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Eneto-55

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About Eneto-55

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    P-15, RatRods, Mini Cycle Cars
  • My Project Cars
    1946 Plymouth

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  • Biography
    Born 1955
  • Occupation
    self-employed

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    1946 Special Deluxe

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  1. Hire someone to do it, and they likely wouldn't have been done so well as that. (About 12 years ago I worked on a power coating line, and we got semi wheels sand blasted for about 10 bucks a piece, as I recall. But they were not terribly careful to get all of the paint off. Sometimes you would see sort of "shadows" of rust or paint, where they should have come around & hit it more from a different angle.)
  2. Missing mine as well - and never realized I was missing something there for years. (Rebuilt the engine & clutch back in 1980 or 81 - before the internet, and this great site.) I was figuring to make something some time, so it would be helpful if you could post a picture of what these screens look like uninstalled - what holds them in place, etc. I also pulled the engine out of my parts car, and while the bell housing was later stolen out of the trunk of the parts car (sitting outside behind my folks' house), I don't recall that there were screens on it, either. (My Dad came home once & caught some guys getting ready to put the whole car on their trailer. Stopped them, but at some point they or someone else took what ever they could carry off. Sadly, probably just for scrap iron.)
  3. This appeared in my FaceBook feed, and just curious if anyone knows if this is true. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=3062731637080088&set=gm.3091880257508572&type=3&theater If you cannot access this for some reason, here is the photo that was posted there: (The part I'm wondering about is if there really was no SN plate attached anywhere on the vehicle, especially since the frame # on the cars matches the engine number, not the SN on the plate riveted to the A pillar.)
  4. The temp gauge & the capillary tube are a one piece assembly (soldered). If you separate the two, the gas or what ever is in there will escape, and it's a very involved process to get it right again. (I've never done this - just replying based on what I've read here in the past. I think I remember reading that it is some poisonous gas.) Edit: I see that Sniper already answered you on this.
  5. About the closest match to the original mohair I've seen so far is wool suiting, but it's really too thin to use as upholstery. I've wondered, though, if a person could double it up with a stronger fabric under it. But thinking back, all of the cars I remember from my childhood had seat covers, to protect the mohair. After the seat covers wore out in the family DeSoto (53), my mom made new covers out of naugahide. Well, vinyl actually. Coldest stuff I ever sat on in the winter, and stuck to you in the summer. (We lived in North East Oklahoma, hot & humid.) I don't think leather is as bad as that stuff in either season, but I'm thinking now that when I get that far, I'll look for something to kinda' match the common plaid seat covers of that time period.
  6. In looking for wire sources some months ago (still haven't ordered any - haven't figured out exactly how much of each size & color I will need yet) I saw reviews on some of the cheaper wire sources saying that the gauge listed on a lot of wire coming out of China is more or less approximate, generally smaller than claimed. So, get the higher priced wire if you want to be more confident in what you are actually getting. About the two numbers - Isn't one of the numbers to do with the number of strands (fine vs coarse)? Edited to add: I see now that the chart Sniper linked to has the strand count info listed as well.
  7. My 62 Chrysler Newport had the transmission mounted service brake as well, although by then it was an internal system (like a drum brake on the wheels). Am I correct in remembering that it was still the band brake type in 53?
  8. I sort of figured you mean something like piano wire, but had to look it up to be sure. Can you bend that stuff w/o heating it, and if you do, do you need to re-temper it? (I ask for two reasons - natural curiosity, and because I know I'm missing some of those special springs that hold the rollers in the window winding mechanism into the window guides.)
  9. Yeah, I saw that too. Way to far away for me.
  10. So, for those who need to find a dipstick that will give an accurate reading, the measurements taken from either of the two styles on the left in J Sabah's photo will give the correct distances from the top of the hole in the block. Add the length of the tube you are using, and that will provide what is needed. (I have one of the late P15 dipsticks, but I didn't copy down the over-all length, only the measurements from the tip up to the markings. If someone still needs that, I can get it tomorrow.)
  11. FureyLee, Thanks. That explains why I can't find the dipstick tube - because there isn't any. (I tore that blown engine down back in 81 or 82, and my memory has suffered since then....)
  12. I am curious if any one else has, or has seen, one shaped like the one I posted a picture of. (See above, Wednesday, post # 19.)
  13. I think I recall you mentioning in the past that you had the clutch rebuilt, so this wouldn't be your problem, but on the first engine swap I did (where I was the one who said we could do it - my buddy had never done much mechanic work at all), we had FOUR pieces of threaded rod, AND a stabbing shaft out of another transmission to get the clutch lined up. After laying on the dirt floor of the barn basement with the trannie on my chest, over & over trying to get it all the way in, we finally pulled the engine back out, installed the transmission that way, then reinstalled engine & trannie as a unit. The guy I was doing this for later had to replace the clutch - discovered that the clutch spring plate was weak, and that is why every time we put a bit of weight on the clutch plate while trying to get the transmission shaft to line up with the pilot bearing, it pulled the clutch disk down out of place. (This was even with the guide bolts in place, so that clutch was really weak.) Edit to add: I just saw that you said that you loosened the clutch plate. Maybe someone with more experience (or actual training - I just learned by watching my dad & older brother do it) will say that that is the way to do it, but the way I was taught was to depress the clutch while inserting the stabbing shaft, then release the clutch, and allow the clutch pressure plate to hold the disk in place while installing the transmission.
  14. I was sure I had the dipstick tube as well, but here is a photo of the dipstick that was on the (blown) engine on my 49 1st series. I bought the car out of the back row of a salvage in 1981, and the license plate date was 1960. I tell that to indicate that if a different dipstick was fitted to the car, it happened in that span of years. I always assumed that this was the "correct" dipstick for the P15, since the engine that came with my 46 is a 55 model. (The dipstick I have installed is much longer than this one, and has the single round finger hole like all of the ones pictured in this thread so far.
  15. If I understand what is being said here, the P15 bell-housing has the round vent holes, and the later one has the square vent hole. (Correct?) I was wondering which one I have in my 46, because I have a 55 model engine in it - came with the car when I bought it in 1980. I had a 1st series 49 bell-housing too, but it was apparently stolen out of the trunk of the car while it sat in my parent's back yard for many years. (My dad stopped some guys who were attempting to steal the whole car once some years ago. They must have stolen any cast iron that was loose, because some of my brother's parts were also missing from the trunk of a 51 Plymouth he had there.)
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