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Eneto-55

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Eneto-55 last won the day on September 17 2023

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

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  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. Closest I've seen was in the Rockies, in the Westcliffe - Silvercliffe area. But it was back in 75, too, so who knows now. (Not that it was really all that remote, but the altitude must have helped.)
  2. The Indian village was around 500 miles from Manaus, the capitol of Amazonas state. On a clear night we could see the light pollution on the horizon. Porto Velho (Rondonia state capitol, to the south) was much closer (to the village), about a third of that, but I do not recall ever seeing the light from PVH in the night sky. Much smaller city.
  3. I never had any issues with it either, just a bit of oil on the threads; that is, until I moved up here to Ohio, where the Rust Devil also lives. But graphite sounds like something I should try instead of axle grease.
  4. Go some place far from any cities, then look up at the sky on a moonless cloudless night. The stars are so bright, and the whole sky is full of them. Too much light pollution around here.
  5. Bought a 2019 Dodge RAM Classic (4th Gen) last Fall. Up here in the "Salt Belt" wheels are sometimes a bear to get off, even after the lugs are loosened. After getting one off with a bunch of kicking, I had to do the "pop the P15 Drum loose" trick to get the other front one off. (Loosened the lugs, and drove up the street, whipping the wheel back & forth. Finally heard it pop. Then I go to the back. Seems I did the same for one of them, then tried the other. No way would it come loose. Finally snugged the lugs back down and drove to my son-in-law's place, and we used his hydraulic ram to get the other loose. (Or maybe we had to do that for both rear wheels?) Anyway, so I slathered a bit of oil on the mating surfaces, and drove back home. Couple of days later I was going to finish the job, cleaning the rust off of the inner wheel hub circle. Kicked them, Beat on them with a mall for splitting fire wood. No go. Had to put the lugs back on loose, put it back on the ground, and go whip around in the store parking lot up the street. I was ready to give up when I turned sharp enough on a slight hill that it popped loose again. It'll be interesting to see if they will come off easy next time, or not. (This PU has steel wheels - aluminum wheels are even worse for "bonding" to the steel hubs.) I might catch some guff for this, but I don't use a torque wrench. I have one, and used to be able to feel just what so-and-so many foot pounds it like. I'm not a big guy, nor am I a"muscle man", so they have to be so that I can get them off again. (I don't have an impact, and wouldn't have on on the road with me anyway.) I run them down snug, then work my way around and around a few times with a large X wrench, just a bit more on each, till it's to where I can just get them off with nothing but a 1/2" break-over. The only time I've had a wheel come loose was when I had a tire shop swap some tires around for me. And it was still well within the 50 miles they always talk about. But I should put the torque wrench to them once, and see how tight I've been making them.
  6. Some of those FB groups are really trying hard to weed out the scammers, but this place, as a sort of "community", makes a person a whole lot more at ease to make a deal with someone you don't know face to face. But I watch those groups mainly for photos of the cars, mainly detail pictures that might someday help me (or someone else) know how things go back together. Then the interior photos, for original detail in cloth pattern, etc. (I don't really look twice at the heavily customized cars. Not that I exactly despise them or something, but there's no need to know "what it's supposed to look like" if it's going to be a custom.)
  7. One thing I noticed right away is that he (the guy in the video with the fancy system) is using only a single anode. I haven't watched the entire thing yet, so maybe he periodically rotates the carburetor part, but the current connects with the closest area to the anode, so that is where the most metal is deposited. In the cadmium (and other metals for that matter) we plated back in Tulsa (United Plating Works), there were always anodes all along both sides of the tanks. Then we also worked with a smaller anode (connected with a cable) so that we could hold it inside internal areas of the piece being plated. One time I got pretty sick from cyanide gas, because I spent most of a day standing beside the cadmium tank, moving the clamps on some piano hinges that had no holes in them at all, so no place to hang them from. I had to change the position of the clamps about every 45 seconds. And then the other thing, that someone has already mentioned, is that you should never touch the part before starting plating, or at any time during the process. (When I was doing that job with the piano hinges, I had an extra clamp, and would lift one end of the hinge - they were about 5' long, as I recall - at a time, and put the extra clamp onto the part, take off the one near it, then repeat the process at the other end. I think if I were going to set up a plating operation, I would strongly consider doing hot tin. It isn't a bright color, but it is "food quality" plating. Oh, and if you are working with aluminum, you can anodize that w/o any prior plating, just get it chemically clean. We DID glass bead blast all used parts that came in for reconditioning, but everything still went through the correct acid before plating - nothing ever went straight from the blasting cabinet into the plating tank. (I do wish I had made notes about various things back then, but when you are young you do not realize that you will forget so much.)
  8. I'm on P15 and flathead groups on FaceBook, and I have often suggested coming here for information. I wonder, is anyone now regularly on here that heard about the forum on FB? (The biggest draw for me to keep looking there is the photos, particularly of very original cars that were recently pulled out of long-term storage, where they had been sitting long enough that there are few changes that have been made already. Since my 46 was already dismantled when i got it in 1980, and I then dismantled it even more, I copy any photos that show detail, anywhere on the car. Never know when I might need that exact photo. But on the whole, it's a terrible set up to get really useful information. I don't think I've ever asked a question there, just try to help out a bit from time to time. Lots of really "green" new-comers there.) EDIT: What I meant to ask (and was not very clear), is if anyone came here specifically on a recommendation on the FB group. That is, someone who had not yet found THIS forum, and heard about it for the first time on FaceBook. (I'm wondering if it is doing any good to try to send people here for information, and a MUCH better all-around experience.)
  9. Did you do a comparison between 12 & 6 volts? - curious how much slower it runs on the lower voltage.
  10. Sorry - You're around 43 years late for me.
  11. Another possible option might be to get it plated back to just a bit smaller ID than original specs, then have it reamed out. I have no idea how costs would compare to sleeving. There are challenges to electro-plating the inside of a bore, but this case is large enough that it isn't that difficult. However, the things we bore plated were done using cadmium, not industrial chrome. Except I don't really know that they never bore plated in the chrome section of the plating shop where I worked - I was seldom asked to work on anything chrome - just small pot metal pieces - mostly fishing reel handles. How would straight hot nickel hold up? (We plated oil-field flipper valves with that method, and that process might put the material on more evenly than the other type of plating.) Is stainless steel better than industrial chrome? Questions I do not know the answer to.
  12. I would probably use something different if I was doing it now, but undercoating was pretty much all that was available back in 80-81, when I was at that point. (Maybe rock-guard was already being used, but would have been really expensive compared to the stuff I used, and at that time I was just looking at rebuilding it as a daily driver. Also, seems I heard some negative things about that early rock-guard stuff.) Anyway, I did mine both inside and underneath. Did it with the body off of the frame, so it's completely coated. Afterwards I wished I hadn't done it inside because of the smell, but it cured over time, and then I painted it with enamel.
  13. Never trust the internet with something you want to keep.
  14. Yeah, Don Coatney used it quite a bit too, and so all of those are already gone. (Fortunately I had copied lots of his photos that were pertinent to my own car. Maybe I should search for your threads as well, to get copies of pictures I might need in the future, and have missed.)
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