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Andydodge

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Andydodge last won the day on September 30

Andydodge had the most liked content!

About Andydodge

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Grafton Australia
  • Interests
    cars
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge sedan have had since 1971, also have had 1939 Plymouth Roadster Ute,1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1968 Dodge Phoenix & 1973 Valiant Wagon

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  • Biography
    63 yrs old
  • Occupation
    between jobs, was book & hobby shop owner

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  • Location
    Sth Grafton NSW Australia
  • Interests
    cars

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  1. Thomba....you leave the nut on to protect the threads, when the puller loosens the wheel you then remove the puller, undo the nut and remove the wheel................andyd
  2. I thought I'd have given follow up info for this thread but it was 8yrs ago and I'm trying to remember what I had for breakfast 8 minutes ago.........lol...........I replaced the seal without any real problem tho can't remember who I got it from or whether I used the seal in the Best Gasket set I had which was purchased specifically for the 230 I was building for the car...........the only issue I had was the crank hub and flange that the pulley bolted onto was rivetted together and the rivets were loose, after searching for another I tack welded the hub together with welds equidistant around the hub and it was fine..........I had no problems after that and the crank seal worked well with a speedie sleeve installed as well...........car was sold in 2013........sometimes you do stupid things.......lol............andyd
  3. Thomba..........from your 2nd pic , it appears to show just a nut, tho' it may have a flat washer or what you call a "spacer" underneath the nut.........I would undo the nut enough so that the top of the nut sits level with the top of the steering tube and therefore protecting the threads of the tube from being damaged by the centre bolt of the puller............however if the puller is like that shown by Sams pic and has what appears to be a tapered pointed end, then it should sit neatly, maybe halfway on the tapered end, but not completely into the steering tube and the nut helps to protect the tube................ ........... then what you want to happen is the center bolt of the puller to push down against the steering tube/shaft nut with the puller bolted to the three holes in the steering wheel hub.............this force of the centre bolt then pulls the wheel away from the steering column tube or shaft and the wheel comes off the tube or shaft............to reinstall you place the wheel on the shaft in the correct place on the shaft then push it on as far as it will go, install the flat washer or spacer and nut and tighten the nut to push on and secure the wheel in place.........andyd
  4. Thomba.....just a suggestion from Sams bit of advice........be careful when doing this not to cut the horn wire that comes up the steering column tube when you attach the puller to the wheel and start screwing the pullers center bolt onto the steering tube..........before doing anything you may have to double the wire over itself a couple of times enough so that it sits just below the top of the threaded part of the column, then screw the center nut back on so that its level with the threads but not tightly onto the wheel, then screw the center bolt down onto the nut which protects the threads from being chewed up( you may find that you have to place a washer over the nut as the pullers center bolt may fit into the shaft, which you don't want ,tho' Sams puller pictured appears to have a large tapered end which should stop this happening)), this should be enough to loosen the wheel on the spline and then you undo the puller etc, use a piece of stiff wire to fish the horn wire out and remove the steering wheel........its also a good idea to mark the spot where the steering wheel and shaft fit so that you install the wheel in the correct spline....sometimes the spline has a keyway spline that means the wheel only goes on one way but not always and marking the wheel/spline interface ensures that this occurs correctly.............hope this helps.............andyd
  5. Have you tried Andy Bernbaums........www.oldmoparts.com ......also Steele Rubber , even tho my experience with them is not good, others swear by them, me, I swore at them........lol..........have you tried to compare what you need with what similar year Dodge and Plymouth use and obviously Chrysler as well.......you may find something that whilst is not an exact replacement may indeed do the job or fit...........also I'd suggest being a bit more specific as "weatherstripping" could mean that which goes around the doors to seal them or that which the front/rear windows fit into.......not trying to be pedantic just trying to help...........BTW....Welcome Aboard from Oz.......Andy Douglas
  6. Unfortunately I didn't keep that info and sold the car like a dope a few years ago...but the wheels were the standard offset that Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies in that width, ie, 15x6 and 15x7 came with, I am pretty sure they were "centred" for what thats worth.........probably 3" and 3.5".........I think.........lol..........andyd.
  7. Living here in oz I obviously never met Don, however I felt like he was a true friend, always willing to impart his knowledge and experience to others and be a great mate and friend.......I am truly sorry to hear of his passing and send my condolences and thoughts to his family and friends..........my lasting thoughts of Don are summed up in the quote he attached on his postings here.........."My mechanic couldn't fix my cars brakes so he made the horn louder".........thanks Don I will miss you.......Andy Douglas
  8. Pete, sounds like you have the gold standard in Plymouth engines, I've not heard of a brass factory water tube but its something that they all should have had........andyd....
  9. Classic............where do I send the cheque.........lol.............thanks mate.......andyd
  10. And I was not bashing the HAMB.........lol........ I've been a member there for a long time, however there are some on there that expect a certain amount of etiquette and forelock tugging and can get a little precious......lol........Andy Douglas
  11. Tony.......this manifold, that Thrifty T has would fit any of the Oz 25" engines as there is no issue with the intakes fitting, however an aftermarket exhaust either steel tube or cast iron twin outlet such as Fentons may well hit on the RHD steering box and/or the pedals when they follow thru and then hit the rear cast iron header...the twin Offy intake I had, for admittedly the 23" engine, would have been fine on the RHD 41 Plymouth but USA sourced headers would not have cleared the 41 steering box and pedals which was why I had the split exhaust made from a pair of stock Plymouth exhaust manifolds and planned to have the very short front pipe as shown........all to clear the RHD steering box...............the rear exhaust outleted manifold shown was a stock Plymouth one the same as that used on the car so I knew it would clear the pedals.........there is ao third style of Plymouth exhaust manifold that has the outlet at number "7" cylinder, if that makes sense and seems to have been used here in Oz on Mopars with pendant pedals from the mid 50's onwards...........lol............andyd
  12. From what I've seen on here and in various books the 49/50 Chrysler and DeSoto use a bellcrank mounted on the front crossmember with a drag link from the steering box.....similar to what Studebaker and Packard used plus many others........but happy to be shown I'm wrong......andyd
  13. The 41 Coupe has 15x6 & 15x7 Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies with Coker Classic 195/65x15 and 235/65x15 Whitewall radials, car was lowered with 2" blocks and 1 coil cut in front.......tyres and wheels cleared inner and outer, front & back........rode well, handled well, steered great......my 40 Dodge has 14x6 and 15x10 wheels, 205x14, 275x15.......but you probably don't want to know about it........lol.......andyd
  14. Bob........have you undone those 2 bolts on each front corner?........there should be something similar at each side of the rear corner but maybe only visible once the seat base is lifted up and out of the seat frame.......does it look like a "stock" front seat?.....do you have a pic you could post?.......it should be a split bench, ie, one single base that lifts out of a seat frame that has a pair of split individual forward folding seat backs which are bolted into the actual seat frame............pics?..........andyd
  15. Or maybe Fred & Bill got the sack........or just retired........lol...........andyd
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