pyrodork

I've had a 48 Dodge sedan for several months now. I was changing the thermostat and ended up snapping a bolt and cracked the head trying to get it out. Having a spare head on hand, I had it resurfaced and ended up getting about .30 removed. Install went good, starts and runs great... until I put it into gear. It goes into reverse and moves good, but going forward it barely moves... all while white smoke pours out the exhaust. It does move, but not very much and at high RPMs. Put back in neutral, the smoke clears and it idles and revs fine without smoke. I put each wheel up one at a time and they all spin, so I don't think a brake is sticking (I rebuilt the cylinders and put new rubber hoses on about 2 months ago). Parking brake isn't stuck. Started the thermostat change maybe 5 weeks ago. Head was off for less than a week. Car was driving beforehand. I had been doing a few things at once, water pump and timing/points at the same time as doing the thermostat. Transmission recently drained and filled with new fluid. Fluid Drive fluid level was good. Clutch never been an issue in my ownership. Haven't dug into the clutch or transmission yet since installing the new head, but the car does move and stop... just not very well in forward gears. Only smokes when trying to drive. Just wanted to ask the experienced before tearing things apart for no reason. Any helpful feedback appreciated!

Is it safe to assume a stock 218 head has a better CR than a stock 230 head? While working on my 230, I noticed a crack. I have a bad 218 with a good head. Figured I could swap them, but wanted to get advice before putting in the time.

Met a neighbor today that's a car nut. Started up the car and they were certain it's a rod bearing. Was working on my 48 changing the thermostat at the time. Snapped a bolt, but I figured there's almost an inch I can get a vise on. Heated it up, worked it back and forth... snapped flush with the head. Ugh. Got the drill out and started small. About the third bit in, the bit snapped below flush. Got the picks out, but it was too far down. Drilled a bit more (what I could) and started welding on a nut. Second time didn't work, now I have to close up for the day. Someone is really testing me today!

Firing order (as I started with): 153624. I looked in the book to find out what I changed it to that didn't work, but all I'm finding is the order that I had before. Maybe all the stress caused some temporary dyslexia? I'll try pulling the wires one by one the next time I get to it. If the noise is a rod bearing, that would only reduce the volume when that associated wire is pulled, correct? Because the crank would still be moving the rod, but no explosion in the cylinder to magnify the force against the piston?

Update: I'm a busy guy anyway, but with a wedding coming up, time is such a privilege! I checked the firing order and it's the same as when I had the 218 installed. I tried a different order that I found in a book from another year, but I couldn't get it to start with that. I'll post what firing order I'm using the next time I have the chance. I tried to set the timing correctly before checking the firing order. After it runs for awhile and I shut it off, I can't get it to start again. After thinking about it, it's plausible that the engine had that noise before installing it and I was too distracted by the exhaust and the "not-as-sealed-as-I-thought" oil pressure line to notice. Perfect example of why I need friends! I love this car. I've had it in storage for 5 years with a blown engine (while being homeless) while trying to figure out what I should do to fix it (but I did sell my Studebaker to pay rent!). I don't see ever selling it. My dad custom painted the dash, so I have a bit of sentiment attached. That is, aside from my 1937 Plymouth collectibles as well. Point being, I'm in it for the long and winding road. I also want to learn so I can apply the knowledge to future vehicle acquisitions and generations of youth glued to digital screens. The 360 was part of my long term plan, anyway; as a winter project, since I never had the original matching engine to start with. I still plan to source this noise, but I'll be getting the 360 ready for a relatively smooth transition (as one can only hope) when the right time comes. Gotta say though, I love the sounds and smells of a good-running mopar flathead! I'm keeping it in my 1948.

Friend saw the video and thinks it's a rod bearing. Then I saw this video... Not sure if everyone can see it because it's a Facebook link. It's of a guy with his oil pan off, moving the rod back and forth. Hope it's not that! I already did that gasket! Not to mention, the pain in the butt it would be. I bought Butch's crossmember kit for my 360. I wanted to upgrade anyway, but was hoping to get some road time first. https://www.facebook.com/groups/413512055514755/permalink/518721051660521/

It's weird, though, because before I put the clutch, bell, and trans on, it didn't make a noise even resembling this.

Videos in order... Videos 3 and 4 were from today. Video 4 is after I turned down the idle speed. Video 1: Video 2: Video 3: Video 4: I was having issues uploading video 2, so let me know if that's not working.

54 dodge 230 engine (as I'm told), everything else from the unoriginal 218 that I pulled from the car; serial number shaved. Took off the lower flywheel cover, but that looks good while running. Adjusted the idle and that helped a bit. Now I think my timing is off. I took some more video today. Let me throw them on YouTube and post links.

I'll admit that I'm not experienced in tuning engines (yet). I started this 230 engine out of the car a few months ago with no major issues. I then installed the clutch and transmission from my old 218, then put in the car. Couldn't get it started. Discovered no spark in distributor. Removed distributor and installed new wire. Tried cranking with plug on coil and got spark. Realized I should have put the distributor back in before cranking. Put distributor back in. Few days later, the engine started, but a knock/tapping sound that wasn't there before. Opening the choke caused the noise to get louder and more defined. Hard to find even the area the noise is coming from. If I kept the choke almost entirely closed, I didn't get the noise... or not nearly as much. Another couple days later, started her up again to try to find the source of the noise. Felt around the block and components with my hand to feel for extra vibrations. Too hard to tell. Put the car in gear and it sounds horrible. Car moves in both directions but has grinding noise. Felt the bottom of the clutch/flywheel cover from under the car and I think that's it. After shutting the car off, I noticed that the oil drain plug is almost rubbing against the tie rod. Maybe? I'm thinking that the clutch is likely suspect because the sound wasn't there before I installed it. I had a heck of a time changing it over from the column shift transmission with having to grind down the bellhousing so the flywheel wouldn't hit. I have a video of the noise, but it's hard to tell where it's coming from because, well, it's a video. I don't think timing has anything to do with it, but because I cranked it without the distributor, I'm not certain. Point gap is set right. No backfiring. Seems it would run fine if the noise were fixed. Be gentle, guys. I'm only trying to learn! Not having much luck finding local guys that have time to spare. I wanted this car at my wedding, but I don't think that with the available time, I'll have it ready in 2 weeks. Time to pull out the 48 instead!

I've asked this before, but can't remember where. How/where is the speaker box for the radio installed on the 37? I think it's over the steering column. But where do the 3 hooks attach? If someone can post some pictures of their stock radio and how it's installed, that would be great! Thanks!

My 48 Dodge has the cowl vent and "weather door." Haven't found a replacement gasket for the weather door yet but fresh cowl gasket is in. I'm still getting leaks by the kick panels, but don't see where they're coming from. I suspect the windshield gasket, but would appreciate other input. Also can't seem to get the cowl vent to open very far. Linkage looks extended as far as it can, but makes no difference. The vent on my 37 opens twice as far. Never did get the vent removed for the gasket replacement, but I have 3 screws that won't budge and one I can't get back in!

How do you have the hoses routed without a 2-way valve?

Is the clock fuse called 1AG2? I tried finding some shorter fuses but they're still too long. If I had a part number, I'm that much more ahead.

I'm used to search functions being half assed on forums... Google usually works better. But it's nice to know that the information exists! I just got the repair manual, owners manual, and a Thompson repair and tune up manual. Of course I also have the 37 Plymouth manual and the 36-42 Plymouth manual, but that's a whole other story...