allbizz49

They all look great. We have 2 of the same cars almost.

What a great car! Perfect setting for it.

I've ordered quite a few parts from mopar pro. Nothing but top tonch stuff so far. I wouldn't hesitate to order his rebuild kit.

Man, what a great car. Mine was originally the same color but had been repainted who knows when. Looks really good. Congratulations on such a cool car.

Make yourself a list of things to do to your car. First, get it running. Once you know the engine is sound, get the brakes working. This might take anything from replacing/rebuilding every brake component to just some fresh fluid. Then make sure your steering is in good order. After you get these things working, then you can get to the nitty gritty of making it safe and roadworthy. Disc brake swaps and all of that shouldn't be a consideration yet. Also, the brake line material is nicopp, not copper. Get it running first!

Non detergent oil is just that, oil without detergent. The theory is if you have an old engine with sludge build up, the detergent will loosen it up and allow it to clog your oil passages. As far as the brake lines go, yes, just swap them. It's an easy job. I like to hit all of the connections with PB blaster or wd a day or two before attempting to change old lines that have been sitting. Helps save the hassle of stripped fittings. A set of line wrenches helps too. And lastly, Marvel mystery oil is still going strong, haha.

First thing i would do is pop the plugs out and put a little marvel mystery oil in each cylinder. See if you can turn the engine over by hand. I bought an old Plymouth that has been sitting since 87. Had it running in 3 days and now I am driving it in less than 3 months. If she spins by hand, throw new plugs in it and a battery and fire it up. If it runs, it will smoke for a bit due to the oil but it will burn off. For all you know, the motor was rebuilt before it was parked. Then you can do brakes, full tune up new tires. Good luck, hope it's a runner.

Uncut dash. Maybe he's willing to ship it..... https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/rio-linda-1949-dodge-coupe-wayfarer-hot/7326820238.html

I've worked in a few restoration shops that used glass for blasting. It's like anything else, it depends on who is doing the blasting. You can ruin a panel quick if you don't know what you're doing. It's a great media especially if you do all of your metalwork and metal finishing first. Then you can go straight to epoxy then filler.

Thanks for some clarification So,the difference would be in the rub block? Odd that the motors are basically the same for many years, makes and models but something like a simple ignition part is that different. Guess I've been fortunate and have never had a set of points not work.

Just out of curiosity, what is the difference between the points for different distributors?

Disconnect the fuel line at the tank.

If you checked the pressure or aired up the tires before your trip, I bet a shrader valve got hung up. I've had it happen to me.

If anybody needs a decent back seat, come and get it for free. Material is pretty crispy but the frames are in excellent shape. I tried to list them in the classifieds but I couldn't attatch photos. FREE!!

Race Glaze polish/sealant. I've been using it for years, even on cars that I just painted and buffed. It still allows your paint to breathe even though it is called a sealant. When I detail cars, I use Meguiars carnuba then Race Glave over it for a final finish. It can be applied with an orbital and soft foam pad but I prefer hand application. Make sure to allow it to dry fully before removing.