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dmartin_egroup

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About dmartin_egroup

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    W. Tennessee
  • Interests
    antique cars, tractors, toy trains
  • My Project Cars
    maintaining my 1945 Dodge WC 1/2 ton, and my 1937 Plymouth 4-dr sedan, both restored to original 20 years ago.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    raised near Chicago, IL
  • Occupation
    retired

Converted

  • Location
    West Tennessee, near Jackson
  • Interests
    1941 Ford 9N and 1958 I-H Cub tractors

Recent Profile Visitors

688 profile views
  1. Good evening, Bob: I have not seen how your car's trunk lid springs are arranged, but let me share some general ideas from the past. Some springs, notably hood springs, which are coil springs (hopefully similar to your trunk springs) can be stretched WHILE NOT ON THE CAR by some outside means (use your own ideas). While holding the spring stretched, place suitable-size washers between each coil, holding them possibly with tape. Now you can release your tension and the spring only shortens a little bit. The washers keep the spring extended enough to easily slip it on to the attachment points. Then when you move the trunk lid to stretch the springs, the washers are released. Think about this principle a little while, it may be useable in your case. Dennis Martin
  2. I do not have access to earlier discussion of this topic. I think you say we must match the engine number to a number on the chassis. WHERE ON THE CHASSIS MUST WE LOOK? My car is a 1937 Plymouth, it may be different from a P15. Thanks much!!
  3. I note several are suggestion using a multi-meter. Do any of you have a meter that will give accurate readings below say 200 ohms? A fuel sender is in pretty low ohms range. Just saying....
  4. Just a comment from a bystander; in this forum some folks are from countries that the driver sits on the right side. Use careful terminology, for them the driver's side means their right, therefore right hand threads! BTW, along with Mopar, Studebaker use left-hand threads during similar years. I don't recall who else...... The logic of the right/left threads was that you tighten bolt on both sides by turning wrench toward the front of vehicle. To loosen bolts, turn wrench toward the rear.
  5. The 'Ball and Trunnion" u-joint, also called "Detroit" type is much different from others, such as the "Spicer" type. Info that I know about is in my 1936 to 42 Plymouth parts book, also my Dodge truck parts book covering many models including the 1/2 ton model WC. I am not much good at copying pictures from books, or Ebay. I did look in Ebay for Mopar kits, found a few with pics, but no Mopar number listed. BTW, I don't recall caps or serrated clips as parts of the joints I am referring to. I think our discussion may be about two different types of joints. The "Detroit" type was used in some cars into the 1960s.
  6. Sort of off topic: Has anyone asked a shop to dis-assemble the u-joints of this type (I am assuming the "ball and trunnion" type)? Reason for question: Several years ago, I had my 1937 Plymouth sedan drive shaft in an auto repair shop, the mechanic was using a large hydraulic press to attempt dis-assembly. He gave up, and I was relieved as it looked as though the joint parts or the press/mandrel parts might pop out like a bullet. Result? The old joints are still in my 37 Plym, still vibrate. Sorry about getting off the O.P.'s original question. I think many people read forums hoping to gain information they can use themselves.
  7. Good afternoon: The water pump shaft seals may not hold up if pressure cap is too high a value. It may be hard to research what water pump seals you have. Just sayin'.... In my opinion, the next weak spot would be the so-called freeze plugs.
  8. Thanks for posting your success!! People reading this always want to know how it turned out. My opinion.....
  9. Good evening: Regarding rubber stripping for windows, I think you might want to get samples of products being reproduced for other makes of vehicles. Something is probably out there that you can make work! I would also advise keeping every bit of your existing rubber stripping, to use for comparison, and also in case you are forced to put the old stuff back on the vehicle. Good luck!
  10. I have read that hammering on the puller will damage the axle bearings which are tapered roller type. Just sayin'...
  11. This is not help, but what is called doghouse on these trucks?? Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  12. I would say that if a stud can not be unscrewed, then it is not going to be leaking coolant. If threads are good, I would leave well enough alone. Each stud should be examined with this thought in mind. Just my humble opinion! Dennnis M. in W. Tenn.
  13. Believe it or not, I drive my 1945 half-ton once a week, the tires get dirty and worn, so if there is rain everything gets wet, and when I get in and out I step (carefully) on the running boards! The truck is developing its own patina. Regarding the running boards, I try to park on surfaces that are NOT like loose gravel or sand, to keep my shoes clean; Also I am careful not to twist or rotate my shoes on the running board, so wear is minimal. Just my way of keeping this old thing pretty good, but not perfect.
  14. Tying the gas pedal to the steering column was probably needed, if his pedal was like mine. The pedal is supported on two bolts on the floor, that have ball-shaped heads. The gas pedal is supposed to sort of snap onto the 2 balls, but as the pedal gets old, it does not stay. It tries to fall to the right side, making the rod that goes through the fire wall start binding. You can't fix this as you are driving along the road; trust me!
  15. Hi: My memory is not what it used to be (if it ever was!) but, on some vehicles the handle's shank becomes worn, letting the handle sag. If the handles can be swapped from side to side (i.e., swap driver's and passenger's handles) both will look good for no cost. This may not apply to your exact vehicle, but may be worth checking into. Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
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