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maddmaxx1949

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maddmaxx1949 last won the day on June 30

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About maddmaxx1949

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Location
    United States
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Dodge Coronet and 1951 Dodge Coronet

Converted

  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    old cars and acquiring things

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  1. Update: The 1505 bearings that alot of the auto parts stores call for do not fit the fluid drive option. I ended getting a National 1847 bearing which worked. Thanks Sniper for the cross reference help. I Reinstalled the release bearing and transmission/driveshaft. Now onto the next/recurring issue. Clutch disengagement. I am also not sure on the pedal feel. I tried my 1950 chrysler pedal and it is smooth from top to the bottom of travel. The clutch on this one, not so much. It makes me wonder if I am missing a return spring or something. So, Question: What is the method for return
  2. Last donor engine I had i used a crowbar. Snapped the heads off three valves the engine was already fubar'd with a huge crack from freezing. But brake fluid would made my life a heckuva lot easier. You should've seen that valve take off across the shop.
  3. Thanks Sniper I did indeed forget to mention that. I feel like I had already posted it but it was on another thread. They all start running together....
  4. Here's how I just did my M37 after the timing got all buggered up. Same thing, I couldn't seem to get it to fire. 1.) Locate TDC using static timing procedure. 2.) Gap points at 0.020 or whatever it calls for for your vehicle. 3.) I started with the distributor major adjustment all the way to one side, tightened then reinstalled distributor. 4.) With ignition on and cap removed. Loosen minor adjustment. rotate distributor by hand until you see/hear a spark at the points. If you do not get a spark, try your major adjustment again, maybe somewhere in the mi
  5. You can add an inline filter prior to and after the fuel pump if you want instead.
  6. The truck starter has a footpedal start that goes through the floor and pushes the lever on top which engages the bendix and completes the circuit via the switch on top of the starter connected to the lever. I believe at that point the cars had a standard electric start with a solenoid and ignition switch thus eliminating the need for the lever on the starter. I tried to use a truck starter in my 49 but the lever contacted the steering column.
  7. Also, does it not crank at all or are you just not getting spark?
  8. normally around 7 o clock rotor position for #1 at TDC on its compression stroke. you can check TDC with the small plug directly over the #6 cyclinder at the back of the head as #1 and #6 are at TDC at the same time.. I use a 5/16" welding rod with the flux stripped off in the hole to see the piston height. You can verify #1 is on the compression stroke by pulling #1 spark plug and trying to blow in some compressed air while at TDC. Resistance means its on the compression stroke. If air flows freely its on the exhaust stroke, you need to rotate it until its back at TDC on the compression stro
  9. For instance, my 1949 Dodge Coronet is labeled as a D30 and is designated in the parts book as such.
  10. Thank you that's kind of what I figured. So now I have 4 that I don't need lying around.
  11. Took me a minute as apparently the "Find" feature does not pick up the 316TN332. It's on pg. 80 for anyone looking. Thanks again. Sanity partially restored
  12. Sniper thank you. I was questioning my sanity (not that I don't do that daily). Ironically, the MRC catalog did not have a cross reference and neither did Aetna. I also wonder what the 1505 bearing is applicable to. Do non-fluid drive vehicles have a narrower input shaft?
  13. Okay, so I didn't want to come to the forum with this but I've exhausted my internet/ebay searching skills. I ordered a throwout bearing supposedly for a 49 dodge coronet. However, the bearing size is significantly smaller, It's not big enough to slide over the transmission shaft and I can't install it on my existing sleeves because again it's too small. It was a national 1505 and from autozone (not that I expect much here) to rockauto they all List that as the bearing replacement. What gives? Am I totally missing some basic info? I tried cross referencing the bearings I had on my sleeves I pu
  14. Also I did forget to mention, the problem could have largely been due to the bracket I fabricated to hold the pivot arm. If you look in my other thread on the rebuild, you can see I made a bracket that holds it because I couldn't find the orginal. This was not made correctly and having found my original, it moved the pivot arm up about an inch which also straightened the angle it pushes against the release lever. This could very well have been my issue but I won't know until it goes back together.
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