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Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. Some years ago I bought a <different brand> pick up that I should have left set on the car lot. Oil was really black. Drained it & dumped in some used ATF, ran it for 3 minutes, on idle, with my hand on the ignition, to shut it down immediately I I heard anything that sounded different. Drained the now VERY BLACK ATF & put in oil. I would imagine that that process washed out a lot of the sludge (if there was any), because the oil stayed clean and new looking after that. If there was any metal in an engine before a procedure like that, I would suspect a good bit of it would come out with the ATF.
  2. OK. I just looked at the cover, didn't compare details. Thanks.
  3. Isn't a copy of this one already here someplace? I know I have it from some site or another, and I believe my copy also has the same business name on the front cover.
  4. Speaking of the up-turned wheel cover with a fire under the oil pan, people did that in Minnesota when I lived there during the mid to late 70's. I had a 62 Chrysler, and I tried to install one of those radiator hose engine block warmers, but something about it didn't work. I just thought I had to have something like that, since everybody was telling me that when I took the car up there the first time (from Oklahoma). I never had any issues with it starting, even in -40 F. temps (not wind chill, actual temp), and also even after I left the car up there over Christmas one year, when I had a ride back to Oklahoma with my Uncle & Aunt, and the battery froze while I was gone. Took it inside & let it thaw for several days, then charged it up again. Found out later that it was only producing around 9 volts, and the car STILL started in the winter. (Only found out after I put it in my next car, a 72 Dodge Coronet, and it had trouble starting, ultimately due to a failing starter, but the first thing tested was the battery.)
  5. Thanks everyone for the comments, information, and ideas. I also found a write-up about this at the following link: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/turn-signals.html The electrical section I found especially interesting, as I am "challenged" in that area.
  6. I don't know what sort of 'evidence' was used to assume that it was a good idea, but I know my Dad always did it on the old flat heads. (I don't recall that he ever did on the first V8 he owned, even though it didn't have A/C.) It was an opportunity to test the thermostat, and to give the engine a good flushing.
  7. Here are the two wiring diagrams I have, a four wire one I got someplace back in 2010, and the Chinese 7-wire one. I may have I gotten both of these from this site - I didn't record the source information. That reminds me - Why does the Chinese one have a wire going to the brake switch?
  8. Not really trying to re-invent anything, just need to know how to complete the necessary list of parts. (And, I just like to understand how stuff works. Always did. One of those kids that was always taking stuff apart. Now I'm just a kid who is going on 65.) I have an aftermarket "hotrod' turn signal kit, but it doesn't include a flasher, or relays. Didn't even have a wiring diagram, but found one for "Chinese turn signal kit" on-line. I also have a turn signal switch out of a 93 Chrysler T&C I scrapped out, and I dismantled it to see how the automatic cancel system works. Had to take the switch apart to get to that part, and cut some rivets. Then I opened up my Chinese signal switch to compare them. Vast difference. The Chinese one is really crudely made in comparison to the MoPar one. The actual switch in the Chinese one is not closed, where as the MoPar one is completely sealed. (I didn't dismantle the Chinese switch itself, but I suspect I would see a big difference in the quality of the contacts and contact plates as well.) Another question about standard (small) dash indicator bulbs - would they get too hot for those plastic light tubes they use with LEDs? Thank you both for your comments. All appreciated, and helpful. Could someone tell me a part number for a flasher & relays? (Do I need two relays for a 7 wire configuration? That's what the Chinese signal switch is, 7 wire.)
  9. I’m not from Missouri, but when it comes to electrical stuff, their state motto of “The Show Me State” describes me. (I usually build a demo of stuff on the bench, so I can see it, not just a drawing on paper.) So, at the risk of being obnoxious, here are some more questions for you all to ignore or laugh at. First, I’m talking 6 volt system here – not interested in switching to 12 VDC. Re: signal flashers Thermal (bimetalic) vs Electronic? (I think I will NOT be using LEDs any place – don’t really like the looks of them, but for the signal indicator lights, with a single LED, maybe.) I watched a video on You Tube about the pluses & minuses of each, and wonder what you all have used in a 6 VDC system. (2 or 3 terminal, etc.) Re: Relays From what I understand, the signal switch will last longer, and can be a physically smaller switch, if the system incorporates relays, instead of sending all that current through the switch itself. Regarding the size of the switch, if a relay is used, could a signal switch from a 12 VDC automobile be used in a 6 VDC system? Re: 4 wire vs 7 wire signal switches Am I correct in assuming that the main difference is that the former connects both front & rear signal lights on the same wire, and the latter separates front & rear? What about the signal terminal lights – are they typically on yet another set of wires, like on a separate part of the switch?
  10. Regarding the stuff stuck to the main spring on my speedometer, as I said above, I stuffed the area with cotton, and soaked it with WD-40. Soaked it again a day or so later. I don't really know what it was, because it didn't really dissolve. But having the cotton stuffed in there, I was able to use one small jeweler's screw driver to hold the spring over against the cotton, and use another one to chip enough of that stuff off that the different spots don't catch against one another anymore. Haven't put it back together yet - still looking at how I could add turn signal indicator lights into the face of the speedometer. (I know it's no big deal, but think it would be a nice touch.)
  11. Found this picture of how I remember the floppy drives were positioned on ours.
  12. Our first computer was also a Kaypro II. But I would have said that the floppy drives on ours were horizontal, not vertical. (Probably just bad memory on my part.) But it died a long time ago, and I just kept parts of the aluminum case for building other things (until we moved back to the States in 2003). The only things I still have from it are the power cord, and the blue plastic floppy disk case, which works for CDs. We bought it in 1984, and moved to Brazil the following year. It lasted 6 years in that humid climate. Probably could have fixed it, but the technology had moved on so far by then, that we switched from the CP/M operating system up to an MSDOS laptop that we could power off of a single solar panel & a car battery. That opened up many new possibilities as to what all we could do while out in the remote Indian village where we were doing Bible translation work.
  13. Since you were there when he did the work, I'm curious if he spun it up to calibrate the speedometer to accurate speed as relative to the odometer. (In other words, if you spun it at 60 MPH steady for exactly an hour, the odometer should also have moved exactly 60 miles.) When I have done on-line searches about calibrating a speedometer, if it isn't about how to mess with the modern electronic ones, then it's about getting the right gear set at the transmission to adjust for different size tires, etc. The part I would like to know about has nothing to do with anything outside of the speedometer itself - only the tension or resistance setting of the main spring, and of course also related to the magnet issue, which you mention, and about which I knew nothing until reading here on the forum. I hadn't though about it that the magnets might loose their magnetism.
  14. I took the odometer assembly apart, and moved the scratched wheel from the hundreds spot to the ten thousands spot. (All of the wheels are identical except the tenths, which of course is white on black, instead of black on white.) So now the scratched '6' will not appear until the odometer rolls around to 60,000 miles. Much chance of that?!? (Current mileage is 91,712.2.) I know I will never see it roll around that far. I mentioned it in another thread, but has anyone added turn signal indicator lights into the speedometer back plate? (I kinda' remember reading about someone doing that, but it didn't come up in a search. I saw the stuff about the optional high beam indicator bezel that had the two arrow signal indicators. Probably about is scarce as hens teeth.)
  15. Old thread, but after looking at lots of old threads that mention turn signal indicator lights for the P15, this one was actually the latest one. Anyway, the post or comment I recall having read at one time in the dusty past, that one I didn't find. It seems to me that I remember someone showing how they added turn signal indicator lights into their speedometer. Does anyone remember where that post/comment was? (Or how it was done.) I have my speedometer torn down right now, so if I want to do this modification, this would be the time, before I repaint the backing plate of the speedo box. (The part that is behind the lens, and is flat black. At least mine appears to be flat black now, or was it originally gloss or satin black? Anyone know?)
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