Rear Hub Stuck

[dmdec]

Hope one of you guys can help.  Trying to replace rear brake shoes on my 51 Cranbrook, and ran into a problem.   After removing the castle nut on the right side, I could not get the hub to slide off.   Got a slide hammer and put some heat on the hub.  Nothing doing, the thing wont budge.  Any suggestions ?

[casper50]

get the proper puller and a very large hammer.   Mine took a lot of force. i.e. a 5lb sledge to get it to come off.  there are videos on the web

Edited August 6, 2016 by casper50

[oldodge41]

You need a hub puller as pictured below. Remember to keep the castle nut on the axle, loosely, when using the puller. Those drums/hubs let go with some force. The nut will keep it from flying off and doing damage to you or nearby items. Use a socket with breaker bar to tighten the hub puller as much as possible and then put the cross piece on the puller and smack it with a heavy hammer. Prepare to be startled when it lets loose. 

Casper50 beat me to it. I type too slow I guess. 

Edited August 6, 2016 by oldodge41

[dpollo]

Google    Removing Plymouth Brake Drums   and you should come up with a pictorial How -to using a puller as shown above that I prepared some years ago.

 

*  I checked and it is the top one posted by The Plymouth Bulletin.  There are others too.

Edited August 6, 2016 by dpollo

[knuckleharley]

There is only one way to do this,and even that isn't easy.  Central is a industrial-strength puller designed for pulling rear brake drums from cars with tapered axles with keys,a BFH,and tons of patience.

 

Install said puller by bolting the arms to the lug bolts,centering the big center screw in the axle end,tightening the "striker arm" down on the puller,smacking the hell out of the arm with the BGH to apply pressure,and then using the same hammer to tap around the face and outside of the drum to get some vibrations going to help break it free. Then smack the hell out of the arm again and see if it moves any.

 

Repeat as necessary while being VERY careful to not "mushroom" the axle end. One way to do this is to reinstall the castle nut over the axle end backwards,and screw it down far enough so the flat end still surrounds and protects the threaded axle end;

 

The key here is pressure and time aided by brute force. Unless you are insanely lucky,it's going to take hours to get just one of the drums off. Almost all of it just waiting for the pressure to work it's magic to break loose decades of rust and a pressure fit. Meanwhile you do other things and occasionally wander out to the car to beat on the pressure arm of the drum remover to make sure the pressure never eases.

 

Sooner or later you will hear a lout "pop" as it breaks loose,and then you can start repeating this process on the other side. This may not even happen the same day unless you are lucky. Depends on your patience and how lucky you are.

 

 

Ok,here is a link to a photo of a rear brake drum removal tool. Do NOT even think about trying to use this style because you will bend or break the brake drum. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

http://www.eastwood.com/brake-drum-remover.html?SRCCODE=MN140070

 

The one below or any of the alternatives show directly below it are the type of drum puller you need. Don't waste your time or money on anything else.

 

https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-20-2029-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B012P0QV5K/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1470490327&sr=1-2&keywords=brake+drum+puller

 

The one in the photo is the cheapest one I could find,but it seems to me the arm on it is too short to give good leverage,and if it were me,I would be looking for an identical model with a longer striking arm. Amazon has one by KTC for $62 that seems to have a longer arm. I can't figure out how to post a link to that one without posting a URL to my amazon account.

 

Do we really need to tell you to lightly grease the tapered  axle end and key when putting the drums back on?

 

DAMN! By the time I looked up those links other people had done posted it twice!

Edited August 6, 2016 by knuckleharley

[Don Coatney]

This is what it will look like once removed. Note the rust on the tapered axle shaft. That  is why they are difficult to remove.

 

[Fastback50]

Had this same problem a few months back.  I ordered the puller of Amazon that Don posted a link to, and it worked fine.  My hubs were stuck like a son of a gun too, but with that puller, some PB Blaster, and a dead blow hammer to use on that wishbone on the puller, it was easy.  Best $40 I ever spent. Good luck

[P15-D24]

Read this... http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html

[dmdec]

Thanks to all you guys.  You've been a great help !!

[Andydodge]

This is the Coxhead puller that I purchased 45 yrs ago when I first got involved in mopars ........it has never seen a brake drum that it didn't like.........lol.........bottom line is that you cannot get too big a puller.......get the biggest you can afford and you will appreciate its abilities......lol........good luck, andyd

[dale]

I took a half inch plate and drilled the wheel bolt pattern so I could bolt it to the hub using the lug nuts. Then drilled and tapped out the center for a 1/2 fine thread bolt. Got it all bolted on and both hubs came off without even tightening the bolt. Go figure. All that work for nothing.. One in a million Id bet though.

[Niel Hoback]

Maybe the hubs were frightened when they saw it coming!

[deathbound]

Read this... http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html

Best answer with the least amount of typing. Right at the top of the page in the "Resources" section.

[50 coupe]

Best answer with the least amount of typing. Right at the top of the page in the "Resources" section.

 Just noticed the "California Uber Alles" under your avatar. A song way before it's time, unfortunately that time has arrived.

Edited August 10, 2016 by 50 coupe

[deathbound]

Just noticed the "

California Uber Alles" under your avatar. A song way before it's time, unfortunately that time has arrived.

Yep, Jello rules!

[Tom Skinner]

Take out the Cotter Pins, Loosen the Castle Nuts some. Take her for a roundabout ride. When you hear the POPs park and remove the drums.

[LFT_QBA_1980]

Does anyone know if the puller from Autozone work?  Its only $25.00 to borrow it. Its part number is 27037. It also says front puller. I am looking for rear drum remover. If not I will need to purchase one from Amazon. It says its 10lbs. any help will be great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012P0QV5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER 

These are the specs. 

Brand	TruePower
Model	20-2029
Item Weight	10 pounds
Product Dimensions	9.8 x 5.3 x 5.2 inches
Item model number	20-2029
Manufacturer Part Number	20-2029
	Hub Puller

[Plymouthy Adams]

the above listed item should work..ensure that you are always mounted tightly to the hub with the lug bolts....be sure the screw is centered to the axle also, this centering and keep it centered while apply pressure is the main thing to keep the force equally distributed....resist the urge to strik ethe end of the screw when tight...rotational smacking with the hammer is the approved method of force..

[Dan Hiebert]

I bought one of those hub pullers from Northern Tool in many years ago.  Earned its keep many times.  It has been mentioned several times in the thread, proper tools (hub puller, BFH) and brute force are required.  I've pulled the rear hubs off the D24 four times, one of which was a mere week or so after a previous removal, and each time required a goodly amount of effort, but not a significant amount of time. 

[P15-D24]

What hasn't been mentioned many times is be sure to back off the brake shoes with the adjusters before trying to remove the drum. 

[LFT_QBA_1980]

Thank you all. Will be working on it this weekend. 

 

[Damian]

Hi guys, not sure if this site is still going. My ‘50 Plymouth Deluxe P19 is in a shop for a safety check. When it came to rear brakes he says the cotter pins which have to come out first apparently have been melted probably in a prior attempt to remove. So he wants to bring in all new axles etc in case when he tries to free it up he breaks something and can’t get the wheel back in to get it off the hoist.

Anyone got experience with these pins and suggestions I can pass on to my worried mechanic.

Thanks in advance 

[Young Ed]

That is the strangest thing ever. He should have no trouble removing with either a drill or a punch if there isn't enough to pull out normally

[kencombs]

It sounds like your mechanic has no experience with the type of rear axle/hub/drum used on your Mopar.  I'd strongly recommend finding one that does.

[RobertKB]

8 minutes ago, kencombs said:

It sounds like your mechanic has no experience with the type of rear axle/hub/drum used on your Mopar.  I'd strongly recommend finding one that does.

Ditto. Absolutely agree! Your present mechanic could do a whole lot of very hard to fix damage. 

Edited January 10, 2021 by RobertKB