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maddmaxx1949

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About maddmaxx1949

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    United States
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Dodge Coronet and 1951 Dodge Coronet

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    old cars and acquiring things

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  1. I'll try and crawl under one of my cars in better shape and snap some photos. I have a 51 dodge I can check but they might be in bad shape as well. I'll try and snag them tomorrow morining
  2. Bartenderfloyd, I've been running into this as well with mine. I have absolutely nothing to go off of as my floors look much like yours. I do know that the floor, rocker and sill all sit on top of each other along a flat lip. Outside of the floor pan, inside of the sill and inside rocker if that makes sense. The braces go over the body mounts but I also have not a clue how they tie into the inner rocker. If someone had a picture of the underside of the car it would be good.
  3. Thank you greg, throttle plate is the word I was thinking of when I said valve. Was on the tip of my tongue
  4. Just spitballing here but maybe running too rich as you add gas to it? so by the time you are hitting full throttle your ratio is off? (Edit) And have you checked the linkage for your accelerator pedal. i.e. Pushing the pedal all the way down equals wide open on the carb. Possibly not pushing your valve all the way open?
  5. I know you guys probably get tired of seeing me post here, but the learning experience for me is so exciting and frankly there are so few people of my generation that are interested in these things that this forum is one of the few places I can show and get genuinely interested and supportive replies. I digress. Took the Sill to the local shop for their hydraulic press to make the sill dimple things. Didn't have one myself plus they are good family friends, retired, and more than happy to help me with this. Always great to bounce ideas off of others. Super pleased with the results. Came out fa
  6. Found a post on the HAMB where someone did a similar operation with putting the recesses in a sill. Cut a small piece of scrap with a 1.5" hole saw and am going to use the backing plate I created plus the button result from using a hole saw and press it. with a small taper on both I don't think it will cut it or anything. recess is fairly shallow anyways. Just wanted to show you all the solution I came up with. Also cut the old sill off and loosely test fit the new sill on the passenger side and to my surprise it actually fit quite nicely. I need to figure out where I need to keep the middle p
  7. Welcome, Owning a Warlock is one of my lifetime goals so if you're ever selling..... in regards to the car, that, in my opinion, isn't the worst i've seen by any stretch. Not good, but I think that's wholly a workable amount of corrosion. having an 8 cylinder is pretty cool I haven't seen a ton of them myself and I think it is worth keeping as the powerplant. I'd be curious to see what some scotchbrite could do just to get some of the heavy stuff off the edges of the valves and inside cylinder one which looks to be the main culprit. If its in your budget, I'd say pull and rebuild. If it's not
  8. Passenger rocker finished excluding welding the seam together but my goodness that was a battle trying to muscle the bends by hand mostly. I am a fairly small individual at a buck twenty-five and I was simply not enough mass to bend some of the 90's even with all the extra sheet metal as leverage. Might as well have stood on it. Between Dad and I and a big hammer smacking it while it had some tension on it I managed to get it but definitely wore me out. First picture shows where I put a small curve in the sill where it kicks out to meet the rocker. This is right about where the top of the chro
  9. https://www.amazon.com/L-4-1-Inline-Tube-Stainless-Tubing/dp/B01CRHS3DO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=stainless+fuel+line+5%2F16"&qid=1618023225&s=automotive&sr=1-3
  10. I make mine out of 5/16 steel. You can get a roll and make your own fairly inexpensively if you have a flareing tool. Haven't bought some in a while but I imagine steel lines are still pretty common.
  11. Just some photos of my progress on the DIY rocker panels. I bought a 2" OD 0.24 pipe in order to get what I thought woulld be an appropriate radius for the rocker. I compared it to the '51 and It looked the the radius was approximately a little tighter than the width of the chrome trim which is where I can up with my 2" OD. I thought I'd be able to secure it by running a flat 1/2" x 1/2" bar across the pipe and clamping the center of it while tack welding the ends, however, I ran into trouble with the clamps slipping off when I went to bend it. My method was similar to Trev's Blog video on roc
  12. Marc, I am just about to do a similar thing with my crusty old 49. I was wondering if you could tell me if the mounts I have circled all sit flush with each other at the top. The ones on my car are all rotted off or hanging by a thread so I am not sure. I will be making new ones but needed to know if they were supposed to be in line with each other. Thanks
  13. I also tighten from the middle outwards to avoid any kind of creasing and such. not sure if it does anything but I haven't had one leak yet.
  14. Well, I got my template made based off an original brass one I pulled out of my 218. Ended just using some scrap steel and cutting and grinding down to size until the original tube slid over it snug. Lots of grinding, was not very fun, but a steel template can withstand more abuse than a hardwood one can. My first trial and error attempt using the brass tubing I got is ongoing. Lots of trial, mostly errors but hey its all for fun anyways. The brass is picky about the heat range so you have to keep an eye on it the whole time. Quench then hammer. Can't get too hot or it'll burn off the zinc and
  15. Dad and I still do it occasionally "Down.....up.......down.......up........down.................up." Never had one of those fancy self bleeder things.
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