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soth122003 last won the day on February 15 2015

soth122003 had the most liked content!


About soth122003

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 06/17/1960

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
  • Biography
    Retired Air Force crew chief
  • Occupation
    Helicoptefr mechanic

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Niceville, Florida
  • Interests
    camping, sight seeing, scuba
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe


  • Location
    Niceville, Fl
  • Interests

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1,025 profile views
  1. soth122003


    DJK, This may or may not help. My genny had a bad armature. I bought another off ebay. Same kind but the suffix number was different (old one GDZ-4801a, new one GDZ-4801b I think). Got it and the pulley was different so swapped with mine. Installed in the car and the alignment was off. My old one had the pulley at the 10:00 position to install belt and 12:00 to tighten and run (view from the front to back). The new one was at like the 8:00 position to install and 10:00 to tighten so the genny was against the block. The solution I used was to use the end caps from the old genny and the new armature and body from the new genny. If you look on the body of the genny where the end caps go on there is a guide pin for the end cap alignment and guide hole in the end caps. I guess this is for different installs depending on where the genny mounts on different vehicles. Anywho, hope this helps. Joe Lee
  2. You can check out Rock Auto's website and see the kinda fuel pump(s) that will fit your car. They are pretty good about that, Joe Lee
  3. I've had mine for over 10 years. 4 of those years the tool was used when I work for a Motorcycle and atv shop. Never had a problem with the Harbor Freight tools. Joe Lee
  4. Hey Bingster, Go grab one from Harbor Freight for about 25 bucks. Or the local auto parts store will usually do a loan a tool program. Joe Lee
  5. Running tubeless steel belted radials on my 48 Special Deluxe with original rims. Cleaned, wire wheeled and painted my rims.No leaks or problems for the past 6 years Joe Lee
  6. You're probably right Sam. Think about the market for gas caps. More common but same principle. Lost in service related work. How many times have you set a tool down and then couldn't find it for hours. LOL Joe Lee
  7. Think you're giving this generation too much credit Frank. Most kids can't change a tire now a days. That aside, You're doing a great job Nick. When your done with yours I'll send mine up for you to restore. Joe Lee
  8. I don't know about the 40 model, but that is the one on my 48 P-15 special deluxe.(third pic) Joe Lee
  9. I've read this whole thread again. From your first entry you said you have a 3 core aluminum radiator. Do you still have the original radiator for your car? If it is in decent condition you might give it a try. Reason being if you aluminum radiator flow rate is to fast your water won't stay in long enough to cool down properly before going back into the engine. How fast did your radiator drain when the hose came off? lightning quick or was it steady at about 10-20 seconds for the drain? If the radiator is good then I would say pull the water pump, t stat housing and freeze plugs and flush the living snot out of the engine. If you have no leaks of water to oil or oil to water, you have a flow problem. Either to fast or to slow. Joe Lee
  10. Merry Christmas All. Hope you have/had a good one. Joe Lee
  11. Hey Tom, I quit buying my 6v batteries from the auto stores because I found they sit on the shelf for quite a while. last time I tried to buy one the date was over a year old. I found that Tractor Supply has a good turn over and the CA was 875 but the CCA is 700. They last about 5 years or so. My car sits outside all the time. (keep the Harley in garage). What I did was I had an old 36 LED solar powered security light from Harbor Freight. The light went bad from exposure but the solar panel was still good. Put a meter on it and it puts out 7-8 volts (maybe 1/2 an amp or so) dc so I put a couple of alligator clips on it and hooked it to the battery and ran the very long wire down the hood and into the door and let the panel sit on the back floorboard while driving. When I stop for the day or even a few hours I sit it on the roof and trickle charge the battery. I used some glue and glued four little magnets onto the base so it doesn't go any where. With such low amps I'm not afraid of over charging the battery, so I leave sit on the roof for days at a time when I'm not driving it. Been working good for over 3 years now. Joe Lee
  12. The booster your describing sounds like one of those 12v li-ion jumpers. Those need a minimum voltage to work, I believe at least 10v. Even when a 12v batt is dead it will usually read 10-12v on a meter. It just won't have the current to start a car. With a 6v pos ground system, I would say it won't work, but I could be wrong. The best way to jump your car is an older jump pack or a battery (6 or 12 volt) and connect pos to pos and neg to the starter (either at the starter or at the cable connected to the starter solenoid). A jump pack with the on-off switch on it works great and they are about 40-60 bucks at Harbor Freight. Joe Lee
  13. Hey nick, As far as a new rad, I remember something about a flow rate, but I can't remember the rate for our rads. As far as your original, I would leak check it now and see if it holds water. Just plug the ports fill it up and see if it holds water for a day or two. When you let the water out (assuming it does not leak) check the flow rate by using the manual to check for a clogged radiator (page 75 para, 4 fig 19 in the Plymouth manual). Then inspect for scale and limestone and rust in the rad. If it has some this is the cleaning method I used. I used about a gallon of CLR and a gallon of hot water and let the rad soak for about 45 min to an hour, rotating the rad from the front to the back then top then bottom and then side to side. Got a lot of crud out of the rad. Flushed it out and then used dawn dish washing soap and water (recommended by the rad shop) and soaked it for a couple of days. Temp runs at 175 degrees now and it only cost me about 5 bucks for the stuff from dollar tree. It's been working fine now for over 6 years since I did that. Remember these old cars use a non-pressure cooling system so no pressure on the rad or hoses. Joe Lee
  14. Hey Nick, Thought I'd chime in about the spare parts issue. Both sides are good reasons to have parts or AAA (actually both). Here is the thing about my spare parts, They are not usually for local driving. Fast forward a few years and you want to go to an event or show that might be a couple of hundred miles or further away That's when the spare parts really come in handy, because most auto shops you'll find on the road trip won't have a clue about how to work on your car or have the parts in stock. About the only real spare parts I would carry besides a small tool set would be Water, oil, An assembled breaker plate for the Dizzy (mine has gone out twice in 6 years and 5 minutes to change) and a voltage regulator (once in six years). Of course bulbs and fuses as well. These hardly take up any space at all and are just insurance for a trip. Any other problems are usually bigger and take a bit of time to solve. As far as electric fuel pump, put one in and wire it to a 3 way switch. Off in the middle, left for momentary to prime for vapor lock or boiled away fuel on hot days and right to engage full time for a fuel pump failure just to get home. Your car your choice. We are here to offer advice and help which you can take or leave as you please. Joe Lee
  15. My condolences to the Coatney family. Don was a wealth of information and wit. I am saddened to hear of his passing and he will be sorely missed on the site as well as in life. Rest in Peace Don. Joe Lee
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