Tom Skinner

I believe it has an S - B - H designation on it. I tried doing away with it by rerouting wires directly to my horn relay which looks like yours with no luck, It is a 6 Volt Horn Relay I bought at Carpenters (Ford Supply) for $14.99 so I am not complaining. Why the He double Hockey Sticks do I need it?

Not to complicate this post, however, when my horn quit working, I saw I had to replace a relay to make it work again. I never had this, or saw this configuration on my previous Chrysler Royal or my Chrysler Club member's Chryslers (All 1946-1948) Why do I need this relay? It is pictured to the left of my Horn Relay below

Jeff, Although I believe all Chrysler Royal's came with Front Rubber Mats instead of Carpet from 1942-1949, you will probably need to go to carpet. I would venture to guess the Front Rubber Mats on ebay for 1954 Plymouths would probably fit - I cannot be sure. Another Source is Newark Carpet in East Orange New Jersey (for Carpet). I have Carpet in my 1948 Royal. If only a Roll Rubber Mat Company would produce a ribbed Mat wide and Long enough (on ebay) I would probably buy a 6 foot piece say 3 feet wide and cut one myself. The carpet is a pain to remove (because the front seat requir

Bartender Floyd, That was near Rt3 I believe near the George Washington Bridge. By the way my Uncle Sonny Ryan owned a Bar (The Coronet) in East Orange NJ on Dodd Street and Prospect Street. We would visit there often as Beer was 25 cents a Glass and a Fiver would keep you in Pretzels, Hard Boiled Eggs and Beer for a whole Football Game on Sunday Afternoons

Didn't mean to double post

Also, Do the new electric fuel pumps have a regulator for pressure? Our manual pumps run between 3-6 pounds of pressure. I think electric one push it out more than 6. I do not use one. I have run regular 558's for 47 years with only one break down on the road. I drove my date home to Hasbrook Heights NJ one freezing rainy night in January 1975 (Her Dad told me she had to be home by midnight) Being from a Polish Catholic Family and all I had her Mary Ellen home at 11:57PM. Her dad was a Machinist and I didn't want to piss him off. I turned around to go back to Bloomfield NJ and a

Also at second glance it looks like you may have 2 Gaskets up top in there - they - looks doubled up??? Not to knock anything Knuckleharley said - because I have upmost respect for him, however, one shouldn't need to pump the accelerator pedal like hell to start one of these flatheads. One pump down a third, or to the floor to shoot gas into the manufold should do. Otherwise perhaps you need to look at plugs, condenser, coil, connections etc for a reason for a slow start. Grinding along to start it floods the engine and cannot help the starter at all.

In his post Rallyace makes a good point about setting the float a tad lower than Manual suggests (I think that the manual call out 5/64" from the top of Carb edge). The other reason may be the needle and seat may be allowing some fuel past after shutting down (That's where gas enters the carb through the Brass Fitting) Some times that needle is worn or damaged from even tiny rust particles from the gas tank. I cut new gaskets from stock - its saves on those rebuild Kits. Open the top of the Carb set the float down a little, check your needle and seat. put in a homemade gask

A Clock perhaps?

Bern, I am pretty sure it can be found at a salvage yard out west for less than that ebay grouping I do not have one or I would send it to you. Tom

Bern, follow the wire down through the Steering Post - it leads to a Horn Relay. I would think you need to install a horn ring at the steering wheel as well. That part you are reffering to is definitely needed. Good Luck Tom

Paul, Once you determine you have spark at the points, static time the motor (read up on the process in our technical area above). Static Timing is setting the Ignition timing with the motor not running. Piston #1 must be at Top Dead Center in order to start with. Remove the Coil Wire (Center of the Dis. Cap and hold it near a ground, loosen the distributor and rotate the distributor until a spark jumps at the wire/ground) Now you are ready to start the motor and use a timing light to dial it in more. By the way the key must be turned on when doing the above don't get

Wow! Just like I have fixed them for 47 years! I just wish I was young enough to do another like this guy. 100 percent ambition. 100 percent perspiration. Not 100 percent preparation, however, I give this guy a 100 percent for gitin it done. Yeeeehaaa L.O.L.

Dogebe4ya, Thank you! Tom

I have been offered a free Transmission. So I have a question: Will a M6 Fluid Drive Transmission that is taken off of a 1948 Chrysler C-40 Crown Imperial (8 Cylinder) fit a C-38 M6 Fluid Drive Chrysler Royal (Six Cylinder)? I have a Friend (Mechanic in his 70's) that said the C-38 and C-39 (Royal and New Yorker) would, but the Imperial C-40 might not. There might be bolt up issues. This would just be a spare tranny for me so there is no immediate issue as far as using it goes. Can anyone know or say for sure that it would or not or anything different? Thank you.