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The leak from the throttle area is just a symptom of the real problem. There should be no liquid gasoline in that area, it should already be atomized at that point. Most likely the needle and seat is not sealing well, the float is improperly adjusted or defective. If it only leaks after running at normal temp or above then shut down, it may be boiling fuel in the bowl. Just to be clear, changing the throttle base will not fix the problem as it is above that part.

more, wipers work decent, still snowing

Hi all, have just joined this site and am impressed with all the information and knowledge available here. I have purchased a 49 Dodge D32S Special Deluxe and of course have a few questions. Location of a chassis number? It has an alloy tag on the firewall but is there a stamped number somewhere? There was no jack with the car and believe the original is a bumper jack, but figure a small trolley jack will do the job? Keen to find out the differences in the different variants of these cars. Cheers Bill

Just like most things on the net or in life in general you don't hear about the normal ones. I personally pulled drums off one that was in the junkyard for decades. We gutted the brakes put the drums back on and tow dolly towed it home.

They quit putting drum brakes on cars a while ago too. How about ABS and satellite navigation? You running four wheel discs? How about points and generators? My daily has all of the above plus bias tires. 10k plus a year not counting my carbed bikes that I ride on the regular. What's your point? Carburetor was a suggestion to keep it simple. Why have an old car just to.modernize the **** out of it? The beauty of an old car is that it's old.........

Hey 40plyguy, where are you in the Badger State? I had a nice chat with ccudahy via private message. I had though the same thing, but he’s a bit farther north. We might have the opportunity to get together sometime this summer at a car show or two.

I’m in the January drive club. Finally. It’s the first Canadian winter I think that I’ve had it out in January. Blue clear skies and roads. They say its snowing in Texas today. ?

As promised, for our Canadian friends that are missing their snow.

I signed up to stay on the mailing list. Slim chance I can make it though.

Here is the info you need for adjusting body gaps: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/025/cover.htm As mentioned earlier, the Mopar engineers did an amazing job designing superb airflow through the cabins of their cars. The air movement is far better than modern vehicles which weren't designed to be driven with open windows. Hoping your brother-in-law will be able to enjoy this car with you in years to come.

A paint stirrer stick makes for a handy, non marring gaping tool, cheap too.

I agree with this. I have pulled dozens of drums without any trouble. One was on a car where the rear axle was buried in the ground. That was probably the toughest but I got the drums off the same day I started using just the puller with no penetrating oil or heat. If done correctly, most drums pose little problem. A good puller is essential and correct use is just as important. Never hit the centre large piece that lines up with the axle on the end as this can cause problems to the bearing races and internals of the differential. There should be a wishbone that goes on the large central piece and you pound on that turning the central shaft in a clock-wise motion. Don't be afraid to REALLY POUND HARD on the wishbone. Brute force is necessary. As mentioned, do not fully remove the axle nuts. Just undo them a few turns. When that drum pops it will make a VERY LOUD noise. Only the drum will come as the axle is held in place by the backing plate. Without the nut on the end of the axle, the drum, with the puller attached, will launch itself into you or anything else like another vehicle that is in the way.

Confirming the coil wiring for a 47 DeSoto with the semi-automatic transmission. Coil Negative post: (Hot side) Red wire from "coil" post of ignition switch, and green wire to "Bat" terminal of the transmission relay. Coil Positive post: (Positive Ground system) Black wire to "PRI" post of transmission relay, and black wire to distributor. So, the negative post takes power from the ignition switch and provides power to the transmission relay. The positive post takes the timed grounding from the distributor to energize the coil, and the other wire grounds the coil during kickdown, to briefly slow the engine, so the transmission can do its wonders.

there is also a throttle interrupt circuit in that drawing, it goes from the PRI terminal on the transmission relay to the coil + and grounds it when it wants to interrupt the circuit. I believe the wire the OP is asking about is nothing more than power to the transmission relay.

As near as I can tell the wire to the transmission relay (just like an overdrive) is to interrupt the ignition momentarily to take the torque load off the transmission. However, an Overdrive relay is labeled Throttle, Solenoid, Ignition and battery. The drawing you have is labeled differently but it may serve the same function. Overdrives can be wired differently depending on how many wires are on the throttle switch. Four is the standard I've felt with but three is possible. The wire which goes to the coil should connect to the point side of the ignition coil, which is the ground side in order to perform the ignition interrupt function. A positive ground car = positive side of the coil. A negative ground car = negative side of the coil. If the coil is not marked in any way just know if you get it wrong the worst that can happen is a reduction of about 40% of the coil's output. Which means it will still run. Just make sure the relay wire goes to the point side.

Looking at the drawing it appears that third wire is what applies power to the transmission relay. Being that it only should have power with the key in the run position and this being a positive ground setup hooking the wire to the coil negative terminal is appropriate. Having said all that, I don't have this setup so I can't confirm it for you.

At least your wife thinks that about you. Mine looks at me like I got a black permanent ink S on my forehead!?

Body gaps were what they are from the factory. The sheet metal stamping process wasn't all that precise back then. If you want nice even narrow gaps like you see on the car shows out there you will be doing metal work. That's the problem with those fix it shows, they never show the tedious details to any real degree. After all, my wife thought I should be able to remodel a bathroom in a half hour, hour tops. I try to tell her they have a whole crew of guys off camera working for a week or more to get it done but I think she thinks I have a blue T shirt with a yellow S on it under my work shirt. ?

I agree, its a nuisance. i took pictures of my home made grille,same thing. And editing it seemed to work. Flip it, save it,flip it back and save it. iphone, take photos with volume button on bottom left.

Motocicletas Nacional Barcelona 18 de Mayo 1924 Norton flat-tank

Bugatti Type-35B @ Circuit de Monaco in 1931 ?

Thanks for the welcome guys, the Dodge has a 25” flathead, 3 speed manual trans and leather interior. I’m trying to build up a bit more knowledge on this era as I have a bit more knowledge about the 60’s plus. Love the more basic mechanics of these cars. A few more photos, I know what you mean - photos are good. Cheers Bill

Yeah only option I know for used ... if available can drive to Abilene and pick it up. If they allow me back in the store. Last year bought something off car-part and drove to Abilene to pick it up ... They jacked me around on time, I showed up and they went to lunch. I explained I was retired ... I did not have time to sit here and wait on them. Other day I went to the local truck stop, asked for 3 of the daily dinner specials. Sometimes would be wise if I had a mouth filter ... life would be easier. Yeah will search carpart.com tomorrow and call yards to see if can give dimensions and find a match.

www.car-parts.com for an online junkyard search source

Well, at least it wasn't a thrown rod

Great looking car. Love the coupe body style. Looking at your user name I’m guessing you’re fr Cudahy,Wi.?

Thank you Robert. Your example encouraged me to get my car out too. Plus, its not too often a Canuck can challenge a southern US location for January weather.

Right or wrong if it were me, I’d “tap that” and try and straighten enough to get her in the parking spot, then look for a new drive line

no....get a new yoke.....that is if you intend to get good driving characteristics and long life....sometimes you just got to bite the bullet...if you don't, it exits the back of your head.

I would have had it out already but it is blocked by my ‘63 Ford ? Fairlane 500 that has the engine out right now for a rebuild. It’ll be a couple of months probably. It’s road conditions that determine if they go out. Icy or chemical laden roads keep the cars in. Cold doesn’t bother me as my oldies all have good heaters. I’ve driven the ‘48 Dodge at -20F.

A man of his word. Great pictures! Thanks for sharing and enjoy the snow. We Canadians are more than happy to send it your way any time! ?❄️?

Very nice! If your car did not come with turn signals you will have to pull the housings front and rear for the turn signals as it only came with a single contact socket you need dual contact sockets and bulbs to have turn signals.

Welcome to the “family”. It’s good to see another Wisconsin member. Does your forum name reflect your name, nickname, or your location on the south side of MKE? I lived in the Milwaukee Metro area for close to 30 years before moving up to the Fox Valley a few years ago.

Great looking vehicle, mine is a 40 footer, but fun to drive with no worries!! Nice to see someone else puts plastic under their vehicle.

We’re driving in January in Canada. Snow free roads. It’s snowing in Texas. Lol. Can’t say that very often.

And again today. We had some snow the week before Christmas but all that’s left is what blew into the ditches.

Thanks for all the replies, i really appreciate it. To answer a few questions. Am i dead set on the 3.9 - no, i am just trying to find an economical powerplant for the 50 and cant see spending a few grand on the old flathead What is the purpose of the car - just a fair weather cruiser to drive around when its nice, have a big block dart if i want to go fast Frame Swap? Probably not as i just want a decent cruiser, i've rebuilt the front suspension, added disc brakes and a dual master for safety all before the flathead went all in all just want to get the 50 back up and running as its been a few years. Ryan

It boils down to is it worth the time, money and effort. Anything can be made to work. Chassis swap or even front frame swap probably isn't necessary. Why do all of that when you can fab up or even buy mounts? Is it going to be a daily driver or fair weather cruiser? Are you totally sold on the v6? If so, I would yank the flatty and start mocking up the new motor and tranny. Really.just simple hot rodding, guys have been doing it forever. A bit more satisfying when you're done and you did it yourself. I recall Mopar performance selling a roots supercharger for those 3.9s, haha.

Oh, one other thing, if you go carbed your ignition will need addressed. Simple, take an electronic ignition distributor for an LA engine, pull the 8 point reluctor, replace with a 6 point one, done.

Just put a v8 in there if you are going to a swap. It's really not that hard. Like sniper said, 3.9 is just a shorter LA motor. Whatever you do, ditch the injection and put a carburetor in it's place. Less wiring to deal with.

Regarding the price increases.........if you check what the fuel price was back then with a kit price back then and compare the fuel price now with todays kit price its generally relative...........a plastic kit is just a reconfigured lump of oil.......plus the model market is now maybe less than a 1/4 of what it used to be due to lots of other things to amuse kids........videos,computers,etc, etc..........some of us still build models..........since March last year I have completed 45 or 46 kits......still have 270 car and 75 aircraft kits to go........attached is a pic of the Tower of Model Boxes, ones that I've done since March...........lol................Andy Douglas

That's a rather nice and unique style you've got there.

That is a nice photo of your car , it looks nice with the green lawn .

resources section, Dpecta site, pilots knowledge, truck repair manual, transmission section, in this forum follow the sequence and you'll find diagrams for 3 speed floor shift, column shift and 4 speed.