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deathbound last won the day on December 29 2015

deathbound had the most liked content!


About deathbound

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  • Location
    Long Beach, California Uber Alles
  • Interests
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Coupe
    1962 Harley Davidson FLH Panhead (obviously not a car)


  • Location
    Long Beach, California Uber Alles/38 Plymouth P6 DeLuxe Coupe
  • Interests
    vintage motorcycles & cars

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  1. I like the way these cars (ok, ALL cars from the 20's thru 60's) look lowered, compared to stock. Keep us updated with "after" pics.
  2. Aren't there shims in the box at the end of the steering shaft that control end play? Maybe the bearings/race in the box are worn?
  3. I'm using Langdon's GM mini HEI unit and very happy with it. I don't like the way it looks, so may convert my original dizzy with the Pertronix kit I have.
  4. Personally, I wouldn't spend the time or money, since they're temporary. I think a set of black stock wheels with beauty rings and/or hubcaps would like nice on your truck. If you're determined to paint them, I would go with black, chrome lugs, maybe with the beauty rings to separate the tire from the wheel. Post follow up pics whatever you decide.
  5. Looks like the front and rear are the same collapsed length for both '37/'38 (which applies to this thread).
  6. Here's my thread when I rebuilt my front end on my '38 Plymouth Coupe: http://p15-d24.com/topic/26625-new-front-disc-brakes-front-end-rebuild-steering-rebuild-for-the-38-plymouth/?hl=%20front%20%20end%20%20rebuild Been a while, hope it helps.
  7. You mentioned this 3 or 4 times and are exactly right. Measure stock shock(or known working shock) fully compressed and fully extended center of mounting stud to center of mounting stud & mounting stud dimension. Exactly what I did for my '38 Ply Coupe. Took those dimensions to Napa and looked through their book myself, less than 10 minutes, had the part #'s I needed. Each page has the different mounting type designation & with that and the dimensions, found something within a 1/2" each way. My car is lowered, so I adjusted the measurements accordingly. On vaca, so no access to my car for part #'s, but I think all 4 were the same (again, lowered, so stock is out the window). Good luck.
  8. Best answer with the least amount of typing. Right at the top of the page in the "Resources" section.
  9. Thanks. I looked into them a little further and it seems they are a permanent type plug, but can see where a concern would be with not relieving the the forces from freezing (not an issue where I live). I tried calling, but for some reason, the East coast vendors close about 3 hours earlier than us West coasters. I like the way the copper looks with Reze's black engine block. Here's a link, for anyone interested: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-1011-02483.aspx?origin=keyword
  10. What kind of freeze plugs are those?
  11. How much $ and time into this so far?
  12. Unless your 6V starter needed a rebuild, it would be fine on 12V. I've been using my original 6V starter for at least 5 years since I converted to 12V with no problems. Also, had the original 6V wiring been in good condition, it's more than adequate for 12V sytems. If you're looking for originallity, Rhode Island Wire or YNZ has original looking cloth covered wire harnesses with modern plastic coated (or whatever material is used) wire inside, but very pricey.
  13. I did mine on my '38 P6 just as Tod described. Bought a NOS drag link repair kit, but I reused my pitman arm (part with the ball), which had some wear. I rebuilt my steering box and replaced all the tie rods at the same time. Steering has virtually no play. I used to get low speed "death wobbles", no longer.
  14. Who made the headers? If you shifted the kinked linkage with the spring to the other side of the carb linkage would it center up more on the carb base? One thing I found out the hard way, do not use the original "sandwich" type heat riser gasket for your hot water plate. I had to make one out of gasket material. Looks good.
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