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Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. Headlight wires (in the main wiring harness) terminate at the terminal block mounted on the front side of the left front radiator side panel. I don't know how they go on from there - my fenders were off already when I got the car.) Rear wiring - after they pass over the left side above the doors (as you said), they go down behind the left rear vent window and go through into the trunk area to the left (to the right as you are facing toward the back of the car) of the package shelf. (The courtesy light wire splits away about even with the top of the rear window, and crosses over to the light fixture.) The left side tail light wires continue along that side, just under the trunk opening lip. The other wires (to the brake light and the right tail light are attached with clips spot welded to the bottom side of the package shelf, crossing over to the right side. (There is a clip behind this row of clips where the brake light wire heads back toward the deck lid opening.) (I'll try to get photos sometime this week, if necessary.)
  2. Do you happen to know any more particulars on the description, like laminated, I assume, but probably not tempered?
  3. I hate to sound stupid, but what does NAG stand for?
  4. I'm in my mid sixties now, but in my younger years I was hassled by police so many times that I would never have the nerve to run an open chassis up & down a public street. I'd have to find a private road to do that on.
  5. I should have looked up the definition for the term "grunt work" before I used it. Here's what I found: (idiomatic) Work (especially that which is heavy, repetitive or mindless) that is considered undesirable and therefore delegated to underlings I was only thinking of the idea of 'heavy work'. I don't consider mechanic work to be 'undesirable', or 'boring', but I wouldn't exactly be tickled to need to do over what I already did before. (I already will need to redo the electrical wiring - I had repaired frayed wires back in 80 or 81, using wire we stripped out of a car my brother scrapped. But now it is all brittle, so will be doing a complete job on that, which was unexpected & unplanned.) Yes, I'm 64, will be 65 later this year. I just got my car moved across the country now almost 2 years ago, and I have it stored inside, but still have no shop area to work on it more than very basic things, and don't have the tools needed to proceed. (As I said before, when I started on it back in 1980, I had the benefit of not only my Dad's tools, expertise, and help, but the comaraderie of my younger brother, who was working on his 49 DeSoto in the space beside my 46. None of my close friends here are into this sort of thing, so I'm on my own. My wife & I lived overseas as missionaries for many years, so the car sat in storage all of these years, and you also don't get rich doing volunteer ministry work. So what ever I do, it has to be very low budget. Not trying to create sympathy, just explaining where I'm at. I'm going to let this go now. I had no intention of offending anyone, and still don't understand what I said that was offensive.)
  6. I don't know what I said that sounded like a know-it-all, but I apologize for any thing I said, or the tone of what I said, that was offensive. I do not consider myself to "know it all", or I wouldn't be asking questions here - I'd just be "dispensing my great knowledge" (which I do not claim, either publicly, or privately). So no, I do not feel superior. By "grunt work" I meant pulling the engine again, tearing it down, etc. My Dad had tools back then that I do not have, nor can I afford to purchase them, at least not now. I also had my younger brother around about all of the time, too. Maybe I need to look up the definition of "grunt work". (I also cannot afford to hire this work out. If it comes to that, I'll be forced to sell the car. It's a hobby I couldn't let go of easily, but I won't let it become a "money hole", either.) All the best to you, and I appreciate everyone's input, even when it isn't quite what I wanted to hear.
  7. My MoPar manual says "Always re-tighten the cylinder head after the engine has been allowed to warm up." BUT, it doesn't say whether this should be done WHILE it is warm, or just sometime AFTER it has been warm.
  8. Maybe I should have asked "Who proof-read these?" I didn't say it that way, but I was also wondering about the manuals being produced now - Are there experienced mechanics, engineers, etc., in on the proof-reading process, or do they just put a bunch of office staff on a work-group to write up this stuff. The question behind the question is whether the persons doing the compilation are familiar with the topics they are writing about, or are they just referring to other materials they have at their disposal? But yes, possibly no longer living. My father-in-law is going to be 99 in August, so to him, a person who was 25 in 1950 would still be younger than him. But I imagine that they pasted in stuff from previous issues as much as possible, so once an error found its way into a manual, it would be republished various times. But I also doubt if they had the engineers writing or proof-reading repair manuals. My point was just that now, all these years later, we look to these manuals as "proof" of the true answer to our questions, and now that I find errors, I wonder what else is incorrect. (By the way, I'm pretty certain that my copy of this manual is an original. I don't have any other original MoPar manuals, just some Motor Manuals from this same era. All of the rest of the MoPar manuals I have are either from downloads from this site, or from some other private & on-line sources.)
  9. I have never installed plugs yet - it has the "over-haul" pressed paper "plugs" in the spark plug holes, just to keep dirt & such (like mud-dobbers) out of there. The engine can be turned over no problem, and the oil is as new looking as the day I put it in. It has always been stored inside since the over-haul, and when we were back in the States on missionary home assignments every 3 years or so, I would slide under it & turn it over a few times, working with a large screw driver on the flywheel.
  10. Thanks for the input. I figured all along that's what I *should* do, but was hoping it would not be necessary. I don't know what "up in age" means, but we rebuilt the engine back in 1980, and I was around 25 at the time, so maybe that makes me "up in age"..... Retirement is still a ways off for me, and as a self-employed person running a one-man business, it'll be a while before I am able to deal with this issue. I guess we'll see first if I am ever able to get to it at all before I would have to hire someone to do all of the grunt work.
  11. New meaning for the MoPar Manual Blues .... Who writes these?! Discovering mistakes. Here's a couple I've found so far. (Not counting spelling errors.) 1.) Like it says that on late P-15 Plymouth cars, the Vehicle Number (Serial Number) plate is located on the right front pillar, and on the left front pillar for the early P-15 models. [Not exactly a mistake, but actually, I've only ever seen one P-15 that had it on the right front pillar, and that was a 47, while my 46 has it on the left front pillar. I cannot remember now what factory that one came from, but always wondered if one factory put it in a different place, if they had some model 42 A pillars to use up, or if some guys just couldn't remember where it went. (I've never thought to take measurements of the exact location, to see if the holes were likely pre-punched, but I would expect they were.)] 2.) It gives the tire size for the P-15 as 6.70 x 15. [I know that the LATE P-15's took 15" wheels & tires, but the 46 (& I think all of the 47's) took the 6.00 x 16.]
  12. I would think that when the engine is first started (cold), you should not be able to detect any circulation (or gradual warming) of the water in the radiator until the engine reaches operating temperature, and the thermostat opens. (I'm not saying this from personal testing - this just seems logical to me.) Regarding testing the thermostat, my dad always tested it in a pot of water, using a cooking thermometer to verify that it was opening at the proper temp.
  13. I spent 3 1/2 years west of the Twin Cities (St. Bonifacius) back in the mid to late 70's. I was a sort of Christian Hippie, and our whole generation had this dream of making peace between different peoples. It's kinda' sad now, thinking how little difference we apparently made. It was a bit far to go into the cities, but occasionally some of us students would visit at a couple of 'Jesus People' churches there. Both were very mixed racially, so this comes as an additional shock. Me about 1979 - - Edit: found the photo. It was from August of 1978.
  14. The jack stand above says that it meets the ASME PALD 2009 standards. There are various ones on the market that DO NOT have the safety pin, and on those where I've seen the "first available" date, it is BEFORE 2009. I've tried to find a full text version of those standards, but apparently you have to pay (through the schnozzle) for access to it. (Where are the consumer's rights?....) Edit to add: Now I see that there was another revision of these standards in 2014.
  15. Saw this in the Northern Tools catalog. (Are they about the same as Harbor Freight? Same stuff?) Noticed that it said in the printed catalog that it has a safety pin, so looked it up on-line to get a closer look. From the small picture in the printed catalog, I thought it looked like the pin goes through the cast part, but it engages the teeth, same as the quick-release lever does. (Regarding adding a safety pin going through the cast extension: I checked mine, and there isn't any way to be able to put a pin in through below the cast extension part. I guess I would think that a tooth would break off before the whole piece would split in two, and even if it did, it would wedge itself in the opening, preventing a fast descent or total collapse. Note: I do not have any from Harbor Freight; just others of a similar design, but also pretty old.)
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