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Andydodge last won the day on June 20

Andydodge had the most liked content!


About Andydodge

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  • Gender
  • Location
    South Grafton Australia
  • Interests
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge sedan have had since 1971, also have had 1939 Plymouth Roadster Ute,1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1968 Dodge Phoenix & 1973 Valiant Wagon

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  • Biography
    63 yrs old
  • Occupation
    between jobs, was book & hobby shop owner


  • Location
    Sth Grafton NSW Australia
  • Interests

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  1. From the pics posted thats the type of canister that doesn't come apart and you were supposed to replace the whole canister with a nice new one when due........I've seen the other type that undo with a replaceable element used in place of the type you have however sometimes the oil line fittings will need to be changed due to oil line thread sizes being different........that canister type you have was a common type and I've seen what could be the same used on various GM and Frod engines, just with differing brand stickers..........does yours have any part numbers stamped anywhere on it?.......
  2. The 41 Plymouth I had developed a "ticking" sound that I found was coming from the crank pulley, wasn't wobbling as bad as yours but I decided to remove and replace it.........when removed I discovered that the crank hub to crank pulley rivets had worn and I couldn't find a replacement here in Oz anywhere........whilst down there I replaced the timing cover seal together with a speedie sleeve on the crank hub however I decided to weld the crank hub to the pulley as a replacement couldn't be found in oz......I used the stick welder to carefully weld short beads of the an identical size and leng
  3. As far as I know the headlight switcheis not voltage sensitive........I've used an original 1940 Dodge one running 12 volts since 1973 without an issue.......the plastic knob fell apart so I found a screw on metal one & rechromed .............works fine, thats it on the right .....andyd
  4. I've used these motorbike blinkers/indicators for 40 yrs tho' last year I replaced the rear ones with a pair of smaller "harley"style ones, have got a pair of the "harley" style for the front that will be done soon........I originally tried to adapt the front parking lights and the rear tailights to both work as indicators but space was an issue so the bolt on bike ones were used........hopefully saves an idiot hitting the car..........andyd
  5. Both my cars had Lynx eye taillight lenses....as Oz 1940 Dodges used 1940 US Plymouth taillights a set of 1940 Plymouth Lynx Eye Tailights still in their boxes was eagerly obtained in 1975 and still in use..........the 1941 Plymouth Lynx Eye centre light was obtained soon after the car purchase in 2007...........they are not common here in Oz...............andyd
  6. Michael........why don't you post on here as much information that you have so that the guys here maybe able to help...........no offence meant but you haven't given much info regarding your car, ie, body sytle, model a nd things like colour, interior etc..........evn the chassis/body and car serial numbers can indicate where the car was made and posibily the state sold etc.........welcome aboard, BTW......Andyd .
  7. Yep, the suspension attachment points, ie,the upper inner & lower inner pins with their bushes are the same from 1940 to 1954/55, the sway bar attachment is different so you may have to use your 1940 spindle but the king pins are the same 1939 to 1954/55 so then you use the 51 stub axle and king pin assembly and brakes.........take note of the lower outer pin & bush as there are 2 sizes of rubber seal that have an internal hex that fits the actual lower outer hexed head of the "bush" that screws into the spindle........from my fiddling the bush ID for the pin and the OD to screw into t
  8. I have installed MOOG aftermarket cast steel upper control arms on my Oz 1940 Dodge which uses the Plymouth wheelbased chassis, essentially the same as your Dodge........my lower control Arms are original 1940 as is the spindle, however the stub axle is the 41-54 style like what you have on the 1951 Plymouth..........I also had an original shaped sway bar made but 1" thick with adjustable links............an issue you may find if you swap in the lower arms is connecting the sway bar links as the arrangement is different from 1940 to 1951 and thats why i kept the original style sway bar setup b
  9. BTW.........the pic you posted shows the interior and seating setup of the 1942-48 Club Coupe, NOT the 1940/41 ASC Coupe.....easy way to tell is that apart from the seats is that the Club Coupe has an "elongated" rear side window rather that the small "triangulated" one of the business coupe shell........andyd
  10. I had a 1941 Plymouth Auxillary Seat Coupe and the small folding rear seats are not anything like the full size front split bench seat, in fact I doubt whether a full size seat will even fit, if it does it will be extremely cramped.........the folding rear seats are really only suitable for children or short adults as they are quite close to the floor.........when I sat on them my knees were up near my ears.......lol........very uncomfortable for an adult.............see attached pics.......if you look closely at the 1st pic you can just make out the small folding metal "peg" that holds the se
  11. Keep at it...........tighten, wack, tighten, wack......maybe loosen a bit, spray some WD40 etc, tighten, wack, tighten, leave tightened overnight ........the puller is TIGHT onto at least 3 of the bolts/studs?...........check they aren't come loose........maybe undo the puller and move around to at least the other 2 bolts/studs that were just "watching" and one of the 3 that was involved in the job and have at it again............tighten, wack, tighten, wack...........you'll get it off but always make sure that the centre nut is on ......it only needs clearance between the bottom of the nut an
  12. Whether this was an Oz only thing I'm not sure but I know that here on Oz Mopars with the stock "dogbone" style pitman arm that uses a short and long tie rod , short to the drivers side, long to the passenger side................. the tierod ends fit up/down to each other at the " dogbone" yet both insert from the bottom at the wheel or steering arm end of the tierod......and it doesn't matter really whether they insert from the top or bottom as far as the steering geometry is concerned so far as you insert the tierod into the taper the correct way to suit the taper........the steering arm tap
  13. Bob....the Australian Chrysler Royal introduced in 1957 thru to 1962 used the 1953/54 chassis and body shell with 55/56 fenders ,and apart from offering both the 230 and 250 engines depending on what trans was ordered Oz Chrysler also offered the Canadian 301 then 313 A series Poly in this 53/54 style chassis from 1957 to 1962............the engine I installed in my 1940 Dodge was from a 1962 Oz Chrysler Royal, see attached pic and was the 313 version, since bored 80thou over to 325.......as for doing a complete 55/56 front clip swap it maybe doable but I'd be first trying to instal the engine
  14. When I 1st built my Dodge with the 318 Poly I installed a rack & pinion which as most rack were they do not have the same left/right "throw" that a normal steering box has which meant I had a 100ft(more or less......lol.) turning circle.....the answer was to have the steering arms shortened 1" which due to the fact that steering arms by virtue of their design are angled more towards the centre of a car due to the Ackerman principle............shortening them means that the "throw" of the rack & pinion acts more directly on the stub axle consequently turning the stub axle at a sharper a
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