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Eneto-55

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Eneto-55 last won the day on June 2

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  • Gender
    Male
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    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

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  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. I just need someplace to vent about this. My "dream" would be that Microsoft would see it, read it, and accept it as well-intentioned criticism, and FIX THIS. But I have no such delusions. So it is just a complaint, thrust out into the cyber world..... I have used the Microsoft telephone registration process for over 700 systems for just the operating system registrations, and multiple times on some of these, due to either a failing HDD, upgrade from 32-bit Windows to 64-bit, or updates from one OS to a later one., And then many other Microsoft programs as well, such as various Office versions, and Streets & Trips, etc. When I first started this, the telephone process took about 5 to 6 minutes. Over the years they have switched voices (from a man to a woman), added more security protection to prevent bots from messing with them, permission request for recording the call, and additional language choices. Some months ago they added a second recording process, which takes around 11 minutes to complete, and doesn’t allow you to hear the entire response code again at the end, in case you missed one of the early number groups. But that isn’t the only problem. Each time the machine plays the next segment of this woman’s voice, it starts out very quiet, so that you cannot hear clearly what is said. Then the volume comes up after a bit. So for some time I have been just hanging up if it was this younger woman’s voice the machine played, and then call again. Usually that brought up the older recording (a mixture of the original recording of a man’s voice, and an older woman’s voice). Always at least 6 minutes to get it done, but it rarely failed to complete the process for me. Yesterday I was attempting to register a Microsoft program for an off-line business, and although I hung up and called many times, it was always the newer system. Finally I gave up on getting the older, better process, but it took 3 tries before I could get the entire code. One time it got to the part where they read out the response code, but it missed two blocks of numbers. (There are nine blocks of 6 digits each. The codes you have to read off to them is also 9 sets, but newer program versions and Windows 10 now have 7 digits in each of the nine sets. The point is that this can get really tedious.) Why am I writing a review for this here? Because I cannot find a single review on this service anywhere, and of course Microsoft doesn’t want to hear from anyone, much less someone who doesn’t like what they’ve done, even on a small thing like this off-line registration process. I am curious if ANYONE here has ever attempted to register a Microsoft software product using this telephone system. I MUST say, however, that I appreciate the fact that they are still offering this option for registration. Other software companies (like Intuit, for QuickBooks) used to have decent systems like this, but have dropped this option entirely. I suppose it is only a matter of time before Microsoft follows suit, and offers only on-line registration, and probably only subscription-based services as well. Anyone from the old days when the license code came with the installation media, and there was no separate registration required? MS-DOS, anyone?? (Now I’m being ridiculous.)
  2. I went through my water pump when I rebuilt the engine back in 1980 or 81, and have yet to run the engine. The water pump is now froze up. And it was adequately greased, and I have never put water in the engine. I suspect some little critters are the cause (probably "mud dobbers"), but haven't pulled the water pump back off yet to see what's going on there.
  3. Eneto-55

    Heat

    Your drip edge adhesive reminded me of something they use a lot on roofing jobs here in Ohio - Ice Guard. It's a rubber sheet that is stuck down before the shingles are put on. (So that if there is a ice dam that forms on the roof in the winter, the water doesn't seep up under the shingles and through to the plywood sheeting. (Some cover the entire roof, but others just the valleys and around the edge. It might be required by law here now.)
  4. I doubt if I'm so accurate anymore now, but back when I was overhauling my engine I had access to a torque wrench that had probably been recently calibrated, because Dad borrowed it from the mechanics at the dealership where he worked at the parts service desk. I got to where I could use a ratchet or break over bar (depending on the target ft lbs), and be pretty much right on. I think that we all develop a sense of how tight any given bolt should be, depending on its size, and that seems to be a pretty good judge of what the book will actually say. (It assumes that the bolt was sized to its target tightness/load, as any decent engineer would do.)
  5. I saw mention of that deal about aligning the pins on the pads with the piston, but there were no pins on the old ones, and nor are there any on the new ones (from NAPA - indicated for this vehicle). I don't know what to make of that. I've only ever changed the pads on rear disks w/ the emergency/parking brake on the disks for one other vehicle, our 2009 Dodge Journey. That was some years ago now, but I'm nearly certain there were no pins on those pads, either.
  6. Had a frozen piston in the left rear caliper on my work car, a 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan, so needed to replace it. I read on another forum where someone gave a hint about how to get some slack in the emergency cable, so that it can be removed at the rear caliper. They suggested pulling the main cable back as much as possible, then carefully clamping it with a vice grips. That gave me an idea that would avoid the use of the vice grips. Used a tie-down strap and hooked one end over the bracket that transitions from the single front cable to the two separate cables toward the rear. then hooked the other end to the back, on the coil spring. That gave quite a bit of slack at the rear caliper, to unhook the cable.Someone on a youtube video had also suggested using an old ?? mm box end wrench and cutting a slot through it (like a line wrench, but I suppose they hadn't heard of that) to slide over the cable, so as to release the prongs that hold the cable housing bracket in place. There are three prongs. I used an open-end 1/2" wrench to depress two of the prongs, and had a small vice grips clamped on the cable housing, so that I could turn it to line up the third prong with the slot in the bracket. (The slot is there so that you can slide the cable out of the bracket, once the cable housing end with the prongs is slid back out of the bracket.) The vice grips gave me something to get a good hold of the cable housing, so as to pull it forward and out of the bracket. Worked well for me.ONE QUESTION: The banjo bolt (at the brake line attachment point on the caliper) on the caliper I bought has an 11 mm head. I DID use the new copper washers provided, and as it continued to leak there a bit, tightened it as much as is possible with a standard short handle 11 mm wrench, but there is still a very slight fluid leak there. I will watch it to see that it doesn't continue to leak, but it is possible that it will stop?(I have never before replaced a brake connection that used this type of connection there - all my experience is with much older vehicles that use a threaded fitting. Also, most of my experience has been with vehicles that weren't here in the Ohio "Salt Belt" - I grew up in Oklahoma, where we never had to contend with the rust problems encountered here in Ohio and in places like Minnesota, where I went to college.) I posted this on the Chrysler minivan forum as well, and one person said that I may have over-tightened the banjo bolt, damaging one of both of the copper washers. But I only tightened it gradually, from 'snug' on up, as it continued to leak very slightly. It is now just leaking enough that it was wet there after setting over night. (I did the job yesterday afternoon.)
  7. My Dad worked at various auto dealerships (CPDD, then Pontiac, Rambler, and finally Oldsmobile) for most of his adult life. He became so accustomed to working with keys that he could just look at a key and "read" the code. So he could actually just see someone holding their keys and could have gone over to the key machine and made a key. This was, of course, in the era before double-sided keys.) (I have also made keys in the way you described, by carefully working up to the correct depth for each tumbler. But I don't think I can see well enough anymore now.)
  8. A specific woodgrain pattern and color was used originally on all closed cars. It is my understanding that convertibles had body color, but I've never seen an original convert "in person", so I don't know for sure. But it is, of course, your choice.
  9. If I recall correctly, Balfour Green is a light color.
  10. Here is the text copy from my Plymouth manual, dealing with Radio & Heater, pages 215 - 221 SECTION XIX ACCESSORIES 1. RADIO Model 604 and 806-807 radios are especially designed for Model P-19 and P-20 Plymouth cars, and Model 603 and 803 radios are especially designed for the P-17 and P-18 Plymouth cars. The Model 603 radio (Fig. 1) and Model 604 radio (Fig. 2) are equipped with five tubes, a rectifier and mechanical push-button tuning, while Model 803 and Model 806-807 radios (Fig. 3) have seven tubes, a rectifier and electric push­button tuning. On the eight-tube sets only, the off-and-on switch is combined with push-button operation. INSTALLATION OF RADIO AND ANTENNA Detailed instructions for installation are furnished with each radio and antenna package. Included in the radio instruction folder are directions for the push-button adjustments and generator noise suppression. Distributor Suppressor - On all P-17 Models and P-18 DeLuxe 4-Door Sedan and Club Coupe Models, and also some early production P-19 Models, a distributor suppressor must be used. Antenna Maintenance - For best radio reception, be sure to keep the antenna rod clean. <text box> NOTE A special radio grille package is required for all P-17 and P-19 Plymouth Model cars and the P-18 and P-20 Deluxe 4-Door Sedan and Club Coupe. These radio grilles replace the blank instrument panel plates in the instrument panels of these cars. The Special Deluxe P-18 and P-20 Models are equipped with radio grilles. <end text box> RADIO ADJUSTMENTS MODELS 603 AND 604 (a) Antenna Compensator Adjustment - Turn the radio ON and with dial set at approximately 14 (1400 kilocycles), the volume at full and the antenna fully extended, adjust the antenna trimmer on the bottom of the set for the maximum volume of a weak station, or background noise between the stations. (b) Setting Push-Buttons - Push buttons should be set up in the daytime, since weak station are stronger at night, and there is a possibility of setting a push-button on a distant station carrying the same program as the desired station. Turn radio ON and allow it to warm up for at least 15 minutes. Antenna should be fully extended and the tone control should be in high position. Pull off the chrome-plated push-button caps from buttons Nos. l, 2, 3, and 4, exposing the knurled metal buttons. Unlock the four push­button settings by turning each knurled button counter-clockwise about one turn. Never turn buttons more than two turns in a counter-clockwise direction. With the tuning knob, tune in the station to be set on the No. 1 button. Select only the best and most powerful local stations. While holding tuning knob, push in the No. 1 button as far as it will go and tighten the knurled button securely. Follow the previous instructions when setting the other buttons. When all buttons have been set, check to see if the stations can be tuned more accurately with the tuning knob. If so, unlock buttons and reset. A push-button may be set at any time by unlocking the push-buttons, tuning in a new station and resetting. Replace push-button caps when job is completed. MODELS 803 AND 806-807 (a) Adjustment of Manual Tuning Antenna Compensator - Push in the Dial button and tune in a weak station near 1400 kilocycles with the manual control (right hand knob). Using a small screw driver, adjust Manual Tuning Antenna Compensator for maximum volume. (b) Push-Button Adjustment - First, select the best stations for electric tuning buttons. Pull off the electric tuning button covers. Push in Dial button and tune in station selected for No. 1 button, making sure it is within the range - 840 to 1600 kilocycles. <text box> IMPORTANT Before attempting adjustments, make sure radio has been operating for 20 minutes. Make certain antenna is fully extended. The stations may be set up accurately with the volume control set at maximum and the tone control set for Voice. For best results in metropolitan areas, it is recommended that the push-buttons be set up in a shielded place where signals are weak, such as under a viaduct, or in a steel-constructed building. <end text box> Push in the No. 5 button. Pull out the knurled end of the button and turn it to either right or left to tune in the station already tuned in with the manual control. Turning the button counter­clockwise will increase the frequency and turning button clockwise will decrease the frequency. Check station by pushing in Dial button again to identify the program. Do not attempt to force the button beyond its normal stopping point. (c) Adjusting Push-Button Antenna Compensator - Adjust this compensator for maximum volume with button No. 5 pushed in. To set up buttons Nos. 1, 2, 3. and 4, proceed in like manner. <text box> NOTE The stations may be set up before installing radio in car, but FINAL adjustment must be made with antenna installed and after radio has been operating for 20 minutes in car. <end text box> Adjust Antenna Compensator on No. 5 push­button only. Replace push-button covers with detented side toward retaining spring on the plastic core. REMOVAL OF RADIO CHASSIS To remove radio chassis, disconnect antenna lead-in at radio (On Models 603 and 604, antenna lead-in receptacle is at the back of the set, and on Models 803 and 806-807, antenna lead-in receptacle is located at the right side of the set.) Disconnect the battery lead wire at the fuse holder. Separate the pilot light lead at the bayonet type connection on Models 803 and 806-807. Then, remove four grille mounting screws in face of grille and two grille mounting bolts at bottom of grille. Remove nut and bolt from mounting bracket on cowl vent brace at rear of set. Pull chassis out of front of instrument panel. 2. HEATERS Three types of MOPAR All-Weather Comfort System Heaters, (Models 100, 300, and 550), are available for the Models P-17, P-18, P-19, and P-20 Plymouth cars. See Figures 4, 5 and 6. The heater radiator core and blower motor are concealed under the hood with the air outlets and controls inside the front compartment. The Model 550 heater has a separate defroster blower motor mounted inside the front compartment. The amount of heated or unheated air admitted to the car can be completely controlled. Knockout sections have been provided to eliminate the need for drilling or cutting sheet metal when installing MOPAR heaters. Defroster outlets are built into the windshield garnish moulding at the bases of the windshields to facilitate heater installation. Model 100 - An input of fresh air through the fresh air intake is necessary for the operation of this system. When the Air-Off button on the control panel is pushed in, fresh air enters the system. When the Air-Off control button is pulled out, the air intake is closed. Fresh air is forced through the system by a motor-driven air fan operated by the push-pull Air Fan switch control button. In the heating unit is a radiator core through which hot water flows from the engine. A valve, operated by the push-pull Temp Control button, controls the amount of hot water flowing through this radiator core. When the Temp Control button is pulled all the way out, the maximum of hot water flows through the radiator core, and the maximum amount of heat is available for distribution in the car. When the Temp Control button is pushed all the way in, no hot water flows through the core, and no heat is available for distribution in car. As fresh air passes through the radiator core in the heating unit, it is heated if the Temp Control button is pulled out. If the Temp Control button is pushed in, the fresh air is not heated. The heated or unheated fresh air then passes to the distribution outlet inside the car, from which point it is circulated throughout the car. A damper in the distribution outlet diverts heated or unheated air through the defroster outlets onto the windshield. The damper is operated by a push-pull defrost control button. Model 300 - The flow of hot water from the engine through the heater core in this system is controlled by a Water Shut-Off Valve located on the rear of the cylinder head. The valve should be fully opened in winter or whenever heat is required, and closed in summer. Outside fresh air enters the system through the fresh air intake. Fresh air is forced through the system by means of a motor driven air fan that is controlled by the push-pull Air Fan Control button. The two dampers in the heating unit are operated by the Fresh Air Temperature Control lever. These dampers direct the passage of the fresh air through the heating unit. When the lever is in the Off position, the air inlet is closed. As the lever is moved from the Off position to the On Cool position, fresh air passes through the heating unit without being heated. The amount of unheated fresh air entering the car in this manner can be regulated by adjusting the lever to any desired position between the Off and On Cool positions. When the lever is moved from the On Cool position to the Warm position, heated fresh air comes from the heating unit. The temperature of this heated air can be regulated by adjusting the lever to any desired position between the On Cool and Warm positions. The heated or unheated fresh air then passes to the distribution outlet inside the car, from which point it is circulated throughout the car. A damper in the distribution outlet diverts heated or unheated fresh air through the defroster outlets onto the windshield for defrosting or defogging purposes. This damper is operated by the push-pull Defrost Control Button. Model 550 - Outside fresh air enters the system through the fresh air intake. Air is then forced through the system by means of a motor­driven fan controlled by the Air Fan knob. An automatic valve controls the amount of hot water passing through the heater radiator core. This valve is operated by a thermostat, which may be set for any desired temperature by means of the Temperature Control lever. This provides a controlled temperature within the car, depending upon the setting of the lever. The two dampers in the heating unit operated by the Fresh Air lever, control the passage of fresh air through the system. In the Off position, no air can enter the system. In the Summer position, fresh air passes through the unit without being heated. In the Winter position, the fresh air passes through the heater core so that heated air emerges from the heating unit. The heated or unheated fresh air then passes to the Distribution Duct inside the car, from which point it is circulated throughout the car. The defroster motor and blower fan forces heated or unheated air through the defroster outlets onto the windshield. The defroster fan is controlled by the Defroster Fan knob. INSTALLATION OF HEATERS Detailed instructions for installation of heater and adjustment of controls are furnished with each heater package. HEATER BLOWER MOTOR Replacement - Remove the radiator upper dust shield by removing six screws. Disconnect wires to heater motor. Remove the heater motor mounting bracket and clamp. Remove the three screws on blower housing and remove heater motor. See Figure 7. DEFROSTER BLOWER MOTOR (MODEL 550 ONLY) Replacement - Disconnect wires to defroster blower motor. Disconnect defroster hose. Remove three defroster blower mounting stud nuts and remove the defroster blower motor. See Figure 8. HEATER CORE Replacement - Drain cooling system. Disconnect heater to dash transfer duct at the fire wall. Disconnect two heater hose connections and the remote control bowden wire. Disconnect hold-­down straps at front and rear of heater box and remove heater box. Disassemble heater box and remove heater core. After installing heater core, duct, and above connections, fill cooling system and make sure all hose connections are tight. Examine for leaks. Then, check heater and defroster controls for proper operation. HEATER DAMPERS AND AIR CABLE (MODEL 300 and 550) Adjustments - IMPORTANT: Place air control lever on control panel in WINTER position. Back off heater damper adjusting rod as far as possible. Set the outer damper lever on the heater unit in WINTER position. Be sure both ends of control cable are securely clamped. Place control wire in damper lever swivel clamp, and with pliers holding the end of the wire, pull all slack out of wire. Then, while pressing the damper lever firmly in WINTER position, lock the wire in swivel clamp. This closes damper on outside of heater. Tighten adjusting rod to a point where it has slight tension. Then, secure it in position with lock nut. This opens the damper on the engine side of heater and holds it against a stop.
  11. Back in HS I had a friend who didn't want to pay the $29.99 for a cheap quicky paint job (I think I remember correctly the price - it was around 1973.) So he opted for spray cans. 7 years or so later a guy I worked with at the plating shop painted his car with Rusoleum, and a roller. The latter car looked better than the spray deal. There used to be skilled painters who could do a really nice job with a paint brush. Use real slow thinner and a high quality brush that is not going to shed bristles. I would think that it would be the same idea with a roller - use a good one (and short nap like already mentioned), and a slow thinner that will let the paint settle out smooth after you stop rolling on it. Or just get a spray gun and practice first, like Marc did.
  12. I have flushed out an engine with used ATF - It had sat & settled for a long time, then I also either filtered it or just poured off of the top. I had first drained the oil, and the filter, then put the old filter back on (I think - it was many years back, like around 15 years ago). I idled the engine for 3 minutes - timed. I also had my hand right by the ignition key the whole time, in case I heard anything at all that was slightly abnormal. Then I drained the ATF, which was now very black, changed the filter, and put in fresh oil. Before that the oil quickly turned black after an oil change, but it stayed clean looking for a long time after that. Since then I've heard of using diesel, and actually revving the engine or driving it, but I wouldn't dare do that myself. (That was one of the vehicles that I should have left on the used car lot. But I needed a PU, and didn't have the cash for a better one. I say that, but I got a lot of years out of that Chevy S-10.)
  13. I listened to a bit of one of the 47 film strips. Slow moving. I guess we are impatient now-a-days.... I used to have a 62 Chrysler Newport, and I've thought of trying to adapt a turn signal system from that model to my 46 Plymouth. So I downloaded the manual for that model, but the illustrations are not clear at all. I know it takes a lot of time to do a good scan job - getting each page lined up so that each page isn't cocked to one side or the other. Then there is the deal that the photos were half-tones, to prevent the darker parts from coming out all just plain black. I have an old HP scanner I bought years ago, and it has a descreening process. But the thing is, I have to set that for each separate scan. It does get tedious. But the result is really nice. I can zoom in and out on a photo ('Figure', or 'Illustration') w/o it breaking up into a sort of grid, like when you look through two screens. (My eyesight is not great at all, and it's nice to be able to zoom in, to see more detail.) Anyway, the 62 turn signal control switch was on the dash, to the left of the steering wheel. The signal cancelling system involved an electro-magnet (at the switch, if I recall correctly) and a trigger device with a switch mounted on the steering column well down under the dash. I was thinking that using that would allow the turn signal switch to auto-cancel, and there wouldn't need to be a large device mounted up on the column behind the steering wheel. (As you can probably tell, I get carried away with about everything.) I have scanned the whole Plymouth manual I have with OCR (Optical Character Recognition), then proof read the whole deal, correcting scanning mistakes, spelling errors in the original printing, etc. Now I'm scanning the Figures separately, because I will print them in a separate book. This manual, at least, often has the illustration on a different page from the text referring to it. So paging back & forth with dirty fingers.... My job now is with computers, so I tend to think in that direction. I will have the text on one screen, and the illustrations open on another page - as two separate files. Yeah, it's taking lots of time, more than I expected when I started this. But then I didn't plan for doing this when I started, either. The idea sort of developed, as I saw how the book is laid out. (Not to be critical - I've done book design and layout myself, and it's not easy to arrange everything just as you want it, so as to not have large areas of white space just because you want an illustration or picture to be near the text that references it.)
  14. Yes. Not sure why I was blocked like that on Sunday afternoon, and early this morning, but it started working a bit later. So I loaded all of the 1948 booklets, and just need to go through the process of downloading (now that I'm home from work).
  15. I had logged onto the MyMopar site and tired to look around for other resources, but it blocks me, saying "You do not have authorization to view this page." (I was able to follow your link to that exact download, and get it, but I can't look around at anything else.) Edit 01: Well, I had tried this the other day, and again earlier this morning, but now I tried again, and it let me through. Not sure what was different. Edit 02: The thing about copying information out of the filmstrips is that one can cut out all of the extra "fluff" that is injected into the film strip (and judging from this example, also included in the PDF text version). I like to have an organized list to read through quickly, w/o getting lost in the extra "conversation". Just the way I'm designed, I guess.
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