Car is back together but still won’t start!

[Don Coatney]

I don't recall ever using a torque wrench on shock absorber fasteners. I have always done it by feel and I don't recall ever having one come lose. If I recall the shock absorber studs have a shoulder so when you tighten the nut it is impossible to over squeeze the rubber mount as you are tightening the nut against the shoulder.

 

 

I also suggest you replace all the shocks as one operation and bleed all the brakes as another operation. That way you don't forget where you left off. Same as doing medical operations separately. You would not do a circumcision and a hemorrhoid removal at the same time. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

if single element bulbs/single wire sockets..then as I stated earlier...the outside lights are running/park if you will...the center light on the deck lid was the only brake light factory optioned..

[Dave72dt]

I'm seeing those torque specs as 4 different threaded sizes.  Check the mounting studs themselves for sizes, both ends of the studs.  Lowest torque spec would go to a 5/16, ,  next one may be a 3/8 fine thread,  next a 7'16 or 1/2,  next maybe a 1/2, 9/16 or 5/8.

[Frank Elder]

I don't recall ever using a torque wrench on shock absorber fasteners. I have always done it by feel and I don't recall ever having one come lose. If I recall the shock absorber studs have a shoulder so when you tighten the nut it is impossible to over squeeze the rubber mount as you are tightening the nut against the shoulder.

 

 

I also suggest you replace all the shocks as one operation and bleed all the brakes as another operation. That way you don't forget where you left off. Same as doing medical operations separately. You would not do a circumcision and a hemorrhoid removal at the same time. 

Ouch...then you wouldn't be able to go number 1 or 2 without hurtin'.

[perrymedik]

So for the electrical, I'll make the changes to make it correct as it should have been.  I'd bet someone in the past switched up the wiring to make the brake lights function more like modern vehicles.

 

Don Coatney: I had a good laugh at your analogy.  I certainly would not do the two procedures at the same time! LOL!

 

The new brake cylinder is in, so I'm off to install it!

Thanks!

Cory

[greg g]

Most people today are used to seeing a high mounted stop light if

I were doing the rear set up I would wire the fender lamps with dual element sockets so they would function as running lights and light up with the center stop bulb. This is a pretty simple change and well worth it in this day of seriel tail haters. The first thing to do is I'd and isolate the main feed wires where they enter the trunk up by where the rear roof and trunk body sheet metal come together, one should be for the running lights and liscence, and the other for stop. Once you know which is which, it is a simple matter the to connect to the proper fixtures. You may also want to re power your brake lamp switch to a direct source. To do this you disconnect the current feed and abandon it in place. Then you run a dedicated wire with an inline fuse (15 or 20 amp fuse) and connect the switch to the battery side post of the starter solenoid. This gives you brake light as long as there is power in your battery' keeps the brake lamp draw from going through your headlamp switch, and keeps your headlights from dimming when you need to keep you foot on the brakes.

[DonaldSmith]

You're talking of re-powering the brake switch.  Good.  At first speed-reading, I thought you were connecting the brake lights directly to a power source, which would have them always on. Oookay, I get it, I guess.

[greg g]

Yes I have suffered several 30 amp fuse failures at the head lamp switch,  when I held my brakes on on a hill or at a long stop light.  So I re powered the switch as described, no problems since.  Plus brighter brake lights. 

[perrymedik]

Ok. The rear lighting has now been reconfigured so that the outside tail lights and license plate light come one with the first and second turn of the head lamp switch, and the center red light is now activated by the brake peddle.  This is as factory as I can figure based on the guidance here and the wiring diagram in the Service Manual.

 

I am curious why they would design the front running lights to turn off when the head lights turn on.  But I wasn't there at the design table.  Come to think of it, my parents might not have been around either. LOL!

 

Greg G: Thank you for the info on how to reconfigure the brake lighting.  I like the idea!  I have a few other things on my "Must Do" list before I get to my "I'd like to do" list (which is extensive).

 

I'm hoping the weather clears tomorrow so I can take the car out and give the new Shocks and freshly adjusted and bleed Brakes a try to see how they are doing.  Heck, I may even blow another Brake cylinder if I'm lucky! LOL!

 

I do know that I need new weather seals. . . . . . for everything.  I know I have seen seals here and there individually, but I was wondering if anyone knows of a vender that is selling them as complete sets.  One shot, one purchase, all seals delivered at one time.  I washed the car a couple of days ago.  And while the wash and wax was no doubt good for the exterior of the car, the water intrusion into the passenger compartment was certainly not.

 

Thanks!

[TodFitch]

. . . I am curious why they would design the front running lights to turn off when the head lights turn on.  But I wasn't there at the design table.  Come to think of it, my parents might not have been around either. LOL! . . .

Pretty standard for all the cars I have driven that were built before maybe 1968.

 

Maybe because they were called "parking lights" rather than "running lights" with the intent that they could mark the location of a parked car.

[Ulu]

Exactly: it's to make you visible while parked along a road at night; and in several states it's quite illegal to drive with your parking lights on.

[greg g]

C Lester's has weather strips and other glass to body figments. Far as

I can tell its same quality as the other higher priced supplier.

[Dodgeb4ya]

This heated and bent U-bolt set up is kinda... well not likely to stay tight for long and maybe dangerous..

JMO  

[Don Coatney]

Dodgeb4ya, on 14 Jan 2015 - 11:06 PM, said:

This heated and bent U-bolt set up is kinda... well not likely to stay tight for long and maybe dangerous..

JMO  

Over 40,000 miles to date with no issues. But you are correct I should rectify that some day.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I would think that the U bolts as tightened would try to straighten the bend out and loosen up Don. But ... I thought it was the OP's picture and recently done.

You did them a long time ago and I assume the axle has never  started clicking or cracking upon acceleration so............

Never mind!!

[soth122003]

I thought that the front parking lights off when the headlights were on was a power conservation thing. Since the cars were 6v systems and powered by the genny, at night it would reduce the power draw with them off, especially at a stop light or stop and go traffic.

 

Joe

[MarcDeSoto]

So did you ever get this thing started???  And what oil are you using?

Edited January 15, 2015 by MarcDeSoto

[Dave72dt]

C Lester's has weather strips and other glass to body figments. Far as

I can tell its same quality as the other higher priced supplier.

Sometimes yes, sometimes no.  If you can, check the profiles of the weather stripping offered against the originals.  I was sent a generic trunk seal for my last OT project and it wouldn't let the trunk lid close properly.  Ordered from a different company. It had the correct profile, installed easy and lid closed.  I wasn't too proud of Clester's rear window rubber for that same car either. It's not always about the money.   I don't mind saving it when I can but I'd rather spend it on parts that fit..

[TodFitch]

I thought that the front parking lights off when the headlights were on was a power conservation thing. Since the cars were 6v systems and powered by the genny, at night it would reduce the power draw with them off, especially at a stop light or stop and go traffic.

 

Joe

That wouldn't explain the '63 Plymouth I learned to drive on or the '61 Ford my Dad commuted to work in. Both had parking lights that worked that same way. The Ford might have had a generator still (I know it had vacuum wipers) but the Plymouth definitely had an alternator and I don't recall it ever having an issue with charging.

[Dave72dt]

Ford changed over to alts in  '65 I believe

[Young Ed]

Ford changed over to alts in  '65 I believe

Yes I believe you are right. The early 65(64 1/2 ) mustangs were generators and the later ones had an alternator.

[greg g]

I believe it was 68-69 when front park lamps went to amber and remained on with headlamps to enhance visibility. If I remember correctly this was also when amber in front and red at rear side marker lights were introduced. So circuits were arranged that all marker lamps were illuminated whether park or drive lights were selected.

[perrymedik]

Installed the new Fuel sending unit and now the fuel gauge works just fine.

 

Then took the car out for a leisurely stroll.  Put about 20 miles or so on it.  Made a small carb adjustment and putted around happily.  I was perfectly content to putt around at 30-35 mph. It felt so fast! LOL! No, it was very relaxing.

 

Acceleration was smooth, and I did run it up to 50 mph for just a brief moment and then back down just to see how it would do and it performed perfectly!!  Had a smile on my face the whole time and got lot's of thumbs ups from other on the road and on the side of the road.

 

The braking is much improved after installing the new rear cylinder, re-bleeding the system, and making some minor adjustments to the pad distance from the drums.  I may have had them pulled in a bit too far.

 

Better ride too with the new shocks.  

 

There is a noticeable amount of play in the steering wheel, not so much to make me drift all over the road, but enough that if I look down at the instrument cluster too long I find myself encroaching one side of the lane or another.  Going to look into that and see if there are any adjustments to be made to tighten it up.  If not, its not bad enough to warrant changing out the gear box, steering linkage, kingpin or what ever else is involved.  Haven't read the manual on that part yet.  Just mussing out loud.

 

I also think I may need to make a minor adjustment to the Clutch.  Occasionally when at a stop, when I shift into First from neutral I will get a light grind, but never when shifting up through the gears, or down shifting to a stop.  Probably something minor.

 

I also ran with the headlights and running lights on the majority of the time to see how the alternator was performing.  It never dropped to the discharge side and stayed right around the 0 mark between Charge and Discharge.  When I got home I took a walk around and all the lights were still bright.  Important since I plan on driving it to a friends house tomorrow night and I would hate to have the lights drain out the battery if the Alternator wasn't operating correctly.

 

And finally (and it's petty I know), the radio doesn't work.  Not that there are a huge selection of AM channels to choose from, but a little background noise would be nice in the future.  I checked to make sure that the antenna was plugged in, and verified that the plug into the side of the radio was getting power.  So now it's a matter of what is wrong with the guts of the radio.  As is the custom of the Service Manual - it did not have anything enlightening to say.  There was an intriguing mention of a Distributor Suppressor, but that's in.  No mention of where it is, or what it does.

 

The symptoms of the radio are as follows.  Turn the switch on and all the way up, scroll slowly left and right through the bandwidths, and receive total silence. Not even static.

 

Again, it's petty, but its on the list of things to do.  Rather, the list of things I'd "Like to do".  Drivability and safety first.  Fun stuff later.

 

I was grinning ear to ear, that's for sure.  I can envision the finished product in my mind.  Still much work to be done though.

 

The journey continues. . . . .

 

Cory

 

Edited January 16, 2015 by perrymedik

[1950 Special Deluxe]

The 1st drive is very exciting.

Congratulations.

[greg g]

For your transmission grinding shifting into low. Try selecting second momentarily. Then sift to low. If it does not grind it confirms the clutch is not completely releasing. There is not enough friction to move the car, but enough to spin the input shaft in neutral. Engaging second allows the synchronizer to stop the input shaft from spinning, allowing a grind free shift to first.

You will want to adjust the linkage to the throw out fork to be longer than it currently is.

Edited January 16, 2015 by greg g