Tom Skinner

Gents, Nice Jobs. I bought an extra on ebay just in case I screwed up my original about 5 years ago for around $40. The Original was running a little slow losing about 10 minutes a week. I took it out of my dash, and just gently pulled the tabs back. Opened it carefully no flying springs. I cleaned it and oiled it with a gently blast of PB Blaster. Put it back in and it works fine. The ebay one same thing and even painted the hands back with white paint. I tested it off my battery on my car it also runs fine. Both original 6 Volts Clocks as is the system of my car. It ain't rocket science. A patient mechanical sort of method is called for here though no Mister Bad Wrenches or anyone in a rush to try to force anything along. Slow and Steady wins the race. It is very rewarding to accomplish in fact I encourage anyone to try it. Tom

Noisy Valves are happy Valves

I'm on board with that. Service Manuals. What a concept. True dat.

How about a Clutch adjustment? It doesn't cost anything. Gotta try something it sounds like.

One can also set their 592 plugs to .035 Gap as well as they come set at .030. Any Resistor Plug should be set at .035, or reset them

Once again. Do you have any Clutch Judder? Leakage will wet down a clutch and cause slippage the Front Seal or Fluid Seal are possibly bad but it sounds like Clutch Disk slippage or Judder. Smell has nothing to do with a proper inspection of the Clutch Housing area. Just my humble opinion

I had to Sleeve my Yolk. They Groove, and make things very un-groovy L.O.L.

Make one. Faster and Cheaper

LazyK, My thoughts exactly. One must position a seal correctly. That is to say to hold back the Pumpkin Grease it must be in the correct position. The Cupped side facing the Pumpkin, not facing the Drum/End of an Axle. The Seals shown in the above pictures appear to be in backwards. In my Humble Opinion. I am not trying to incite anyone here - just to help out. Tom

Jsabah, It looks like your seal is in backward?

I just have a 250.6 Six (C-38). So I may be off on some of the Numbers here however my Manual shows a C-39 (323 Eight) as follows: 1. Set Points at 18 Thousands 2. Check Dwell @ 27 -30 3. Start - set Timing 2-6 BTDC (Lean toward 6 because of modern Gas) 4. Use Vacume Gauge to set Carburator Mixture @ 19-21 Deg of Mercury (Or as high as you can get it) 5 Set RPM Last (usually in the 450 range at Idle for a six. 6. Use a decent Tach and Dwell with a RPM Gauge to set things up correctly No run good - something wrong - Conduct tests - Compression Test Cylinders - Vacumm Leaks with Starter fluid around Intake Manifold Gaskets etc etc

Correction: Hecho en Mexico Senor! L.O.L.

I agree with Andy. Just get a gig going separately. That Radio is not hard to repair. I use my phone using (Pandora) with a small speaker attached to my phone at shows. Not a big deal.

I am not sure what you'all are talking about. Goodyear in Concord N.C. put my 1948 Chrysler Royal on their rack and aligned my front end in 20 minutes. It rides like a new Cadillac (I know, I know, what T.H. kind of foreign car is that)? L.O.L.

You have got to re-torque it when hot, otherwise you are wasting your time. Smell the plugs. Change the oil. Do not take a chance on internal engine damage