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maddmaxx1949

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About maddmaxx1949

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    Member

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  • My Project Cars
    1949 Dodge Coronet and 1951 Dodge Coronet

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    old cars and acquiring things

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  1. You can also try a hand crank starter from a farmall A. This is was works for at least on the 3 engines i've tried. It inserts into the nut and catches on the two elevated points if that makes sense. Not sure if that will work though if you have to go clear down to 1/2" now that I've reread that
  2. Seconding the post from Adams, I've missed that one twice when pulling manifolds. Once that one was loose I was able to give it a jiggle and it came off. Just don't bang on the manifold that's how I cracked my last one...
  3. Figured While I had the drivetrain out of the car I'd look at the master cylinder. It was bolted to the frame unlike the truck cylinders I am used to. Going with a single system for simplicity sake in order to save time and some $$. That aside, Everything on the trans bolted together nicely however since I have the engine on a truck frame the starter no longer clears the Steering box. looks like its a little lower than the standard truck bellhousing I had on before. So in case anyone wanted to put a fluid drive on a B series, that would be something to look out for. For now I'm going to pull the engine off the frame and get ready to install it in the car, Order a master cylinder and once that gets here I can figure out what I need as far as linkage and finally hook up everything to the car and test the trans. Then onto brakes and lines. I thought I was going to need some new lower arms on the front end but it turns out they were just coated in an inch thick of 50 yr old grease so crisis averted. Stuff was hard as a rock. Amazes me how they managed to put thirteen billion grease fittings on that front end.....
  4. I took the radiator support bracket and drilled out the spot welds which held the plate holding the carriage bolts (note its easier to drill out spot welds than grind them, lesson learned). I'm just going to replace them with regular bolts so the next time I have to do this its easier. Got it all welded back together just going to Weld on nuts where I cut the threads out earlier and tack all of the other threaded parts down so they dont break loose again. Sand and painting the bracket is on the list for tomorrow as well getting the transmission installed. I am missing the clutch cover which the lower two bolts of the trans connect to so I'm going to have to scrounge one up.
  5. Well, new pilot bushing I picked up from Napa was too big so since the old ones still in there I'm just going to use it. Will finally have everything bolted in tomorrow for the final confirmation.
  6. Clutch came in along with the Spicer conversions. Like a kid on Christmas when I got them on the porch this afternoon. New disk fits like a glove. Definitely recommending those guys at Tennessee clutch in the future. Couple of other questions arose when I went to put it together. And the Spicer 2-2-349 fit great. So for future member searches. The Spicer 2-2-349 works with a conventional 3-speed from a 1949 Dodge Coronet. 1.) the Runner Bushing (looks like a pilot bushing they might be the same thing) inside the fluid drive, is that an easily replaceable part? or should I just leave 'er as is and send it? 2.) My pressure plate has a some grooving in it. Is this worth a rebuild or again just send it? These questions aside I don't see any additional issues arising from putting the fluid drive onto the 218. So long as the corresponding crank with bolt on to the fluid drive unit and one has the proper bellhousing. I appreciate all the input and help with this!
  7. I'll check on the drain plug tomorrow. I'll dig up the other one and see if its the same exact as it might not be. Need to research the difference between synchro and non sychro as I have no idea what that means. Is the 3-24-49 the date of manufacture? and is there a way to tell what a transmission is just by the cast number? I've had a nightmare of a time trying to ID a 3 speed from a coronet with just google
  8. Hey fellas, need help Identifying a couple of transmissions dad and I own. Got them from an old farmer with a couple of 250's a number of years ago. I used the one pictured with a 218 to drive a frame around and I'd like some info. I'm not sure if the thing come down and off to the side is for 4wd or a PTO maybe?
  9. Ordered the Spicer 2-2-349. Should be here by Thursday or so about 100$ for a pair of them which to me isn't bad. I can then have a driveline shop fab a traditional driveshaft as opposed to frankensteining/finding and rebuilding an old one. Still waiting on that clutch disk to come in likely tomorrow. Will update once everythings arrived. Thanks DJ for that link. awesome project and documentation on that site.
  10. Got a hold of Wayne and asked about rocker panels. Quality vs. cost comparison with one side of inner an outer rockers around 300$ is leading me to think I should order one side only and see if I can replicated or fab the other side partially for cost savings and partially for fabricating practice. The rockers aren't going immediately in so if I order them now I have some time to work on the transmission and the radiator support so I can get the powerplant in this thing. Have new rear motor mounts and clutch disk on the way and should be here by Thursday. Then I'll move to Brakes and Body work. Definitely don't want to dive in to more things I can handle at once but I hate sitting around waiting on parts.
  11. While I'm on the same subject of the driveline and waiting on the clutch disk to arrive, I'm going to convert this to a traditional U joint shaft instead of the ball and trunion driveshaft. I don't have one any ways and the traditional driveshafts can be had pretty cheap. I ran across a thread mentioning the Spicer 2-2-349 adapter and was curious to know if this would work with my transmission or if anyone had used them for theirs as well? Biggest concern for me is will it fit inside the flange. The bolt to bolt numbers look close enough to me to be attributed to human error. http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-2-2-349.html is where I found the dimensions for the adapter. ID of the flange ~ 3.339" Bolt to Bolt (center to center) - 2.175" Bolt to Bolt (center to center) - 1.840"
  12. I'll give him a call on Monday and see If I can get a quote. I didn't see any prices listed in the catalog. This is a bit of a budget build and while I don't have any concern for buying new parts I need sometimes it can be hard to justify when I only paid 500 bucks for the car. Was going to clean and repaint the Radiator support bracket today. Went to get the carriage bolts out since the threads were shot but to no available. Got a little over-zealous with the torch and the result ended up with me cutting out the lower portion out so I can fab it at the machine shop next door. Owner is now retired and is willing to teach me and let use his equipment. Is it common to take out the original threaded retainers and just weld nuts on instead? They are pretty rusty so that was the game plan. Probably can't head over to the shop until Tuesday getting a 54 buick posted for sale for a friend down south monday evening....
  13. Robert those look great! did you fabricate the floors yourself or buy them? I know I guy in New Concord who did a couple hotrods and said I could make my own but I'm not sure how easy that is going to be compared to premade floor pans.
  14. Here is the thread that answered my questions on whether or not the fluid drive form the car would work with the truck 218. Alot of this project is going to be me digging around in the barn and using whatever parts I have on hand. https://p15-d24.com/topic/53077-1949-fluid-drive-onto-52-truck-engine/
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