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Andydodge

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Andydodge last won the day on February 18

Andydodge had the most liked content!

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About Andydodge

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Grafton Australia
  • Interests
    cars
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge sedan have had since 1971, also have had 1939 Plymouth Roadster Ute,1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1968 Dodge Phoenix & 1973 Valiant Wagon

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  • Biography
    63 yrs old
  • Occupation
    between jobs, was book & hobby shop owner

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  • Location
    Sth Grafton NSW Australia
  • Interests
    cars

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  1. Thanks guys, made me laugh & smile...........I know its a bit early but wish you both & families a Happy & Safe Xmas & New Year............regards, Andy Douglas in Oz.
  2. 47P15cruiser.........I'm in Australia, South Grafton, Oz country on the east coast......... ...............I was in the process of collecting parts to build a hotted up 230 for the 41 Plymouth Coupe I had, twin carbs, cam, finned head, split exhaust, etc but sold the engine & bits when I sold the car due to financial issues a few years ago, still got the 40 Dodge tho' ............... ...............I got the Finned Head from Earl Edgerton in L.A. who had these cast up, the Montana Mopar Boys who post on this forum now are apparently doing these heads......the twin carb Offy intak
  3. Well, the 36-42 Dodge part list posted by Rich does indeed confirm that Dodge & Plymouth used the same stub axles..........this info would be worth giving to all three of the disc brake adaptor companies.....they may even appreciate it............lol.........andyd
  4. Dunno if this is any help but I have a USA 1936-42 Plymouth Master Parts List, 480 pages, a reprint of a 1946 book by Chrysler Corp. and it confirms the right/left steering knuckle part numbers as indicated by ratfinkxxx above....... ................but the interesting thing is that the addmitedly only drawings, show that the steering knuckles or what I would normally call the stub axles appear to be the same type as used up to and including 1940, ie, with a pair of bolt threads above the stub axle and a pair of large holes cast into the stub axle below the stub axle for the steering arm
  5. But as Ken says use the number stamped onto the bearing.........obviously if you do not have a bearing then thats a problem but I've never bothered with a car brands part number when I'm looking for a new bearing, I just use the number on the bearing......and when I decided on using discs on my Dodge years ago the main consideration was that the ID of the new bearings in the 11" vented discs matched the OD of the 1941-54 style stub axle which they did, then it was just a matter of getting a spacer machined for the new grease seal to run on..........and that was again relatively straightforward
  6. My 1941 plymouth with the stock 201 cube engine had the neoprene seal instead of the stock rope seal but the previous owner had installed the neoprene seal without either of the 2 different shaped side seals..........I had a full Best brand gasket set but had to order the rope seal separately and then after teardown found I didn't need it as it had the neoprene seal and that really wasn't the issue...................lol................after installing the correct side seal it still had a small leak but no way like it was previously.......so I'd suggest checking first or order all 3 types of se
  7. Racer....those two holes you ask about in the chassis ARE for the original brake hose bracket that is held onto the chassis by small self tapping 1/2" AF head bolts, these are a fairly common bolt on mopars and you should find others holding various brackets onto the chassis........ ......as for the wheel size 1947 was a transition year......started off with 6.50x16 tyres, finished with 7.60x15 tyres........width would have been probably 5" to start going to 5.5" maybe 6" but doubtful..........I ran 15 x 6 and 15 x 7 Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies with their stock backspace and 195/65 x
  8. The shape of the pictured steering arms is factory stock due to the "dogbone" shape of the stock pitman arm which has one tie rod end attaching from above and the other from below to enable the pitman arm to have full unobstructed travel left to right.........using the "undropped" or straight type of steering arm on both sides is possible and quite o/k to accommodate a rack & pinion........ ...............however an issue arises in using a rack in place of a steering box due to the reduced "throw" that racks tend to have resulting in a reduction in turning circle......... .......
  9. Kevin.......looks like Petes won the prize.......thats a neat job he has done.........and interesting that his cars lock is a different length again.........in 3 years they did 3 different length lock assemblies but each have the same basic tongue design........bazaar..........lol.........andyd
  10. My setup probably isn't much use to you as I'm in Australia, but my car uses an Austin 1800(front wheel drive bigger version of the BMC Mini) rack & pinion that I narrowed 9", I also have shorter steering arms to address the common problem using rack & pinions, ie, that of a reduced steering tie rod "throw" so that my car has a decent turning circle.....brakes are 11" Oz PBR vented discs with the mopar bolt pattern rear brakes are 11" non vented discs on the 1990 Oz Ford rear axlethe rack has been in my car since the late 70's, the 318 Poly V8 since 1973, I've owned the car since 1971,
  11. There are 5 of those welch plugs on the distributor side, from memory its best to remove the generator & starter to get at them all.......also the dissy maybe in the way............firstly I'd undo the bottom radiator hose, then the water drain tap which from memory uses a normal right hand thread into the block......the actual tap uses a left hand thread to open its "port".......due to sludge etc even undoing the tap may not result in any water coming out as the sludge tends to block the drain opening..........so remove the tap...completely clean it and then start at the welch plugs......
  12. Kevin........finally got the pics from my camera........as you can see the lock is essentially the same catch as your car but much longer.....and works in the same basic way, the catch curves around and under the protruding "tongue" of the striker plate, but it would seem that your cars striker plate would be a bit higher or thicker than the 3/16th that my cars striker plate is..........mine as mentioned is brass and I, being a hotrodder got it chromed many years ago.........lol.........hope this helps...........andyd
  13. I first saw references to "Naugahyde" in the 1960's hotrod magazines I started reading around 1965/66 and even back then I am pretty sure that I saw that naugahyde was a brand name for a particular type of leather patterned vinyl upholstery.........its interesting seeing the pics of the various cloths, leatherettes and I suppose wool blends that were a common feature of USA cars......here in Oz I have read that real leather was more commonly used in Oz cars up to even the 1960's due to the various Oz tax & duty laws........... ............my Oz assembled & bodied Plymouth framed 1
  14. I took some pics but having problem getting the pics loaded.......the striker plate will try to sort the camera out today..........lol......tongue on my car is pointing towards the front of the car, actually its slightly angled "down" at the front..............this pic taken a few years ago just shows the striker plate on the bottom edge of the pic.........sorry its not real good.........lol.........also noticed that your trunk lid has a "hole" which would make sense as the striker plate would sit "into" this hole or recess and then the lock would come around and secure against the striker pla
  15. Here in Oz the GM designed OHV Holden 6 in capacities from 132/138/149/161/173/179/186 to 202 have had the single barrel downdraft factory stock Stromberg replaced with triple English SU carbies ranging in size from 1 &1/4" to 2", these were a common aftermarket "hot up" usage and worked well using cast aftermarket intake manifolds, also the LJ series Holden Torana XU1 used a 202 cube six with triple Stromberg CD side draft carbies from the factory & was/is the hot setup for these Holden sixes which use a triple intake port arrangement similar to the Mopar six, albeit into the OHV cyli
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