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soth122003

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Everything posted by soth122003

  1. I thought my 48 didn't have a drain plug either. until I used a wire brush and a pick. Brushed the lower area of the diff and found the drain plug. Used the pick to clean out the hole, which was a 7/16" square hole. They used to have square hole plug wrenches (like an allen wrench set) ranging from 1/4" to 1/2" SAE. I used a dremel on my plug and sized it to 1/2" so I can use the 1'2" ratchet on it. Here's a link for the plug sets. https://www.amazon.com/CASOMAN-Pieces-2-Inch-Socket-Female/dp/B09F64XLCW/ref=pd_scr_dp_alt2_d_d_sccl_3_7/143-9413250-4066531?pd_rd_w=027Zs&content-id=amzn1.sym.d27da8b4-737d-43c7-86c4-e59a1ff3f7e1&pf_rd_p=d27da8b4-737d-43c7-86c4-e59a1ff3f7e1&pf_rd_r=M9XQVBZ16F8HBMZVF3EP&pd_rd_wg=ttoqt&pd_rd_r=48123a8d-3e4f-4d5f-8e40-6d0bfc66848a&pd_rd_i=B09F64XLCW&psc=1 Joe Lee
  2. I'd like to send a loud shout out to Joecoozie!!! He had a set of tracks he let me have for a fair price. I tried French lake, Ebay, AB's and a few other places. If not for Joe, I'd be fabbing an ugly makeshift set of feet. I installed the tracks and put on the new seat covers and I must say I'm impressed. The light neoprene backing and skirt material were pretty good and the fit was pretty nice as well. The actual seat and back material was nice and thick and should provide years of use. The last pic is what the seats looked like. They were the original upholstry, I think. I still need to do a little stretching and tucking to even out the material, but so far I'm pretty pleased with the way this turned out. Joe Lee
  3. joecoozie, Thanks for the PM. I repaired the floor pan with rusty metal primer with ospor and a patch with sealant under it to keep the water out.. I think it came out pretty well. The pan has a lot of good metal and the only light spots is where the rust is. I should probably replace the MC res access plate but that is easy to do later. Joe Lee
  4. Thanks for the suggestion Tired. Believe it or not the PO who had the car before work on the floor pans. They were rusted but he cleaned them up made some OK repairs and the glassed over the pan in those areas. The pans are in decent shape and the mount areas are good. More than likely I'll fab up some type of strut to repair the mounting feet. I'm also going to check with French Lake on Monday and maybe I'll get lucky. Joe Lee
  5. Thanks Sniper. That gives me a starting nomenclature to work with. I tried seat mounts on Flea Bay and all I got were seat belts and such. Will French Lake pull the parts and send them to you? Being in Florida means a long drive for parts if they don't. LOL I'll check with them n Monday. They are, but they are also hard riveted to the bottom parts which bolt to the floor. I have seen a set of the floor mounts on Amazon from JEGS for about $20 each. They have no drilled mounting holes to mount to the floor, so you drill them to fit. They look a little flimsy though. The reason they got so bad is the seat frame base covers the mount points so you can't really see them until you take the frame and seat back section out. I give this post a few more days to bear fruit. I'm hoping some one modded their seats to buckets and kept the old tracks. Joe Lee
  6. Today was awesome. Full sun and nice temps. I was gonna fix my floor pan, has a few rust holes I noticed last week. I was also gonna put my new seat covers on till I found this. I knew the bolt on the left front seat mount broke, but I didn't think the whole foot was gone. Also to add insult to injury the rear foot mount was rusted gone on the right mount. Saving Grace...no accidents where the seats would get me as well as the steering wheel. This is one of the downsides of living in Florida, under carpet will hold moisture if it gets wet. I just didn't think it was this bad. No the problem. Finding replacements. Check AB and Flea Bay, no dice. If any one has a clue where I might find these please let me know. Joe Lee
  7. librado65, I kinda feel your pain. I have COPD and a bad hip, which makes working heavier projects daunting. I am going to rewire my car, but I don't have the energy or flexabilty to do it myself. Trying to find a good shop to do it is next to impossible. Same with upholstry and other things that are easy (20 years ago) but time consuming. Since the electrics and mechanics are so easy on these old cars, and I know how to do them but no longer have the energy, I am thinking to hire an apprentice. Some one who can be my hands and body to work under my direction. They don't have to be skilled but should have a mechanical aptitude. The pay can be hourly or per job. Like your ring job maybe $200.00 for about 4-5 hours worth of work. or $20 an hour to rewire under the dash. A good source might be a friend who has a kid who needs a couple of bucks. Maybe a young mechanic at a shop who wants to make a few dollars on the side (Jiffy lube does not pay that well after all). This thought just hit me, a Trade school has kids that pay to be there. Might be a good source for help. They also might do jobs like ring and valves to teach the students. My dad took wielding a long time ago to use his GI bill. and the school did jobs for people to help train and make money for the school. The rate was parts plus 20% for the jobs they did. Just some ideas I'm kicking around while thinking outside the box. Maybe this will help maybe not. Just something to think about. Joe Lee
  8. Saw this on flea bay. Read the bottom of the box. https://www.ebay.com/itm/181623623812?itmmeta=01HQ39QSCFSF7ZN93JFG9SB9F4&hash=item2a499c9084:g:S5IAAOSwc0FUmu5P&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8GsRPMDBPPSNIOFZy5yNNj2AFsto0mi1y1OrYiwvocLH18ViNKRQjfvrtfeHOC4zkAy5yWho6pCZu7OxFE%2FlgL9%2BxjjfELRZWeOK%2FvWxHVvTj8zM55%2BAA43LY9HOACnzDwvMiwtpkdgt8bfN6zRfVKY8JmD0XBuvoaAtPcjV6FCZm5vArHNPGPxcmoeV9tW0iT2Yblwu1idc%2BcFrfDI75jWMLznNFO3A2f%2ByNyNGRy8LgreSqYxaHmWULpRImkBHmNuixUa0eSssQhbNzXQMXXj8l5sHWHUv194Vl0%2BNFvDQPt%2FXe3AVf6ADgfGUUazgew%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMrJbf6bhj Joe Lee
  9. Welcome to the forum. I see your about 4 hours from me. Since your familiar with upholstery, I need a new headliner and my seats redone. LOL Though for advice, opinions and a little ribbing you've come to the right place. Fine bunch of geezers hear with lots of experience. Hope to see the pics soon. Joe Lee
  10. Actually a little adjustment goes a long way. Because your adjusting it at the start or source of the needle movement, the result would be a more larger swing at the top of the needle. If say you adjust it .005" at the bottom it might result on a 1/8" at the top. I did that on an old gage once and had to bend it back after the first try as the needle move to far. Joe Lee
  11. How? A single bend to the float rod? When I installed my new tank unit, I had to do a double bend on the arm so the float would not reach higher than the body of the sending unit. Bend the arm down near the sender, then move down about 3 inches and bend the float up till it's just below level with the sender This gives the arm full swing (basically shortening the arm to match the tank) showing me the full reading when the tank is full. With just a single bend the tank would only read about 1/2 tank when full and show an empty tank with about 1/2 a tank of fuel left. With the double bend done, I had to measure the float drop and make sure it was about 7 and 1/2 inches to show an empty tank with enough fuel left in it to get to a gas station. It's not perfect, but it shows full when full and has about an 1/8 of a tank when it shows empty. When you hold the sender in your hand, it is not properly grounded and will not read correctly according to the trouble shooting guide. This is assuming you have the thermostatic fuel gage system. (2 Wire) read the manual section on instrument gages and it will explain it. Hope this helps. Joe Lee
  12. Easy check to see if the tranny mounts sagged. Jack up the tranny/bell housing about 1 inch and try to shift. If it shifts smooth your mounts have compressed/sagged. Linkage doesn't usually go out of adjustment unless you did some work on the clutch or tranny. The mounts however get compressed over time. Joe Lee
  13. That's pretty much it. Except the 2 gallons of vinegar is cheaper and just as effective as the over the counter stuff. The big plus with this is you don't have to pull or disassemble the engine. Also like said in the previous, it dissolves the crud into a solution that drains out with the water, and with these old iron engines, it won't hurt the iron or the gaskets with this dilution rate. Helpful hint, drain the rad and block, then add the vinegar first, wait about 5 minutes then add the water to top it off. this lets the vinegar work on the rad from the top down and the block from the bottom up, where the crud likes to settle. When I first did the cleaning of the rad when I first got the car I used CLR and that got all the crud out of the rad, then used vinegar for the engine to flush the crud out. (and there was a lot of it). The antifreeze contains a rust inhibitor which helps prevent the rust, but the vinegar flush will dissolve the calcium and lime and rust into a slurry that drains well and won't clog up in different part of the engine. Joe Lee
  14. Hey Ivan, While I think your idea has merit after a proper flush is done, I also think that most of the debris in an engine is stationary. What i mean by that is the rust, calcium and lime deposits tend to stay stuck to the inside iron and brass walls of the engine and radiator. A water flush will move the floating debris out of the engine and radiator, but it will not remove the crud stuck to the walls. What I do is go to the dollar store and buy 2 gallons of vinegar and fill my cooling system with 1 gallon of water and 2 gallons of vinegar and run the engine for about an hour or so or I drive it for a few days to let the vinegar solution dissolve the calcium, lime and rust into the mix and then drain and flush the cooling system with water. When I drain the engine after this I flush the water/vinegar solution with clean water running the engine between flushes until it warms up. The first draining comes out like rusty brown water till about the 2nd rinse and by the 3rd it is clear. I do this about every 2 years because I don't usually use anti freeze/coolant in my engine. When the cold snaps come I usually drain my cooling system and then refill after the cold snap is done. My engine usually runs about 165 on the gage year round here in Florida. This has worked for me for over the 13 plus years I've owned my car. Hope this helps. Joe Lee
  15. Hey Tired Iron, the carpet looks great. Couple of questions though. Is the Master cylinder under the floor and does your car have the removable floor pan? If yes to the MC did you make any allowances for ease of service to it? Same with the floor pan? Joe Lee
  16. Hey Roofus, Up at the top of the page in the header bar section, you should see a tab called technical. Right hand side right under the search bar. Click on this and then click on the brakes tab. It has a rundown and explanation of the Lockheed brake system that is pretty in-depth. Should be a big help for you. If you don't change the brake lines... The last step BEFORE the road test is the panic stop. If everything is done and your ready for the road, DO THIS CHECK. Sit in the car and STOMP the bakes like a kid has just run out in front of you and your at 30 MPH. This is to check that the old brake lines will hold the pressure you put on them in an emergency. When I first got my car, I bleed the brakes, all was good and then I did the panic stop check. My front brake line blew out under the radiator. The splint in the line was over an inch long. The line had corroded from the inside. The outside looked fine, but i see the corrosion on the inside of the line. If in doubt, CHANGE the lines. Joe Lee
  17. Here you go Bingster. It's close by, relativly speaking. https://www.ebay.com/itm/186222866047?hash=item2b5bbf6e7f%3Ag%3AkRwAAOSwaRRlKzn-&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwJRUpOdoBUVEBc093PwS0zlJD5ZGNc8A6kAPvXVSD5KUDkU47avpn0KCpGWOFenvDI2a2lQtP3iimiv9SwpFPKfTHnMFGNvESFXNtyFNL6SuzqFu6WHa7ForTZzfBUM6ucYb07dbwr5cJtPWG%2Fm%2BWUc3Zi2fLgoE5ZsB3ZIsL6do7mc1N8yQScQsBI27fjptbNT%2BnJthqN2XzyULwA%2F36wujYDu8rT3pv2K50wO%2BhIONgikwW6RSnyUop45OebPyPg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-qs8d2lYw&LH_ItemCondition=3000|1000|2500 Joe Lee
  18. Anti freeze does have kinda a sweet smell. Gas smells like burnt dinosaur LOL Actually gas has a sharp tangy smell. Run your car rich and you can smell it. Pull the choke out a bit and set fast idle at about 1500 rpm. Oil has a deeper more pungent smell. Oily rags can give off that same odor sometimes. Joe Lee
  19. I think your confusion comes from the misunderstanding that this type of oil filter is not a full flow oil filtration system. Oil is not continuously going through the filter. It only goes through the filter when the oil pressure is greater than the resistance of the spring in the oil bypass valve. The shop manual is great on how to do things, but sucks on explaining the theory behind how it works. Originally these cars did not have an oil filter. It was a dealer option. The oil change interval was 2500-3000 miles (city). In dirt or gravel environments (rural) it was more often, probably 1000-1500 miles. These cars had a crankcase ventilation system that took air in at the oil filler cap and vented it through the downdraft tube at the back of the engine. This was to keep water and water vapor out of the oil. However it did not address the dirt and particulate in the oil. Hence the oil changes at shorter than todays interval with the sealed crankcase. On a warm engine the bypass oil filter only worked when the oil pressure was at higher at higher engine RPMs and the bypass valve was open. At low Rpms your oil pressure goes down and the bypass valve would close and the oil did not travel through the filter. This ties into the crankcase vent system which did not work at low speeds as it needed higher speeds to create a vacuum by having air rush past the down draft tube to create said vacuum. At 30-45 psi it is not a problem to force oil through that small hole. I think at the bottom of the riser pipe are couple more holes as well. As long as the holes are between the top and bottom of the oil filter the oil is forced to go through the filter. Since it is not a full flow system it does not need a lot of holes to return oil to the crankcase. That's also why when the manual calls for 5 quarts of oil, it's more like 5 1/2 with the oil filter because the oil in the filter does not drain back into the crank with the engine off even if the filter sits higher than the crankcase. On todays cars the oil always flows through the oil filter. Since it is a sealed system, dirt and debris can't be sucked in the crankcase. The longer interval for changes is for burnt oil and engine wear particulate to be changed out with new oil and a filter. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Hope this helps. Joe Lee
  20. Now you really remind me of my dad. My mom passed in 2017 and my Dad has only had his cat for constant company since. He will be 89 in March and hasn't been able to swing wrenches for the past 20 years. If not for that cat, I think my dad would have wasted away after a year or two. He is pretty healthy and that cat is the only thing keeping him going. Joe Lee
  21. For most people the term "daily driver" means the car you drive every day to take care of errands, work or just the date drive with the spouse. For long distance trips, You want a dependable car that won't break down on the trip. This could be the vintage classic or the newer car. It all depends on you definition of reliable. Also the drivers age plays a lot into this consideration. At 20-late 30's, you are basically bullet proof and break downs are part of the adventure. At 40-50's the risk reward comes more into play. The old car might break down and do I want to risk it? At 60+ you think about yesteryear versus reality. I would love to do this but... If the car breaks down can I fix it on the side of the road, cause there are no known shops that wiil/can work on these old cars. I see Rich just posted a reply with some I the things I was going to add as well, so I'll Just say the daily driver is up to what you want to do with the car. I just bought my wife a 2024 Toyota. I hate the car but my wife loves it. The important thing is I bought the car for my wife and not me. For me it's too small (I'm 6'7 and my wife is 5'1) It has all the crap I hate in a car, collision avoidance, lane departure, and lots of other things that it will try and drive itself instead of me driving it. It is a reliable car and has a warranty that is good nation wide and can be fixed nation wide. My next car for myself will be a 40's era Mopar. It is uncomplicated and fun to drive, but it will have to be in great condition as I can't really do the heavy fixing due to health issues and older age. (It hurts to get up from the ground and I can't bend like I used to) Another thing is that a restored classic is about as expensive and the cheapest new car. With all this said, Buy a dependable car for the wife (even though she can't drive, you will want a car for her needs that will be your definition of dependable) and then get your car for yourself and have fun making memories with your wife. My dad was in you shoes for a few years before my mom passed at 87 from dementia. Now he has the memories from being with her doing the things they enjoyed while she could. Joe Lee
  22. They make the curved glass for the 40-48 back glass. Might give them a call and ask. They also make the curved windshields for the later models Plymouths. Joe Lee
  23. Try this site. Especially if you need all the glass. https://www.vendio.com/stores/bobsclassicautoglass/category/page=5/__http_host=www.vendio.com/catId=4144656 Joe Lee
  24. You remind me of the Mr. Magoo movie with Leislie Nielson, when his nephew Waldo fixed Magoo's car by installing a prescription windshield so Magoo could see out because he wouldn't wear his glasses. I believe the car was a 40's model because the windshield was a flat glass 2 piece, if I remember right. The movie was hilarious and Nielson did a fantastic job as Magoo even down to the Jim Baccus voice.
  25. Can't really think of any drop in replacements. You might want to take a chance on a used one. Unlike the radiators in our cars the neater core (to the best of my knowledge) isn't honey combed like the rads. So even if a used one leaks, it can be a simple fix at a radiator shop. Joe Lee
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