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soth122003

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soth122003 last won the day on February 15 2015

soth122003 had the most liked content!

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About soth122003

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor
  • Birthday 06/17/1960

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    soth122003@yahoo.com
  • Biography
    Retired Air Force crew chief
  • Occupation
    Helicoptefr mechanic

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Niceville, Florida
  • Interests
    camping, sight seeing, scuba
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe

Converted

  • Location
    Niceville, Fl
  • Interests
    camping

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  1. Not sure about the bleed hole on the pump. What I would think would happen is this, As the eng temp heats up when the eng is shut off the fuel in the float bowl will expand and feed into the carb throat thru the idle circuit. As the eng cools down, the fuel left in the bowl will condense with the cooler temp and the float level will drop a bit opening the needle and the pressure will bleed off that way. If there is a bleeder hole in the pump the pressure will drop at that point. Either way, remember the fuel pressure is only about 5 psi and will not really hurt anything. Joe Lee
  2. Hey Rich you beat be me by about 5 minutes. I was eating brunch. Joe Lee
  3. Hey bud, It is almost impossible to install the fuel pump incorrectly. It is either right side up (correct) or upside down (incorrect). Glass bowl or wide base points down. Couple of questions, 1. Are you sure you have the right fuel pump? Does it look like your old one? Is the pump arm the same as the old one? 2. You say you have no pressure or vacuum from the pump. Where are checking for this? At the pump or from the lines connected to the pump? There are usually 3 things that describe your problem. Wrong pump. Cracked or obstructed fuel line in the system. Or you are out of gas. Make sure you have the right pump. The same pump can have different pump arm configurations depending on the model of the car. Also you could have a bad brand new pump. Seen it before though not often. Check the pump by hand by working the lever arm. You should hear it sucking and weezing. ( unless you're an old geezer like me then it might be you) Check the rubber hose that connects the pump the the fuel line from the tank. could be collapsed or rotted either blocking fuel or sucking air. Check the line to the tank by blowing air thru it to clear any obstructions and listen for bubbling in the tank. Also do a visual inspection of the line to check for damage and rusted areas. Replace if any bad spots are found. If it is bad in one spot then there are others you can't see. Check the fuel level in the tank. You might be out. Check those and if it still persists check the fuel cap and make sure it is a vented cap. Joe Lee
  4. Hey Keith, It's a beautiful car. 5 will get you 10 that you bought it and are just to tired and excited to post right now. If you got it, what I look forward to are the you tube vids you can make with this car. Joe Lee
  5. I'm kind of in agreement with Plymouthy on this one. If the head bolt installation is not know to you, i.e. are they original, did the P.O. install them right and retorque, were they treated with a sealer before install, then I would use a breaker bar to loosen. If the bolts are known to you i.e. you installed them 5 years ago properly, they were new on the rebuild and so on then I might use the impact to remove them. Joe Lee
  6. Something I noticed when going thru the same problems, was that the digital multimeter is so fast it can pick up all the changes in the voltage being carried by the genny the VR and battery charging system that it will fluxuate very fast and will seem to give very erratic readings. I had an old analog multi meter and when i started using that instead, I was able to get stable readings and trouble shooting went very smooth from there on out. (just curious because do not know ... is there a way to remove wiring from genny and test it with multi meter with engine running ... isolate the genny from the wiring & car?) Just disconnect the genny wiring and start the car. With it running check the voltage output at different RPMs. The genny's main job is to supply power to run electrical systems and charge the battery. with it disconnected it will provide power, but it will have nowhere to go until the wiring is re-connected. Joe Lee
  7. Where did you get the bushings from? Mine suck air something fierce and I need to fix it. Joe Lee
  8. I bought one of those 36 led solar security lights from Harbor freight and used for about 2 years. The light was in the elements and went bad from moisture getting inside. The solar panel for it was still good and it puts out about 7 volts. Not sure how many amps it puts out but it is low, maybe 1 amp at best. It had a long cord and I put a couple of alligator clips on it and hooked them to the battery in the car. Used some RTV and glued magnets to the panel. Ran the cables thru the car and leave the panel laying on the back floorboard. When I finish driving I put the panel on the roof and it trickle charges the battery just fine. Joe Lee
  9. Thanks Sniper. I forgot all about vinegar. I only used the CLR because I didn't even think of or remember about vinegar. I'll edit my post. What do you guys think of using vinegar as full system flush for an original system? Brass rad, iron engine and heads. 2 gallons vinegar and 1 gallon of water, run for 10 to 20 minutes rest for 10 and run again then drain and flush. Joe Lee
  10. Sorry guys. i meant this action for the original radiators only. Joe Lee
  11. Just read the thermostat section in the repair manual. The 180 t stat starts to open at 180 and is fully open at 195-200. So your system maybe working right. The 180 t stat was mainly for very cold climates to help the hot water type heaters in the winter. Joe Lee
  12. If your original rad is in fairly good shape, this is how I did mine on the recommendation of an old timer. 1. Plug the rad and fill with a dawn dish detergent and water solution and let soak for a day or two. Flush with warm water and perform the flow check. If good then install and test. If not, you can try step 2. If there is evidence of heavy calcium or lime deposits I would try CLR. If not use vinegar. This one cleaned mine out great. Since CLR is great for the lime and calcium build up from hard water and is fairly mild. DO NOT use anything stronger than CLR (like muratic acid) as it will eat the metal of the rad. 2. Plug the rad and fill with 1 gallon of CLR or vinegar (a buck a quart CLR or a buck a half gallon of vinegar at the Dollar General) and top off with water. Lay the rad face down for 15 minutes. Flip over face up for 15 minutes. Stand in the upright position for 15 min. Stand on left side for 15 minutes. stand upside down for 15 min. Stand on right side for 15 min. Drain and flush a few times with warm water. Perform flow check and install and test. If after any of these tests the rad leaks, a good rad shop should be able to solder the leaks, or you can do it yourself if you feel comfortable with doing so. I believe it was after 1954 they went to pressurized systems, at least on the Plymouths anyway. Anywho that is my 2 cents worth. Take as a suggestion and not gospel. It worked for me. Joe Lee
  13. You said you put in an aluminum radiator. What kind did you put in? Reason I ask is that the flow rate thru the rad might be to fast. (IMHO) Thus not allowing the coolant to bleed off the heat properly. Since I live in Florida, my car has a stock rad, straight water and runs at 170 all day long. Joe Lee
  14. Check the generator. Had the same problem one time and it was both the Voltage Regulator and the Generator. The VR was shot and the genny had a bad armature. Since you said you replaced the VR check the genny for voltage output and amperage. Motors manual and your shop manual will tell you how to check your genny. Joe Lee
  15. Plymouth manual 46-54, states use short fiber grease 1/2 ounce using a low pressure grease gun. every 2 years or 20,000 miles. pg 311 lube and maintenance. Joe Lee
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