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Eneto-55

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Eneto-55 last won the day on June 2

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  • Gender
    Male
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    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

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  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. That's what my son-in-law suggested, until we saw how much would have to be removed. (We put washers on two of the lugs, and kept adding more until the wheel spokes cleared the caliper support. The two washers (together) made up about 7/32", and we figured that a 20 mm spacer would make it clear, although it would still be pretty close. (I didn't use a micrometer to measure the washers, so I could be a bit off.) Today I found some wheels on Summit Racing (CRR-83-7714) that might fit, with 1" spacers. It's the type that has two sets or patterns of lug bolt holes, one for 4.5" and the other for 4.25". (Our CR-V uses the 4.5" pattern.) This wheel's back space is 5.5" instead of 4.5", so if I understand how all of that works, then the 1" spacers would put it right back on the money, and the ends of the stock lugs bolts holding the spacer to the hub could stick through the extra holes in the wheel. (This type of spacer has an additional set of lug bolts, which are used to fasten the wheel to the spacer. I have also seen people saying not to use this kind, that one should get loner lug bolts, so that they run all the way through from the hub to the wheel. But this is only for winter tires - I need to be able to remove the spacers when I put the summer tires back on in the Spring.) But also wondering if all those holes weakens the structure of the wheel.
  2. Thanks. Do the lug nuts extend beyond the 1.5" spacers at all? Are there recesses between the lug holes in your wheels, and if so, do the hub to spacer lugs correspond with the recesses in the back of the wheel? (One or the other of these Honda wheels has recesses between the lug holes and the other doesn't. I'm thinking that the 17s are the ones with the recessed areas, rather than the stock 18s. But I wasn't thinking of this question when we had them off. I would need to run up to my rented shop to look at the 17s.) The 5mm spacers aren't thick enough to leave room for a hub-centric flange. So I don't think I want to use them. And I suppose that a person should not dare to grind away any part of the inside of the wheel. If it was only up to a couple of millimeters (1/8"), I might do it. But it would also affect the wheel balance, unless it was done very carefully, to consistently remove the same amount of material all around the wheel. That would pretty much require a metal lathe operation to feel confident about something of that nature.
  3. I've seen those on-line, and wondered how that works. Is the 1.5" enough that the lug nuts holding the spacer to the hub do not interfere with mounting the wheel, or do you have to replace the studs in the hub? I don't want to do the latter, because in my situation this "solution" is only for the winter wheels/tires. The idea then would be to get some steel wheels that have a full 1" extra backspace (5.5 instead of 4.5), then use 1" spacers. The advantage would be that the 1" spacers would be thick enough to have a hub-centric flange extending into the wheel hole. (I'm still not convinced that the hub itself is not weight-bearing in relation to the wheel. There's a lot of back & forth in that discussion, but a lot of the younger crowd seem to be totally unaware of how our old cars were designed, with a very substantial hub structure that not only centers the wheel, but also, I would argue, supports it.)
  4. Another question: What do you all think of running spacers on the front wheels? (There is a bit of caliper interference, a bit less than 1/4". The thinnest spacers are 5mm. But this would push the wheel out far enough that the wheel would no longer engage the flange on the hub. (So in my thinking, that would make it "lug bearing", not "hub bearing". Not crazy about doing this.)
  5. When I get an email that seems suspect, I just open as "print preview", then analyze it from that view. (I use Thunderbird, and have it set up as a POP3 account. I don't know what options there are if you access email directly on-line.)
  6. Another question, only sort of related, but hate to start a new thread.... Did I say that I ended up getting some used Honda alloys? Anyway, I got them this morning, and they say on them "for TPMS". Will regular valve stems work on wheels like that? I don't care about the pressure monitor system - I'd rather be responsible for my tire pressures myself anyway. I don't care if they are there, but not so crazy about the extra expense, just for winter tires.
  7. I suspect that there was a fair bit less consciousness (conscientiousness?) about the importance of sealing the cabin from fumes and the like back in those years. I didn't find it all those years back when I was rebuilding the floor of my P15, but I more recently found an opening that goes from under the left side of the car in the area where the floor boards sweep up, near the dimmer switch. It opens up into the cavity below the radio antenna base. It is all closed up on the right side. I suspect that one panel was missing a corner, and they figured it didn't matter. I can hardly get my hand up in there to feel it, so I don't know how I could fix it, either. But as to the pedal "seals", it seems to me that an expandable boot type affair would be better that this grommet deal. So that's something I'm going to be thinking about. Maybe something like the boot that the wire harness passes through from the body of a minivan over to the rear hatch. (There's also the larger boots that go between the front doors and the cowl area on cars with electric in the doors.) Maybe it would take two attached together, one smaller diameter than the other, to get enough length.
  8. OK. My memory may be faulty on the weight comparison. If I get an opportunity, I'll do that again, but not in this cold we're having right now. But while I was holding off on purchasing the set of used steel wheels, to get a better feel for what was the correct course, they sold last night or this morning. (They had been listed for around a month, so I thought waiting a day wouldn't matter.) So anyway, the same guy has a set of alloy wheels; twice the money, but still a good deal. He's holding them for us, and my son-in-law will be picking them up for me on Monday. So the weight difference question is not important at the moment - just my curiosity at this point. Thanks to all who contributed to my understanding on all of this.
  9. I do get the deal about handling. But I'm a very sedate driver, and don't do any race car tactics, especially not in the snow. I would have also thought that the aluminum wheels would be significantly lighter, so when I bought an aluminum open box trailer (4 x 8), I got the aluminum wheel option. Later I took one off and weighed it, as compared to a steel wheel with the same size tire on it. There was very little difference at all. Regarding the gearing, I had wondered if there was a significant weight gain in the transmission, by basically lower gearing. (Not being an engineer, I don't even know if that makes any sense.) The only advantages I can think of for large wheels are 1.) possible weight reduction in the transmission, and 2.) the larger the wheel the less it will drop into deep pot holes. I could understand the logic in the latter, if our roads were still like they were in the 20's and 30's, but not really today. And as to the first, any gains in transmission weight would have to be enough to overcome the additional weight of the larger wheels & tires. (And, in an on-line search, I found no ADVANTAGES for greater unsprung weight. The much wider tires must already be much heavier than the tires that came on our P15s, for instance. Or is that just because I'm older now, and everything feels heavier than it used to?) So what I'm left with (as a reason for the large wheels on modern vehicles) is greater revenue for the tire manufacturers, and 'looks'. (Neither of which concern me.)
  10. From what I understand, these Blizzak tires do have a softer rubber used on the first 55% (as I recall) of the tread, then they perform as regular mud & snow tires. There's lots of room around the rotors, and the 17" wheels are used on the base model. I've looked through the "features charts" for what is added for each model, and larger-size brakes are not mentioned anywhere. [What I don't understand is what is driving this trend toward larger and larger wheels. Is it just looks? Not that I personally think it looks any better. Maybe just an excuse for higher prices? But what about the added unsprung weight, and additional wear & tear on the suspension?]
  11. Now I see that the 'XL' is the Load Range Rating..... BUT, any feed back on the question of downsizing the wheel from 18 to 17?
  12. Looking at some snow tires for our family car (AKA “my wife’s car”). Before now, I was unacquainted with the “Speed Rating” part of the tire code. But I am still not sure I understand it, at least in the case of the tires I’m looking at. Here’s the specific tire: Bridgstone Blizzak DM-V2 P235/65R17S XL. Which is the speed rating, the ‘S’, or the ‘L’? Why this tire? The car (2019 Honda CR-V EX-L) comes with P235/60R18 tires. I want to drop down to 17” steel rims for the winter tires. Why the smaller size? Somewhat lower cost, more tire height, used 17” steel rims available. Why steel Rims? Avoid the reaction between the normal aluminum wheels and the steel it’s mounted to. The much lower cost. Personal preference – I don’t like the looks of aluminum wheels. (I’m weird that way.) Re: matching the tire sizes: The tire size comparison: P235/60R18 – 91.4” circumference; 693 revolutions/mile P235/65R17 – 91.1 circumference; 695 revolutions/mile So this specific tire comes up in the tire size matching charts, by both circumference and by Revolutions per mile. BUT, it is not available in the ‘T’ speed rating for passenger cars – this particular tire is designated for ‘light trucks’ (by which I assume they mean ‘Pick ups’, which in my upbringing and dialect are not considered ‘trucks’ – That would mean a 1 ton or more.) Notice in the speed rating chart that the ‘L’ designation has a top sustained speed of 75 MPH. We don’t drive that fast in the snow around here, and have the street tires for Summer time. But if the ‘XL’ is not the speed rating for this tire, then it is an ‘S’ rated tire, and there’re no more questions in my mind. OR, Would you all suggest just sticking with the 18” tires for both Summer & Winter? (I can purchase 4 new 18” steel rims for about 4 times the cost of the 4 used 17’s – $300.00 compared to $75.00.)
  13. For me, as one who has to have my trifocals on in order to see anything at all, that is my biggest issue. I just cannot turn my head in the correct angle so that i can see anything under the dash. (My father-in-law, who was a general contractor, had a pair of glasses with the bifocals at the top of the lens, so that he could see above him while soldering copper tubing in the floor, from in the basement.)
  14. I have saved the heater cores out of the 93 Chrysler T & C (front and in the left rear side panel area) that I scrapped, but I imagine that the tubes would not line up. I had actually thought of installing an extra in the rear someplace, for more even heat. But I also reckon that it would be cheaper to have one of these modified than to have the core replaced on an old one. [Project for a trip to the salvage - Try to find something that could easily be made to fit.. But my car had some other heater installed at some time, because I had to repair some holes in the firewall that weren't where there were punch-outs.. So maybe not a real big deal to use something else. My 46 had spent its whole life in Oklahoma, and I suspect that heaters weren't high on the options list in that part of the country back then. Would PEX work to route the hoses to the right places?, or I guess this is hotter than a hot water heater.]
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