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It’s now sitting in car. Won’t be long now

CARma for sure

I would buy it but its missing a couple trim pieces that would be hard to find.

And make sure your shoes have been ground/sanded to match the drum's diameter. Based on your area code I assume you are in northern or central Louisiana. Maybe there is a member near there who has either a Miller or Ammco tool and can pipe up.

Could paint it yellow, make it look like a block of cheese. Put Green Bay stickers on it, drive it to the home games. Or make look like sponge bob.

Wife scored me some great stuff today! $22.50 for the entire pile. All old made in USA stuff except maybe the puller I didn't find any markings on it

Hello All, It’s been ages since I posted to the forum, although I follow it regularly. So I wanted to share a solution I found for my brake drums – specifically 11” diameter drums, 2” width, and a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. As many of you know, these are hard to find and very expensive! This was a journey of countless hours that turned into days and then weeks, with many promising leads that turned into dead ends along with a fair share of mistakes. A couple notable things I tried that didn’t work include: · I came across a manufacturer who was willing to make drums for me, but the minimum order size was well over $2,000. I called Gary up at Roberts to see if he’d be interested in going in with me, but even then the price per drum was prohibitive. · I contacted a company called “J&G Drum Relining” about relining my existing drums, but the price for doing this was almost $400 each. · I bought and subsequently returned several drums – including blank ones that let you drill out your own bolt holes - that looked like they might work. In each case I hit a show-stopper: center (hub) hole too large/small, overall width incorrect, and so on. Finally I came across a post in a car forum that gave me an idea. Instead of looking for an impossibly narrow 2” drum to fit inside of the backing plate, what about a wider, flared drum that fits around the outside? Bingo! I found one that did the trick after a bit of modification. It’s a finned drum by Raybesto, part number 2955R. It has an outside diameter of 13.62" but the all-important inside diameter is 11”. It has a 5x4.5 bolt pattern and 3” center hole. They’re available on Rockauto for $35 each plus shipping. And now for the details

I believe a couple of the bushings are left hand thread, but I don't recall which ones. Maybe this video from Tim Estrada, a.k.a. "48Dodger" will help you.

Yeah, its the biggest one I've ever been in. The amount of cars pre 1954 is amazing. Stacks of rear ends, carbs, on and on. Check out these old wagons/trailers stuffed full of vintage parts, all rusting peacefully - but then again, its Colorado rust, not the same as east or left coast rust.

The idle and main air bleed are affected also a poor seal between the top cover and main carb body. Can cause poor idling and or high speed mis- fire.

If you want to reuse it just for some testing spray it with silver paint and then go ahead and reuse. For long term I wouldn't reuse it.

yah, I'd never resuse a head gasket...cheaper insurance to put a new one in every time IMO than to have issues later to save a few bucks.

If it were me, I would say no on reusing the copper gasket... and I would at the least lap the valves while your in it that far. but that is just me.

Well, not ready to mount yet, but did DA sand with 80 grit and treat the passenger side with a rust inhibitor. Will finish tomorrow. The surface result is really nice, all ready for paint. Will push it into the alley early one morning to paint. Probably a satin black.

Maybe not this exact setup. It was for illustration mostly. but for crying out loud, if you can't make a jack and a couple pieces of 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 work on the side of the road you better do what Reg Evans does and make the call.

and that...is reason enough never to be on a CB....

Catch you on the flip flop. Keep the shiney side up and the greasy side down, stay out a ditches, don't play with lot whitches. They will give the itches, down in your britches. We out now!

Looking for a new wife?? ? DO NOT let the wife see this post!! DJ

google "aluminum race day jack" they are light weight, have decent lift capacity and height. not sure if they will fit under the seat but they are nice compact jacks. can be lifted fairly easily and have a long handle to get out from the truck incase it falls which is much safer then the old style jacks

Wall to wall and treetop tall. Powerline was the handle, TRC-490 chip modded and jail broke transmitting from a 15m tri-axial base tower at home. On the road I had CB's in almost every vehicle I owned until cell phones became the rage. Moved three times since I took the tower down, but still have all the gear. Someday it may go back up with a new radio shack in the garage. Fond memories for sure. Little known fact, I met my brother in law on the CB and he introduced me to my wife.... 32 years ago! I've been looking at buying a new set for the Sedan and installing a nice whip.

I've got my license from back (way back) when it was required by the FCC, but darned if I remember my number. Here in Maine they call CB "MURS" (Multiple Use Radio System) out in the woods. Smaller frequency band, not as many watts, so the timber companies don't walk on each other. Loggers use it to announce locations of trucks and other equipment on the roads in the North Maine Woods. No cellular service in most of the NMW. Good to have so you know where the log drivers are and which way they're going, since log trucks have the right of way in the NMW (all private and corporate roads). So, after not using my Radio Shack CB since I got out of high school, I've dusted it off and put it in my pick-up truck for forays into the wilderness. I turn it on for giggles once in a while, but all I get is woods traffic. Probably going to invest in a modern one, that old transistor CB doesn't quite cut it any more.

Body primed and put back on the frame, doors fitted. All is well!!

I consider a set of the original cast iron headers to be a major score!

I would be very surprised to find any repo rubber parts that were a material match to an original. I mean, just look at what happens to even tires from the Orient. Early cracking, poor wear etc. I think we're lucky to get parts the same size, never mind hardness and flexibility. Yeah, I know I'm a cranky old cuss and don't trust offshore vendor sources. But that doesn't mean I'm wrong. I'd try a lot of things before paying the exorbitant prices of some rubber parts.

This is the two barrel intake from my 56 engine.

Did I ever post this Dodge - JD picture here? (An Amish friend of mine saw it some place, and took this picture.)

where do you want this car flipping done...out on Highway 61...!! poor ole long roof never saw it coming...

Ok! Fun day today! Dropped the pan. Thought there would have been more sludge. It was pretty easy to clean. Like Don Coatney said, a little elbow grease makes a difference. Took some pics of the underside of the engine. Excuse all the pics.

It looks like somebody tried to convert to 12V, it has the Express (stepside) running boards, almost looks like a dual wheel rear axle, not the original ignition key cylinder, a few other interior add-ons are present...if there is no key or title available, I would only give 1000 for it if it had a bag of $500 stashed under the seat

no promises but, i'll check tonight. I bought my kits from Mikes http://www.carburetor-parts.com/ I don't think they have the bar but I know they have those little screws...... hey don't feel bad, I recently rewired our B4 and I misplaced the ignition! wasn't until after I replaced it with another one I found the old one......turned out, it was the last place I looked

I'll be installing a factory correct used rear bumper on "The Brick"....I plan on doing a complete teardown this year, so this will be a fit-up really. Definitely will have a few pictures to share. 48D

Being the clever rascal that I am, I laid the original hub in the new drum and the center hole fits PERFECTLY (to the right in the picture). Now just line up the original bolt holes in the hub with the existing ½ inch holes in the drum, thread in the lug bolts, and tighten firmly to lock the hub in position. With this done you can use the existing rivet holes in the hub as a guide and drill out the five holes with a 5/16 bit. My shoulder's a bit sore from patting myself on the back.. :-)

i've got a '37 plymouth sedan with a stock (but non-original) 23" flathead that i ruined a couple years ago. i've had a constant struggle since then deciding what i should do for a replacement. option 1) the guy who sold me the car has a small block 360 from a late 60's dodge truck that he was going to put in it. he says it has j-heads, but i don't know how to externally tell the difference. it needs the typical tuneup parts, as well as an alternator, fuel pump, headers/manifolds, crank pulley, and a carb (comes with a 2bbl and a 4bbl offy intake, and i already have a 4bbl carb that needs rebuilding). the motor does turn and he's got the original motor mounts. he wants $300; but is willing to let me work it off. he has already given me the original-mating 4spd NB435 tranny, an additional NB435 tranny, and a '73 challenger rear end (7:28? it's tagged 2.76) free of charge. the rear end does need all the brake components. he says he chose that particular setup because it wouldn't take much modification to make it work; i.e. still use the stock front end, radiator, driveshaft, little to no steering box issues. he has even offered to help me put it in out of the goodness of his heart. in my research in this forum over the past several hours, i've seen a few mentions of 318s and a couple folks who actually did it. one post has jonnyz72 who says the original front end, rear end, and radiator were still used with his 318 for daily driver use. if i went the 360 route, i would eventually want to put discs in the front. i'm still unclear if the radiator would be sufficient. i know a 12v conversion would be necessary, but i'm not worried about that. pictures or videos of the work of this conversion would be great. option 2) i've recently found a '46 fargo dodge truck engine (25"). this engine also turns and appears in decent shape. there has been confusion whether it's a 238 or a 218... i'm inclined towards a 218 because i've never heard of a 238. the owner is willing to work out a trade with me for some stuff i don't need anymore. there is a bellhousing, but no transmission. i've heard that all one would need to do is move the mounts on the top of the radiator to push it forward. in a mock radiator setup, this appears to give me the clearance i need for the fan, but also blocks access to the filler cap. i see don coatney has done the conversion quite nicely, but he has a later plymouth that's not so narrow in the nose. whether or not i go with this option, i would also love to see pictures or videos of how people make this mod work. option 3) i also found a rusty/stuck engine/trans from a '39-'40 dodge truck... more or less for best offer. i'm not sure what size the block is, but even though it's cheap, i don't have money to throw into a heavy piece of scrap. i already have one in my plymouth. actually coming up with a free-turning 23" 218 or 230 that's within my financial means is proving near impossible. this said, i don't have money or space to work on this project at the moment; but warmer weather and fulltime employment would greatly help me out. at this point, i'm just trying to figure out what i can do. if i can come up with a plan and score one of these engines for little or no cash, i would feel a lot more comfortable about where i'm going with this project. i was hardly able to work in the garage at all last summer, so i've got garage fever pretty bad! oh, i suppose i should mention that my goal is to get my car to be a daily driver... if i want it to be. kinda rat roddy, kinda street roddy. i want to go to shows, cruise long distances... just enjoy driving it. and yes, i'd like to be able to go fast if i wanted to, too. i think the 360 would be my preferred route, but if i could get more of a "drop-in" engine, i could drive it while working on the 360. if i'm going to be spending practically just as much time and money with one as i would the other, i'll do the 360. i also have no experience swapping engines, so if 360 guy is willing to help me, i've got that going for me too. i plan on going to the junkyard for most of the parts i need.

Paul, You can use a clearcoat with flatner added so the paint will retain it's faded finish.