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Tom Skinner

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Tom Skinner last won the day on November 19 2017

Tom Skinner had the most liked content!

About Tom Skinner

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor
  • Birthday 11/13/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Huntersville NC
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Chrysler Royal Sedan

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Had 1948 Royals all my adult life
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Huntersville NC
  • Interests
    Restoration - Stock

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  1. I googled Sisson Choke (2040 Mopar) has one for Plymouths) $89 in good working order with a asbestos gasket. No need to pay $275 on ebay. If your car is worth $15,000 that would be 1/54 the value of it. Incredible and outrageous in my way of thinking. I would buy the $89 one if it is needed. I do not need one.
  2. Rich, I bought my extras long ago. I have had 1948 Chrysler Royals since 1973. My first 1948 Royal cost $600. These old buses are only worth say 15-18K finished. (Chrome and all) So I ask a silly question why would anyone pay $225 for a choke? or $475 for a Fulton repro sunvisor or $$375 for mud guards? or $275 for a clear shifter knob? I wouldn't. Dennis Bickford sells the clear knobs for $35-40 etc. etc. etc. One would be totally upside down on the car lickedy splits paying those prices even if one does all his own labor. so trying to justify today's high ebay pricing is a mut
  3. I gave a couple of these Sisson Chokes away to the guys in my Chrysler Club about 7 years ago. If one changes out the gasket every few years, cleans and adjusts the Sisson Choke from time to time - usually at severe Season - Temperature Changes/ Winer/Summer, one should not have any trouble with them. I do keep a nice extra just in case. About 10 years ago I snagged 2 of them on ebay for $14. It seems inflation has fixed that. LOL
  4. Any older Mom and Pop Hardware will have one. We had Faulk Bros in Charlotte NC (since 1946) they would have had one, but sold out a few years back. Ace Hardware has a really fine selection of Brass fittings, take some time to dig through their stuff if you have one near you. We also have a Black Hawk Hardware in Charlotte NC that might also. There is better solutions to a $29/75 cent fitting, for that I am sure Tom
  5. John, I really do not know for a fact, but here goes: There is a Bracket at the bottom of the Motor that holds it up/in place. Disconnect the Armatures at mid-points/clips. Disconnect the Switch at the top/Dash. Also any wires that might need disconnecting. I seems to me by looking under the dash at my 1948 Chrysler Royal it would go allot easier if the Radio was removed first. I have removed my Radio for repair in the past and saw the Wiper Motor was much more easy to get to in that fashion. I understand there are four wires at the Switch. My Service Manual doesn't really cover
  6. From the Book: Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 1, by Robert Notman. Page 27, and page 28. "To test the Condenser without removing it from the Distributor, crank the engine until the fiber rubber block of the points in the distributor is midway between two lobes of the cam. Turn the vehicle ignition on and snap the contact points open and closed by hand. Observe the contact points for evidence of flash. No arcing across the points indicate a grounded condenser. A slight flash indicate a normal condenser." I know this sound quite simple, however it is also
  7. Westhaus29, I concur. Somtin ain't right. Turn dat Dizzy around G.D. Or Dat Oil Pump 1 or dee odder, LOL Tom
  8. Dodgefran, I bought my wiring from Rhode Island Wiring. Everything is tagged and color coded just right on both ends of every wire. Go slow tackle a little every day. Engine bay one Day, Transmission the next, Under the Dash the next, etc.. You will be pleased with the results. This is just my humble opinion, not a pitch for R.I.W. . Also when I had a question I could call them and a technical gal there whose name escapes me now (it has been 10 years) answered the phone in person and answered all my questions accurately and in a very friendly way. Good luck with your choice. Tom
  9. It is good to use the cork gasket. Seal one side. Let Dry. Use Grease on other side and not have to keep replacing it everytime you might have to go back in. Of Course an old gasket is just that, and would probably need replacing. Don't over tighten Thumb Screws (snug is enough)
  10. I do not know why my pictures keep going upside down
  11. There are You Tube instructions for this. It is easy to do (ubung macht den meister) practice makes perfect. Get the colors you need - do not mix enamels and oils - start with enamels finish with enamels.
  12. I was on my way to work 6:30 AM in December in Charlotte NC I-85 when a girl hit and ran the back of my pick up truck, while passing me she never stopped, instead she got over in the left lane and floored it. I was shaken up. I didn't get her plate number. There is a new breed on the streets today, they don't care about people. Only their pocket books. I see this old timer was out on a Sunday. I only drive my '48 on Sundays, real early, when the drunks and drug attacks are still in bed. Stay on the back roads. The Interstates are not safe for our old busses. People go 80 mph down I-8
  13. Glad to see you got it running!
  14. When you went back to Points etc did you static time it? It probably has been knocked out of timing. See technical section above for steps to static time the engine Tom
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