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Andydodge

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Andydodge last won the day on June 20

Andydodge had the most liked content!

About Andydodge

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Grafton Australia
  • Interests
    cars
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge sedan have had since 1971, also have had 1939 Plymouth Roadster Ute,1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1968 Dodge Phoenix & 1973 Valiant Wagon

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  • Biography
    63 yrs old
  • Occupation
    between jobs, was book & hobby shop owner

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  • Location
    Sth Grafton NSW Australia
  • Interests
    cars

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  1. When I first built my 1940 Dodge with the 318 poly in 1973 I installed the rear end from the Oz 1962 Chrysler Royal which fitted fine......this rear end whilst used in the Oz Chrysler Royal with the V8 Poly from 1957 to 1962 was essentially from the USA sourced 1955/56 Plymouth or maybe even the US 53/54 Plymouth as that is what the 57-62 Royals here in Oz were based on.........the stock 1940 Dodge rear end would probably hold together behind a mild V8 of 318 or so but the ratio would not be good with an auto trans and a manual trans would give rise to giving the clutch a workout and therefore the rear end so if you are going to do a V8 swap then you may as well factor in a rear end swap as well....... after 30 yrs I ended up swapping the 62 Royal diff for one from a 1990's Oz Ford, worked out fine............andyd
  2. Nigel.........if you have the original carby and are a stickler for 100% stock then o/k but quite honestly the 179-202 Holden single barrel stromberg is a great replacement, easy to work on, runs well and parts are/were easy to find & it bolts straight on but your choice..........the 41 plymouth Coupe I had came with a Holden stromberg and it went fine, the biggest improvement was to install a Stovebolt Engineering HEI distributor.......instant starts, ran well, just a much improved car....however it was already 12 volts when I purchased the car which was fine by me........yep, your car is definately a TJ Richards build, looks to be in nice condition........andyd
  3. The Oz manual that was published by Scientific Publications in Rockdale NSW is the only workshop manual I've ever seen, they did one for 1936-42, then 46-53, then a a 54 supplement, however I've not seen anything covering the 55-56 models which were basically the same as the 53/54 cars with minor appearance mods..........I have the 3 mentioned plus the Chrysler Royal 1957-60 AP1 & AP2 manual plus the 1961/62 AP3 supplement plus the US 1946-53 manual plus a few others.........there may have been an Oz factory manual but I'v not seen any ..I've been playing with 1940 Dodges since I bought my Oz 1940 Coupe in 1969......the sedan I've had since 1971...........I must admit I wasn't aware of the differences between the US & Oz bodies till the late 1980's...........but easy way to tell if a 39-48 car in Oz is a US or Oz body is check if it has external door hinges, if so its a TJ Richards Oz body,......also 1939-48 Oz internal door handles and winders have the large splined male attachment, whereas all US cars used the 5/16th or 3/8th square shaft.........anyway got a pic of the car?.........we all love pics.........and where are you?.........regards, andyd
  4. Nigel..........Welcome aboard.....these guys know their stuff........the Oz P15/D25 and SP15 were all essentially the same 1946-1948 Plymouth based vehicle with different grilles, badges and trim/moldings and upholstery.......the bodies were made by TJ Richards in Adelaide and should have a TJR stamping or plate on the firewall........here in Oz mopars used BOTH the short Dodge/Plymouth based 23" long 201/217 and 230 cube engine AND sometimes in the same year the DeSoto/Chrysler based 25" long 218/228 and 250(or 251)engine........both 23 and 25 inch e3ngines look the same but use different bore and stroke with rods, pistons, cam, crank only being interchangeable between each of the short or long versions, external parts such as water pumps, dissys, starters etc may swap tho' there maybe some issues..........suspension parts and steering parts may swap..........your cars engine "may" have "KEW " in the front of the engine number....DO NOT mention this KEW to the Yanks as this is purely an OZ thing.......if yours is a 25" engine then you order specific parts to suit THAT size engine which shoulkd have a 3 & 3/8th bore and 4 & 1/16th stroke making 218.8 cubes........if this bore /stroke is correct do NOT get it confused with the 23" 217 Dodge/Plymouth engine..............basic consumables should be still available here in Oz.............btw your cars body shell, doors & trunk lid are uniquely Australian and different to US parts......the attached pic is of my Oz 1940 Dodge which uses the same basic body shel, doors and trunk lid as your car...........do you have a workshop manual?.........the Oz specific one was published in 1954 and covers 1946 to 1953..........if you want I am happy to talk on the phone, I'm in South Grafton, NSW north coast on 02 66 425963...........Andy Douglas
  5. Jac...........if you are just removing them to replace the rubber seals, why not just clean the areas completely, squirt new grease in , reclean, then use short pieces of rubber hose or radiator hose, say about 1/2-5/8th diameter with a single cut then wrap around the seal area and use a couple of nylon wire ties to keep the new rubber attached.........if the bushings ARE buggered then replace the lot but if its just the rubber seals this may help......................and I'm on the Oz east coast, 8-9 hours ahead of you ............. andyd
  6. Duskylady.......... going by the pic you posted I'm also not sure that the hole has been welded.......looks just like a "plug" of some sort has been installed...........can you see the area where the plug is from underneath?..............if when looking from the bottom there also does not appear to be any welds or threads then I'd be inclined to try a gentle tap from the bottom with a steel/brass rob or drift about 5/16th diameter.........I have seen 2 types of dipsticks used, a "short" one that fitted straight into that hole and another that had a dipstick tube that was a pressfit from the top into that hole, this tube was about 6-8inches long and the correct dipstick to use with this tube had this extra 6-8inch length .............the more I look at your pic showing this blocked off hole the more that plug looks like just that.......a plug............but I'm 10,000 miles away so the view could be a little blurred........another thought..........just drill a small hole in the plug and screw a self tapping screw into it or insert an easyout tool.........hopefully it will undo the plug...............regards from Oz................andyd
  7. As Sniper says unbolt the upper & lower "bars"..............this is a much simpler job, although if the bushings need replacing then you need to place the bars in a LARGE bench vice and maybe a piece of pipe over a breaker bar to give extra leverage........these bushes are tight........but I'd undo the 4 bolts on each bar from the frame.......maybe even take the upper & lower A arms with bars still attached to a local machine shop or car/ truck repair shop or similar to have them at least undo the bushes to start with then you can finish the job at home........check the diamensions between the A arms before undoing to compare with the stock specs in the workshop manual also..........Jac.........welcome aboard from Australia........andyd
  8. Dunno if this helps but I have used a oil cooler from a BMC Mini for over 40 yrs in my 1940 Dodge with 318 Poly V8..........I adapted/bolted on the external oil lines from an LA 318 to the poly block that use an aftermarket oil filter bracket and Z9 filter and then ran more lines to the BMC oil cooler mounted behind the grille .....apart from anything else this added approx 2 quarts extra oil capacity to the system which hasn't done any harm.............sorry no pic of the setup apart from this showing the Z9 filter mount, you can just make out the reinforced oil lines also........found an older but clearer pic.............andyd
  9. The pic I posted previously shows the original cable wiper arms that I used........but after 30 yrs or more they were getting a little shabby so I got a nice new pair from the USA, Newport Engineering, were not cheap due to the exchange rate & postage but fit straight on and were adjustable for length and angle.............so check out Newport Engineering also............andyd,
  10. Dingo...............have you thought of using the suspension setups from an XJ6 Jaguar, ideally series 2 or 3 , both front & rear suspension units unbolt from the Jag, and have mounting arrangements that work well with horizontal chassis rails.........again they are not a bolt in but are a good viable alternative to the Mustang 11 based front ends that are generally used .......I'd also suggest posting a thread on the truck side of this forum...........regards from Oz.............andyd
  11. Here in Oz most 30's and 40's mopars used electric wipers, but 6 volt......when I installed the 318 poly etc I upgraded to 12 volt BMC(Morris, Hillman/Austin etc) cable drive wipers, I installed the wiper motor behind the glove box on the passenger side and used the BMC gear drive assemblys with one mounted upside down to give the wipers the correct action, ie, "clap your hands" action, this setup has worked fine for 35 years.............and a cable setup can have the motor mounted anywhere so long as the cable is long enough to reach the drive gearboxes................andyd
  12. I know this probably isn't much help but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and have a go...........I taught my self to weld when I bought my 1940 Dodge and replaced the front 18 inches & back 18 inches of the sills or rockers on both sides of the car, also the both sides of the cowl and the rear beaver panel below the trunk, also the area under the rear window.........all was done using Oxy welding gear, admittedly I had also started doing a panelbeating/welding course at the local tech college after work but eventually got the hang of it..........some areas took a couple of goes but really the only way to learn is to have a go.........I also widened both of the rear fenders 2" front to back so that the fenders covered the 10" rear wheels as shown.............and taught myself to paint the car as well as installing the 318 Poly, disc brakes rack & pinion etc..........this was all back in the 1970's and the car is still as built..........have a go.......you never know how good you'll get..........you mention that you have a welder in a box unused.....I asssume its a MIG?.......get hold of some scrap steel and have a go, I'd also suggest getting an Oxy set as whilst it can be fiddly to start with you can do a lot with an Oxt set but that just me............lol............Andy Douglas
  13. Thats him..............Mike Warshaw
  14. There was a guy on here a few years ago who is located in Farmingdale(?), New York..........he didn't win many friends on here but I know he has a couple of cars for sale on ebay at present, these are a 1948 Plymouth Coupe and I think an early 50's mopar...........I'll see if I car find more info & get back...........otherwise try Andy Bernbaums, I've been dealing with them for over 30 yrs and they have always treated me o/k...........Andy Douglas
  15. I'd just get some gasket paper and make a gasket.............make sure ALL bolts going into the water pump and those attaching the pump to the block etc have some sort of pipe thread sealer and a light smear of gasket goo on both sides of the gasket......at least thats what I'd do.......andyd
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