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Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. Reminds me of what my grandpa said when my dad put 36" overhangs on the house he had built in 64. My grandparents' house had virtually no overhang at all, and he said that the first stiff wind would take that roof right off. This was in northeast Oklahoma. And the roof is still on that house. I had even bigger overhang on the house I built in the Amazon, but that was because we had no glass in our windows, only screen, and no shutters, either. I always said that the house had one door and one window. The window started at the left side of the door, and ended at the right side. (We just had a half wall all the way around the house. we needed all of the breeze we could get.)
  2. I don't care for pole barn construction, either. I do have a deck on my house that is on treated 4x4's, built just before they changed the formula. Later put up a fence, and after lining up the whole row as near perfect as I could, those posts twisted like crazy. Next fence I put up I used (untreated) locust posts. They have stayed just as straight as they were when I put them in. Speaking of pole barns, however, when my oldest brother was still in HS, he got a calf to raise, and we put up a small open front barn using split telephone poles as the posts. That must have been in 68 or 69, and the last time I was on the home place (a year ago), that barn was still standing, with no signs of rotted posts that I saw. (That would have been the old creosote poles.) My son-in-law (who designs trusses for his work) is a big fan of pole buildings, but talks about some sort of deal where they set concrete posts in the ground, then bolt the 4x4's to steel brackets cast onto the top of the concrete. Still prefer frame construction, I guess, since that's what I have been involved in building myself. I know it's more expensive, but I don't care to put money into something that won't last the test of time.
  3. My son-in-law's dad put up a 'cabin' for them to use during their first year of marriage (something he had done for his siblings who had married before he & my daughter got married), and he used the foam blocks (I think 12 or 16" wide). There are metal tabs that run through the blocks, so you can attach interior wall panels, and siding on the outside. Some of the voids (both vertical & horizontal) also get poured full of concrete, but with the foam on either side, there is very little thermal transfer. The main thing I would have done differently would be to do ferro cement on the outside below grade.
  4. I knew that he was selling off at least some of his cars, but I had no idea it was this close for him. Yes, he will be missed. There's no one else quite like him, and no one else is as good at "thread bombing" as he was. (Yanking a discussion off topic in a sneaky manner. It was rather aggravating at first - you just had to appreciate the art demonstrated in the way he pulled it off.)
  5. Thanks, but yeah, that's a long ways. My brother (in Oklahoma) has one out of a 53 Cranbrook, but I don't recall if it had backup lights, or not. I reckon, though, that the transmission would have had the threaded hole, even if it was just plugged. I had to crawl under my car to see if I had the hole or not, because my engine is out of a 55 model (came with the car - as a basket case - when I bought it). I thought I might actually have a later transmission as well, but it must be the original. I was just working on scanning my Plymouth manual last night when I just happened to notice that diagram. (The manual covers P15, P17 & 18, and P19 & 20; that is, 46 - 1st series 49, 49 2nd series, & 1950.)
  6. Old thread, but possibly best place for my comment. I see that starting with the P17 & 18 (1949 second series), the transmission has a threaded hole on the left side of the transmission for a back up light switch. I do realize that there are other ways to get this going on the P15 & earlier cars, but just wondering if anyone has drilled & tapped their P15 trannie to take the backup light switch?
  7. As I recall on the 53 DeSoto my folks had (in my brother's 'collection' now), you just push back and down on the front of the cushion to unhook the cushion frame from hooks that stick up from the floor (under the seat, perhaps 10 inches or so inward from the outer sides).
  8. The age old question: Is it on the lid, or in the groove around the deck lid opening? .....
  9. If there is a filler panel between the bumper & the bottom of the grill, check to see if it is bolted to the grill frame. (On the P15, that panel is fastened to both the bumper horns and to the grill frame.)
  10. Here's a hint from my brother, who was a professional painter, eventually painting jet liners (even the royal jet for a Middle East king): After you think your surface work is finished, and primer has been wet sanded, shoot it with a clear. The shininess will allow you to see the really small imperfections you cannot feel (mostly small scratches from sanding, or very small dimples, etc.).
  11. Both of my P15s had/have that same color. (Sorry, I don't know the paint number.) I'm trying to think if the 53 DeSoto my folks had was also brown, but I'm thinking it was some shade of gray.
  12. The 46 & 47s had 16" wheels, the 48s went to 15". I don't know when Chrysler started using 14" wheels on the full-sized cars, but my 62 Chrysler Newport had come with 14s. (It was the family car since 66, and about the first thing my dad did was to put the wheels & wheel covers off of the 53 DeSoto on it.)
  13. I'm wondering if it might be better to use a silicone lubricant to get the rubber parts into place. I've heard that some types of rubber are degraded by oil or grease (over a long period of exposure). (I should check for anything about this on the internet, because this 'information' came from growing up on the farm a long time ago.)
  14. The bottom one in your photo is a P15 manifold, while the other is from later models, as you said. The major difference, of course, is that the P15 exhaust pipe comes up farther back in the engine compartment. (I also have a 230 from a 55 Plymouth, and before I realized that the manifold is different, I had already bead blasted & cad plated the one that came with the 55 engine that came with my car, but never installed. I'm wondering about your head as well, as the 55 model had an electric temperature sender, and the hole in the head is smaller than the older style, which took the capillary bulb temp sender. I have the late model head installed on my engine, also cad plated, and have not decided what I will do about the temperature gauge.)
  15. I have wondered about that. Already when I was working in that field (late 70's, very early 80's) the cad balls were only available from some place outside of North America, either Australia or New Zealand as I recall, but I don't remember which. So bright plated nuts & bolts that you can still buy - I wonder where they are made. Sure looks like cad to me. Anyway, my idea with doing the exhaust manifold was that it shouldn't ever burn off, but since my car has sat in storage since 82, I've not started the engine yet. Now I'm missing some parts - stuff can walk away in that many years.
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