California region, but we are accepting members all up and down the state. we have been cleared to establish sub regions such as Northern California, central California and San Diego as membership increases and interest grows. we all understand that travel from northern to southern extremes will prove difficult. We have decided that, for now, anyone outside of 30 miles will be able to meet by teleconference or be briefed by the secretary (Tony Garcia “Tones52”) if they cannot attend monthly meetings. once there are enough members in their area, we will discuss the establishment of a sub region. We are all hoping that some of these changes will help us grown and maintain California’s representation in the Plymouth Owner’s Club. -Phillip Alcala President: Plymouth Owner’s Club Southern California.
  2. The guy with the transmission only bought the motor/trans combo to use the motor. its pretty much a boat anchor without the proper linkage and push button controls?
  3. I have access to a transmission from a 6 cylinder 1959 Plymouth Savoy. im interested in hearing from anyone who’s adapted this to fit a 1950 Plymouth with a column shift three speed, or similar. what kind of hurdles will i have to jump? advantages/disadvantages? I’m not super concerned with power loss. its a low speed, around town cruiser anyway. heres a few pics of the trans.
  4. my four door 50 has two sets of set mounting holes, and there's a sliding mechanism in the seat frame that allows quite a few inches of adjustment. there should be a handle on the driver side that you move to engage the slider. you can check under the seat to see if it's all connected correctly.
  5. recently purchased an infrared thermometer to check the running temperature of my 218. i'm getting some VERY different readings throughout the car. Radiator cap gauge is reading 170ish. (aluminum radiator) Temp gauge at the water bypass is reading 170. (aftermarket) Dashboard gauge is just a little over the middle line but not close to "HOT". infrared thermometer is reading between 205-215 at the rear of the block and about 170 in the middle section of the block. (both taken from the top of head) as far as i can tell the water is flowing through all the passages. i have a 180 degree thermostat was new and working ( i tested it) before i installed it. Has anyone tested temps in these areas? Do my numbers and the differences from one section to another seem "normal" or "abnormal"?
  6. Relocated spring pockets and Moog Aerostar springs. i think it gave me about a 2” drop.
  7. This is the second comment in a row, that mentions that I just need to use a 12 V to 6V reducer. The post mentions that I have a 12V to 6V reducer. That is the reason why I posted. I am using the reducer, and it isn’t working.
  8. In the original post I said that I have a 12-6 resistor and it’s not powering the motor.
  9. 6 volt motor was connected to a six volt battery and it worked.
  10. My ‘50 has been completely re-wired using an EZ harness. The car is now 12v negative ground. i have the original vacuum wiper motor in the car now. I came across an electric wiper unit from a ‘51. pretty sure it’ll take a little creativity to mount it the car, but wiring it to my 12 volt system has me baffled. i picked up a reducer. One of those gold colored ones with the aluminum heat sink. i was told it would work better than the smaller Runtz reducers. Bench testing straight to my 12v battery, with a wire from the wiper motor grounding strap to the negative post on the battery, I get power and the motor moves. i can hook it to a wiper switch, not stock, and get the same results. once I put the reducer inline either before the switch, or after, and attach the wiper motor wire, the motor grounds out and doesn’t want to move. i can get a reading of 12v off the end of the reducer and as soon as the wiper wire touches it it drops down to under 1v. I don’t know much about auto electrical stuff, but I’m guessing that since the motor was originally positive ground and now it’s being grounded to the negative, when it touches the positive, it’s grounding itself. is there any way to rectify this? reverse the ground inside the motor? The wiper motor has two wires. the wires are old and faded but it looks like the thick one is black and the thin one is green. any advice? troubleshooting recommendations?
  11. I forgot to mention that I needed to use an electronic flasher in place of the original style. There are some out there that will work with LED and incandescent bulbs simultaneously. So you can use incandescent ones in your parking lights and your interior indicator light. Or you can swap all of them out.
  12. I have red LED lights on my 50. They’re bright. They burn cool and have very little power draw. They replace the 1157 bulb with the dual filament. My car is 12 volt though
  13. Planning on replacing all upper and lower body mounts on my p20. can anyone walk me through the process for the upper mounts? do I need to remove them all and lift the entire body off or can I do them in sections? whAt are some things to look out for? will the body warp if I hade them all off at the same time?
  14. The master cylinder they sent you is a late 60s early 70s mustang master cylinder. It has two reservoirs. One for the drum brakes in the rear and one for the disk in the front. the steel plate you have there should mount into the holes where your original master cylinder mounts and the new master cylinder will mount to the plate. now that I look at it, they MAY have sent you the wrong adapter plate. Mark at ECI has been very accommodating and willing to work with me when I had a question or an issue. i was missing a few pieces and he sent them out right away. mine looks like this picture here. the three holes in the bracket fit into the three holes that hold the original master. This is kind of what the whole set up should look like
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