Jump to content

ccudahy

Members
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ccudahy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/03/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wisconsin
  • Interests
    My Plymouth, camping, home renovations, and drawing.
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe Club Coupe

Converted

  • Location
    Two Rivers, WI
  • Interests
    Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

175 profile views
  1. The hot tank process is caustic soda and water and it is heated to about 130°-140°F, if remember right about the temp. Its more for internal coolant passage mineral build up and grease removal than for rust. The place I worked for used to paint the blocks with cast iron colored paint over the rust stains, before painting the color. Most machine shops will do what you ask, to a point and if they have the capabilities. Guys would dump their engines off and say, "Do the whole thing, paint also". We would blast parts and paint pulleys and brackets black and assembly a pretty motor for
  2. Yes, anything that has oily sludge like your oil pan and tappet covers can be hot tanked. Brackets, it all depend on which ones. Sometime they will glass bead blast them depend what is on them (rust or grease).
  3. I second this statement about sandblasting engine blocks. A good machine shop will have the ability to get the critical measurements info or numbers. They had a bunch of MoToR's manuals were I use to work. If you give them the correct engine id info. Which you seem to have (1949 Dodge 230 cu. in. 23-1/2" block), thanks to keithb7. They will measure everything they can, or what you give them (crank, rods, cam, etc.) and give you some option in which directions to go. At least that is what we did, when I worked in the machine shop at the auto parts store.
  4. Spring Door Stop. It can be gotten at most Hardware and Home Improvement stores.
  5. Is this what you are think of? Lisle Spark Tester
  6. Is this what you are thinking? Small Right Angle Spark Plug Boot (Old Style With Spring Type Ignition Terminal) Includes Spring Type Ignition Terminal -Old Style “Sparky” Ignition Terminal & Boot Assembly For 7mm Wire -Commonly used on Small Engines such as Chain Saws & Lawn mowers
  7. Eaton Detroit Spring - https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/db/es-partsinquiry2.php?syear=1948&smake=Dodge&smodel=D24S, Deluxe&sbody=2+DR+Coupe+3+Passenger&seng=L6+3.8L+-+230cid
  8. Thanks for pointing that out for me 61spit. The info in the technical menu is the same typo that I have found in other places. How can you adjust #2 intake and both valves at #5 in Stage A, and adjust the #5 intake and both valves for #2 in Stage B. Cylinder #5 and #2 have three valves? 14 valves!🤔I don't think so. Clarification would be nice.
  9. For initial cold checking, when Piston #1 is at top dead center what tappets can be set? Then which one can be set when Piston #6 is at top dead center? The reference material I have been able to find about that has a miss print or typo with half of same tappets being set in both positions. I know that is not right. I also know its best to do adjustments hot.
  10. Since everyone was so helpful with the steering suggestion and giving me hints on how to pull the rear drums. Thanks again! I am thinking about freshening up the distributor. After reading about motors stumbling when the throttle is opened I think the vacuum advance needs a rebuild. I know years ago I needed a rebuilt dizzy for my Slant 6. That really woke that baby up! Anything besides the vacuum advance, bushings, points, condenser, cap & rotor to worry about checking?
  11. JBNeal thanks for the tip will keep that also in mind this spring when we get to the steering issues!
  12. At least your wife thinks that about you. Mine looks at me like I got a black permanent ink S on my forehead!😂
  13. I have not tried to take mine off yet. Kinda nervous after reading all the horror stories on the forum. Hours spent breaking tools and then ripping the bearing out of the drum when it does come loose for them to still be stuck on the axle!😭 Just trying to put a game plan together when the time comes. Thanks for the info, Sniper and kencombs!
  14. Thanks for the info and the offer! Just a thought since it seems like such a problem.👍
  15. I maybe got a dumb question here. Sounds like its a pain in the hinder to get these drums off to start with. Once you have them off, do what ever needs to be done and are ready to button every thing up. Can a guy put some anti-seize on the axle shaft to keep it from sticking again or is it the nature of the beast when tightening the nut on a tapered shaft?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use