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48ragtop

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  • My Project Cars
    1951 Dodge

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  • Location
    Lake George NY
  • Interests
    Cars

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  1. I'm going to get it up today and see if I can get the cover off for an inspection. I'll post back as to success or not and what I find. It's odd how it could stay smooth through so many cycles and then get completely off through so many cycles. (revs and clutch in and out sequences) Will definitely be one to keep in the long term memory if one ever runs across this scenario again.
  2. Wouldn't a bad motor mount do it all the time? There is not a good way to check the front as there is no way to properly jack the motor to take pressure off it. Now the 5 mile drive at varying speeds over bumps and around fairly sharp corners should have shifted something if it was a motor mount to make the problem come back. That's the odd part a long drive under those conditions and the problem wouldn't present itself. Yet the same trip today and it wouldn't go away but did occasionally change in severity. I'll have to get it in the air later today and try to get the cover off. Loose bolts could cause that problem thinking about it, but again seems like it should be more consistent. Keep the ideas coming though. I wish someone had had a similar problem as I'm in the wild ass guessing phase now. Short of pulling the engine and going over it and the coupling, which really isn't an option I'm starting to run out of things to check.
  3. I'll have to give it another look. Maybe I missed something. It dropped down but seemed attached across the back, but that's buried in the member. We'll see. Hopoe for the best. Gonna wear out my jacks and stands from the number of times i have had this thing up in the air.
  4. Does anyone know if it's possible to pull that cover in the wayfarer roadster with the engine in the car? Maybe I missed something when I was under there and had the bolts out. It's weird when I was out road testing it, one time I stopped, long enough to put the top down as I had never driven it with it down after test driving probably 10 miles, when I pulled out on the road and drove back to town another 5 miles the darn thing was as smooth as could be all the way back. I was running along at 55, lots of corners I slowed down in a few hills to accelerate on, and even drove it through town on the way back stopping at a couple of lights. No real vibration at any time. That was the puzzling part. I originally thought maybe it had the wrong fluid (maybe too thick) in the Coupling and when it finally heated up from engine heat sink (from the time it took me to put down the top) it flowed properly so it wasn't working as a slug in there like the colder oil might have. (you try to think of anything when you get to this point) That was the original reason I changed the fluid in it as who knows what they had filled it with.
  5. Being I can get the vibration to come and go with it in neutral sitting in the driveway just revving the engine , we can eliminate probably everything from the tranny back. Atleast the driveshaft back as none of those are moving at that point. Good ideas to check though if i do get this "stationary" vibration fixed and develop anymore when I get it back out for a test drive. I did actually mount and bubble balance the wheels/tires myself. We did run the car on jack stands initially before I found the bad joint and checked for tire run out as well. All was good with the wheels/ tires from what we could see. I didn't put the coupling or clutch plate in the car. That work was done before me. Is there any way to check those without pulling the engine / tranny? It's a Wayfarer roadster so it has a huge X member that makes alot of work under the car more difficult and from what I see, it may not be possible to pull the pan in the car as I tried that to drain it, but couldn't figure out any way to get it out, so I pulled the plug through the fill hole and rotated the engine by hand until it completely drained then rotated it back and forth some after letting it sit to make sure I got all the fluid out. Keep the ideas coming though. If nothing else I'll file them for the next car I get that someone else gave up on. Getting close to that point on this one.
  6. I do want to mention the vibration has a cyclical or droning to it if that helps at all.
  7. I've got a vibration that has been driving myself and my friend that actually worked for GM as a field engineer diagnosing driveline vibrations nuts. Originally the car had several issues I took care of including a new ball and trunnion Ujoint with housing as both were run dry and damaged. Well that took care of my consistent vibration. Now I have one that comes and goes. Can come in bad at slow speeds or high speeds and then can go completely away so the car is smooth. Temperature doesn't make a difference, road conditions don't. It seems to be pretty much isolated to the engine fluid coupling assembly. (once i got everything else fixed we are finally able to get to this). I have drained and refilled the coupling with the recommended fluid you can only get in the 5 gallon pail and it still does it. I added a vibration damper it didn't have and that didn't fix it. Just sitting in the driveway with the car in Neutral I can rev it over and over carefully and alot of the time you can feel the vibration, trying to match the rpms each time and make note of the vibration as to when it comes in and and and if it does. Occasionally it is completely gone when I go back to idle and bring the revs up. Then repeating the procedure I can get it to come back. It does it more often than not but it may be vibration free for a few cycles in a row. Now I did actually unbolt the rear mounts and lift pressure up on the engine just to make sure my problem wasn't motor mounts and that made no difference. They look in good shae and are good and soft but firm enough as any Motor mount I have ever had my hands on. Is there any chance something might have come apart inside the Coupling, throwing it out of balance and as it gets thrown around in the coupling it occasionally finds something close to it's home spot so it balances? The coupling seems to perform as designed with no excessive slippage when I drive it. Could the engine be out of balance and the coupling actually occasionally balances it out? Any suggestions or diagnosing techniques welcome. My wife just believes the car is possessed and there is no fix.
  8. Well they put them on for a reason so not all must have been vibration free without one. The factory rarely adds parts that aren't needed. I have no idea if it ever had one or if this was even the original engine to the car. Being it was all apart anything is possible and even probable after all I have fixed so far. Is it indexed any chance differently between a desoto and a dodge, thus the reason the different numbers? If it counterbalances it the wrong way it will aggravate the problem not alleviate it.
  9. Well seems like a damper will help. Can't hurt. Infact it seems the way Dodge applied them, they stuck them on cars that came off the line with a problem, almost as an afterthought fix, otherwise they would have all had them and would have been a unit that doesn't slip over the big nut and would have been all one piece. It's hard to describe how bad it is. It's not going to shake your fillings out, but it is noticeable, especially to someone who is in tune to picking stuff like that up. Now the Ujoint I replaced was ridiculous. So does anyone know if it will work?
  10. I've been sorting out a 1951 Dodge Roadster I bought a couple of years ago. It has a standard 3 speed in it. One of the last things to sort is a vibration in the engine that comes in at certain Rpms and then goes away as they increase, until the frequency comes back around at a higher RPM. The car had extensive Restoration work and was completely apart at which point it was sold and finished by someone else. I believe the vibration is the engine is unbalanced. It currently has no damper on it. I know they were randomly put on Dodges in this era so it may have never had one. I would like to add one. I currently have a lower pulley with no holes for one. I do have access to a complete damper with hub and pulley from a 1950 Desoto with Fluid Drive. Can this be used? According to the 1953 parts book, the hubs all have the same number so it looks like it will physically bolt on, but will the pulleys line up and will the weight be properly aligned to give me the counterbalance that an original damper for the car (shows as a different number) will? I did check the motor mounts before getting this far and they are all good. I even disconnected the rears and put a little up pressure with the jack to make sure they weren't touching and still had the vibration. So pretty sure it's the engine being unbalanced.
  11. How is the fit of the repro tail light assemblies and brake light? Can yo just throw away the innards and use the oem components instead? So you are just using the bezels and gaskets?
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